My silverado no longer starts and the fuel gauge no longer reads. so far figured out that there is no power to the fuel pump and sending unit. Looking for an engine wiring diagram for this truck with the 6.0 engine?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Silverado 1500 V6 vin code x with 260000 miles, for about a week now in the morning when its damp out or when it has rained the truck won't start, it cranks fine but will not fire. once it sits for a few hours and everything drys up it fires right up with the first turn of the key.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1983 Chevrolet C10 Silverado that I am slowly restoring. I recently had to change nylon timing gear and chain. It ran ok but now will only crank but not start. I am getting gas to the carb and I tried a couple of shots of starting fluid. It didn't try to start at all. I pulled some of the plug wires and I am getting spark. The plug wires look good. I am starting to get a little stumped.
View 19 RepliesI have an 05 diesel. I have noticed the last 3 days I needed to crank it slightly longer to start it and it takes a second before ideling normally. It usually fires right up and jumps to life. Today i drive about 45 minutes. Stoped for about 30 minutes and shortly after I started it back up the check engine light came on. Will the Ex flash you the codes or do you have to have a reader? Thought I would try Autozone tomorrow but not sure if they read deisel codes or not. I was suspecting maybe glow plugs but who knows at this point. It seems to be running fine and I checked all fluids.
View 13 Replies2007 Ranger 4.0.... Initial start of the day it cranks a bit longer than it should. After warm, it starts fine.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2015 IS 350 F-Sport with just under 9K miles. Occasionally, the car takes a little longer to start with a few more cranks. I've never had to push the start button twice. Once, it really seemed to struggle to start, but it did. I've had the battery/starter/alternator checked at 2 different local auto stores, and everything checks out fine.
View 7 Replies'01 Silverado with the 4.8, sitting at 160k right now. I'm starting to notice a loss of power in the truck, when pulling out and accelerating it doesn't put you back in the seat like it used to and when going up a hill you have to force a downshift to not lose 15-20mph... it just seems like I'm pulling an invisible trailer back there. The fuel pump is about 1 year old, fuel filter less than 3 months, plugs and wires are about a year and a half old, PCV valve about 6 months old, fuel pressure regulator about a year old..
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 2500HD P/U with the 8.1L V8. I have owned the truck for ~5yrs and used it with everything towing. For about the last three years, I have noticed that when the truck is in gear (Either Rev. or Drive) the engine idle almost acts like it is missing. It doesn't do this at higher RPM's (say over 1K) while driving.
Last spring I did a tune up (Plugs and wires) and a few of the plugs had quite a bit of build up so I figured that was what was causing the issue. For about 1wk after the tune up it seemed to clear things up (at least I didn't notice it), but then resurfaced.
My question is: should the "Coil" parts that feed each spark plug need replacing, or could they cause this symptom? The ignition system on this truck is a bit different that what I am used to seeing, so I am not sure where I should start looking for the problem.
Also, there are no error codes being thrown.
I have a 2000 Chevy silverado. I recently was having problems with the transmittion not switching correctly. Long story short the shop told me to fix the problem I had to put in
A new transmition as well as a new computer which I did, from another Chevy. It worked for a few days then The truck was not starting and had security light on. Had alarm specialist take look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed. It was reprogrammed at merles. And was still not working. Its unable to start, starts at random once in a long while. ignition switch was changed and still gave same problem. Took to another shop they had a specialist take a look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed again.
Also would it be possible to bypass the anti theft system by adding a remote start, or cutting some wires. I just really need to get this truck running.
I have a 1999 Gmc Truck 1500 5.0 v8. Notice my truck starting heavy..like a low battery or something. This started getting worse over the week till the point where it cranks real slow. So i bought a new battery. Installed battery and still the same issue...slow crank like it wants to lock up. So i removed starter and notice some wear on the fly wheel so i replaced flywheel. Still the same thing! So this week i bought a new starter and guess what same issue. What is cause for a slow crank.
View 11 Replies1996 1500 4.3 19k - After a 3 or 4 block drive I shut truck off for 1/2 hour or so. Went to start and got this no start situation acting like it was either flooded or vapor lock. New battery, new alternator...did act like a flat spot in starter a couple of tries but otherwise normal starter action.
I let it sit for about another fifteen minutes...tried and it started right up? I have been told this is a problem with the distributor cap & rotor going bad and is a common problem. Is this correct? If so, how is this corrected. Does the whole distributor have to be replaced? Rebuilt? Does just the distributor cap and rotor need replaced?
Batt and Alt less than three months old.
