My 09 Sonata LTD V6 was sometimes idling erratically (revving and slowing) after starting a cold engine. It never happened in the previous 3 winters I have owned it. I took it to the dealer for service and they said an ECM update was just released, described on the invoice as "TSB 10FL002 FOR COLD START ROUGH IDLE".
View 2 RepliesSo yesterday during a work lunch my CEL light came on. my car only has 20,700 miles on it. and I bought it brand new. So obviously I was very nervous. I took the car straight to the dealership and dropped it off, seeing as I was only 3 blocks away from the dealership.
They ran the diagnostic and it said there was issue with a cylinder misfire. And after some more tests it led them to replace the engine coil. They drove it 5 miles and believed it corrected the issue. That evening after work when the shuttle came to pick me up, I drove the car home and no issues what so ever. Car actually seemed to be getting up to speed better than before. (car is automatic).
The issue, this morning when starting the car and getting ready for work, I hear a weird noise when starting the car, revving the engine, and getting up to speed. It is not a ticking noise, I would describe it more as a rattle but that doesn't even describe it real well.
They also did an oil change. I bought the car brand new, and have never had any issues and religiously get oil changed by dealership every 3 months.
Just this week my ESC light has come on and stayed on. Seems like the engine has been revving a bit higher too along with this light. Could this be a coincidence? The car doesn't seem to handle any differently. How to get this light off?
View 3 RepliesIn my 2007 Sonata, I hit a poorly placed high manhole cover in a dip in the road, in the dark, going 30MPH, whacked it good before I could adjust...
I then pulled the car over, it seemed to go dead, then the car did crank back up, the engine sounded much louder, like a loud rev/hum, not quiet like usual.
I next drove a mile to a c-store, transmission seemed OK, no leaks, did see a check engine light briefly, but it disappeared. Car cranked OK, headed home, same sound right at cranking and at moderate speed.
Finally, I jacked the car up on the front left, from research appears that the plastic engine shields got smacked good along the front and near the right tire and bent back quite a bit on the left side. There seems to be no other structural damage that my untrained eye could see, just one indention you'll see in a couple of the photos that I think is part of the car design at that spot.
Again, no leaks, no smoke, no caution lights of any kind now.
Photos are attached...
My Hyundai's engine now sounds like a Mustang! Hoping it's just the engine noise from these plastic covers now being bent/destroyed in some spots, exposing the engine and the typical noise you'd hear without them...
Having DTC of P0507? Engine is revving a bit higher at idle than normal.
View 4 RepliesYesterday after about a 2hr drive as soon as I got off on the interstate exit and started to slow down my Explorer made this horrible sound that almost sounded like a power drill or the engine over revving. Then it did it every time I would slow down for anything after that. At first I thought it may have been the transmission so I took straight to a tranny shop, and by the time they got around to looking at it (several hours later) they said they could not find anything wrong with it and could not reproduce the noise. So I started driving home and about an hour into the drive it started doing it again. It only makes the noise when you take your foot off the gas. As soon as you touch the gas pedal it immediately stops. Someone told me it may be the bearings in the tension pulley, does this make sense ?
View 10 RepliesSo I have a weird situation. My Sonata GS with the 2.4 engine has trouble starting ONLY during cold weather (-2 or colder) if it's been sitting for a few hours. If the weather is warm, then it starts fine most of the time. The car tries to 'fire' for about 45 seconds before it does; and 'fires' with no hesitation at that point. The car runs fine, no hesitation or rough idle. I've cleaned the intake system to make sure it's not clogged or dirty, replaced the air filter, cleaned the MAP and throttle body. My battery died a few weeks ago, so I've even replaced that. What this could be? Everything I've researched or looked into would throw a code, or have symptoms while driving...yet it runs fine once it's started, and no codes/lights are showing. Don't want to just start swapping parts hoping to find the problem...
View 14 RepliesI was driving this morning after doing a brake job (nothing to do with the problem, just anger coming out) made it about 10 kms and noticed when i took my foot off the accelerator, the heater fan powered down a bit, and back up when I gave it gas...noticed a knocking sound from the engine...pulled into a gas station and put it in park. After a hard time idling, it cut out. I started it again and the idle was not good at all. kept cutting out. Got it going and made it home with the same sort of power issue. Tried to start it a couple times and same issue with the idle. Sputtering quite a bit and noticed quite a bit of exhaust coming out. When I backed it out of the garage, I noticed a small puddle of oil.
View 15 RepliesI have purchased a 2007 Sonata GLS that was involved in a front-end collission. The car has been rebuilt with and now the engines heats with the temperature going up to the red zone when idling after approximately 40 minutes of driving or sitting for 20 minutes or so in very heavy traffic. It is completely fine when driving at about 20-30mph, and even if it came to the red zone and we start driving it, it cools down within a minute or so.
I have read other related threads and tried to read everything that google could find related to this issue. I don't see any blown fuses and or wires not connected / loose. My battery went out yesterday but it had 500 CCA (cold cranking amps when my car needed 600, it was replaced yesterday, just in case it works.
So from my investigation, the only thing I have no clue about is the small fuse box located in the engine compartment in front of the main fuse panel. I am including pictures of it. On the cover, it says that it needs two fuses, both 60A, one for AGCS (Active Geometry Controlled System, I believe) and the other one for COOLING.
So even the dealerships in the area don't know what the box is for or at least that's what they say. All I see inside in the box is two black thick wires and they are connected, not even sure what the fuses are for.
