Silverado :: Sound Of Piston Slap At Warm Idle
Jan 12, 2014
I just turned 210,000 miles on my 2003 Silverado, and I have started to notice what sounds like piston slap when at warm idle. When I start the truck in the morning, it sounds fine. But once the engine warms up, then I hear the noise. I'll rev the engine up to 2000-3000 rpms for a couple seconds, then let it idle, and the noise is gone. But 10-20 seconds later, it slowly comes back. I do not hear the noise at all when driving the truck. I tried SeaFoaming the engine through the throttle body and the brake booster vacuum line thinking it was carbon build up, but this did not fix the issue. However I may have eradicated the entire mosquito population!!
I've read that piston slap on these trucks only happens during a cold start. This is not the case with my truck. But am I still hearing piston slap.
2003 Silverado W/T 4.8L V8
View 7 Replies
Advertisement
2007/ES350.
I got this car in december 2014 and yes, there was this well known piston slap noise on cold mornings.
The dealer where the car has been maintained did an oil change at 54 400 miles and they added bulk oil 0W-20. I think that's a pretty thin oil for this engine, also the manual recommends 5w30.
So I bought a box of Amsoil 5w-30 Signature Series, the OEM filter and did an oil change.I could immediately tell the difference, the piston slap started to fade and the MPG went up. They say that this oil will improve the fuel consumption, and that's true.
But the most important thing is that piston slap noise started to fade immediately and now after 2500 miles there's around 10% of the piston slap noise. The engine is smooth as silk and I'm really happy with the result.
View 3 Replies
A friend from work is having what he says is piston slap, but only under a load. I feel it could be the timing set since it's never been changed and at least 160k miles. Odometer quit working at least 5 years ago. Other than that, motor runs great. 1997 F150 4.6....
View 4 Replies
Just purchased 2015 Camry LE. While taking delivery, I noticed a subtle piston slap that started shortly after the engine started and completely went away after driving the car for about 10 minutes. Most people would not consider it an issue, but I am an engineer working with large industrial engines all the time so it was a concern. I asked to drive another Camry on the lot and it had the same issue. The service manager came out and said that this slap is normal and all 2012 - 2015 Camry with 2AR-FE engine do this. I bought the car anyway since I loved the overall design, ride quality and the features, but the piston slap keeps bothering me.
2012-2015 Camry equipped with 2AR-FE 2.5L engine? In order to check you have to start the cold engine and wait for the RPMs to drop to around 900 which will take 1-2 min. Put your ear in front of the radiator and listed to the subtle metallic tapping noise of the pistons rocking and slapping the bore walls. The noise will last for about 10 minutes until the pistons expand and close the excess gap between them and the bore.
View 14 Replies
My 2005 with 160k miles has engine noise when cold.
I talked to a couple specialists who said it could be valve noise another said valve noise would not abate when the engine warmed up. He suspected piston slap. A valve adjustment is pricey and the local independents are afraid to touch it given the complexity and needed shim packs. If it is piston slap I would be disappointed after spending a pile of dough to still have the same noise.
Have I missed a possible cause?
View 6 Replies
I have a loud noise coming from the passenger side of the engine, on my 2014 Santa Fe Sport 2,4 with less than 6000 km L. My buddy said it was a lifter. Last night, my brother-in- law, a qualified mechanic, who is the fixed operations manager at a Hyundai dealership said it is ''piston slap'' and that they had already changed two engines this year for this.
I had the mechanic listen to the noise 2 weeks ago when in for my first oil change but Blondie said it was the fuel injection system...
View 4 Replies
My girlfriend has a 2001 Subaru Forester. She just had a new clutch installed. When she got it back there is a chirping sound coming from around the slave piston assembly. The mechanic has worked on it several times and he can't figure out what is causing the noise. I can make the chirping start or stop by moving the fork on back of the slave piston but can't figure out why it is making this noise?
