Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: High Speed Vibration Come From The Rear
Jan 24, 2013
I had this item of concern as a response to another thread but I thought I'd open up a new thread and see if I could get any more attention.
I bought a used GLS and upon initial drives I have noticed a high speed vibration that seems to come from the rear (I don't feel any in the steering). In the colder weather recently I've noticed a pronounced vibration at a lower speed (just before shift points). between 2nd and 3rd. This seems to be worse with short drives or in morning.
Vibration seems to be worse just after a tighter right turns or even some left turns. I notice the most vibration right around 25mph. I also get it with moderate acceleration into a certain torque range. Like driving at 45 and accelerating up to 60. What is going on? It seems like it is linked to acceleration (torque) and possible pressure from turns. CV joint / axle? Wheel bearing? It seems like a tire would be worse as speed increased and more consistent.
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Purchased a 2009 CPO from my local Lexus dealer 4 months ago. Had vibration in seat when driving at highway speed. Have had it in 5 times to be fixed. 4 times for road force balancing, fixing any imperfection in each wheel, etc with no success. Drove with GM this week and he agreed with the vibration and they put 4 new tires on (Michelin Pilot) - I paid for 2, they paid for 2. They said it fixed it. Drove it home (20 miles on highway) - did not work at all - still vibration in seat (rear end). Have put car in neutral at highway speed (drive shaft vibration?) but did not make a difference.
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My car santa fe 2009/ 4WD / 2,7 / around 70,000 kms. Around a week ago, I noticed some vibration, that I can feel it mainly on the gas pedal. I can assume that the vibration came from the front of the car and just at low speed, like below the 40km/h. Also I feel that when took my foot of the gas, the vibration gone.
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Our FWD Santa Fe Limited had a very noticeable vibration that started around 60mph. Oddly, the vibration will sometimes come and go while cruising at a constant speed on the highway. We went about 30k miles before we had time to get it into the shop.
I asked them to rotate and balance the tires and the vibration was noticeably reduced...initially. Now it's back!
The car has ~65k miles. All 4 Kumho tires match and I believe are original from the factory. I have kept all tires inflated properly.
Our car has the optional 18" wheels. Is it common for these to bend? What else could be the cause here?
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Ever since passing on an opportunity to trade in our 07 Santa fe for something new, and deciding to keep this car until the end, we have come across a few electrical issues.
The highest speed setting on the windshield wipers have stopped working. The wipers just freeze. The drivers door lock no longer auto locks when you hit the lock button on the way out of the car.
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We purchased a new 2010 Santa Fe Limited in October of last year, and as it stands today, we've put about 19,000km's on the vehicle (about 12,000 miles for my American friends). About 14,000km's in, we started noticing a vibration from the rear under acceleration. When you reached cruising speed (regardless of the speed), the vibration would go away, but would appear under acceleration. What was more alarming was that at slow speeds when making sharp left-hand turns (turning into the driveway, doing a u-turn, pulling into a parking spot, etc), there would occasionally be a loud bang from the rear end. The first time it happened, we thought that we had run over something... actually not but it sure sounded like it!
We took the vehicle into the dealership, and after an inspection they found a rock in one of the rear springs. They removed the rock, applied the TSB to place covers over the springs, test-drove the vehicle, and said the issue was resolved.
The next morning, I was heading out of town to pick up a friend, and experienced a loud bang when I pulled into my buddies driveway. Problem was NOT solved. Called Hyundai again, and made another service appointment. This time with the requirement of having a tech come with me for a test drive.
I was able to reproduce the vibration, which really shocked the tech. At the same time, I was also able to duplicate the loud bang when making sharp turns (I had actually caused it to happen twice when driving around the dealership, but I was alone in the vehicle at the time!), when he concluded that there was probably some binding going on in the drive train. They took the vehicle in, and after looking at it, determined that the coupler in the drive train was defective, and needed to be replaced. They didn't have the part in stock, so they had to order it in; my concern was that the vehicle was unsafe, but they assured me it would be fine to drive until the part came in. I went on a weekend trip with the vehicle, and experienced some pretty severe binding when pulling into parking spots (no bangs, but imagine driving through a lake of molasses) - I had to really give it gas to get it moving into the parking spot - not nice, especially considering what might have happened had it 'unbound' while under throttle...it was certainly not safe, but I survived.
