Sonata NF (2006-10) :: P0171 Code And High Emissions Output
Apr 17, 2015
Have got a 2006 Azera 3.3 (same engine as Sonata and have had no luck in the Azera section) which is showing Check Engine Light and P0171 code. Have cleared it but it soon returns and emissions are very high. I have tried with my limited knowledge to check the live data via a scanner but everything seems OK.
I've cleaned the MAF sensor but I'm thinking of replacing it but don't want to do this unnecessarily!
Is there anything else I could be checking? Car drives OK and there's nothing obvious symptom wise other than the emissions and the CEL.
View 30 Replies
Advertisement
Have got a Azera 3.3 which is showing P0171 CEL. Have cleared it but it soon returns and emissions are well out. Have tried with my limited knowledge to check the live data via a scanner but everything seems OK.
I've cleaned the MAF sensor but I'm thinking of replacing it but don't want to do this unnecessarily!
Is there anything else I could be checking? Car drives OK and there's nothing obvious symptom wise other than the emissions and the CEL.
View 2 Replies
What difficulties might I run into on switching in the HO alternator. Is it that hard to get the stock alt out/putting the serpentine belt back on once i get the HO alt in?
Any pictures or videos to make this job easier? The stock alt almost looks impossible to get out unless i remove the entire radiator.. Should I just bring it to a shop and have them install it?
View 5 Replies
I've been chasing this P0171 code for over a year now. STFT is normal plus minus 5 but LTFT won't go below 21.1%. At highway speeds the lowest the LTFT will go is 10-15% then goes back up to 21.1% at idle.
Things I've done:-
- New the air intake gasket to the Orange one
- Cleaned the MAF sensor
- New PCV
- Smoke test reveal nothing (vacuum is at 21-24 in-Hg) (did not smoke test the exhaust yet)
- Changed to used fuel pump. Funny thing here is that now when I shift the car to park the STFT steady increases to 25%. The old fuel pump never done this. But the car feels like it has more power now.
- New gas cap
- Cleaned TB
- Cleaned fuel injectors and flow tested
- New A/F sensor and downstream O2 sensor
All parts were either genuine Toyota parts or OEM Denso. My next course of action is to buy a new Denso fuel pump or replace the ignition coil pack.
View 12 Replies
I have a problem with my sonata NF 2006 the check engine light turn on like 2 days ago and give me the p2128 code say Accelerator pedal Position Circuit - High Input something like that i cheek all the cable off the throttle body to the ecu and i don't see any cable broken how I can check the accelerator pedal sensor? I see in one page a texting the sensor whit a multi miter but was for santa fe and the cable don't have the same colors . I need the accelerator pedal cable diagram and i don't have it ....
View 2 Replies
I just purchased my 2006 Passat 2.0T FSI and she just broke 100,000 miles.
So yesterday my car popped the P0171 code, STOP Low Coolant light flashing, and Tire pressure very low, so today i will be removing my cold air intake and forge diverter valve adapter and bring her to the dealer for warrenty work. I will keep this thread updated with whats wrong with her.
Tire Pressure Low: all tires looked fine.
View 19 Replies
My accent 2006 has the check engine code p0171. AT mornings I have to start the car like 5 times until it revs up and do not stall. Also when the car is running, If I press the gas too much it starts misfiring and have really slow acceleration. I have already change the 02 Sensor, spark plugs, TPS and maf sensor, and PSV valve, cleaner the throttle. I really don't know what else to look for.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2006 Ford Ranger with the 3.0L v6. The check engine light came on and the code it is blowing is a P0171. It runs rough at idle or when I let off the accelerator and "fine" at speed.
The code told me to check/clean the MAF which I have done. Next on the list that I saw was the PCV valve. I disconnected the electrical to it and then disconnected the hose. Some oil poured out of it... not a lot but some... The valve still seems free, it clicks when I rotate/shake it and I can blow through it (I know, highly scientific). I can replace this (if I can find it, Napa and Advanced Auto don't have a part that looks like it...) but I'm wondering what else could be wrong.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer LS/LT 4.2 liter 2wd. I have been trying to get it smoged, but can't clear the code. P0171 - Lean Bank 1.
I've been having a parts throwing contest with it, but it has been winning and my wallet is losing.
I have changed the air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, changed both O2 sensors, changed the secondary air valve and relay. I've done the carb cleaner spray test around the intake and vacuum lines, with no spikes in RPM.
Most recent try was a couple bottles of Techron concentrate with premium chevron gas.(still waiting to see if the code hits again)
Next steps are checking the intake bolts(to see if they are torqued) and intake gaskets, check for exhaust leaks at the exhaust manifold, and checking the MAP sensor.
Freeze frame data from the most recent hit on the code is below.
***Fuel system 1 - CL***Fuel system 2 - NA***Calc Load(%) - 30.2***ECT(deg c) - 48***STFT B1(%) - 3.9***LTFT B1(%) - 22.7***MAP(kPa) - 33***Eng RPM - 809***Veh speed(km/h) - 0***Spark Adv (deg) - 10.5***IAT(deg c) - 20***MAF (G/s) - 5.82***TPS(%) - 15.3***Air status - NA.
