Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2008 Stops While Driving On Busy Street
Jan 10, 2016
I'm having 2008 Sonata Limited model with 60k miles. i was on a busy street when my 08 Sonata died and i had to coast into a parking lot put it in neutral and restart my car. This is happening two or three times per week. I reported this issue to nearest hyundai dealership and they are not able to figure out this problem. Again this week I am taking this car to them to find out the root cause. What it could be?. Right now I'm kind of scare to take this car to outside.
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So today my car has started having this issue I just can't figure out. Twice while I was driving down the road my car suddenly acted like it was going to stall, the dummy lights all went off, the AC and radio both shut off, and the clock reset. I cleaned the terminals and checked the codes but nothing came up and it happened one more time.
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I have a 2008 Sonata Diesel version, and I am getting the engine management light on. All the times i have scanned it, it says - Insufficient air flow to EGR Valve. This gets automatically reset in a day. Now the weird thing - This is happening only if I drive in and around Heathrow airport I have done 100s of miles elsewhere and this problem never occurs. But if I just drive 20 miles to Heathrow, my engine management light always comes on which resets in a day.
I am really confused on what is happening here.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata Limited.
I recently noticed a burnt rubber smell after driving on some winding roads where I live. It's only coming from one side of the car. So I had it in for an oil change and tire rotation on Saturday and they told me the following:
My front brakes were 13. My left rear (5) is wearing harder than my right rear (10). Could this be a caliper issue? Or maybe something is just stuck? Maybe take off the tires and lube or grease things up. There aren't any recalls other than a stop lamp switch.
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About a year ago I was driving along and ran into some traffic. A few minutes later I noticed the AC stopped working, (it was about 85F out), and then I noticed that the engine temp was getting much warmer. Had never seen this before. The car had about 70k miles on it.
Turned on the heater and was able to get the engine temp down. Immediately took it to my local mechanic, who checked that the compressor was running, but was unwilling to tackle this diagnosis and recommended I take it to the dealer.
Took it to the dealer the next day and they diagnosed a bad compressor which they replaced for $1200. However the very next day after I picked it up the very same thing happened. Engine overheating and the AC turns off.
Pretty disappointed in this - I expected the dealer to be able to fix this, especially for $1200. So I left it with them for a week, and still they were not able to diagnose or duplicate the problem. Asked me to come in when it is happening, but since they are about 30 minutes away and it only happens once in a while I gave up on that.
However, ever since then it will occasionally have the same issue. I can usually resolve it by parking for a while, or by turning on the heater for a while. The AC does work most of the time, but of course this problem usually occurs only on very hot days.
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My 2006 Sonata has 63K miles and today started jerking (Hunting) after about 10 miles. Here is what I know. It starts on a level run and disappears when on an incline, but as soon as the crest is reached, and on the downside, it starts hunting again. When it is jerking, around 55 to 60 mph, I switch the transmission lever to Autostick and it stops, back into drive again and it starts again. This is so repeatable there has to be a connection. EVERY time I switch to Autostick the jerking stops, end when I put it back into drive, it starts again. The jerking is severe enough that it is easily detectable. It appears that when the transmission is under load, like going uphill, the jerking stops.
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I started having an issue when the weather changed here on the East this weekend. When I start my car in the morning the engine knocks for about 30 seconds and then stops. I also recently got an oil change at some local mechanic shop and wondered if that might be the issue. I checked the oil and it was stellar this morning but I'm not sure what kind they put in there. I would assume it's the required type.
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I have one Hyundai Accent 1.4 from 2006 gasoline with 61.000 km. I have a strange problem. Sometimes the engine car stop while driving. This problem appear when i change from 5 to 4 or from 4 to 3 with ac on. Without ac the problem not appear. If i try to start engine again he start without problem. No error storage in ECU. I replace gasoline pump but the problem appear again.
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While driving my 2009 Camry the abs light and break light pop on and the speedometer stops working as well as the tacomitor and the odomitor stops ticking off miles as well, also the ac fan will run but the compressor stops.
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Recently my wife took her car to work. While driving on the highway the car all of a sudden quit responding to pushing on the gas. As if the pedal had no affect at all. The electrical was still in tact as my wife pulled off to the side of the road and turned the car off. Before I could reach her to pick her up she had started it again and it started right up no hesitation at all. Upon dropping her off at work I came back and it started right away and I drove it to her work and she then drove it home at the end of the day with not problems. It sat in our garage for a few days and I decided to take it out to see what happens for myself. I drove it for a full day stated right up every time and it wasn't until the second day I drove it around that it did the same thing to me. Gas pedal had not response. All electrical seemed operational, still had power steering and the dash was lit. I pulled over then waited a few minutes and it fired right up and I was on my way. Wondered if its the fuel pump and how I could test that out. As I said is starts right up every time with no hesitation. Also I have fuel pressure tested it and it shows a 60 the during idle.
