Heading for a long weekend trip, went to pass a car on the highway and rpms went up and the car wouldn't go above 70, the car just stuttered. I pulled over and shut it off, and then it was fine. It was good the rest of the trip. On the way to the store today, it did the same thing around 35 mph today, restarted and it was fine again. t only has 9K on it.
View 5 Replies2011 Sonata GLS, 95,000 miles.
This just started yesterday. While driving, the RPMS suddenly drop off. Depressing the gas pedal doesn't command any power output, even if I floor it, the RPMS continue decreasing and there is absolutely no power. The only way to keep moving is to completely release the pedal and then depress it again.
The transmission has been serviced twice by me and shifts smoothly. Should I plug a scan tool in ?
I am driving a 2015 Sonata with 20,000km (13,000 miles) and the temperature light suddenly came on. I stopped and checked things and could find nothing wrong (oil and coolant OK). I was close to home (less than 1 mile) so drove until light came on again then stopped until it cooled a bit and then home. I thought it must have been the sensor because engine definitely did not appear to be hot.
Once in the garage, I inspected things a little closer and noticed a destroyed serpentine belt--ripped to shreds. Not sure what caused it, but that was the problem. I was afraid of a coolant leak which would have been more serious.
I came across this issue in my Sonata Turbo. At 5K+ RPMs, I can hear a sort of gurgling/rattling sound coming from the engine. Its concentrated on the driver's side behind the firewall. It goes away immediately once I drop below 5K RPMs. It isn't too loud; I didn't notice it up until now because I usually have some music going.
This is my first Turbo that I have ever owned. That would make sense because it only engages at high RPMs. My car has 3K miles on it. Been loving it so far!
My 2013 has been problem free until this afternoon when I went to leave work - it simply wouldn't start, maybe a dead/low battery? It's a 2013 Prius II and just hit 40k this week and now due for service, so maybe I'll have them look into it?
Today was very hot around 100*, around noon I went to get something from passenger side and decided to crack the windows. Instead of going to the other side I reached across the console and pushed start which gets it into whatever mode it's called. Pushed the brake with a hand while pushed button again to turn on and operate window controls. Then I pushed start again to turn car off, which turned off display as normal. When I went to start it 5 hours later I got nothing.
No dash light up, dim dome light, door open light was on with door open so I knew there was some measure of power, I think I saw a check engine light near the door open light lit up at some point in my attempts too. I popped hood open to see where the battery was at, lol, it's not in the engine bay. In my frustration I finally started noticing a "buzz" sound of some part in the engine bay. Tried to figure out what it was - all I know is it's mounted on the firewall in front of driver, about knee height, behind/below the brake and power steering reservoir. I was kinda able to get my hand far enough to confirm it was buzzing/moving/active by touching a finger to it. Was able to get it to turn off with sever pushes of the start button - maybe the car was cycling the different "on" modes without turning on?
So I decided to try and jump the car. Friend who's borrowing a car luckily had jumpers - the weirdest looking jumpers I've ever seen. They were thinner gauge and super flexible, they were also two separate strands instead of being connected like normal jumpers. Anyways, I got nothing out of it. Was about to give up when someone id called showed up - used their jumpers thinking maybe the weird ones were bad. Immediately got a spark when I put the negative on the strut bolt, confirming I had juice.
Prius started immediately as "normal" (no idea how a hybrid starts after a jump...). Stereo was working, headlights, dome lights, windows - basically like nothing happened. I did notice the battery indication was a little lower than normal, but still had just below 1/2 bars. If it were low I'd imagine it would be lower. It never gets above 3/4 bars for me unless I'm coasting down a mountain for a while.
Dead/low 12v battery? What's the part that was buzzing?
I just got a 2004 F-150 XLT. 200k miles AT. The problem is that it won't start. The previous owner was driving it when it suddenly died and wouldn't crank over. He was told by an auto shop it neded a new engine.
I don't think it needs a new engine because it stopped while driving. I may be wrong. I put a new battery in it. When I turn the key to start it, it just makes one loud click and doesn't do anything else. The oil and coolant look fine. What may be wrong with it or how to see if the engine is bad?
I have a ford ranger 1996 4 cylinder. The truck was driving fine then all of the sudden it shut off and wouldn't start... I checked spark and that is fine also changed fuel pump and made no difference. We also sprayed lighter fluid and that did nothing. It sounds like it wants to start but wont.
