Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: 2012 - Ignition Would Not Turn And Steering Wheel Locked
Oct 5, 2011
So this happened 2 times before, I am sure it is something I am doing and not the car.
So i just parked and turned off my car, and i noticed i left my windows up, so i tried to turn the car back on but the ignition would not turn and steering wheel would not move. I pressed harder and harder but it still was locked. My bro told me that same happened to his Civic and to unlock it you have to press on break hard and ignition would unlock, i tried that but nothing happened.
I googled and read online to insert the key into the ignition, try turning the car on and at the same time turn the wheel side to side. I did it and the car unlocked. My question is this, why did it lack in the first place, has this ever happened to you, if so how did you unlock it.
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I have 2012 sonata and she has about 43000 miles. I replaced 4 tires at 40000 miles. Soon after, steering wheel used to shake when I apply brake. So, I got front rotors resurfaced and got new front brake pads which solved the problem of steering wheel shaking. I also got alignment right after installing brake pad.
Since last week, I realized there is a vibration coming from front of my car when driving over 30 mph to about 70 mph.The vibration is present randomly and weird thing is that the vibration stops immediately when I apply brake. What may cause this problem?
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My steering wheel and ignition locked up 2 days ago. I tried turning the wheel and the ignition at the same time, tried the brakes, tried shifting gears and anything else i could think of. I think the problem might be with the ignition coils, or multiple ones, but i have bypassed that by hot-wiring the car(which was a pain because of all the anti-theft features).
So I have the car running now and it is almost drivable except the steering wheel is locked up. I need to know how to fix this, i have read plenty on it and i think i can break a pin that locks the steering wheel to make it work, but i don't know where this pin is(might be behind the ignitions, or attached to it somewhere). if i could do this without breaking anything that would be great, but if the car will run, I am ok with it begin broken, because i already hot-wired it so I'm not worried about breaking anything unless it will make the car not run.
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Went to start my car today but couldn't move my steering wheel at all??
Ignition still works and i can turn my keys but not the wheel?
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During the past couple of months, I've noticed a moaning when I turn the steering wheel at slow speeds, mainly while driving in parking lots. When I turn the A/C off, the sound disappears. Is my compressor on its way out? The dealer replaced a leaky condenser in 2011. My fear is that they didn't replace it properly with adding oil back to the system.
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I have a 2008 RX 350 and I am experiencing issues with turning the key ignition and having the steering wheel locked. It gets locked and after several attempts at jimmying the key it eventually starts. My concern is that if I keep this practice up I will damage my key. I have addressed this issue to the dealership and I was naive and trusted them with fixing the problem with my last maintenance visit. Thinking the the problem was solved I started to experience the same problem again. I was first told that it is possible the my key chains are too heavy which could of caused the problem but I lightened the load and still have this problem. I've read about this problem with other people but there doesn't seem to be a solution.
One thing I have noticed is that I tend to experience this problem during the cold weather. During warmer weathers I don't have issues with the key ignition being locked but now that it's cold I am having the problem again (not sure if this has to do with anything). Do I need to change a part out to fix this? I've also read that there can be dirt in the ignition which needs to be cleaned out. Will this work and if so how do I do clean it?
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I have a 1983 Mercedes 380 SL and the ignition key will not turn; the steering wheel will not release the key and I am at a loss as to what to do further than: tapping the ignition cartridge with a hammer, inserting key, tapping it, then trying. Nothing seems to even feel remotely like the key is attempting to work. I have heard it is best NOT to use WD-40 in the lock.
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I own a Honda 2009 Accord EXL with about 25,000 miles. Over the last 5 years a problem has occurred randomly (at least 8 times) and up to last week I was able to over come it. The problem is: when attempting to start the car you find that the steering wheel, shift lever, and ignition key lock are all "locked" up. Nothing can be moved or turned. Thus you can not start or move the car. Up until last week I would jiggle the steering wheel or the shift lever and it would unlock. I took it to the Honda dealer after the first few times and they all but laughed at me . Then last week nothing I did could to get the devices unlocked.
