Every time car is locked, a very loud buzz comes from the nearside front door. I have had the problem for over a year - the locking still works, but clearly something is wrong.
View 5 RepliesI have a sante fe which has problems (suspect multiple) with central locking , intermittently locking itself - very annoying - even driving down the road.
Drivers door controls for central locking unlock button does not unlock the doors - button just doesn't do anything. Lock button works fine. In addition window controls on drivers door dont work - only control that works is the one for the drivers door.
Final piece of the puzzle - the red light in the drivers door does not work either nor does the drivers door button panels light up. Starting to wonder is there a fuse or quirky power supply problem somewhere.
I have an accent 2001 saloon which I bought a few months back. Turned out to be a real bargain but the door locking feature is really irritating. It will work 2-3 times in a row then stop for the rest of the day. The next day it works first thing but may not work again for several hours. Then 2-3 times in a row .. yeah you guessed it - the dreaded intermittent fault.
Now, the door handle inside the door has broken (plastic piece has snapped) so I am fitting a new one. Thought it might be a good idea, while I am at it, to have a look inside the door. I took out the whole door lock mechanism - see photo 1. Having found I could get it out, I put it back pending a bit of advice.
I presume that there is some sort of electric-powered actuator or solenoid or whatever, that locks all the doors from the drivers side. Is the piece I am talking about, the close up in photo 2?
If so, (or not) what is the likely fault here, and what can I do about it? I have put some WD 40 spray into the locks and eased them a bit. Otherwise not sure what to change/replace.
If you push the remote lock button twice the horn beep is very load and startling. Can this be programed for a lower volume sound?
View 5 RepliesI have 2007 Santa fe Limited and have problem with door locking while driving. All doors was locking automatically after acceleration before, but now all doors remains open no matter what speed and what distance I drive.
View 5 RepliesI'm a new owner of a Santa Fe 07. My car will not completely lock with the remote. I have to remember to manually check it if the alarm doesn't beep. All the other doors will lock except this one door behind the driver. My model is AWD, it the 7 passenger one . It's not the base model. I didn't have the hard copy of the manual but I have a digital copy. We just got this on 4/24/15. It has 90 warranty but don't think they will fix this issue that I thought was only the childproof lock mechanism somehow or was not a big deal but now I'm not so sure.
View 9 RepliesWhen I lock my 15 Sonata everything seems (sounds) fine, however when I open there is a "loud" buzz from the rear passenger door...............
View 13 RepliesI have the 3.5 LX AWD 2004 Santa Fe 102,000 miles purchased new. My power steering fluid reservoir was leaking from the top a lot. I read here that the screen in it could be clogged. I went to the garage the manager never heard of such a thing he said, and never heard of a PS reservoir having a screen (I gave him the TS. He said if I got the part and wanted it changed they would change it. I did that. It was done 2 weeks ago and now it all dry under there. But, now.. there is a low whine on the passenger side under the hood toward the back, but when I put the A/C on or the heater on defrost (Not when heater is on, only in defrost) there is a loud rumble/hum from the same area. Shut A/C or defroster it goes back to a low buzz/hum again.
I had the power steering pump replaced at the dealer about 2 years ago, its not old. The noise is NOT any louder when I crank the steering wheel all the way to either side. The fluid since replacing the Power steering fluid reservoir is staying at the same level, full, no leaking. When I put everything on, lights heat only (No defroster), radio, lights the noise doesn't get any louder either, I tested that. The other night after driving about a half hour to and from a place I went to u-turn in a parking lot and that whine was louder for a minute and while driving forward slowly out of the parking lot getting up to speed.
When I asked about the PS fluid reservoir, I had also, asked the repair shop manager his opinion, of that loud hum/rumble when I put the A/C on (At the time I thought it only happened with the A/C when the compress popped on). He listened said "That's the A/C compressor it's going and its going and cost more to replace it then its worth on your 2004." So, that's the background.
