Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Tire Developed A Slow Leak
Aug 23, 2015
I have a 2015 sonata SE with the stock 16 inch kumho summer tires. One of the tires just developed a leak, a slow one, after 5 days psi drops from 34 to 28. I am guessing I ran over a nail? or maybe valve leak? I don't recall driving over a pothole or anything that would otherwise damage the tire or rims.
Now suppose it is a nail, is it dangerous to keep it in there? will it deteriorate the rubber even more? Or is it one of those things i can leave in there, and just keep pumping air every few days?
Just wondering is it worth it to bring it to the tire shop and have the check for where the leak is and have them patch it.
I have 3750 miles on my tires, when should i get it rotated and/or replaced? How does one replace tire since there is a TPMS system? is it easy to do without dealership?
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2015 Hyundai Sonata limited Kumho Tire Wobbling at Slow Speed 10-20 MPH
Bought a brand new 2015 Hyundai Sonata limited from Hyundai of Kirkland, Kirkland WA on Aug 30th, 2015 and started noticing wobbling issue.
Checked Wheel balancing/alignment and have visited Hyundai service center 5 times so far and they give me the standard answer, you car drives as expected.
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I have a 2005 Saab 97x. It has auto-leveling air suspension. Recently, it seems to have developed a slow leak. When I drive all day, it is fine, but each morning when I go outside, the rear end is eight inches lower than it was when I parked it the night before. If I start up the car, the pump kicks in, and the rear end lifts to its proper level.
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About 4 weeks ago my 2015 sports turbo developed loud exhaust, deep rumble, dealer replaced left rear muffler. Noise still there. I'm suspecting the center muffler.
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Ive been losing 20psi every week for the past month and I've finally had some time to fix it. I figured a leak that small would best be fixed with some slime. But can we use slime with tpms? If not, I guess i'll just have to open up the hole and plug it up.
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I running into a bit of a strange tire problem. I recently had the tires replaced on my 17" wheels. I ordered the tires online and had them installed by a local garage. Ever since then, I have been having what appears to be an intermittent leak from my left front tire. I'd typically fill the tire to 42psi in the morning and, by the next morning, discover it to be around 34-35psi. My commute each day is approximately 100 miles round-trip. This is very repeatable.
I have been back to the mechanic. He removed the wheel and very carefully examined the valve stem, rim-tire bead, sidewalls, and treads for any leaking using the soapy water method. We couldn't find anything.
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i got a screw in my tire with a slow leak. is this covered under warranty or should i have it done locally ?
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I have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee. One of the tire valves has a slow leak. I figured I could get a new valve. But, instead, the guy reminds me that the valve has the pressure sensor built in. He could put in a regular stem, but then the light on the instrument panel would never go out and I'm assuming I couldn't get through inspection like that.
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I fixed a slow tire leak today and in the process I examined the rear suspension closely. I had one rear corner jacked up and could easily see the difference in position of both rear wheels compared to the frame. The difference was only in the range of 1 inch. Mind you one wheel was in the air, and the other was bearing the doubled weight.
I also examined the substantial torsion bar with it's C-shaped cross-section and closed edges. I don't see how any additional anti-sway bars could benefit this very stiff arrangement.
I know that members that installed rear anti-sway bars raved about performance increase.
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New Splash Mud Guard Flap 4pcs 1set OEM for Hyundai Sonata 2015...I had these installed at a garage. Problem is when backing up and turning, the tire rubs against the mud guard. Is this normal?
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I have a 2015 Sonata Limited and I'm trying to figure out the source of a periodic noise that I've never heard before and a car. I can't reproduce it on demand but it tends to occur on low speed turns like turning into or out of a driveway or making a turn at a slow speed residential intersection.
The sound appears to be coming from the left front of the car the best that I can localize it. And is not a squeak or high pitched sound of any kind. It is a lower frequency that I would describe as a very rapid ticking sound.
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My son has a 2007 sonata v6, daughter has one too. Both have about 130K miles, and both developed slow coolant drip leaks. I took off both hoses on both cars, cleaned the crud from the housings and replaced with new hoses and clamps. Problems solved in daughter's car, not so in sons car. I note that it looks like the area below the thermostat housing is wet - and thought that was from the crud/hose situation. But he is still losing coolant, even more now that its getting colder at night, and I's sure its not the hose connection anymore.