My 2007 V6 Sonata Has a very loud clatter when I start it. It will last anywhere from 2-5 seconds then it usually goes away. It almost sounds like a baseball card hitting the spokes of a bicycle. It's within warranty and last time I took it to the dealer they first claimed they couldn't hear it. Then they changed their story and said that it was the belts warming up, and they said this is a perfectly normal sound for Hyundais to make. My fiance's family has owned 3 Hyundais and they have never had such noise come from any of there vehicles. Both of my other cars never sound like this.
View 17 RepliesI have a 2006 Scion Tc, its a manual and 2.4L engine. It has about 75,000 miles on it and everything in it is stock. I have recently changed my ac compressor due to the old one went out. It was properly drained and recharged after I replaced it with a brand new one. It has been working great since, but I noticed in the past couple days that if im driving and I put the car in neutral while still moving (to save gas) my RPM's will shoot down (like normal) but then it will start bouncing up/down until I come to a complete stop. Once im a complete stop the RPM will stabilize again like if there was no problem. Take in mind that in im getting of the highway coming to a stop light I will put the car in neutral and begin to slowly brake, the clutch is not engaged nor im I stepping on the gas. Why would my RPM's go up and down. also the AC was not on and the RPM will not do this while driving.
View 14 RepliesI have this problem about 3 weeks ago,when i start the engine i have sound dont know how to describe it but something like tik tik mostly come from crank pully it is not so loud and disappear after few minutes from 5 to 10 min . and if i turn off the engine and start it again does not appear only if kept turned off several hours.
View 12 RepliesLast Thrusday, my wife couldn't start my Sonata 2010 with 30,350 miles on it. It just clicked and sounded like a dead battery. She had to get a jump start through Hyundai road side service.
I change the battery yesterday (it only had 225 cranking amps) and immediately strange things started happening: lights flickering, engine surging, hard starting, not starting just clicking, gauge lights blink strangely at startup and when switching off ignition, not remembering odometer settings (I set my odo for MPG).
Is there a replaceable bulb for the check engine light? Mines stop coming on when starting the car. I think that's why I failed the emissions test. I didn't check with the attendant in the office to get an explanation.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Sonata GL. The airbag light on the dashboard stays off when I turn the key on and starting the engine, I checked fuses of airbag they were good. where is the problem?
View 10 Replies2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx. This just started a little while ago, before I replaced front brake pads. after I start the engine whether cold or hot, the brakes will pulse briefly when I step on them to get the car in gear. It feels like the ABS, but it only does after a fresh start, and not when braking. The car stops fine. The brake pedal is a little spongy, probably because I didn't bleed them, but the pulse was already happening so I don't think they are connected. there are no warning lights on at all. Also, it doesn't do it 100% of the time, maybe 80 to 85%.
In order to bleed I guess I need a scan tool, but the bleeding procedure is a bi-directional function which is not supported by most of the gizmos available. Know of one that might work without spends thousands?
When I slow down to stop my 2008 Sonata it jerks. It is an intermittent issue. The car has 95,000 miles and when I called the dealer I was told they would start with changing the transmission fluid and go from there. I read on some other posts of this same type of issue being fixed by installing the latest software for the transmission, but this was related to 2009 & 2010 Sonatas. Is it possible that installing some new software would work on my 2008?
View 1 RepliesOk, got a hesitation when the engine is cold, almost feels like a miss. Dealer could not find anything and there are no engine codes. They wanted to replace the plugs with new platinum plugs. I said did you pull any plugs, not that is what the tech said it could be. Could it be the Mass air flow sensor? Or a coil. After a mile or 2 it is fine. I switched to shell premium since dealer told me I had to get a decarbonization from using cheap gas. I used exxon regular and BP regular with a treat of premium every few tanks. But now I am on shell and they said I needed another decarbonization, This is getting rather expensive, I may go back to my local mechanic once the warranty is out. But the hesitation puzzles me.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata GLS that I purchased just over two years go. I have a couple of issues with it at the moment.
My first problem is I clipped my drivers side side-view mirror and a little plastic piece inside the side-view mirrror housing where the bolts go thru broke off. I checked with Hyundai and it seems like you can't purchase that plastic piece from them(they make you purchase the whole side view mirror). I also checked around at local junkyards but none of them had a 2010. What I can do here?
My second problem is when I'm slowing down to a stop and my speed gets around 10 mph or so the car jumps/jerks. It feels like it's almost skipping a gear or something and it's very noticeable. I was wondering if any of y'all have had that problem before and if so what did you do?
I am getting a ticking sound when i am slowing down (applying my brakes) at say 35/30mph. The sound stops when I stop. This problem starts after my car warms up; doesn't do it when I first start up.
I've taken the car to 2 Hyundai dealerships and a certified mechanic and the problem continues. I first noticed this about a month ago.
So far no one seems to be able to find the problem. The mechanic did try by replacing the front brake pads. He said something about a "shims piece " and thought if we replace the front pads that would take care of the problem. The rear brakes or ok.
I'm still having the problem and I wonder if it's the rear brakes after all. I don't know what I can try now. Someone suggested going to Brake Check. I have about 1000 miles left on the original warranty.
Today my transmission suddenly disengaged while slowing down from 3rd to 2nd as if i switched to neutral.Car revved freely when i pressed accelerator. Then suddenly after a second it engaged again and shifted normally. Never had this issue before i racked up 1,29,000 KM on my ride.
I can't see it as "slipping" as there was no change in speed and it revved freely. Also I 'm due for fluid change. What can be the issue?