Saturn - SL2 :: Clutch Pedal Goes To The Floor With No Resistance - Hydraulic System Failed
Jun 12, 2011
I have a 2001 Saturn SL2, with a manual transmission. The clutch pedal recently gave up -- it goes to the floor with no resistance, and I can't shift. I understand that this car has a hydraulic clutch, and that the hydraulic system has failed. My mechanic says the whole transmission system should be replaced, (though he hasn't been able to look at the car 'cause it's stuck in my driveway!) Before I donate the car to charity, could the problem be anything simpler? Or is it a straight forward diagnosis?
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Last night I was driving home and decided to show off at a light. I punched it pretty hard, but it wasn't anything outrageous.. anyway, as soon as I shifted to second, my clutch pedal gave out and dropped to the floor without resistance. I coasted it to a gas station, luckily.. When I lifted my foot the pedal rose back slowly. I tried pumping the pedal, didn't work. I looked for leaks, but none were found. I turned it off, put it in first and tried starting it, and it turned over and jumped/jerked forward, a lot like it did right when I shifted into second and it went out. So I'm assuming that its not the entire clutch cause it wouldn't have engaged the engine. It's not a leak. pumping it didn't work so it's can't be a pressure issue.. what is going on? is it my master cylinder, or maybe my slave?
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So last evening, I went to start my car and the clutch pedal went straight to the floor with no resistance. Car started and was extremely hard to get into every gear. Felt like the only thing pushing the clutch pedal back up was the spring underneath the pedal itself. Clutch pedal was 100% just the day before. Got the clutch line bled (vacuum bleeder) and it worked fine again.
Any clue as to what could caused this overnight?
Its a AWP 1.8t jetta with ASR.. I believe I came across something about a revision in the hydraulic line but I'm not sure.
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Since I have gotten my Sentra 2003 I have had issues with it. This past year my thermostat went about 6 weeks ago. I noticed that when my car would idle the engine would rev. Over the weekend I drove on the highway for 2 hours. When I started slowing the speed don I noticed that I could press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor without any resistance. It came back up. I rolled into the toll plaza and stopped to pay the toll at which point I could shift the shifter into a gear but the car would not catch. No movement. I think my clutch mechanism needs to be fully replaced as the car has 115000 miles with the original still intact. IS that most likely the case and what am I looking at for the cost?
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I have a 2001 Volkswagen passat glx and last week I jumped in and hit the clutch and it fell straight to the floor with no resistance and i barely touched it.... What this means and if i can fix it myself instead of taking it to the dealership ?
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First thing in the morning 2 things happen with my car.
1)When I press the brake the first time after turning it on the pedal goes right to the floor with no resistance. The brakes work, the pads move, but there's no resistance in the pedal.
2)Usually within first 15 minutes of driving there's a gap in braking. There's resistance in the peddle but as the car gets near to stopping there's a... whump where the car acts as though there was a gap in the rotors. It brakes smoothly til near the end then suddenly seems to release and then half a second later it bites again and the car stops.
I've had the pads and rotors checked and they found nothing.
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We have a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse with a hydraulic clutch. The pedal is very soft in the morning and requires a good bit of pumping the pedal to get good pressure. I know the system needs to be bled. Does this mean one of the cylinders is bad? I have added a little bit of fluid over the last year- maybe 2 or 3 ounces total. Right now the fluid level seems fine but it still needs to be pumped before driving.
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I have a co-worker that is having trouble with his 06 passat. He explained that the clutch pedal has no resistance and is on the floor. The dealer he took it to is saying he needs a new clutch and pressure plate claiming that the "pedal doesn't have pressure on it is because the clutch discs won't engage" which sounds backwards if you ask me. Anyway, what could this be? Where could we start tracking this down?
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My clutch has been feeling very strange lately, and has had a mind of its own. I have looked underneath myself, and have even taken it in to two transmission speacialists and they can't figure it out. The master cylinder isn't leaking, and the slave cylinder is fine as well.
Here's what is going on with my clutch...
- I will push in the pedal, and there will be ZERO resistance until about 1 inch from hitting the floor, then all the pressure is there, and I am able to shift. However, sometimes I won't even be able to put it into gear because the clutch won't engage.
- Then I will pump the pedal, and slowly I will gain a little more room on the draw of the clutch, and it will feel fine. All the way to the point where a few days later it will be driving like new.
- Then it will start feeling funky again a few days later and the cycle starts over.
I drive a 2003 GTI 20th AE.
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Just went to leave my apartment and I get at the first traffic light and put it into neutral. Light turns green and I try to put it into first and it won't let me... In fact I cannot shift into any gear while the car is started. Put the flashers on and I am stumped. There was also more resistance in the clutch pedal as soon as this happened.
I turned the car off and tried wiggling it into any gear. For some reason while the car is off I can put it into any gear. So I had to put the car in first gear and start it and limp it home. I had to rev the engine to about 2,800 - 3,000 RPMS in order to get the car to bite and take off. Shifting into any other gear while driving was a hassle and it felt like there was a lot of resistance.
Just did some quick Vwvortex recon and some people are saying that it is a broken pressure plate? Pressure plate welds itself to the clutch? Or possibly a throwout bearing? Also what Transmission is in a 2003 Passat 1.8T Engine code AWM.
