I have a knocking sound from my D4EB engine (2008 Santa Fe. 120,000 miles)
Problem has been any diagnosis of the cause because the mechanics cannot agree. One has said top end and another bottom end. If it is top end when I think the consensus would be to get the present engine rebuilt. However, if bottom end then, because of the increased cost, the better option might be to replace with a reconditioned engine.
Bought a 2011 Santa Fe in May. When I'm warming up the car, there is a banging or knocking sound coming from the passenger side wheel area (I think). The colder the outside temp, the louder the sound.
View 9 RepliesOur 2009 Santa Fe has a knocking sound coming from the undercarriage of the vehicle. It cannot be heard when parked or when coasting. If I gently depress the gas pedal enough to rev the engine to 1500-2000 rpm when traveling at speeds of 35mph or greater it can be heard. The rate of the knocking / thumping appears to be related to vehicle speed, i.e., the faster we move, the higher the knocking rate.
Yesterday I emptied the vehicle of all contents and was still able to produce the sound upon demand.
My 2007 Hyundia Santa Fe has an erratic knocking/clicking sound when idling & has for about 6 months or so. Other than the clicking noise it drives just fine. I am wondering if this may be a result of a bad oil change experience I had in 2012. I'll explain ....
When driving home, once the car had warmed up, my oil pressure warning light came on whenever I came to a stop or idling. I thought this was strange but thought maybe it had to do with new oil fill & would go away.
All I knew was I didn't have the problem before the oil change - nor have I ever in all the time I have owned the car - seen the oil pressure light come on and stay on once the car is started. So I brought the car into Hyundai as soon as I could to explain the situation. They opened the oil filter compartment and quickly realized that whoever changed the filter neglected to put back a part that sits on top of the filter that regulates the oil pressure (only a $15 part without which the damage & cost of driving without is potentially huge).
There is more, but I think you get the drift. So, I am wondering if possible damage as a result of that faulty oil change might have something to do with my current problem or is it not possible given the time/km between when that happened and now? The car had just over 80,000 km at the time and currently has aprox 105,000. I have properly maintained the oil etc since that as well as prior to.
Last Saturday I had the oil changed at the dealer on my 2011 Santa Fe Limited V6 3.5. As I left the lot, I noticed knocking and reduced power. I went back in and they took it out for a drive and it was gone. The engine had been turned off and back on when before they went out. I went out with them again and it was gone.
Today I drove about 10 minutes, stopped and turned it off for about 10 minutes, and when I started it again and drove off, the knocking was back. It lasted about 5 minutes in stop and go driving. I might have been imagining it, but it didn't seem to completely recover until I turned off the engine and started it again (about 10 minutes in).
What can I do to narrow it down? I don't know what it is, but when I try to think what the symptoms are like, it's as though a cylinder is not firing. So far it has only happened twice and the first time right after an oil change. It has 50,000 miles on it if that's relevant.
My 2008 Santa Fe (3.3 2WD) produces a knocking sound from the front every time I go on a bump while the wheel is turned. I can pretty much reproduce it at will. Occasionally, I hear the same sort knock from the rear as well, but I cannot confirm that it is consistent.
I do suspect that something is wrong with the struts. The only issue is that the car has 67k KM (41k miles), and to me, that seems a little early for that sort of thing to happen. My driving is pretty standard on standard roads, although winters up here tend to produce potholes that I sometimes cannot avoid.
I've had my struts fail on my last car (2000 Mazda Protege), but that was 9+ years old and with almost 3 times as much mileage on it.
I have a 2012 Santa FE 2.4L, I have a knocking sound happening in my front passenger side once I go over bumps. Would like some info on the different parts that can cause this.
View 10 RepliesMy car has less than 500 miles on it. Yesterday when I started it, I heard a knocking sound. I only put 87 octane gas in the car as the manual said 87 or higher. I don't know if I made a mistake putting 87 in there.
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 Santy 3.5L (I am the original owner) just turned 91.4K miles and all of a sudden a VERY LOUD Engine Knocking sound came from the top of the engine. I have been changing my own oil since new with synthetic Mobil 1 and a new filter every time, and I never had any issues. I changed it last week at 90K prior a Spring Break trip (1350 miles).
Then yesterday after I let her rest for 1 day, I took the kids to school and within 10 miles of my house the ticking HARD loud noise started happening. I pulled over near a shop (within 1 block of where the noise started) and they said...don't drive it it sounds like a lifter collapsed, or a rod bearing or something big...
