Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: 2013 - Engine Takes A Little Bit Longer To Start
Nov 19, 2013
I got the 2013 sonata gls, 5700 kms.
I live in southern Ontario, in Canada and the weather is starting to drop here in the mornings and nights.
The mornings are not 0-3 degrees Celsius and at night a little bit colder.
I have notice that when I start my car in the morning it seems like the engine takes a little big longer to start. It takes no longer than 2 seconds to actually start, it just sounds like its struggling a bit more.
I notice once i drive the car for a bit, park and then start the car again it seems like it fires up quicker and without ease.
Is this due to the drop in weather? or something else at play here.
Also it seems like in the mornings when the car has been sitting for like 9 hours, after it starts the engine sounds louder than usual.
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I have a 2013 F250 with a 6.2L gas motor, 50k miles.
Recently, I've noticed it takes longer to start. The motor will crank at regular speed but will take longer to start. It's always taken longer than a single rotation from day one but lately it's gotten really bad.
Even more recently, I hear a ticking noise under load, or even sometimes at idle. It sounds like an exhaust leak or worn lifter noise. Could these somehow be connected? What this could be?
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I got a 2010 sonata, just outside of the warranty with 60,400 miles. as of today these problems arose out of nowhere. the husband had trouble starting the vehicle today and got a check engine light. someone came, jumped it, and was good to go.
Well he comes home on break after 20 mins & goes to start the engine again and it takes 2-3 times to actually start. it's seems to be more difficult the longer it sits; if you turn it off and start it again it's less hesitant. we then replace the old battery that happens to be bad as well, with a relatively new one from my car and have the same problem. no more check engine- but it's still hesitating.
Possible starter problem? is something loose?
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My car had some minor front end damage repaired by a body shop. Since I got it back the a/c takes longer to start blowing cold air. If I drive it daily the a/c starts up normally. But if the car sits for a few days, it may take anywhere from 3-5 minutes before it blows cold. I've taken it back to the body shop who has in turn taken it to a dealer and nothing was found.
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Alright 2009 Corolla S 1.8L. 80k miles, 5 years old.
I just decided to start doing the service myself on my gf's Corolla. Switched to Mobil 1 0w20. Did oil and filter. Also, the battery had a lot of corrosion on the positive terminal so my dad unexpectedly poured a little coke on it and wiped it down.
That was two weeks ago. The car has started to take longer and longer to start. Like the battery is going dead. Did the switch to synthetic or coke on battery terminal make any changes to starting or is it just a really big coincidence. Oil level still good.
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2012 Golf GTI, bone stock, 18k miles. The issue is pretty straightforward. It takes longer to crank than I feel it should, perhaps 5-6 seconds, sometimes the car is cold, sometimes warm. Sometimes it cranks right up with no issue. A VCDS scan is clean. This is Atlanta weather too, so the temps are pretty mild.
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Occasionally my 2003 f150 takes longer to start than Id like. Lets say 2-3 seconds before it fires. It turns over plenty fast so Its not a battery crapping out. Runs great once it lights. I replaced the spark plugs but that didn't change it. Once again this just happens every now and then. 120k on the clock. Should I suspect a fuel pump showing its age? Oh, I should also note I changed the fuel filter a few months back.
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I have a 2015 IS 350 F-Sport with just under 9K miles. Occasionally, the car takes a little longer to start with a few more cranks. I've never had to push the start button twice. Once, it really seemed to struggle to start, but it did. I've had the battery/starter/alternator checked at 2 different local auto stores, and everything checks out fine.
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When I crank the engine when it's cold, it cranks fine. Case in point: first thing in the morning and in the afternoon when I'm leaving the office to come home. However, if I crank the engine when it's already warm it takes significantly longer to turn over. It really doesn't feel like it wants to crank at all and pumping the gas pedal doesn't work with things even though its second nature from my old carburetor days. The fact that it only acts up when the engine is warm befuddles me! I remember reading something like this awhile ago and the culprit was a clogged "box that dissipates gases". It's a 2003 Passat with the 1.8 turbo. The car has been maintained according to the service schedule and runs like a champ with 100,349 on the odometer.
