Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2008 GLS - Light Knocking Noise When Car Is Idling
Oct 5, 2016
I didn't know my car was low on oil and the oil light never came on. The car has been working flawlessly till I got home and I heard a really weird knocking noise and it's a light knocking noise when the car is idling but when I press the gas pedal the noise becomes louder. The noise sounds like its internal it's coming from behind the engine near the exhaust manifold where the spark plugs are located. I have changed the spark plugs and drained and added new oil into the car but that still didn't fix the issue. The car has about 129,625 miles on it and is in mint condition buying a new engine would be pointless knowing that the value of the new engine is basically the value of buying another used car.
Car: Hyundai Sonata 2008 GLS 2.4l
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I was driving this morning after doing a brake job (nothing to do with the problem, just anger coming out) made it about 10 kms and noticed when i took my foot off the accelerator, the heater fan powered down a bit, and back up when I gave it gas...noticed a knocking sound from the engine...pulled into a gas station and put it in park. After a hard time idling, it cut out. I started it again and the idle was not good at all. kept cutting out. Got it going and made it home with the same sort of power issue. Tried to start it a couple times and same issue with the idle. Sputtering quite a bit and noticed quite a bit of exhaust coming out. When I backed it out of the garage, I noticed a small puddle of oil.
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I have a 2007 elantra. I drove it for a while, then my ma needed a car (her tercel was a little unsafe) so I traded her. She loves the car, but as sometimes is the case, her dealer is not very nice. She has a severe side to side knocking noise in the steering- can be easily duplicated by sitting with the car idling and turning the wheel back and forth, even a little. Doesn't correspond with driving over bumps unless the wheel is inadvertently turned by the bump. If the suspension is unloaded (front wheels off the ground), noise disappears. No EPS lights, no codes in any system.
Listened with a stethoscope inside the car- not that loud through column within car. Inner and outer tie rods are tight, noise is not heard loudly with stethoscope through struts, upper mounts, lower arms. Under the car with loaded suspension (rhino ramps), noise is deafening in the rack, with a stethoscope. Dealer told her it needs a steering rack, I definitely understand why they would say that as the noise is clearly audible through the aluminum housing directly below the entrance of the column shaft into the rack. Only TSB I found was for a worm shaft flexible coupling, but the TSB says this is bump related.
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2008 2.4 GLS auto, 64000 miles
Only taken this car on 2 highway road trips. 2 years ago = 34mpg on 900 mile trip (@36000 miles), last week = 31 mpg, EXACT same trip, this time in December, last time in September. Other difference - slightly perceptible tick noticeable if I stand in front of car idling.
Bought July 2009 (almost 24 months old) @ 32000 miles, oil changes every 3000 miles since, tranny fluid at 60000.
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Few days ago I noticed the noise coming from the engine.
Went to dealership. They removed the oil pan and found metal shavings there .The car has 90,000 miles. They will put a new short block (will be covered by warranty ).
Since they basicaly will disassemble the whole engine, I thought to ask them to replace also drive belts, timing chain tensioner, not sure if the short block comes with the water pump , will ask them . W
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I have a 2006 Sonata GL, 2.4L, manual transmission, with about 130K miles. It has recently developed a knocking noise. The noise sounds metallic.
Some data: timing chain, guides, tensioner are all new, the noise is not coming from there.
Compression tests on the 4 cylinders came back with 200, 200, 180, and 200 psi readings. Tests were performed 3 different times, same gauge, all numbers came back the same.
The noise comes on only under acceleration (gas is supplied), and even then it's not consistent. For example, accelerating at 2500 rpm will make the noise, but the noise will go away at, say, 3000 rpm, while accelerating. Then again, the same thing can happen at 3200 rpm: accelerating will cause the noise, but up to a point, beyond which the noise goes away.The noise is not present at idle. I can always make the noise heard, just not consistently at the same rpm range.
I ran the engine with one spark plug disconnected at a time: the noise goes away when the #3 cylinder spark is disconnected.
Opinions vary: wrist pin, piston slap, rod bearing, etc.
Any tests I could run to narrow the problem? It has been difficult to pinpoint where the noise is coming from with a stethoscope...
Oil changes have been very regular (3.5K), using Mobil 1. Nevertheless, it has been burning oil.
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My 2006 Sonata has the 3.3L V6. It's been remarkably trouble free for over 201000 miles now, but has recently started having a "bucking" issue. It first it was pretty subtle. My wife noticed it too, and we thought maybe we were causing it. It progressively got stronger, and I started noticing some noise when idling with the window down. Also the check engine light started coming on. I took it to the dealer. They said the cam position sensor was bad. The noise was caused by something else, which they fixed.
To make a long story short, the car is now back at the dealership for the third time in the last few weeks. It will run great for a while, then suddenly start "bucking". The other day it died on me in heavy traffic. Fortunately I was close to the dealership so I took it back over there (second time). I got it back Monday of this week. It ran great on the drive home. Tuesday morning the bucking started before I could even get out of the driveway, so I drove my truck to work. Today (Wednesday) I drove it back to the shop. It ran fine the entire way. Check engine light is back on.
I have really enjoyed this car. Had it for about 8 years now. Full Synthetic oil every 5000 miles and a filter. I had really hoped to turn over 300,000 with it.
