Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Clock / Courtesy Lights And Remote Unlock Not Working
Sep 19, 2013
Today while driving my clock/temp went out. After I parked, my remote lock/unlock was not working. At first I thought it was a battery issue in my key fob but then remembered the clock going out earlier while driving. Then it dawned on me that a fuse must have gone out. I checked to see which one was the clock fuse (third one over from the left on the top row, 10A) and saw that my add-a-fuse was in that exact slot that powers my interior LED's. I removed it and put in the original low profile 10A fuse to diagnose if this was the issue and the clock did not come back on. I tried several different fuses with no success. My first question is, what could have been damaged since evidently it is not a fuse? Second, could this be an issue that is not covered if I tell them an add-a-fuse was in there? Obviously I will just not mention it and remove it but what could be the issue here?
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I have a Hyundai Sonata 2011 all was fine until a couple days ago when I lock the doors using the remote I hear it click then in 20 minutes later the lights are blinking on and off. I use the remote to lock the doors again and the same thing happens. I replaced the battery in the remote , I also had the battery in the car checked. What could be triggering the lights to keep blinking ?
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My 2013 Sonata, just out of the blue decided the driver side door push button wouldn't work anymore. it seems like it gets stuck when it's depressed, I can manually "pop" it back out and press the button and the doors lock/unlock but becomes stuck again.
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Ok on Sunday I washed my car, dried it including opening the hood and trunk as I normally do. On Monday morning I pushed my remote twice like normal and started to walk away but then i noticed I heard no horn. So I hit the lock button again twice in a row this time looking at the car and this time I noticed that the lights didn't flash either, however I could hear the locks lock. Just to make sure I tried to open the doors and they were locked.
So today I got out the manual and looked in section 4/12 - 4/18. It says that one lock button pressed lights flash, within 4 seconds hit again and lights flash and horn will honk once. I never saw anything about deactivation of this feature... So Just to make sure i went around and opened all doors, trunk and hood, then closed them all. I tried again to arm the alarm, hit the lock button twice and again no horn honk or flashing lights. So I finally opened up the hood and wanted to see if the hood pressure switch was maybe out of alignment. looked fine then i held it down and pressed the lock button on the remote, and BAM the lights flashed, pressed it again and lights flashed and horn honked once. Held it down for about 20-25 seconds till i saw the alarm light start flashing released it and the alarm set off. Next I closed the hood tried again, but once again the lights didn't flash and no horn....
Started looking at the top of the hood where the pressure switch would touch touch when closed, and noticed that it looks like maybe I am missing a rubber stopper on the hood that presses the switch, maybe when i was drying under the hood I knocked it off? Or maybe my pressure switch needs to be adjusted?
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I was attempting to change my trunk light to LED but when I finally finished it didn't work! I tried to re-open the trunk with my remote and that didn't work. I had to start the engine and open the trunk using the switch on the door.
When I started the car I saw the clock was not working as was the dome light.
I probably should have unhitched the (-) battery cable, but was too lazy.
I started going through the fusebox under the hood and now I'm going through the fusebox just inside the door.
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Creak coming from their overhead courtesy light/ sunroof control area? Can't figure where it's coming from.
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I was removing a remote starter off of my 04 camry because it no longer worked. After I removed it i noticed that the radio and clock were not working. I checked the blue/red accessory wire on the ignition harness and noticed it looked like it had seen better days. So i decided to make the connect more solid by cutting the weak point and crimping it back together. Now I put the key in and turn it to run and I ONLY get the CEL light, the airbag light and the brake light(parking brake is engaged). I can't utilize the windows, it wont even attempt to crank, the a/c and heat don't work now. I checked all the wires in the area of the ignition harness and all are solid connection (tested with a voltmeter). I have tried to jump start the car with another car as well as unhooking the battery for 2 hours and nothing has changed. I also triple checked every single fuse i can see in the passenger compartment and under the hood and all are good. I also checked the circuit board behind the fuse panel under the dash and everything looked ok.
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Driver's power door lock will sometimes not lock with remote when outside car. The lock button will only move part way towards being locked but not enough to lock the door. The same is true when the inside master lock is pressed to lock all doors. The driver's door lock will only move part way. When returning to car, remote will unlock all doors except driver's door. This happens about half the time. i.e sometimes the remote will lock/unlock ALL doors and sometimes all doors except the driver's door.
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I have a 13 Sonata GLS completely stock and today I noticed that the whole right side parking lights and tag lights are not working. I changed out the bulbs and no luck. I also tried looking for a fuse that controls them and no luck. I also disconnected the battery to try and reset and nothing.
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I have an ongoing intermittent problem with my exterior lighting. Occasionally, the front right amber light and the entire right rear light assembly, along with the license plate light do not work. Sometimes, if I turn the car off and on or repeatedly turn the lights off and on, all the lights will come back on. I have had the car back to the dealer several times, and they even changed the light switch on the steering column, but the problem still comes back very intermittently. I have blue LED's light bulbs for the license plate and wonder if this could be the problem. There are no codes being thrown according to the dealer. I searched this forum but didn't see any results.
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My Key Fob buttons stopped working, I can't remote lock/unlock the doors or truck anymore with the key. It will still open the doors and start the car however. My thought is the battery is dead. 2 Questions.
First, how do I change the battery?
Second, does the key have to be reprogrammed? If so, can I do it, or is that a dealer thing?
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I traded my 2005 prius a year and a half ago for an '08 which apparently was a rental car for 40K miles before me. It came with only one key(not a SKS)which recently quit unlocking the doors and hatch remotely. I looked under the steering column and there is only a reset button for the tire sensor guage, and a couple blanks, presumably one would be for the remote/smart key reset.