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87k miles with no problems ever. I was driving on the highway last night and next thing you know I lost the engine/power and all the dash lights came on so I pulled over and after the dash lights stopped kind of flickering I could not start the car back up. I tried all the tricks I read about...holding the start button in for 30 seconds, rocking the car to loosen brakes, etc and still car wont start. I have a new battery and car was just serviced last week. Oil is good. Radio and all electronics work fine. Brake light comes on when depressed but its stiff. I tried a code reader on it and its generating zero codes.
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I have a 2013 Sonata Limited with an odd problem. Once every 10 starts or so, I depress the start button and the car starts up but only after a few seconds' delay. I don't hear anything during those few seconds, no cranking, clicking, or other noises. Normally, the engine turns over immediately, but every now and then, there's that odd delay.
When I get into the car, the photo of the car and the word "Sonata" do show up on the center of the dashboard, so the car seems to be detecting the key OK (and I already changed the batteries in the smart keys). This delay in turning over seems not to be related to the coldness of the car (it has happened both when the car hasn't been used for a few days and when the car was used maybe 15 minutes ago). I should add that this does NOT seem to be the brake sensor issue that I had with the 2011 Sonata SE that I leased previously, as the ESC light isn't coming on.
The car is on its original battery, so I'm wondering if this indicates that the battery is weakening. Also, the car has been in a garage where there is construction work occurring with a fair amount of dust.
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I bought my 2013 Sonata GLS back in October w/ 15k miles on it. For Christmas, I got an OEM Hyundai remote start (part # 3S056-ADU02). I took it to a local parts shop to get it installed. Turns out, I needed the jumper harness so I ordered that and they installed it today.
Now for the bad part - everything is installed, and the remote works fine. However, when I go to start the car, it stays started for 2 seconds, beeps, and cuts off and tries several times before giving up. The audio shop said to take it to the dealer to get it programmed, but I took it there and they said it would be $150 to program it. BUT they don't know if that's the problem or not. I've went through the forums and I see nothing about programming. I have found posts with problems similar to mine, but I can't find an answer. Why would it need programmed if everything else on the remote works? How can I make it stay started?
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It used to be, if I remember correctly, that while turning the key on a cold start the oil pressure gauge needle would show pressure prior to the engine starting, now it takes longer to start and the needle doesn't move until after the motor has started. I had the O-ring kit replaced due to oil leakage, and I wonder if there is an issue with the system. N to watch as they deedo their cold start today...
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2013 Sonata Limited. I requested that a remote starter be added to a vehicle with keyless ignition. They mentioned that it can't be done, as I would need an extra keyfob that would sit inside the car at all times, and that if I leave the car unlocked, anyone could get in, start it, and drive off with it. That seemed ridiculous to me, so I called another dealer to ask and got essentially the same answer, saying it was not available yet for keyless ignitions.
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I just got the Hyundai Sonata SE 2013 and it's great so far. I have a question about the recycled air button. It seems to be controlled by the internal computer for different scenarios.
My issue is that when I have the air turned on and let's so that I turn it off (set to 0) the recycled air mode disables and I start smelling the outside air coming in. So I have to manually push the button to enable recycle air to close the outside vents.
Also, when I turn off the car and later start it back up again recycled air is disabled again! How can I get the mode to stay on recycled air (or the mode it was previously on) when I start the car!?
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There is also a clear fluid leaking out of the engine now too. I thought it was water, but it has a bitter taste to it. It may be the air conditioner, but it has never once spit out water like this since purchasing the car new in October of 2013.
My engine also gets hot much quicker than it ever did before. I can move the car a few feet after starting it up and it will go one notch below halfway on the temperature gauge. It has never exceeded this temperature, but it sure gets there quicker now after this oil issue began. I can also tell when the car is feeling a little sluggish in terms of acceleration, and right now, it's certainly feeling sluggish. The 2.4L isn't as peppy as it usually is.
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I read a few threads on this and people have attributed it to the direct fuel injection - is this humming sound normal? Do all sonatas sound like this? Or should I go back to the dealership and get it checked out?
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I wanted to take it to the dealership but I want to make sure that I approach them the right way and won't be sent home with "this is normal behavior" as it happened in many cases when I was researching it. I suspect chain tensioner but I might be wrong.
2013 Azera Limited with 49k miles ....
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