The car will generally NOT leak when hot, only as/when it cools off. I.e. puddle in the morning situation.
Looking at the diagrams, it looks like that "housing" is really a connection to the crossover pipe, heater hoses, other stuff (throttle body heat) and also contains what looks like a temp sensor.
I suppose any of these are possible, but my first thought was either a leaky temp sensor (or possibly loose) or something more serious like a cracked housing, leaking o-ring, gasket etc.
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Well I've just noticed something quite annoying today... a very slight hissing sound coming from under the rear end of the car. A friend I drove to work this morning even said "what's that noise?".... It reminds me of the sound you'll hear when there is a pinhole in a joint weld, or a clamp is loose? My car only has 2800km on it!
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I had my tires rotated about 2,500 miles ago with tire balancing and wheel alignment done. After this the car developed strong vibrations at between 55 and 65 mph. When the speed goes up or down from that range the shaking stops. If I am going at a speed higher than 65 mph and brake the car shudders until the speed is below the 55 to 65 range.
I had the VW dealer do another tire balance, but the problem persisted. I then went to a Goodyear tire outlet and had them do a tire balance and then another one about two weeks later. The problem is still there. The Goodyear people suggested running the car for a while and see if it improves. It has not about 2,000 miles later
The VW tech rode with me and said that it was warped rotors that caused the vibration, but if the rotors are warped, should this vibration also be felt for other speeds?
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I went on vacation, my 2.0T B6 developed a coolant leak at 35k miles. It's still in the shop but the problem has been identified as a leaky o-ring located toward the rear of the engine at the block. The SA told me that they've see quite a few of these in both Audi and VW products using the 2.0T.
I'm also getting a reflash for one of the recalls. I think it's the 03 recall but I'm not sure until I get the paperwork. So off I go in my loaner PT cruiser until I get the B6 back today....
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I bought a 01.5 Passat a few months ago and it had developed an exhaust leak. So when I went to check under the car I found it was missing the catalytic converter.
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I did a coolant flush following the instructions posted on this site. In fact I did a little more than just a flush - replaced degas bottle cap, replaced thermostat and installed a coolant filtration system.
There were no leaks before I started and the only reason I did the flush was that there was green antifreeze in it.
I noticed that there was half a gallon of coolant under it in the parking lot this afternoon - the degas bottle still has coolant in it, so I drove it home and inspected the thermostat housing and top radiator hose, as well as all fittings and hoses installed as part of the coolant filter. Everything was dry.
I tracked the leak to the lower radiator hose - the one thing I did not touch as I drained from the petcock. Coolant is running down the lower radiator hose.
Could the new radiator cap have increased the pressure in the system to a point where it identified a weak point that was not leaking before?
My temps are great, ECT is stable about 188F - 190F and EOT is stable around 192F - 194F. I ran it hard and got temps up to around 200F and they both came back down to 192F range very quickly when I backed off. They were actually running about 5F higher before the flush.
I will try running the old cap to see if there is a difference, but if the lower hose is the weak point I'd prefer to replace that and run the new OEM cap.
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After 150,000 miles, the radiator has developed a small leak. Question- do I have to remove the fan or can I just unbolt the shroud and push it back to slide the radiator out? I don't have that special wrench to spin off the clutch fan. 1997 Explorer 4.0 ....
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My 2009 Vue developed a coolant leak into the oil at 130k km. I had to have replaced. GM has a technical note about this exact problem with the recommended fix: Engine Replacement. The coolant was leaking into the oil at the water pump.
The Statement from the dealership states that there was a crack in the block near the water pump. The dealership was good but a block should not break like this. Is this a design defect with the block, and if so is their a class action already started?
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A Power Steering leak has developed on my 2002 Alero's driver side near the front wheel. I've been aware from other posts that it may be the Rack and Pinion, a power steering pump or a seal. There has been no noises in my steering when I drive and its steering well as it ever was. I am wondering is there a way to detect what of the three things it may be?, without taking it into a dealership or shop?
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