Questions: 1. Just wondering if you think it is the A/C compressor that is the loud noise when on, would the A/C compressor even go on when the defroster is on, the A/C is off, and the heat on and there for still make that loud rumble??? Or does that defroster fact kind of mean its not the A/C compressor??
2. What is your opinion of the low buzz/whine noise now (When heat/AC off)? I can't pin point it totally in park when listening, its very low (Except that one point where it was loud for a few minutes driving out of the parking lot.) (The motor sounds a bit louder in it in front too just side observation)
I almost worried if the low buzz was the Transmission as its fluid hasn't been changed in a few years (Because the mechanic said sometimes changing the fluid when its been a lot of miles between can actually cause problems to the transmission) It was done at the dealer around 45,000 miles and now my Santa Fe has 102,000 miles.
Could the power steering pump be going bad in only 2 years from what I've described? Or could the PS fluid reservoir having been spitting PS fluid from the top for a couple of weeks have caused damage to the PS pump now?
The fluid never got lower then full when it was coming out of the top and only when driving, I kept checking it. The mechanic who put the PS fluid reservoir in said he had no idea if it leaked from the top due to the screen as he felt the screen had only minor debris that was not blocking a lot of the screen since its a big screen (He didn't look too hard though), and it was possible even a small crack in the reservoir could cause that same fluid coming out at the top. He said it could be either he didn't notice a crack either.
Or are these two noises possibly not related even though possibly from the same area on the passenger side under hood.
Every VW I've owned has incorporated a central locking feature (i.e. - You hold the key in the off position, and it closes the windows and sunroof). Does our car not have that option? I though I heard somewhere that if you hold the alarm set button in the key fob that it'll close everytihgn, but that doesn't work.
View 9 RepliesI was wondering if it's possible to get my windows to all close when I press my central locking on my Passat? It's a 2001 B5.5 model with front and rear electric windows. Is it possible and if so how?
View 6 RepliesI am trying to set my locking system so that one touch on the remote (lock or unlock) will control both doors and the hatch, instead of having selective unlocking; I can't find this in the MFD menus, and I can't seem to access Controller 46 through VCDS, or anywhere else I'd expect to find that function. but where to change this setting?
View 22 RepliesI have 120K miles on my 07 Santa Fe Limited AWD. I have a significant buzz/hum coming from the rear. It varies in pitch with the speed of the vehicle, and the intensity seems to be less when when veering right. I'm guessing that's a bad bearing, which of course means a hub assembly. Prices seem to be all over the place, but I also see that some have a sensor and others do not. I'm assuming that's an ABS sensor.
View 8 RepliesI'm having some problems with my tailgate (boot) handle. At the moment the boot 'intermittently' works with the central locking. If it doesn't unlock then I have to use the keyfob to open/close a few times before the handle opens the boot. Fortunately it works every time with the key. I must stress that I've never used the key in the boot. The boot lock is set to work with the opening/closing of the central locking. So this problem is NOT user error.
I have posted some pictures of the problem I've now seen with the mechanism. Ok so in the above picture, you can see that I've put a black arrow pointing at the 'latch' in it's correct position.
When you operate the central locking via the keyfob (or inside the car), it pushes the electrical popper (to the left) which rotates the mechanism CLOCKWISE, and in doing so, it pushes the LATCH across so that it can connect with the boot handle
In the following picture, you can see how the 'LATCH' isn't moving across to the position in the first pic. This is why my boot can't open with the central locking.
I must make clear that the electric popper is doing the job as it should. There is nothing wrong with it's function. The problem is the latch is not rotating (clockwise) into it's correct position. It can be moved by hand easily.
The problem could be solved by attaching a spring to the latch, so it pulls downwards. But I cannot understand why or what has stopped it from working as it should. The latch moves fine if you use the key in the lock, so at the moment, the only way to make it open is either open/close the central locking 10times, or use the car key.......