View 10 RepliesMy 2000 F250 SD 5.4 AWD's A/C wouldn't blow cold suddenly the other day. I confirmed the A/C relay (engine compartment, 3rd down from firewall)was "clicking" but compressor clutch was obviously not engaging with dash switch on Max A/C and engine running. When I take of the 2 wire connector to compressor to see if it is getting power, the truck won't start..if I disconnect the A/C compressor plug while running, the engine similarly quits. I have never had another vehicle do this on me before..I could unplug the compressor on my Jeep GC, for instance, measure 12+ volts with A/C ON w/car running and no problem with Jeep engine turning off.
I have searched for A/C wiring schematic w/o success. I checked every fuse in cab/engine for continuity since I don't know which ones might deal with A/C..jumped hi/lo pressure switch connectors with engine running/A/C ON w/o compressor clutch engaging. Clutch turns easily, have banged it a few times, and air gap looks good. More bizarrerly, I hooked the compressor to a 12V/ground via its 2 male prongs and didn't get the clutch to engage.
I had a problem recently with my '11 SE. It only did it once and hasn't done it since. I pushed the START button and the engine cranked over but it never started. I let it crank for about 5 seconds before I pushed the switch again to make it stop. The next time I pushed the START button the engine started.
View 5 RepliesToday, after making a few stops at local stores, I tried starting my car and it wouldn't start. It sounded like the engine did turn over once, but would stall out immediately. I ended up calling a tow truck, but when he showed up an hour later, the engine started first try. Except now the engine light was on.
I should note that a friend was watching my car for last week while I was out of town and she said she had no issues with the car. At first I thought maybe she forgot to put the gas cap on, but that's not it.
Had an odd situation earlier tonight. The starter cranked normally but the engine wouldn't actually start. I let it go for 10 seconds and hit the button again to make it stop in order to protect the battery. A few seconds later, I tried and it fired right up without a hitch. The MIL never came on so no codes most likely.
Car has 17k on it. 2013 2.0
Was out cleaning my windows today, and had the key turned to the accessory position so I could lower and raise the windows while I cleaned them. The passenger side rear window wouldn't lower (either from the switch on the passenger door itself, or the switch on the master panel on the driver's door.) The other 3 windows worked just fine. I immediately started planning on when I could get the car to the dealer
On a lark, I started the car to see if that made a difference and the passenger side rear window worked just fine. I then shut off the car, put the key back to the accessory position, and the window continued to work just fine.
My 2015 Mitsubishi Mirage had a strange little incident the other day. I have posted this on the forum for these cars and as far as the people on that site know, I am the first to experience this exact issue. I also called the Mitsubishi dealer and they said this would be under warranty if it happened again. They said they had never experienced an issue like this in the Mirage either. Whatever this is isn't a common problem which is good and bad.
I was pulling out into traffic and then there was a sudden momentary loss of power and then power returned. The check engine and traction control light were on. I pulled into another parking lot and when I came out, the check engine light was on but the traction light was off. I put the car in reverse to backup and it stalled. There was an Autozone across the street so I took it over there and had the code read. The P0068 appears to be a mismatch in input from the MAF, MAP, or TPS sensors.
I was low on gas but not that low so I went across the street to a gas station. While the car was filling up opened the hood and unplugged/replugged any wiring connectors going to sensors around the intake and manifold, wondering if it was a bad connection. The car took about 7.5 gallon of gas. These hold like 9.2 gallons or something.
I got in and started the car and there was no more check engine light. I hadn't cleared the code so that wasn't why. Anyway, I have been driving the car like normal the past 3 days with no repeats of the behavior.
I figure that a connector might have been loose from the factory or after the repairs from when I hit a deer a few months back. The car sustained front end and side damage so maybe something wasn't plugged in snug enough after the work.
I guess I could have had a bad tank of gas and was starting to suck moisture or something. I would have thought that would have triggered a misfire or something so my guess leans to a loose connection. The CEL went away immediately when I started the car. The new tank of gas would have at least taken several seconds to have any impact.
1st problem is shifting from 1st to 2nd and sometimes from 2nd to 3rd though, 2nd to 3rd is not as bad as from 1st to 2nd. It stumbles and gets really bad if I don't let up on the gas. After the initial shudder it will go into 2nd just fine. I also have to gun the gas a little bit when I first start the car, or it will just sit there and idle and never go into gear.