I had her towed to the dealer and the first thing they told me is to gather all the oil change receipts and a "manifesto" and they asked me how often I change the oil... I said every 5K miles. I change my own oil and have done since day 1.
BTW, Timing Belt, Water Pump, tensioners, belts, coolant, spark plugs and coils were changed last year at 77K miles.
The car should still be covered under the 10year/100K Powertrain and I believe they are trying to build a case so Hyundai can cover this or not...
They still need to tell me what's wrong... I change my own oil so I don't have receipts for "oil changes" and I have a log of when oil was changed...
My 2007 CM Santa Fe 45K miles began acting up intermittently. We have owned it 5 years from new and never any issues whatsoever. My wife told me that first thing in the morning it made a horrible clanking noise and the entire car shuddered so she shut it off. Then it cranked and ran for days normally. The other morning I got in it and cranked it and man, it sounded like rods knocking, pistons slapping the crank, it was awful. Actually it sounded like premature or off time detonation, the engine would not idle and would die.
After a couple more tries the engine cranked and ran smoothly but with increasing idle speed and after two instances of normal cranking but idle increasing ever upward (same morning in sequence of 10 minutes or so of trying) I called AAA and had it carried to the dealer afraid oil pump giving out, timing belt jumped, bad crank / cam sensors, who knows? Oil was changed 5K ago with Hyundai toilet paper filter.
Anyway dealer found a code, something about engine torque excess - who knows - it wasn't causing the horrible cranking idling banging noise... did some ECM/ECU update, and repaired a TSB for the passenger side Airbag seat detector. They kept it over night and still could not make it occur.
My wife is really worried because honestly it sounds like it's going to throw a rod or something *I know it doesn't have them*. It's just a horrible gut wrenching noise. Dealer mechanics could not find anything wrong and they kept it overnight to crank it cold, and when we picked it up today it cranked fine.... She can't trust it anymore.
I am getting a loud knocking noise from the engine on my Santa Fe. The car is very low mileage of around 51K and has regular service and oil change.
Not sure what has caused this but there is a loud tapping/knocking noise coming from the engine. Have got it locally checked with the garage and Hyundai Workshop also but both have suggested that Oil levels are appropriate and they need to open engine to investigate more.
At a higher RPM the sound becomes more loud and recognizable.
I have a 2007 2.7L with 150,000 miles. Yesterday while driving at 20mph my engine all of a sudden started knocking like I lost the timing belt which I replaced 10,000 miles back, including the tensioner fully (bought as a kit off Rock auto). I parked immediately. Today we investigated a little more and what we found is that os is more like a loud knock and not a metal on metal sound. It definitely knocks faster or slower with the RPM of the engine. It even ceased for a while and the engine idles silently but then on the next restart it came back.
It even went away again with an increase in RPM but then came back at an idle or sometimes didn't. You can clearly hear it in the rear of the block. I will admit I have never changed the plugs. We can a scan on it and a misfire in #4 cylinder came up. Unfortunately my check engine light is always on because I have a bad sensor in my fuel tank that ill get to some day. So I'm not sure if that code is recent or not. I know I need to identify the location of the sound more closely before anyone touches my motor. Could it be bad gas that causes a misfire and knocking? I have had that code before and new gas fixed the misfire but there was no knocking then. I religiously change my oil every 5000 miles and just did 500 miles ago.
I own a 07 Hyundai Sonata Limited with 31000 miles. It is 20 degrees today. When I start the car up there is this knocking sound from the engine. Once the car warms up the knocking sound only happens when the car is in drive or reverse. When the car is in park or neutral it is fairly quiet. The sounds is still there but not as loud as in drive or reverse. I have done the routine synthetic blend oil changes between 3500-4500 miles.
View 14 RepliesTrying to find any information on what's happening with my 2008 2.2 Diesel Santa Fe ... Been driving fine until I pulled up at a set of traffic lights yesterday and started hearing a loud rattle- knocking coming from the engine at idle.
Put it in gear and drove and it goes away. When at idle if you rev the car it goes away.
Mechanic seems to think it could be clutch as it vibrates the gearbox, but sound seems to be more prominent around the engine, my thoughts were maybe a loose timing tensioner.
Clutch replacement is very expensive.
When the engine of my 2007 Camry LE V6 is cold, it makes a ticking/knocking sound. The engine has 100,000 kms on it (60k miles). The frequency of the sound varies with the speed of the engine, not with the speed of the car.
When engine is cold: The sound happens roughly twice a second when the engine idles (at 700-800 rpm).