My 2005 Prius has today developed a fault, the central locking won't open or close with either of the remote key fobs. I allowed for a strange coincidence that the batteries in both fobs could die at the very same time and replaced one, still not working. The mini-key in the fob will open/close the central locking (all doors plus rear hatch). But of course the alarm would sound as soon as I opened the door, inserting the fob into the "ignition" socket and starting the car silenced the alarm after about 30 seconds, but the remote fobs still won't operate the central locking or activate the alarm.
View 5 RepliesHad this car for two years and I love it, but the central locking has been a bit glitchy since I bought it. Sometimes it works perfectly for weeks.
Sometimes it unlocks the driver door just fine, but a second click of the button won't open the other doors.
On a couple of occasions (today was the second time) it won't unlock any door. If I use the keyhole in the driver door to unlock that door, I have to hold the key to force the lock to stay up while I pull open the door with the other hand. If I let go of the key, it relocks itself.
After I manually unlocked and opened the driver door, I reached in and pressed the button on the console. It would not unlock the doors. This car has only one door keyhole, the one on the driver door. Locking always works on all doors, and it locks the doors itself as it should as I take off down the street.
When it is misbehaving, it misbehaves with either key and the console button does not work either, so I am pretty sure the problem not the transmitter.
If it always behaved as it did today, I would suspect that the microswitch in the driver door was shorting, and telling the system that the key was in the door and turned full right all the time. However, that would not explain why the usual failure is to open the driver door but not the others. Where is the receiver for the remote lock control?
I have a 2010 Santa Fe. The passenger front door does not close well. It needs a very firm push to latch completely. Regular push and it only catches first click and bounces partially open. I loosened the catch on the jamb, but it seems this is not adjustable.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The factory alarm goes off intermittently and the central locking engages at times without warning.
I took it to an Auto Electrician who checked it over but couldn't work out the problem. So i took it to the dealer who said it was most likely the bonnet sensor. I wasn't convinced but they went ahead and charged $150 to diagnose and adjust the sensor and said everything would be fine.
Within one day of being 'fixed' the problem has reappeared. I am getting sick of disconnecting a battery terminal every night....
I have been having problems on and off with my central locking for a while now with my 05' Toyota Camry Altise. 95% of the time it works perfectly, however occasionally the central locking will refuse to lock the doors, chirping at me twice as if a door is open. I know that all of the door switches are working fine so this isn't the cause of the problem.
I believe it may have something to do with the fact that I had to replace my driver side door a while ago, and that now the actuator may not be working properly or misaligned and jamming. What should I be looking for to make sure this doesn't occur? I thought it all went back in perfectly. Interestingly I can get around the problem by turning the ignition on and off and trying again.
I get this loud click noise coming from the front end of my vehicle when I apply the brakes. It seems to happen much more often than not, especially at low speeds. I can only describe it as some sort of loud clicky clanky sound, it's also a single sound, it doesn't go on and on and it only happens when I apply the brakes.
View 2 RepliesWell its the coldest this SF has endured while in my barn. It was -23C last night or early this morning went we got up. -19C now but it doesn't warm up with a slight change sitting outside. I started it ok but these newer vehicles sure make a lot of whining and other noises when its this cold until they run for a minute they quiet down.
My old Grand Cherokee was a lot quieter even with near 300k on it it. But my wife's Jeep Compass a 2009 made enough noises as well. Both have synthetic oil in them. I just don't like hearing all that and wonder what its like for you that are in much colder climate with your SF since -30 to -40C is common in other parts of Canada in the Winter. Just curious because it cannot be good and the PS pump must be one of the complainers I am sure.
Just got the girlfriend a 2002 Santa Fe and the front passenger door locking is a bit random! Sometimes it unlocks and unlocks ok from the key in the drivers door or the lock/unlock buttons, other times it half locks / unlocks (the lock button on the door panel half moves!) and other times it just ignores me all together! The cabling and cable boot from the body to the door seems in good condition (my audi A4 had that problem and you really dont wanna know about the wiring nightmare i had to fix that!!! bloody Germans!!). My feeling is that its a worn actuator.
View 2 Replies