After THREE weeks, the part finally arrived, and was installed yesterday. I'm happy to announce that the vibration has ceased, and I can only assume that the loud bang is gone as well (although I couldn't duplicate that on demand, so I'll never know for sure that it's gone). The Tech did mention that it was a new version of the part, so they just didn't install a new part, it was an upgraded new part.
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We have a 2006 CM later model Santa Fe 2.2 CDX+ 7 seater. Engine light came on last week and since then car does not shift into 4th gear. It revs very high upto 5000rpm with no increase in speed, it's limited to 30-35mph.
I had this problem back in 2010 where the Hyundai franchise identified a fault with the EGR which was replaced under warranty, and then a year later a problem with the fuel sensor which was also replaced.
I had the local garage check the EGR and give it a clean based on the steps provided by a member here - no change. So I took it to Hyundai but this time, they are reporting fault codes P0733 and P0744 which point to transmission problems. I just had a call from the garage who say they believe the gear synchromesh is jamming thus not allowing the change of gears. He said that the diagnostics report that the car is sending the gear change command correctly (pulse generator ok) so does not believe it is an electrical fault.
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Since I got my car back from the dealership after changing the rear shock this summer, I can feel a vibration in the car at highway speed. After the shock were replaced the car steering wheel was out of balance and pulling one side. After they attempt to align the car about 5 times it got a little bit better. Then I found out that they had an accident with my car and tried to hide it: [URL] ....
I suspect the tie rod may have been damaged so that could explain the steering issue. It also seems to have gotten worse over time. I'm trying to figure out the possible cause, if directly related to the tie rod damage or indirectly as if the tie rod damage could have caused uneven tire wear and then causing the vibration over time. I've attached some pictures, the 2 first are from the front passenger side, the 2 last from the front driver side. My tire are the Michelin pilot and this thread seems to suggest those tire might be hard to align properly: [URL] ....
I'm due for my winter tire change soon and see if thing gets better, I'll get them balanced too. I'll check at the same time for control arms/shock damage. But still, I would like some feedback and see if those tread wear are normal and hopefully get to the root of the problem (the outer edge on the tire in the back are much less damaged).
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My mother in laws 2012 Santa Fe had a number of dash lights on (ABS, hill decent, stability control). I put my scanner on it and came up with fault code C1209 which showed up as a faulty right rear wheel speed sensor. I have replaced this module and then cleared the codes.
However, the dash lights still light up and the vehicle continues to throw the same code. I don't work on Hyundai's very often so I am at a bit of a loss.
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How to replace the bulbs of the rear high mount stop lamp on a 2009 Santa Fe?
I got the bulbs already, located the 2 nuts on the inside directly behind the brake light, but when I remove them, the assembly won't pop out.
I know the manual says they recommend getting these particular bulbs replaced at an authorized Hyundai dealer, but since I already bought the bulbs, I'd like to try and do it myself if at all possible.
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2006 GMC Sierra 1500 crew cab 4x4. Bought it with a 3 inch body lift. 2 years ago I put on a 3 inch suspension lift (blocks in the rear and torsion keys in front). Tires were getting worn out and truck had a hop to it, so brand new tires (33's) 4,000 miles ago.
Since putting on new tires I have replaced:
-both front rotors (they were warped)
-front brake pads
-pitman arm
-idler arm
Still have the hop. Cant feel it in the steering wheel and very little in the seat. Mostly in the floor boards. Hop starts at 50 mph and stops at 70 mph.
Front end is stiff since putting on new torsion keys in front.
Have had new tires rotated once and balanced twice with no change.
I know my rear shocks are shot and my front shocks are almost done.