I called the local dealer and he advised having it towed in, which I did. When the tow truck driver arrived he showed me the hidden compartment next to the shift lever and inserted the key. This did unlock the steering wheel sufficiently that we could get the car aligned with the tow truck. And I was able to insert the key and start the engine. But when I attempted to shift the car it acted as if it remained in neutral. In other words the engine roared but no motion no matter which gear I selected. We managed to get the car onto the tow truck and delivered to the dealer. Of course when the dealer looked at it, all was well no problem.
The dealer kept the car and "went over everything" and "found nothing wrong". They said they "have never experienced" this problem before and their home office confirmed that. The Dealer's solution: If you park the car, shift to Park, and turn it off and then turn the steering wheel counterclockwise hard, a click is heard and the whole car is locked up. The dealer showed me that by pushing hard on the brake, forcibly turning the wheel, and at the same time playing with the ignition key with a little luck it all unlocks. (Notice he did not indicate using the hidden compartment trick.)
I find it strange that the dealer has "never ever experienced this issue", yet has a "work around"!! Though I must admit it does work when you purposely "lock" the steering wheel (the random act has not occurred again so far). My question : is there some fault to the electronic (or other) sub systems which should be fixed? I just hate to have my wife out alone and run into the situation again.
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I easily removed the key lock cylinder but when I went to put the new one in I cannot get it to turn all the way back to lock the pin in place. The steering wheel is not in the locked position nor can I get it to lock. I have turned the steering wheel as far left and right as I could go with no success on getting it to lock or on getting the ignition key lock cylinder to turn back securing the actuator pin. The old key lock cylinder won't go back in either. What am I doing wrong?
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Yesterday, my 2001 Sonata's steering wheel locked up and the key wouldn't turn, despite efforts to jiggle the wheel and key at the same time. The right front tire was in snow (the left front was not), so I got under the car with a snow scraper and banged the snow out of the wheel well and from the ground around the tire. This seemed to do the trick, and I was able to get the car started. Later, I (perhaps stupidly) parked in the same spot (it was either park there, or run the risk of the car getting hit from being too far out into the street). I now find myself in the same situation, but can't seem to remedy it. I've removed all the snow from the wheel well and all the snow surrounding the tire using hot water and salt. The tire is basically suspended in the air by a small-ish chunk of ice that won't melt. If I could get the car in neutral I'd do that and push it out of the snow, but I can't do that without the key turned. As far as I can tell there is no shifter override.
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I have a 1990 toyota celica. The parking attendant somehow locked the steering wheel and the key will no longer turn in the lock. I tried everything i could think of: turning the wheel whilst turning the key, putting car in all positions other than park and then turning the wheel and key, changing the key, etc....The steering wheel remains locked and will not unlock.
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Got in my Treg turned key an nothing happened. Thought that somehow battery was dead. Hooked up jumpers to treg and touched both ends on the other side and had mean sparks!! Checked lights and lights are bright. Checked alarm and alarm is loud. Turn key and none of the gauges register. Starter does not turn over. Can't get car out of gear. Wheel is locked. Can get key out. Thought it was key fob and used spare. Same result. Bottom line, plenty of juice in battery, but starter will not turn over, won't come out of gear, and steering wheel is locked.
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I've got a 2007 rx 350. The steering wheel is locked and the key wont turn. I've tried everything, forcing the steering wheel left and right, forcing the gear shifter to neutral and moving the car. I even tried to spray some wd-40 on the key and then trying it.
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A while back as I was driving, I heard some sort of clunk, and the steering wheel locked and would not turn left. It then unlocked after a few seconds. Ever since then, it has been very hard to turn to the left (and right, at slow speeds and on sharp turns, but much easier than turning left). This happened a few days after I replaced both front end struts and inner tie rod ends, and got an alignment - they were cheap quick struts (entire assembly), but seem to be of fairly good quality.