View 4 Replies
2006 Chevy 2500 Silverado heater blows hot on driver's side and cold on passenger side. None of the controls change the temp. on the passenger side.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2003 Subaru Forester XS, bought it new, has almost 100,000 miles. Only take it to the dealer. Regular oil changes, and routine maintenance. Around 65-70,000 miles, I began to hear a sound like a playing card against a bicycle wheel in colder temps only. Dealer called it 'piston clatter' and not to worry about it. So I didn't. Over the years it has become a year around sound, even worse in colder temps. I've been afraid to drive it out of town on the interstate or highways because at times the engine sounds as if it's going to jump out of the car. I wrote to Subaru corporate, only to be referred back to the dealer, who again, will only tell me it's 'piston clatter'. I have used fuel additives, and a tank of premium every now and then. Still makes the same sound.
View 5 Replies
Have a 1992 5.7 litre silverado with a screeching noise from the crankshaft pulley when engine is warm and idling. Noise goes away when engine is accelerated. Noise remains on crank pulley when serpentine belt is off pulleys. Did replace tensioner pulley, alternator, and idler pulley. No noise noted when started cold. Serpentine belt is only weeks old no signs of damage. No rough idle or performance changes noted just a annoying noise similar to a turbo but only when no torque is applied.
View 1 Replies
I have a 99 silverado with the 4.8 w/186k on the clock. I am having an issue with rough idle and hesitation on cold start up. Once the truck warms up the idle and hesitation go away. I have replaced the PCV valve hoping this fixed it, but it did not. I have also cleaned the TB and the MAF.
View 2 Replies
2002 HD 2500 6.0 - Pulled into Wal-Mart, everything was fine. Came out 20 min later, started right up, but felt like it stalled, it was actually still running, (barely). Shut off, restarted, same. Used pedal to bump idle up to normal 500-600 RPM, it was smooth, no misfire or roughness. Drove home, approx 5 miles, and had to keep the idle up at every stop.
Could be IAC? How can I test it/What checks can I do in the darkness, by flashlight? No garage, but I do have tools, and basic test light, dmm, etc. First thought was fuel pressure, but it runs fine going down the road.
View 3 Replies
My Prius has been sitting in the fridged weather in my driveway. It's Tuesday and the temperature is currently 18F. The last time I drove this car was two days ago on Sunday.
I started it up a few minute ago and heard a HORRIBLE knock or slap from the engine bay. It alarmed me to the point where I wanted to run in and grab my camera but I tried listening to understand what it could be. At first I thought it might be a belt came loose and was whipping around hitting the components but it went away after about 30-40 seconds. It was so loud that I thought the neighbor two doors down who was shoveling snow could hear it.
I will let it sit overnight and will definitely capture this on video in the morning. I have a feeling the noise will be back.
View 6 Replies
I've noticed that my Ex has an odd noise when driving over minor bumps like repaired potholes. It doesn't do it over larger bumps. Hard to describe, but it's like a "slap-back" after hitting the bump. Sounds like a dull thud that's apparently coming from the right front. Sounds like the wheel is hitting the bump twice.
Anyhow, after working underneath...and checking for things that are loose, worn, etc...I found nothing. The truck has just under 41,000 miles. The only thing that seemed to be a bit off was the right front shock. I pulled them all while painting/cleaning up...and of course, each one expanded immediately. This one didn't. Once it was compressed fully..it did expand but not as quickly as the others. (In order to get back on the road, I put it back.)
So, before I start throwing parts at this truck. My initial thought is that this one shock is weak and isn't keeping the front wheel planted.
All that being said, I could swap the shocks side to side and see if the noise moves. But....it's difficult to move gas shocks around so if it's thought that shocks could be the case..I'd just put new ones on. (Any recommendation?)
View 8 Replies
I have a 2003 silverado with a 4.8 engine. i bought the truck in the summer of 2010. no problems in the winter of 2010. ran great all year in 2011, then my block heater shorted out in the winter of 2011, so i wasn't able to plug the truck in.
We get some cold nights up her in alberta, but anything below -10c the truck would idle surge and stall, would do this about 4 times in a row then it would just surge a few times but stay running.