View 7 Replies
So I recently got APR stage 1 low output (93 octane v1.2) installed and loving it so far on my '15 GTI. I went with the low output tune after hearing many clutch slipping issues and since this is my daily driver and i need reliability, didn't want to risk it too much. BUT... I am starting to wonder about the regular output. Going low to high, worth it? Seems like a 20-29 hp difference would be a lot. Have the stage 1 regular tune and no clutch slipping issues?
View 24 Replies
I decided to change out my alternator to a high output. After researching I've decided to go with a DC Power...I'm planning more lights and a power inverter. Any recommendation on which one? I don't care what it cost just don't want to over do it, can too many amps hurt anything? Also, on my previous EX I did the big 3 upgrade. Is it the same on a 2 battery setup?
View 14 Replies
Bought a Powermaster 250amp alternator for my '05 V10. Says I need to upgrade my power and ground wires to 4 gauge with fuse on power cable. I don't really run too many accessories other than HID heads and fogs and 2 DVD screens for the boys.
Do do I really need to upgrade my wiring? Can't imagine I'm pulling much more amperage than stock (130amp on my truck).
View 6 Replies
My Honda CRX, 1989 failed the NJ Inspections for very high Emissions. The engine has 200,000 miles. I had a lot of repairs done on it: new majorrnator, new oil pan cover, new engine gasket, new radiator, new axels. brakes, new alternator. catalytic converter, muffler. Unfortunately, now it failed for very high emissions. I added the Diesel and Car Cleaner, but did not work. what can I do to fix the car so it will pass the Emissions Test? what can be wrong with it, and will it cost me a lot of money. Is it worth trying to cure it or should I retire it, and sell it?I am on a very tight budget, and am depending on this car for my transportation.
View 11 Replies
I have a 07 Sonata V6 that misses only when warmed up, runs fine when cold. code p0301 for cylinder one misfire, I have replaced the plug, coil and injector for cylinder one and still the same. idles and runs perfect when cold, dead miss on number one cylinder when warmed up.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2001 5.4 4x4 supercrew with 300,000 miles.. This truck is my baby. Recently when I start it up and after putting it in gear and begin taking off my engine is loud as if I am revving the engine without any indication in the rpms. I want to say it starts out on the trip a tad sluggish. Is there anything I can do to eliminate?
View 1 Replies
My 1992 Honda Accord failed the emission test today for a too high NOX reading. The applicable standard is 2.50 and my car's reading was 2.61. I've read that high NOX has something to do with a malfunctioning EGR valve. Will replacing the EGR valve guarantee that I pass the emissions test? I don't want to start throwing money at all kinds of parts.
View 4 Replies
On Sunday the high-pitched beep went off while driving, followed by the orange engine light to the left of the speedo needle and EMISSIONS WORKSHOP coming up on the computer.
Everything is normal. Revs are fine, temp is fine, no other lights come on. I checked the coolant and that is fine too. This happened about two months ago, but it stopped after a couple of days.
Could this be something like an O2 censor?
View 9 Replies
I no longer have any sound from any device or output. Stock NAV unit and I can't figure out why I wouldn't have any sound. This NAV unit sucks. It is so outdated that it doesn't even know the right time!
View 34 Replies
My hyundai 2004 sta fe awd 3.5 LX engine light came on while cruising dwn the freeway. At the same same time i heard a loud thud and speed went down from 65 to 40mph and a high idle. I drove it home and hook up the obd2 scanner and got P0720 suggesting bad output sensor. So I decided to buy new sensor from the dealership, put it in and thought it will fix the problem. After few days the engine light came on (P0720)again with the same clunk noise and speed down from 65 to to 40 mph at high rpm. Took it home, did some experiment by putting back the old sensor. I Connected the harness back, but this time I wrap the female connector with the electrical rubber tape and electrical vinyl tape. Problem fixed. No more engine light,transmission shift smoothly. I think the connector (harness side) to the output sensor was crack that's why its not making good solid connection. The rubber tape technique held the female connector pins tightly together. New part didn't do anything but it was a learning experience.
View 1 Replies
Car is a 2000 Passat Wagon 1.8T ATW FWD
I get the P1128 code and Emissions Workshop warning most of the year, then it cycles off in the summer. It went off yesterday, back on today, and I imagine it will go off again for weeks/months as the weather heats up.
Things I've tried so far:
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced MAF wiring harness
Replaced front 02 sensor
Replaced air filter
Replaced cracked vacuum tubes, at least those accessible from the top. Some of the hidden lengths theoretically could be at issue but a mechanic said they were ok.
What I've not replaced is the secondary air pump. (Mechanic told me it's dry and checks okay.)
View 5 Replies
Check engine light emissions evap system code comes up when the system is scanned what could be problem? 1998 chevrolet prizm...
View 4 Replies