2nd and more annoying is that it stalls after driving around a bit. It happens on freeway or city. It doesn't stutter or anything the rpm's drop to 0 and it just stalls and won't start up for a 5 - 10 minutes or so.
Codes pulled are P0731, & P0736. The transmission was replaced about 2 years ago with a refurbished one. Could it be going out again already? The guy at Autozone suggested replacing the TSS (Transmission Speed Sensor?) to see if that was the problem. I have not done this yet, but plan to.
Yesterday I was driving my R spiritedly (the usual...). I accelerated up close to redline and was just about to shift up when something happened in front of me (I forget what, lane change, something like that) so I let the gas pedal snap back up. I didn't touch the brake pedal at all.
What surprised me was the tach fell off almost like the car was dead. My expectation is that momentum and the car being in gear would cause the RPMs to decay slowly, just as my speed decayed.
Do you think the DSG plays a role here? Did it engage the clutch because of the 'panic' lift of the throttle? It didn't put me in an unsafe condition or anything, it just surprised me as I'd not seen it do that before.
About a week ago I noticed my RPMs suddenly dropped while I was driving. a couple days later after driving the highway for about 45 mins, averaging probably 80-90mph, I got into town and I stopped for a car to park. Then it just stalled, I didn't notice a kick back, it's like the car just shut itself off. It took probably 10 attempts to start again. About a mile down the road it did the same thing pulling up to a stop light. I sat through 2 light cycles before it started again.
Got to my destination was there for maybe an hour, when I left the car started fine. Drove for about another hour on back roads when the Rpms started dropping again and I would need to dump the clutch to get them to go back up. Then my screen started beeping telling me to STOP with and oil pressure alert. I ended up driving the car home dumping the clutch whenever the rpms would drop. Once I got home I had my boyfriend take it out and nothing... Of course... A couple days have gone by and it hasnt been as bad but it still drops every now and then, and today after driving home maybe 5 miles it stalled again...
I've plugged it in and my speed sensor is throwing codes, but I don't think that's the entire problem. Whenever my car acts up the EPC light comes on but no check engine light so far. 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8t.....
I was driving home from campus yesterday, and as I approached about 50mph, the Celica suddenly revved into higher RPMs, all the while slowing down. I pushed the gas pedal, which only worsened the problem. I was able to limp the car home. About an hour later, I tested the car again, and the problem remains: Accelerate to about 35-50, then get high RPMs while the car slows down and jumps forward.
I suspect a transmission problem, accentuated by a loose wheel bearing that I haven't been able to afford to get fixed yet. My Celica is an automatic, with about 213000 miles on it.
Just had my 2015 ES350 for a week. Today when I was driving on the highway, all the sudden the audio display screen (no navigation) was turned off by itself, but I still hear the sounds from the speakers. all the buttons were not working. after few minutes, the display system seems reboot itself, then it was frozen at start screen with only shows the Lexus logo on it. until I pulled over and restarted the car, it was back to normal.
View 5 RepliesI've been noticing that my 15 RCF idles a bit weird. Regardless if AC is on or not, the idle seems to always be fluctuating a couple hundred rpms - almost barely noticeable. Usually 500-700rpm back and forth. Doesn't really bother me but I wonder if it's just my car or if all the RCF has the same issue and if it was a sign of a bigger issue.
Doesn't matter which mode I'm in either. Of course it's only noticeable when there is the actual needle stick on the RPM gauge (eco mode and the gauge with the yellow doesn't show well).
I sometimes have a weird idle. When my car is cold the idle is fine. When the car is warm the idle is fine. The idle only gets weird sometimes when I drive the car, park it for an hour or so, start the car again (temp gauge is about half way from complete cold start to complete warmed up) and I get a fluctuating rpm tach. It bounces around 50-75 rpms for a while. You can definitely feel it in the car and if you stand behind the exhaust you can here it slightly burp/hiccup. The car has 16k miles on it and it's a 2015. The gas mileage and performance has not changed. I don't know if it has done this since day one as I usually have my radio on. I heard it once now I make a point to see if it does it. I also don't have any CEL on.
View 12 RepliesRecently, I have had 3 instances where my car alarm suddenly goes off. All times, my car was parked in my garage, unlocked. The keys were sitting on the table and had not been touched.
The only thing is that I think the battery in my remote is started to get low I think but I don't really see how that would cause this issue.