Silverado :: 1999 - Driver Seat Won't Lock In Position


Oct 29, 2014

Driving down the street use brakes to stop slam into steering wheel. Hmmm pretty sure that's a problem..seat won't lock in position now. I have looked at it and cant figure it out. Something is broke or not working I'm just not sure what. I would weld it in position but others much shorter than I drive it too.

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Today my driver side seat belt got locked in the retracted position for no reason. I drove the truck to work, no issues with the seat belt, but when I got in to go get some lunch, I went to put the belt on and it moves about 2-3 inches out of the retractor and locks.

The other issue I'm having, is that I can't get the retractor cover off to see if theres something inside locking the belt or if it is going to need to be replaced.

How to get the cover off and if possible, fix the belt without replacing it.

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I have a 2012 2-door R with sunroof and navigation. Almost from the very beginning the driver's seat had a problem. It would not hold the position of the back. It would slowly keep going back. Over a couple of days of driving (less than 2 hours per day) I would have to adjust the back about a 1/4 turn of the wheel to get it back to the original position. I have taken it back to the dealer twice for this and they could not find anything obvious.

They said that they would need to take the seat apart in order to figure it out. According to them I am the first one with this issue they have heard of. I am debating if I should keep adjusting it every couple of days, or take the chance and let them take it apart, hoping that there will be no collateral damage in the process. How easy/difficult it is to get to the guts of the seat?

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I've noticed a noise coming out of the rear seat for awhile now. Noticed today the driver side rear seat won't latch into position. Don't know how long it was like that. Even the lever inside the trunk is stuck in the closed position. It seems like I shouldn't be able to fold the seat down but I can't get it to close. The dealer said it would be a time consuming fix because they actually have to crawl inside the trunk to get to the assembly.

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My wife is very short and when she drives has the seat in a very high and upright position. We realized that she has to be careful because the driver seat headrest will push against the headliner. I think the adjustment range could have been better planned. Our last car would not allow this to happen.

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I am able to operate my power drivers seat in all position except for reverse. My wife was the last one to drive and the seat is stuck in almost the full forward position. I can move the seat forward but not in reverse.

I've already looked under the seat for blockages along the railing and didn't see anything. I would try to remove the seat, but its positioned too far forward to access where I think the bolts would be. I did notice one unconnected wiring harness coming up from the floor under the seat, but it looks like it doesn't go to anything. Maybe its for models with heated seats or something because I don't have heated seats. My car by the way is a 2009 sonata GLS.

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My 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.

I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.

So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.

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The headrest of back seat will bend over when fold down the seat. But one of the headrests can't go back to original up position. The dealer has adjusted the cable but this just temporarily fixed the problem. The problem is back again. I will go back to dealer but can they really fix it? Should I ask for a replacement of the whole seat?

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I have a problem with an 2000 F250 7.3 6spd. Recently, the "key in the ignition" chime kept dinging even when no key was in the ignition. I read in the forums that a wire can be disconnected to stop the chime. The problem is that after I re-install the cylinder lock, I cannot move the key to the off position to remove the key. I can rotate it to start and run, but it won't move backwards to the off or acc position.

The truck has this little lever that normally needs to be pushed to allow key to be released, but even after pushing that, turning the steering wheel back and forth, and messing with the tilt, I still can't get the key into the off position. I have removed the cylinder and it looks good. It rotates properly and I can remove the key, but only when it isn't installed. I tried replacing the ignition switch, but the lock cylinder still doesn't move.

I have an 04 F250 that I've tried swapping the lock cylinders from the 04 to the 00, but it still doesn't turn. What might be the cause/fix? Also, the 2000 F250 has a intermittent chirping/squeaking sound under the dash that happens even when the batteries are disconnected - might this be a malfunctioning vacuum motor? It happens even though the truck hasn't been driven for a week.

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My son has a 2003 Super Duty with auto locks, but the front wheels won't lock even when turn to locked position. Also when it's in two wheel drive the front drive shaft and axles still spin, are the hubs locked up or is it in the transfer case?

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Well I did that and it still making the noise. I have isolated the noise to the lower part of the seat right behind the molding. Behind the molding and behind the seat control switches there is a white box for the switches. It seems like the noise is coming from there. I noticed that if I pop off the control switches and I loosen the screws for the control switches the noise gets a touch better.

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