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I replaced my struts and shocks a few weeks ago and i installed lowering springs H&R. Yesterday i started hearing this knocking thumping noise coming from the right front of the car me and my uncle took the wheel off today and looked around and everything was nice and tight we proceed to both push down on the right corner of the car to have it bounce up and down and we heard the same knocking sound coming from the right front area it sounds almost as if the strut blew out in the front right would the symptoms i described concur with the front strut being blown out, and on a side note the struts are only a few weeks old is this even possible since the struts are so new? I do have 20" rims on the car with low profile tires could i have hit a pothole hard enough to cause the strut to blow out? Iam planning on taking a trip to the dealer tomorrow and have them check it out.
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My 2009 Sonata 2.4l Sonata has been making a loud knocking noise when it is cold, but it will fade to almost nothing after it warms up. I tried to make a sound clip of the noise, but it was so distorted that I could not even make out the noise on the video.
For some strange reason the noise matches the skipping problem I have been complaining about since the beginning. Yea it's still there. It sounds like it is in the valve system, not the lower end. It leads me to believe it's coming from the valve clearance/ camshaft area.
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It's a 2006 hyundai sonata LX.
Now Is it anything I should worry about? Car has 72000 on it. Always used synthetic Mobil 1 5w 30.
This is on a completely cold start up, 30 degrees outside. Only makes the noise until car warms up. Anything I can do to prevent this? Or is it not something to worry about? Should I just let the car warm up a little before I drive it?
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2006 Sonata 2.4 GLS. My car has done 60000 miles and has developed a creaking/knocking (metal on metal clunk) sound at the left rear. it is only noticeable at low speeds when accelerating and decelerating in stop start traffic.
It is not the shock as I have removed the shock and driven the car and the noise is still there, I have also looked at all the bushes and nothing is obvious. I have also checked tightness of all bolts/nuts.
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I have a 2010 Sonata V6 that I bought new. It has a little less than 50K on it. I tried to start it today and it made a terrible noise then died seconds later. I popped the hood and then started it again and the engine was shaking violently in the engine compartment and making a terrible knocking noise. I had driven it 12 hours earlier and it ran fine. I called a tow truck and had it taken to the dealer but if I know my dealer, since it is Sunday they probably wont get to it until Tuesday. Also, this car has had the signature V6 valve cover leak that has been fixed 3 times. I noticed it was leaking again about a month ago and I have just been checking the oil and adding it as it needs it. I dont think the engine ran out of oil because I checked it before the tow truck came and it was between low and full.
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My truck is idling terribly and knocks while doing so, little info is
The truck has 170k miles, I just bought it about two months ago and it was running perfect, drove it to the beach two or three times (4 hour drive) no problems whatsoever. Two weeks ago I noticed it start rocking a bit at idle ONLY when warm, check engine light came on so I ran the code and it said the Cam shaft positioning sensor was bad so I replaced both of those, then the next code I got was for the vct solenoids, replaced both of those and the problem is still persisting. It is odd to me in the fact that when its cold, it runs flawlessly, no problem accelerating/idling/maintaining speed/smoke nothing at all.
As soon as it gets warm it will still do everything flawlessly EXCEPT idle. the idle rpm is around 300-400 and it rocks and knocks terribly.. If i am stopped and I apply some throttle in park or nuetral, just enough to get the rpm up to around 800-900, its perfectly fine. no more rocking no more knocking but as soon as i let my foot off the gas it goes right back to feeling like its going to fly out from underneath the hood.
So my question is why is this? What on earth is going on here? and how do I fix it? And why is there not a manual idle control. Ford place said there was likely damage to the head and recommended a full engine replacement.
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Everything about my '08 2.7l Santa Fe seems/drives fine, but it always has a light clicking noise when idling and maybe even at higher revs. Is a little bit of this clicking normal or does the valve clearance need to be inspected and/or adjusted?
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Not long had my R and its making this noise but from the video need to know where the noise is coming from?
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I just bought my 2009 toyota avalon and i wanted to know if it was normal for a knocking noise when the car is on and idling. Car has 46k on it. What a normal idling avalon sounds like?
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I have a 2006 lexus gs300 rwd and my check engine light came on the code P0021 and the check VSC light is on as well and a knocking noise i checked my engine level and seems to be fine but thats just because im always adding oil since its burning a quart every 500 miles which is a lot so whats going on here? Also my idle seems to drop when at a light any one know about recalls on these cars?
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I have an '08 GLS and I've been hearing a "pop" noise coming from the rear passenger wheel well when I am braking. It only happens once per braking episode and usually if I am applying medium brake pressure, i.e. slowing from >25 mph. What this might be and is it normal?
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I have a Sonata 2008 model which has done only 40K miles so far. All of a sudden i got the engine management light on and i scanned it in the garage. They are saying the fault is with EGR Valve and it needs to be replaced. They reset it and now the light is not ON.
Could it just be a glitch or is it really a problem with EGR valve. I am really confused on what to do, because when i got a second opinion from a local garage they said there is no need to replace - simply a clean would do....
2 days after the engine light reset, when i took the car off the park i suddenly got a grinding noise from the front of the car and i switched if off and re-started and the noise went away..not sure whether this could be linked with EGR valve or was it a simple gear slip.
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I recently bought a used 2008 Hyundai Sonata Limited. I've been driving it for about 2 weeks now without any problems. I just took it out tonight for a drive and noticed the door open light was on, but not all the way. Non of the doors were open, and when they were the light turn on all the way.
I just turned the car off and the light is still on (dim). What this might be and what I could do to fix it?
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I have a 2008 Sonata. Yesterday the airbag light came on for no reason.
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