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My car rides smooth until 75-80 mph. At that speed I get a slight but bothersome vibration. I've had the front wheels rebalanced twice and even got an alignment (though usually have no effect on vibrations) but it's still there. I didn't know what to think. Last nite a relative called to ask my opinion of the very same issue he is having with his 08 GS. Almost identical. He says his vibration starts at 80 but ends at 85. He is on stock wheels so my 20's seem less likely to be the problem. This is a recent occurrence. My car has been smooth for 4 years.
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Saturday I picked up a set of OEM staggered 18 inch genny wheels and tires. rims are perfect, no curb rash. Tires all have about 8/32 tread on them. I mounted them myself and I had a horrible vibration that started around 50mph. Sunday I took them down to one of the only local shops that are open and have the TPMS swapped and balanced. Vibration is still there. Monday I take it to America's Tires to have the wheels and tires checked for dents, out of round,etc. and balanced again. One of the rears (245/45/18 had water in it. They removed the water and remounted and balanced it. Vibration still there. It's definitely better but still shaking at around 55-60mph. Today I went to another shop that had the Hunter road force balancer. Got all four done and alignment. Boom...another wheel had water in it. this time it was one of the fronts (225/45/18). Still vibrating.
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2010 RX 350 NAP ... Brand New and OEM where it would apply : Tires (Conti's LX20s)
Brakes / Rotors (had same shake before replacing and did not improve after replacement but maybe I am dealing with a bad caliper here)
Tie Rod Ends
Stab Links
Lower Control Arm Ball Joint
None of which have solved a vibration issue thus far. Strut feels solid and the corner push test had the car settle out in less than 2 bounces.
If car has sat a while the driver front (where the issue lies) feels like a imbalanced tire/bent rim (rotated the wheels just to be sure it didn't follow the wheel/tire) or like a broken belt. The tires are almost brand new and only put them on because I was trying to eliminate the point of issue.
When braking, a light touch to the brake pedal makes a almost light clank sound (like weight shift is causing the clank or perhaps a sign of a bad caliper (although pad wear looks even but didn't have rotors rechecked but even with brand new rotors it was there so I don't feel it's a warped rotor plus the vibration is there even when not applying the brakes.
There is only one control arm and the bushing didn't look cracked beyond the normal surface cracking I have seen on most rubber bushing. The upper support is from the strut so perhaps a bad strut or maybe strut support/cap/bearing?
At a total loss as the local garages cannot find anything wrong. My thought was a bad wheel bearing, although there is not any grinding sound that you typically hear when a hub is going bad.
Could also be the CV Joint but not sure how to tell if that really issue the issue unless I replace all the other parts first (hub, caliper, strut/support/bearing).
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My Prius v has 1300 miles. I didn't notice at first but now I notice a constant high frequency vibration in the car, especially at highway speeds. Took car to a tire shop and had tires dynamically balanced, same problem. I think it must be the toyo low profile tires or its in the drive train and just inherent to the hybrid system. Seems to be the same whether in eco mode or ev. Vibration is the same on smooth or rough roads. Dealer service manager says he is not aware of any problems. Suggests bring car in for a test drive and compare with another new one.
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I have a 2012 camry se v6, with about 56k miles. It has been lowered on H&R springs since 20k miles. I recently got new rims, but used my old tires. I developed a high speed vibration. I got it aligned twice, and balance twice. But i still can not get rid of this vibration?
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At high speeds 70mph + there is a vibration with my 2006 Passat. You can definitely feel it at your feet, and slighty at the body. It is snowy and cold up here, I tried a few different roads, no change.
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I have a high speed vibration from 58+ ... 4x4 drivers rear cvjoint bad? The U joints are good, I had the Diff rebuilt due to bad bearing about 1000 miles ago. I guessing its the Cv joint do to grease is all over around the joint. How does one check the cv joint?