I am currently using the enclosed key to manually unlock the doors. The remote works as usual when I place it in the slot to start the car. I live an hour plus from the closest dealers, and would love to address this issue without having to go there. I checked the FOB battery and even replaced it, although the voltage was practically identical between the existing battery and a new one. The little red light is operational when i press lock/unlock. The car stays outside - i don't have a garage, and remains unlocked between trips. Recently it sat for several days in the last large snowstorm. When I finally drove it up the 1/3 mile driveway, it would not lock when i was ready to leave it up on the 'hard road'. I've checked out a few related threads, but haven't hit on this issue yet. Perhaps the 12V battery is weak?
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I had the battery unhooked for an extended period of time while replacing the starter. My father owns a 1997 F250 heavy duty. Well he was parked beside me when I was putting everything back together. He goes to lock his doors and ended up locking mine and his. After that my remote won't work at all, but his does. What happened? Howdo I fix it? I tried to unhook the battery for 3 hrs and plug it back in. Still nothing.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe, mileage is under 50000.
The remote Door lock, does not lock or unlock drivers door. But locks/unlocks all the other door.
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I have a 2011 sonata gls. Today I noticed when locking the car with the remote keyless entry, the hazard lights don't blink, and also no horn feedback when the remote is pressed twice within 4 seconds. I checked all settings in the display and horn feedback is set to "on". The unlock on the fob works fine, the hazard lights do blink for that. I know this is not a serious issue, just used to hearing and seeing the doors lock. What to look for to fix this?
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I have a jetta mkiv GLI. My key remote stopped working and it will not unlock/lock, open trunk, or panic button for a while, so ill just lock the door putting the key in the door and turning twice. Now i do the same thing to lock the doors, but now it honk like it used to, until i open and close the driver rear door?
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The remote locks on my 2000 Jetta GLX have been working intermittently for almost a year. I had been using the manual key to lock/unlock until finally the manual lock alarm disarm also became intermittent and I found myself stuck at a truck rest stop at 1:30 a.m. with my alarm repeatedly howling into the night and no way to disarm it. I felt caught. I felt trapped. Like I was found guilty of a crime I had never committed. I knew then - I had work to do.
My research in the forums indicated that the door lock assembly was a common culprit - a gremlin, often leaving headaches as it's only calling card. I worked quick, pulling a driver's side door lock assembly out of 2003 at the local junkyard and replacing it no problem. To my surprise, although this DID fix the manual locking/unlocking/alarm disarming problem, it DID NOT fix the remote unlock problem. The culprit was still at large.
Business as usual with intermittent remote unlocking/locking/trunk-popping for weeks until my dash threw the "AIR BAG FAULT" light. I decided to question a local garage owner who's VAGCOM told me that it was caused by something on the driver's side door. He was busy, but it reset fine and I was on my way. I know now that I should have asked for the code then but I was caught in the beauty of a girl who only nails polish was the grease and dirt of the car she worked under. And about a mile down the road, the light came back on.
Now, the "AIR BAG FAULT" light is on as soon as I start the car. However, the time seems to vary slightly before the Jetta beeps and tells me in faded red letters "AIR BAG FAULT". Sometimes right when I leave my driveway, sometimes not before I drive a mile or two down the road. My remote unlock is still working intermittently.
I need both my airbag fault and the remote unlock fixed. I'm wondering if these two problems are related? Like maybe there's a loose connection that is causing the airbag sensor to short and it's beeping when it bumps out of place and maybe the intermittent remotes are being caused by slamming of my driver's side door too hard & it's losing a connection as well. I tried putting a little conductivity jelly in the female clip that goes to the window regulator motor because I heard that the airbag sensor is in there somewhere but it didn't make a difference.
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Our 2015 Prius 4 with 8,900 miles just suddenly stopped chirping and turning the lights off upon locking. The courtesy lights also no longer work (the lights worked last night as I approached the car but not tonight. The locking chirp/beep worked 3 hours ago but not now. Also headlights no longer go out after double clicking lock on either of the 2 fob.)
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Some background: New remotes programmed worked a month then stopped working, toyota dealer got it working for a month but only worked within 3 feet of door. Now not working at all. Could it be receiver for remote in the car? Where is it? How to fix?
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I just installed the Hyundai factory Remote Engine Start in my 2011 Elantra GLS and have a problem that the hazard lights come on and stay on when unlocking/unarming the car. To repeat, this is the genuine Hyundai Accessory Remote Start/Security kit (3X056 ADU00), not a third party offering. Everything that the kit is supposed to do, WORKS as specified, including remote start. The only problem is that when I use the key fob to unlock/disarm the system, the emergency flashers/hazard lights come on and stay on until I turn them off from the inside or until I toggle lock/unlock for the key fob a few times.
I've been through the wiring a dozen times, and am absolutely certain that the kit is wired correctly -- again all features work. Now, I find it interesting that NONE of the wiring of the kit (based on the schematic) comes close to touching a circuit that is identified as hazard/flashers! I even temporarily disconnected all four leads from the kit that go to the front headlamp circuits and rear tail lamp circuits -- and the hazards STILL CAME on when unlocking. This is telling me that there is an indirect/unintended "connection" between the kit and the triggering of the hazard circuit.
The kit is clearly the correct one for the car, and the car has the right equipment for the kit (i.e. No Smart Key, has auto transmission, power windows, power locks, etc). Why the hazard lamps come on when I click the keyfob to unlock the car?
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The indicator lights stopped working on the switches and the dealer replaced a fuse and they worked again. Now they are out again and it seems like the heater on the drivers side is on the low setting for random intervals.
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