I had a buddy that's a gm drive ability tech take the truck and do a tone of updates for the throttle body and to correct idle surge and some other drive ability related stuff. i cleaned the maf, map and tps as well as the throttle plates. replaced plugs, wires, air filter and fuel filter. all this and it was still doing it, but it had to be really cold to stall.
wasn't able to replace the block heater till this summer. but now that its getting colder and dropping below -10c at night the truck is starting to idle surge when i start it up in the morning.
View 3 Replies
I bought my second used 2007 chevy silverado 2500hd classic LT 6.6l diesel and the cruise control and elevated idle wont work. have done tons of reserch. And have found nothing useful to my situation. have found everything from a simple fuse to a module which is expensive. i have checked that all my brake lights work, have checked all fuses and even bought a new column switch for the cruise control. That didn't fix it.
I am thinking the brake switch or possibly something with the trailer whirring might be shorted or installed incorrectly.the reason i think it has something to do with the brakes is it is a common denominator between the cruise control and the elevated idle. if elevated idle is on and you touch the brake pedal at all it shuts off and idles normal on a working system. which i know from my previous identical truck. the brakes also shut off the cruise if touched at all. i have had a hell of a time trying to figure this out.
View 1 Replies
I just bought this used truck, 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 extended cab. I noticed some shaking while in idle when I got it back home. The check engine light came on a day or two later, and I recently had a diagnostic test ran on it at the local AutoZone. It came up that I had a P0135 o2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) malfunction and a P0101 Mass Air Flow Sensor signal performance issue. The check engine light comes and goes. I stopped by Walmart for about 10 or 15 minutes and when I got back into the truck, the issues reoccurred. For about a minute, the check engine light actually started blinking! And then went away and started running normal again. Its upper confusing. I bought some MAF cleaner to use on it tomorrow and figured that wouldn't definitely clear up my issues, but I'm still wondering if the MAF sensor is enough to warrant the CEL to blink like that?!
View 6 Replies
I start my truck up today and there is no sound from either door speakers. No crackle, hum, or nothing. Tweeters work great, extended cab speakers work fine. I read in another forum that it could be due to rain. It did rain all night. How can I protect future speakers?
I have 2007 Extended cab z71.
View 3 Replies
On my 1999 Chevy Silverado Z71, a gurgling water sound is present everytime I accelerate. Are there any other Chevy owners that have had this same problem? If so, how was it resolved?
View 14 Replies
Ok, I have a noise, rattle, clunk that is bothering the heck out of me. I know it is not the famous clunk from the yoke or the pads missing on the leaf springs. I have even removed the Tailgate thinking that was the issue, but no it was not.
When driving on gravel roads or if I hit small bumps in the road I hear the noise and it sounds like it is coming from underneath and towards the rear of the truck. It is hard to explain the sound, but it almost sounds as if there was something loose and the metal is hitting again the frame?? I have 126000 miles on it, so I figured I would replace the shocks, they needed it and that did not work, it is still there.
Now the twist, when the temp outside gets below 60 the noise starts to fade away or I have to run over a bigger bump to hear it, and below 40 it almost does not exist. Now the hotter it gets out, the more I hear it and during the summer months it is really annoying. I have also looked underneath and could not find anything that looked cracked, broke or loose.
View 3 Replies
So I recently bought a 2010 Chevy Silverado LTZ with 31,000 miles (5.3l engine). After having the truck a few days, I have noticed a couple of problems ...
1) I have noticed there is a rough idle in the passenger seat while the truck is in drive. Once the truck is started and driven about 5 minutes, once you come to a complete stop in drive (ex. stop light) a rough idle over takes the truck. You can feel this idle a lot more in the passenger seat than in the driver seat. The RPM gauge also fluctuates during the rattle.
2) At night my the headlights flicker randomly, on and off very quickly.
3) In the morning when I start the truck and drive it a bit, I hear a rattle which sounds like it is coming from the front right of the truck. Bumps do not trigger this rattle, which usually only lasts a couple seconds. I usually hear the rattle between 1,000 and 1,200 rpms.
I have taken the truck into the shop 2 times to get these items fixed, and they said they cannot feel a rough idle.
View 1 Replies