Initially after some consultation I thought it was the power steering pump, so I replaced that. It became easier to turn right, but still very hard to turn left. I took the front end off the ground and turned the wheel all the way left and right, no problem or resistance. I am nearly certain it is not the pump.
At this point, I am fairly certain it is either the steering gear or some part of the rack and pinion. I am planning on getting the assembly replaced. The fastest and cheapest way is apparently to just buy the entire steering gear/r&p assembly. Would bad strut mounts ever cause an issue like this? Any other possibilities besides the steering linkage?
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I have a strange problem with my radio in 2012 Sonata GLS. I sometimes turn on the car and radio makes low pitch noise. I switch off the car but radio stays on making noise and radio display stays lit, I try to turn off the radio - does not work, I press radio buttons - no response - only low pitch noise. In the end I need to disconnect battery and it fixes the problem. This happened 2 or 3 times over last 4 months. I am not sure how I can consistently reproduce the problem.
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I parked my 2011 Sonata yesterday and turned it off.
This morning, I tried turning the car on, but there is no ignition. I can put in the key, turn it to accessory mode (the dash lights up), but once I turn the key further to ignition nothing happens (no noise). I don't think I have a dead battery.
My brother had this problem once before. It has something to do with the fact that the gear is not in 'P'. He managed to start it after he called roadside assistance, but I don't know what he did. The gear is currently at 'P'. I was supposed to go and get my range switch replaced today to fix this but I can't get it out of the driveway.
What I need to do to get it to start?
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I am working on a salvage car that I bought recently. It was stolen, they cut the wire harness to the GPS system and messed up the steering column. I replaced the steering column with a 2012 GTI steering column and steering wheel. I bought a RNS 315 but I dont have any luck finding a wiring connector for it. After I installed the steering column, when I turn the ignition key nothing comes on in the gauge cluster. I know the car wont start till the key is programmed. My question is do I need to fix the wire harness so that when I turn the key ON the cluster will light up? Where I can find the connector for RNS 315. Regarding the airbag, will a GTI airbag work on a Golf TDI?
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I am getting a click from the steering when rocking the wheel left or right. It is coming from the assembly the intermediate shaft is connected to. I see there is a large bearing on the end where the shaft comes out. I am not sure what this assembly is called. I have had it at the dealer and they said they re-torqued everything but they could not duplicate it.
I do not fall in the range for the recall and I have no problem with the car pulling left so I do not think it has anything to do with the intermediate shaft. It is clearly from the assembly the intermediate shaft is connected to on the steering wheel end of the intermediate shaft. 2011 limited
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Bought my car about a month ago, 2011 SE 18k miles. Noticed while backing into our parking spot the steering had some play in it, not noticeable under speed, seems to only be noticeable while going slow or going over rough road. Was planning on taking it in since I still have plenty of warranty left but I always like to kind of know what the issue could be. Seems to be coming from the steering rack or driver side suspension.
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I have a 2013 Sonata gls, 5200 KM on it. I was recently experiencing an issue where at highway speeds my car would not go straight. I took to dealer, and they saw that 3/4 tires were not within the specs of alignment. Any way The dealer put the car in alignment however, now It seems like I have steering vibration in my steering wheel. It appears to go away when I put foot on brake but when I let go and at an speed I can feel a lot more vibration in my steering wheel now then before. It doesn't actually shake the steering wheel but its now annoying to feel when holding the wheel. I can also feel vibration in the seat as well.
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I have a 2011 sonata with about 40K miles. Recently the steering wheel has been making a rattling noise whenever I go over a bump
I know I need to get new tires, and the mechanic also said I need an alignment (which I will do when I get new tires, soon hopefully)
But, why the steering wheel/column (I dunno it is something inside the cars) is making a rattling noise when I go over a bump. It maybe started 5K or 10K miles ago, but it is getting progressively worse (or I am driving over more pot holes).
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