When engine is warm: The noise is less audible. It can be heard when idled at a stop, but you have to listen for it. The noise cannot be heard on the highway.
The car doesn't burn oil, and the oil level is ok. I had the oil changed 3000 kms ago, and it is still very clean (clear). The was the same before and after the oil change.
I am wondering if it could be the lifters, bad plug, or maybe a timing issue.
I have a 2011 Santa Fe 3.5L with about 108,000 kms (roughly 65,000 miles) that seems to have produced a bit of a whining sound from the engine. It will do it in park, or in gear, and the sound seems to increase slightly with an increase in RPMs.
View 7 RepliesI just bought this 2008 santa fe with a 3.3 V-6. It has 200kms on it. Here is the problem- I start the engine, and for the 1st second of running there is NO noise,.....but a second later it sounds like a chain slapping around in the engine HARD. it lasts for about 2 seconds and then the motor is quiet. It seems like the longer the car sits,..the worse it gets. If your only letting it sit for 20 minutes or so, you wont hear it.
View 5 RepliesAbout 10 seconds after I started the engine, I could hear booming sounds from the engine and the same time the engine rpm needle fluctuated up and down and I could hear the engine seemed to die down and then went back up again together with ups and downs of the rpm needle. This issue just happened recently (about 2 gas tank fill-ups ago). When I started to drive I had the same problem at red lights as I could see the rpm needle fluctuated. The problem got worse when I engaged AC. However, I did not have any check engine light on. I tried a different gas station but no luck. I even used higher octane gas (93) but still had the same issue. I've got only about 15000 miles on the santa fe.
View 7 RepliesI put the trans in gear it won't move and has a grinding sound and rolls unless I use the emergency brake. I bought this used from a friend at 80k miles, now it has 130k miles and has been factory serviced regularly.
View 1 RepliesI turned off the engine and I get a whirring sound, quite loud, that seems to be coming from the top of the engine around where the injectors are.
View 51 RepliesI have a 2009 AWD Santa Fe with a little over 43K miles. Over the past few months it's developed a knocking noise that is most audible from the front drivers side area. The knocking speeds up or slows according to the car's speed, and appears somewhat louder when the steering wheel is turned. My initial suspicion from my surfing here is either a CV joint or wheel bearing.
I took it to the dealer that sold it to me and am getting increasingly frustrated with their work. The first irritation was yesterday when the service advisor called to say the problem was corroded rear rotors and brake pads; both wear items not covered under warranty. Though skeptical (since I was hearing the noise coming from up front, not from the back) I authorized the $300+ for turning the rotors, replacing brake pads and flushing the brake system.
When I showed up to retrieve the car I was told it'd been test driven and the problem was fixed. I asked the tech specifically whether he'd checked the CV joints and he assured me he had and they were fine. Upon driving away it was immediately obvious the knock was still there. Back to the dealer. I had the tech drive it with me in the passenger seat. He acknowledged he could now heard the knocking, but claimed he previously couldn't hear it over the horrible loud squealing from my rusted rotors; nor had he heard it on his alleged post-fix test drive. The problem with that is I've never heard this claimed horrible loud squealing, nor has my girlfriend, nor have any other regular passengers.
Back at the dealership the situation escalated when the service advisor, in defense of his tech, also claimed the horrible squealing rotors had drowned out any other noises. The problem with that is he admitted he'd not come along on any of the previous claimed test rides, and claimed to have heard the horrible squealing rotors only while the car was in the shop and/or up on the lift while the tech was turning a rear wheel by hand. Err, if the car was not driven any for distance or speed, of course you wouldn't have heard any knocking up front.
Yesterday evening I got a call from the shop advising the problem had now been diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing, front driver's side. I was assured it'd be fixed and ready this afternoon. All well and good. I showed up this afternoon and the service advisor stated the car was just getting buttoned up and we're going to test drive it. Fine, I'd like to come along on the test drive I said. He agreed, asked me to sit in the waiting room. In a few short minutes though - not long enough IMO - he came back out to advise the tech had just test driven the car (without me?!) and the knock is still there.
As of this writing I have no info from them as to what it might be. I left the car with them and asked the service advisor to have the tech(s) double check the CV joints. He got huffy with me and declared that if if the tech said he'd check them, there's no need to do so again. At this point I'm not sure whether I can trust this dealers' service department. I don't think the service advisor is being honest with me - I think he's been caught in a minor fib re: test riding and is compounding the situation by sticking with it.