Been having an odd problem with getting my truck to start. Pass couple of days I've gotten out from work and gone to start the truck. It cranks just fine but wont start, acts like there is no gas. Let it for a minute or two and try again and it will start right up and keep running with no other problems. Go to leave for the work the next day and the same issue. Weird thing is the problem only seems to happen when its cold out 30F so or below. I was thinking fuel pump but I'm not sure. What to check?
Edit Its a 2002 Excursion XLT with the gas 5.4
Last night my boyfriend took a friend to the check cashing store, truck ran fine. shut it off, and when he came out the truck would not start. it cranks over but won't start. Took ignition coil off and had it tested but its fine. What else could be wrong or what can i do to try to get it to start again.
View 5 RepliesI just went out to move my truck to take out garbage and it cranks but doesn't start. It is 4.6L 4WD. I sprayed ether in intake no change. Checked all fuses all good. It has been raining pretty hard the last 3 days and it has been sitting in rain all 3 days. I checked for codes with a simple code scanner no codes. But the code scanner I used is not able to do KOEO or KOER tests. I know it needs new plugs but it has never sputtered or died on me. Has slight misfire but not engine stopping. I havnt had any check engine lights or problems before.
View 3 RepliesAbout 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
View 5 Replies99 Ford Ranger disguised as Mazda B2500. (Same vehicle I think) 5 speed manual, 4 cyl., no a/c. Bought new and maintained according to schedule. Randomly fails to start. Cranks but won't turn over. I try several hours later and am able to start it. Mechanic has not been able to duplicate the failure to start. Checked thoroughly and finds no problem. I am very hesitant to drive it like this.
View 6 RepliesThis past weekend I noticed I was loosing boost pressure on my 2003 7.3l F250 so I pulled my turbo out found the problem fixed it then put the turbo back in. After it was all said and done I went to start the truck up and it just cranked and cranked a cranked but no start. Worried I didn't hook something up right I checked and rechecked everything to do with the turbo, all good nothing out of the ordinary.
I tried to start again, nothing. Spent all day yesterday trying to figure this out. Replaced the cps still nothing. No movement in tach but I don't remember any on startup anyway. Drained the fuel filter had adequate pressure and such but replaced the filter anyway. Still nothing. Checker all my fuses, one by on and non were blown but I still tried disconnecting my fuel bowl heater and still got nothing. I tried disconnecting the Icp still nothing. There was no oil around the icp either.
I'm getting frustrated that the truck wont start, the truck ran perfectly fine before the turbo removal but now wont even give a sign of kicking up. Just cranks and cranks. Also checked Hpop to see if that's the cause and it's filled like to the brim. But when I'm cranking the truck about 10 sec into the oil pressure gauge kicks up and reads good but only when cranking.
Removing fuel injectors-coolant contamination.. How is this done? I need to see if they are any good-or clean/replace them-after I accidentally left the clip off the hose running out of the thermostat housing when I drained my coolant last week and the first time I drove, coolant leaked onto the top of the engine/manifold depressions, getting onto and into the fuel injectors.
I tried to clean it up as much as possible the first time(finally got it going) but still a few days later the truck at times cranks but does not start-hot or cold. I assume my idiocy is the cause or maybe it is just coincidence of something else? From what I read from my symptoms it could also be the fuel pump relay, pressure regulator, coolant temp sensor, crank sensor.. among other things. My fuel pump is 1.5 years old, so hopefully that isnt it. Have the injectors possibly been contaminated to where I should just replace them?
Truck cranks wont start. Fuses and relays good, New motorcraft; IPR, ICP with pigtails, New T500 hpop, New 180/80 Injectors, Push rods, 910 valve springs, Mellings lpop. Motorcraft oil cooler.
Reservoir full, oil new 15-40w Amsoil, Rails full, Fuel bowl full and clean, HPOP drive gear rechecked and torqued.
RPM 180
Temp oil 88*
ICP duty cycle koeo 14.8, crank 64.85
ICP pressure 250 -450psi
ICP voltage .27-.50
Manual gauge on oil rail 250 -450psi when cranking
Inj pulse width .0005,
Buzz test was good
Vref 5v all sensors. 12v at IPR w/koeo
Fuel pressure 58psi
Air test hpop hear no leaks with stethoscope.
DTC codes: P1280, P0380
Also put straight edge across injectors to double check they were seated.
2000 ford f150 4.6 auto. Will spin over but won't start. checked coil for fire, no fire. Check fuel rail for fuel, no fuel. No theft light flashing and no check engine light on. Has new battery and plenty of fuel in tank. Started fine yesterday but not today.
View 5 RepliesI just started to notice that the head lights no longer turn on when it gets dark, they are on all the time. Where is the sensor that I need to replace. Is it the black domed piece in the center of the dash board. Which is near the heat vent. I also need the part number so that I can order the part and get it replaced.
View 4 Replies