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I have a 5-speed transmission pickup (’04 Ford Ranger EDGE SuperCab). Clutch pedal feels "normal", No resistance when shifting gears. Will go into gear with ease, except for 2nd gear (grinding noise), must push clutch to the floor and still grinds; but only 2nd gear. In 1st gear, my truck will slowly creep forward as if unable to engage and not having any kind of pulling power. Even when shifting to 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears, it barely maxes out at 30MPH (top speed unless vehicle is on a slope or slight decline then I can get up to and over 40MPH. Checked brake fluid level, it’s ok. The fluid’s at max. Clutch is relatively new (April 2014), with only about 13,000 miles on it, if that. It must be cylinder issue. Is there any way to tell whether it's the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder?
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I have a 2003 Ford Escape 3.0l V-6. In June while driving to a job interview, my brakes unexpectedly failed. With absolutely no warning, the pedal went straight to the floor. I replaced the master cylinder...problem solved. 5 months later, driving to the gym, after stopping successfully several times with no mushiness in the pedal, at an intersection, the pedal goes straight to the floor...no stopping power.
I can't remember if the brake light came on last time. This time it did. Both times the fluid in the reservoir was full and looked to be relatively clean. Both times there were no apparent leaks in any of the fuel lines, abs module, at the cylinder, etc. I'm no slouch when it comes to car repair. The master cylinder replacement was done correctly, the lines were bled properly.
I have my own theories but I don't like any of them as my car rolls properly at idle, my brakes have not, nor do they currently make any noise or grinding sounds, and the pedal goes all the way to the floor.
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I have replaced the front rotors, calibers, pads and brake lines. I went through the process of bleeding the brakes by using the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front and left front.
I did this about 4 times - process was to pump the break until the pedal was hard then my son kept his foot on the pedal while I release the bleeder value. During this process I kept the master cylinder full.
Took the car out and the pedal went right to the floor when applying the brakes. The car did stop but not as I had expected. So what have I done incorrectly here? Is there something else to check?
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So my clutch has been acting up lately. When it sits for a few hours the clutch engagement point seemed to creep down but over the course of 35 minutes of driving would work its way back up again. Today it was unusually low and wouldn't let me get it into gear. I tried pumping it a few times and realized it wasn't coming back up all the way, I pulled it up and then tried again and it just dropped right to the floor where it now sits. Fortunately I was at work and can hang here until my ride arrives, and will just wait until late tomorrow night to drive it to my shop without stopping...
My guess is I need a new clutch master cylinder. I have plenty of fluid in there although its a bit old so I'll be changing that when I change the cylinder. Could it be the slave cylinder? If so is it a bear to change that? (do I need to drop the trans?)
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So over the weekend my clutch pedal stuck to the floor 2 times and would not come all the way up on several occasions. It has since then stopped doing it. I am wondering if I should bleed my clutch or not. Flush and change fluid?
Just concerned it may turn worse.
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Facts: 1999 Vw passat 1.8t
1 year ago, clutch pedal would not come up off the floor, no life in the pedal.
Problem: Clutch master cylinder, replaced.
6 months ago, clutch finally went bad. Took car to clutch shop, replaced clutch kit(found out after i payed that they only turned the dual-mass flywheel... ). Get car from clutch shop, the clutch pedal came up only 2-3 inches off the floor by itself but you could lift the pedal with your hand or foot, and it would come back up all the way, but it was life-less. It was not pulling fluid in. It was catching extremely low. I called the shop, they said that it was just because it was a new clutch and it would get better. I didn't believe them.
Two days ago, I got into my car and couldn't get it into gear. Clutch pedal would go down with the same amount of force as before. Took it back to the clutch shop and explained the history with the clutch master and then them doing the clutch kit. They said it wasn't bleeding properly and they're not sure if its going to have problems again. Car is working now, but I am concerned that it will have similar problems again.
The tech who fixed it said he pumped fluid into it extremely hard, and that's what made the pedal come up all the way (no longer stops 2 inches off the floor) and its going into gear just fine now. What the problem might have been? Block in the hydraulic lines? If this is the case, does forcing fluid through it fix it?
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My clutch pedal went all the way to the floor. The engine was missing first and then that problem happened with the clutch. I had the car towed to my business, I checked it the other day and the pedal was up. The clutch still doesn't engage.
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Coming to a stop, clutch pedal just lost all pressure. I can bring it back up, but even the slightest touch will send it to the floor again. I get the brake warning light on the dash. What could be causing this?
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1998 Passat 1.8T FWD. My clutch pedal is stuck to the floor and wont spring back up. I can't seem to find the little tank to check the clutch fluid. I have heard the it uses the same tank as the brake lines do, but the tank that holds the brake fluid is full. Can it be the slave cylinder is gone? or just got a air pocket in the line?
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2003 Jetta, 1.8T, 5spd, stock, 129k miles. I am working on a friends car and his complaint is the clutch pedal occasionally sticks to the floor and during this sequence it is hard to shift gears. I removed knee bolsters to inspect under the dash and found all linkage straight, all plastic parts/springs in place and no fluid leaks, I removed slave cylinder from bell housing and found smooth operation and no leaks. I guess I could replace both but I am wondering if there is a common issue. My searches have found broken plastic parts, bent push rods and leaking cylinders.
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1997 Ford Ranger w/manual 5 speed tranny
A few weeks back my clutch pedal seemed a bit softer than usual one day. Still it worked fine... no problems shifting. Today after a short ride it went almost to the floor before disengaging. Now I cannot get it in gear without grinding.
So cold out I'm not sure I want to tackle this right now, what to look for and where?
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