When I roll up or down the driver side glass, it sometimes gives squeaking sound. Checked with one Garage; said there is no quick fix for this.
View 4 RepliesI bought my 2011 Santa Fe about 6 weeks ago and only have just over 1000km on the odometer. I have an appointment next week to have the dealer look at my car because I hear a lot of noises. First, I hear a constant squeaking sound in the driver's side window/door frame. I think I have this figured out - it's the weather stripping/seal on the door - perhaps the door isn't fitting tightly. I'm not too worried about that sound. I'm also hearing a rattling sound in the rear end, usually when I go over bumps. It sounds like something underneath the car is loose and is banging every time I hit a bump. It's not a loud rattling noise, but enough to be noticed for sure. Also, I've heard a rattling noise on the front passenger's side door somewhere but I can't seem to pinpoint where exactly. Again, it's like something is loose and rattles when I hit a bump. Should I be concerned? I'm a bit nervous because the last car I bought turned out to be a complete lemon and I bought the Santa Fe to rid myself of worry - I haven't been successful with that so far. I have gone through the interior to make sure nothing's loose and rolling around and making the noises, I've repositioned all the seat belt tensioners etc - nothing makes these noises go away.
View 24 RepliesI heard a squeak sound from my driver door when drive on the uneven road...
View 3 RepliesJust spent 12 hrs in our new 09 SF Ltd listening to a squeak/tick/click coming from driver's side A pillar area, front door jamb, or side window. I suspect - but am nowhere near sure - it's the windshield moving against gasket or molding. Had a similar issue in the Mazda3 I traded.
View 13 RepliesMy wife has a 2005 Santa Fe with the 4 button window contol, and as of the other day her driver's side window won't roll down. However all the other windows will roll up and down from the switch. Is it likely that her side has quit at the switch from being used the most, or would it be a problem with something else on the driver's side since all the other switches work?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundia Santa Fe. The passenger front window will not roll down from driver side switch but will from passenger switch but then will not go up on passenger side switch. I found a broken wire on driver side and repaired it. I put a test light on the wires on the passenger side and used the driver switch and the test light lights when using the up button and down button! I have already put a new master switch in and tested all switches they all work!
View 1 RepliesI have been having problems with my drivers side power window on my 06 Ford F-150. At first, it would roll down, but wouldn't roll back up, so I replaced the switch. After replacing the entire power window control switch, if you push the switch for the drivers window down, it will start to go down, then stop, and you have to press it about 20 times to get it all the way down. You can definitely hear the switch clicking off. All the other windows work perfect. I took it to get the oil changed and asked about it, and they said to change out the regulator, which I did, but the same thing happens. I checked the fuse and that was fine. Is there a relay or something I should check?
View 12 RepliesI bought my R from Carmax about a month ago with about 26K miles on it (and, needless to say, I am in love with the car). However, after a week or two of driving, I noticed a squeaking/rattling sound coming from the front driver's side wheel well area when I let off the brake. It is loud enough for me to hear it with the windows rolled up, and it continues for several seconds at least after I let off the brake (maybe longer, but I can't hear it over the exhaust).
The rattle sort of sounds like it may have something to do with the turning of the wheel, so I thought it might be related to caliper vibration or something (not that I really have any clue. At all.). Anyhow, I took my R to Carmax to have them look at it because it is still under the 30 day warranty, and I figured I would start there before taking it to the local VW dealership. I got a call a few minutes ago from the service guy, who said the following:
"Our technician took a look at your car and determined that the sound is coming from your suspension. However, it is a normal sound and there isn't anything that needs to be fixed."
I argued with him and said that the noise may or may not be immediately harmful to my car, but it is certainly not NORMAL, and something needs to be tightened, lubricated, or replaced. He said he would have his tech look at it again.
My son was hearing a bit of a squeaking on the passenger side. So I decided after some time to pull the front wheel. (most important brake). Well the pad wasn't moving on the outer guides (serviced it as required and lubed to get it moving). But the lower guide pin wouldn't move in/out. Needed to drift it out and it was very well rusted end to end. I put new pads on early as year I am sure and all was fine. I cleaned the pin on my wire wheel grinder. That lower pin had a collar near then end. Turns out its rubber, I thought it was a metal spring collar. Oh well the wire wheel did a number on it. I don't know the significant of that piece nor whether the pin is in the right place since the top one is different. I do these one at a time so its almost impossible I swapped them in the number of times they've been out.
I never seen so much tightening on any vehicle of pads and pins rusting in as on this vehicle. One has to wonder why. My vehicle also seems to have or what sound like a gear slap upon engaging in reverse or forward from front and back which is most notable after sitting and first engaged. Not every time but this is built in 2007 and there is a TSB for some washers. Hyundai Canada does NOT use the same TSB number they have their own. I talked to a dealer about it but he never indicated it would be the cause only its a different number. I am not impressed in this AWD drive power train. It needs a lot of TLC and the slap I hear is typically due to power train engagement play/slack being excessive most likely due to wear somewhere.. Even my rear sound off not a howl but noisy running which doesn't change with road surfaces so its not the tires. Maybe the AWD bearing or unit going. No of this should even remotely close to needed anything for at least another 100-150k at least.