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Have a 2009 Limited with 14,500 miles. After driving an hour at 75 MPH on interstate on a hot day, the car died. The immobilizer warning light came on, and I coasted to a stop. Waited a couple minutes, the car started right up, ran fine. Went a few miles, and car died again. This time check engine light also came on. After couple more times, car towed to dealer. No problem apparent at dealer. 4 codes were active - all HO2S Signal Stuck Lean. Dealer called Hyundai tech and were told to check gas quality and replace all ground bolts and sand paint at contact. Gas was O.K. Took for 42 mile test drive, no problem. I drove home on interstate and after an hour same thing happened. Obviously not a ground problem. Now running fine and at my local Hyundai dealer.
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After driving my 2007 sonata for around 10 minutes, there is a very high pitched squealing sound that is intermittent and stops when the brakes are tapped. I was told it may be due to a "brake sensor"??
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I have a Canadian imported vehicle that had the Driving lights on all the time. I turned off the DRL with the VAG with no issues. The last few months tho, the daylight sensor (which I believe is at the base of the windshield) has been very sensitive to street lamps and turns my headlamps off briefly. I'm curious if I can VAG this out as well?
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I recently (3/3/14) purchased a 2011 Sonata Limited 2.0 with only 6750 miles. I've owned it for 3 weeks and put 2000 miles on it. So far, lots to say good about it but one very disturbing quirk- on occasion, when accelerating from a stop in traffic or when entering moving traffic from a side street or driveway, there is a sudden loss of power. This power loss lasts from about one second to as long as 3-4 seconds before the engine recovers and the car resumes normal acceleration. I've taken it to my local Hyundai dealership twice with this complaint, but the defect is intermittent (technician was unable to duplicate it at the time) and there is no defect code to be found.
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I have a 95 chevy silverado. 305 with an automatic transmission. I was driving down the street at about 30mph when the power went out on me.
The engine stayed on and all lights stayed on. I could rev the engine but the truck wouldn't move.
I then had a friend tow to my house and i let it sit overnight trying to decide what to do next.
The next day I went out and started it and it and was able to drive it again for a short distance at low speed and then it did the same thing again.
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About a month ago, I was driving 50 mph in my 06 screw on a dirt road. There was an old wood bridge that was not as flush as I was expecting. Jolted the truck pretty good but it kept on trucking. However, a few seconds after the jolt, the power to the AC cut out. All I had to do was turn the AC to "off" then back on and it'd start working fine. Over the last month, the power randomly cuts out, but will go back on after I switch to "off" then back on. It's happened maybe 3 or 4 times since The Big Jolt.
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Wife was driving 2008 w/70k miles, powered off completely in middle of street, coasted into parking lot. No warnings or lights on dash. Unable to shift to park. Won't power on to acc mode even. Interior lights etc work fine. Battery measures 13.6, 14.2 at front terminals? Slight burning smell from engine compartment possibly right side. Disconnected battery for hard reboot, no change. Unable to read codes as won't power on.
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My brother's 5.4 has been rough idling and dying at stops and in reverse for a few weeks now. Today it threw a code and he finally had me look at it and it's a P0345 code. I was thinking cam phasers possibly, but I didn't think that would cause a code to throw. Also, all I hear about cam phasers is that it makes the truck sound like a diesel, but his when it's about to die sounds like the engine is about to drop out the bottom of the engine bay. Really rough, REALLY loud knocking, etc... What we should be looking at replacing to get this thing back into shape?
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Last week we had heavy rain and our streets in the gulf are not equipped to handle heavy rain or rain at all !! Anyway I found myself when getting back from work in the middle of high water like 30 cm for 50 meters and all the cars were driving through so I had to do this or else stuck.
Anyway I drove successfully but next day I saw the red light for airbag, yesterday i took it to the mechanical he has a small all cars scan tool I told him the story he told me could be the computer damaged and after he plugged the scanner he told me the same as he could not enter the system i guess.
could be the computer be the issue?
Or is it only the module for the airbags is damaged and for other parts it is okay as only the airbag light is on.
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I've got a 2006 f250 with 160,000 miles, trans was rebuilt by previous owner about 10,000 miles ago. The tow/haul light started blinking yesterday, only blinks for first couple of minutes of driving and then stops. Service engine light popped on today as well. Won't have access to a code reader until tomorrow, but looking for some preliminary info...
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My Hyundai Sonata 2008 vibrates when driving at 40 km/h. Steering wheel doesn't shake, only car vibrates. And this happens regardless of pressing gas pedal or not. Front wheels are balanced(as the car is front wheel drive) yesterday but no success.
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