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I bought a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L AWD about 5-6 months ago. It has close to 120,000 miles and has a terrible vibration at highway speeds. It starts around 55-60mph and gets increasingly worse as speed increases. The steering wheel originally vibrated quite violently, but after changing the "front axles" it resolved only the vibration in the steering wheel
I took it to a local shop we trust, they changed the "front axles", all spark plugs, ignition coils, timing belt, transmission fluid change, and a o2 sensor.
I changed out a serpentine belt, tensioner, and idler pulley (due to a squeak), another o2 sensor, and tried to change the transfer case + rear differentials fluid. I couldn't change them because the fill plug was very stuck... we used a propane torch and a large socket wrench.
Anyways, after the front axles were replaced, the steering wheel got significantly better, there is however some vibration through it. After they were replaced it did not fix the vibration shaking the whole car. I've noticed that when you let your foot off the accelerator all the way, the vibration stops. When you step on the accelerator again it starts shaking very bad, and then begins to get slightly better. The vibration has a rhythmic timing to it. It seems like it pulsates stronger, then softer every 1/2 second or so
Also I have had the wheels balanced 3 times. I doubt it's the tires, unless a tire is out of round. My rotors also do not seem to be warped. When I brake, there is no shaking/shimmying. I was wondering if it could be the engine mounts? This vibration is very annoying, since I have to drive long trips sometimes. Other than this problem I like this car and would love to see it fixed.
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My 2012 Kia suffered a "catastophic failure" of its transmission about 10K miles. It was replaced, I got a rental, all covered by warranty. Last month I noticed a vibration as I rounded a tight curve at high-ish speed (DC beltway). It felt like mu left front tire was going to fall off. But it came and went. two weeks later, again, vibrating and now I'm noticing it is associated with acceleration. Boyfriend in passenger side says it feels like Right rear wheel, I still feel like it's left front. Next day I drive to Virginia beach and almost turn around, the whole car is shuddering on acceleration at low speeds. I hit 95 and it settles down, but I took it in to dealer as soon as I returned.
Dealer couldn't find anything, so they rotated and rebalanced tires. I drove it home, no problem. Parked it for 2 weeks while I drove my other car. Next time I drive, vibration is back. This time dealer drives it, agrees it feels vibration, couldn't find a cause, but maybe it's debris on axle. Cleaned wheel wells, axles etc. Drove home no problem. Next day, vibration is back. Every time I accelerate it feels like I'm going to drop an axle, when I ease up, it decreases. Worse on curves. At constant speed, no vibration. I don't want to take it in again unless I can point these guys in the right direction. I really want to just give the car back and say give me another one.
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I have a 2004 2.7L V6 GLS Hyundai Santa Fe AWD that I purchased about a year ago. The car has about 114,000 miles on it I believe. My problem is that I have an annoying vibration at idle and at highway speeds of 60-65 mph. The vibration decreases somewhat towards 70 mph. The vibration at idle is usually present, but sometimes vanishes for no apparent reason. The car is very smooth below 55 mph, but when around 60-65 mph becomes quite violent at times. The side view mirrors shake very badly and the vibration can become tiresome.
Originally the shop believed that the front axles were the culprit and replaced them – this mitigated some vibration felt through the steering wheel, but not much of the vibration throughout the cabin. The wheels have been balanced 3 times, alignment checked, and wheels do not seem to be bent/dented. (The tires were road force balanced)
In addition I have also had the following work done:
-2 oxygen sensors replaced (both post-catalytic converter)
- 2 Catalytic converters (replaced to pass emissions)
-Timing Belt Replaced
-Serpentine Belt Replaced
-Idler Pulley and Auto-Tensioner Replaced
-Ignition Coils Replaced
-Spark Plugs Replaced
-Transmission Fluid Change
-Oil Changes
-1 Tire Replaced (Sidewall Blew Out) (Michelin LTX M/S2 Tire)
-Air Filter Changed
-Crankshaft Position Sensor Replaced (It was Corroded Away)
Why the car is vibrating so that the mechanics can check it out. One idea I have could be the engine mounts – this would explain the vibration at idle (in park). I drive about 10 hours a week on the highway at the speeds that cause this vibration.
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