Due to the rain this weekend I decided to clean out my interior and do some maintenance. Lately my driver-side door has been making a squeaking sound. As such, I decided to lube up all the doors just in case. Upon inspecting all the doors/hinges I found that both the driver-side rear door and passenger-side rear door hinge bolts are rusted real bad. These are the bolts that connect the hinge to the door rather than the hinge to the door frame.
I inspected the door for any sign of water intrusion, but could not see anything out of ordinary. Also, nothing else was rusted or appeared to be water damaged. I inspected all the other hinge bolts around the car for comparison and they were fine. It is strange that both rear passenger doors have this issue. I bought the vehicle used and the Carfax comes back clean with no accidents or damage reported.
The only other time I have seen this is when the door has been worked on, and a socket was used which stripped the protective paint off the bolt. Even then only the rough edges of the bolt rusted, and not the entire thing. While I could foresee one door being worked on, I do find it strange that both would have needed work. However, this assumption does not rule out the possibility.
My only other issue of concern which may play into this is the surprising amount of sand I find on the exterior. As good as one can clean a car there are always some places that will never get fully clean. With that said, while the exterior is clean I have found sand residue in little crevices (weep holes) and corners throughout. I am sure that sand and moisture would play a part in causing rust to accumulate, except that no other parts show any sign of rust. This is certainly bizarre to me. I plan on replacing the bolts, but would like to remedy the problem before hand if possible.
I have a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. Today I briefly turned the heat on since the outdoor temp was cool. Later in the day, I resumed the A/C AUTO setting at 72 for BOTH sides of upper vent outlets. I soon noticed that the driver's side blows warm air and the passenger side blows cold air as it should. No amount of adjusting the temp control either up or down had any effect on the driver's side except for constant warm air. Now I know the passenger side can be adjusted separately but both sides were set for the same temp. Never had this happen before. Always before, if I wanted warm air, the warm air would come through the floor outlets. What's causing warm air to come out the top driver's side vents when it should be cold? Could a diverter door be stuck?
View 2 RepliesI have a strange problem. My driver side low beam dont work and my right side high beam dont work. Try different relay (switching), check fuse, bulb etc. Also in my dashboard the right green arrow for the flasher always still on(solid).
If I activate (with the control arm) the right turn flasher the flasher light blink in the dash board and my outside flasher bulb flash but my left high beam also blinking in the same time!
I have a 2007 hyundai Santa Fe GLS. When the AC is on the drivers side blows hot air and the passenger side cold air. Both actuators are working driver side and passenger side. I watched them engage as I changed air flow and temp. What I should look at next? Also, the rear ac button light will not come on and it blows hot as well.
View 3 RepliesOk so here's the deal.. A few weeks back I started to notice my passenger side window started to roll slower than the driver side, not by much but its pretty obvious enough every time you either roll the window down or up.. I made an appointment with a VW service center to have them look at it but they said they can't do anything about it .. Is this true ..? The service guy told me that their would be no way to make the motor of the window go any faster or slower.. However I'm back here again due to some clunking/ticking noise every time I roll my pax side window which develop during their first assessment.. So they ordered me a new window regulator which is getting put in now.. The main and initial problem as to why I made an appointment in the first place was for VW service center to fix my pax side window rolling a bit slowly. Now since they are replacing the regulator of my pax side window I asked the service guy whether this would fix the problem of the window rolling slower compare to the driver side and he bluntly said no.. "we cannot make the motor of the window go slower or faster".. Is their any way to fix the rate of the window to go up or down..?
View 6 RepliesAwhile back I did get my battery replaced and I did reset my windows so they could be used from the driver side panel. As of now, I can roll down all of them from the driver side except for the passenger side rear (window diagonal from driver). The window does roll down from the door itself so the window isn't broken. The light on the driver window switch is lit green, not blinking. However, the light on the window switch on the passenger door is NOT lit and not blinking either. And yes, I did make sure the window lock was not on.
Could the switch, either passenger or driver door, be bad? Should the battery be disconnected and reconnected??
I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe. The driver window controls will not roll down the back windows, but it will close them. What is the issue, I am thinking a broken switch.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 Santa Fe that will only produce heat on the driver side of the vehicle. It does not have dual climate control. So I changed out the heat control actuator and it did not work. I manually moved the lever and still nothing. The air will go from all sections perfectly.
View 1 RepliesI broke the mirror glass on the drivers side mirror. New glass was ordered and I connected all the parts back together. I believe I have everything in the correct place inside and the mirror snapped back into place, but the tension is not there. The mirror is very loose, and I cannot get it to tighten up.
The white bracket that connect to the new glass and snaps into the white motor is the part that I cannot get to tighten up. Do I need to add glue to this portion of the mirror?
Having problem when driving on the highway? Today I noticed the side view mirror glass shakes and moves quite a bit, while the passenger mirror appears to be rock solid. Any easy fix? I have 15k on the car - would this be something covered by warranty? 2013
View 2 RepliesI have a 1996 buick lesabre and the windows on the driver side will not roll down. Front and back. When I push the front window button it clicks but nothing more and when I push the rear window switch nothing happens. I use this car to deliverer mail and it gets really hot inside.
View 1 RepliesI drive a 2009 Santa Fe with 51000 miles on it. Recently the AC vents on the drivers side blow air that is considerably warmer than the air on the passenger side.
View 7 Replies