I read here somewhere you should NOT use caliper pin grease or any other grease for that matter on the pad sliders; either on the bad or the cup itself. I think it was Smoke. I have been doing this for quite a while and need to know why it should not be done?
View 3 RepliesMy 2011 2.4l Sonata made a metal on metal sound suddenly the other day. About 4 days ago, I drove about 2 hours away from where I live, Mostly highway, about 80mph to a go kart race. Got out of the car for a while and came back in and was pulling away to run the store and as i started to approach the first stop sign maybe 500-600 ft from where i was parked, i heard a bad metal on metal sound, came to a complete stop at the sign and it stopped. Went back to the race after driving to the store about 5 miles away.
Got in the car to leave and same thing, just to the stop sign 500-600ft away. Drove home like i said mostly highway, and didn't hear a thing. Today, about 4 days later, I drove to Chicago O'hare airport, about 30min away, and it was fine the whole way there. However on the way back, after about 20-25min, I heard it again. So I came to complete stop as I was forced to by a traffic light as I was taking my exit off the highway, and It started making that sound again. So i came to a complete stop at the light and started moving again when it turned green and couldn't heard a thing.
I replaced the front pads on my 2011 sonata with ones I purchased at an O'reilly's auto parts store about 11,000 miles ago. They did squeak initially after swapping but I thought that would go away eventually, nope it still makes that squeak/screech during dry/hot weather. Not all the time though, its mainly when coming to a stop over a long distance (slowly). I drive mostly highway miles. Will replacing them with OEM pads fix the issue?
View 7 RepliesMy car is making metal grinding noise when coming to a slow stop when you are stuck on traffic or going into your driveway. You can hear the sound and feel the sound.
I had this issue a year go and i took it to the dealer and they told me that i need to replace my rotors and my front brake pads.
A year later the noise came back and they told me that i need to replace my pads. I replaced my front break pads and a month later the noise is back. I went back and checked my pads and the pads were still new.
I only hear the sound when braking after driving in a heavy traffic or on a stop and go traffic. I don't hear the sound when i start to drive or driving in a non traffic condition.
I changed the rear brake pads on my 2002 Elantra and the caliper pistons would not retract to fit over the pads. After 11 years of weather exposure the pistons were frozen. I removed the calipers, soaked the pistons with WD-40 and penetrating oil and heated the housing with a hair dryer. Doing this periodically for a day I got the pistons to break free. I removed the pistons for inspection and they were severely corroded. I ordered two rebuilding kits on line which included all seals and pistons.
The pistons are threaded and screw into a threaded rod inside the housing. Should I thread the pistons in until they bottom out, or should I turn them out until they touch the inner brake pad?
Youtube video below, listen to the sound at 0.09 sec, 0.14sec and 0.20sec (ignore rest of the sounds they are from golf balls that I have in the bottle holders). When i turn the steering to the extreme right i hear this sound like pulling a metal. What is the issue and how serious is the problem.
I have 74,000 miles on it. 2011 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L ...
YouTube ...
What is the proper procedure in changing the brake pads without unbolting the caliper?
View 7 RepliesI need to replace the rotors and calipers on my 04 accent gl. I noticed there are 5 bolts on the back of the caliper. I know one is for the flex hose connection. Then there are 2 big hex bolts closest to the dust plate. Are those for the caliper mounting bracket? and if so will they need to be removed? Then the final two are on the outer edge, however the top one is rounded and rusted, is this normal? The one on the bottom is a hex. So what needs to be removed to change the rotors and pads? I also notice that there are two screw holes in the rotor, that I guess snug it in place against the hub, however the screws are missing. Is this bad? are they needed? and if so can I get new ones?
View 10 RepliesSo for a couple months now, my ride has been making some weird noises.
When I start the car up after anything longer than a couple hours of use, it sounds as if I have a piece of loose metal banging/moving around. I hear it sporadically on shifting through the gears, and when I'm at a stop.
Car has been in to the dealer three times, and I took the foreman on a test drive...of course it wouldn't make the sound at all.
I took a look under the hood today and noticed that the coolant level is low...filling it back up tomorrow. That got me thinking about the transmission fluid....I looked and looked, and can't find the transmission dipstick anywhere.
Any clue where I can find some way to check the level?
I replace my brake pads and rotors in the fall of 2015 with EBC parts. Now almost 13,000 miles later, I started hearing grinding and metal-on-metal contact in the front. So I went out and got PowerStop pads to replace the EBC (EBC had way too much brake dust). I took off the front wheels and noticed that the DF pads had about 1/32 left on them, ok I guess its time to change them out. Onto the PF pads, I find that there is almost no material left, in fact I could scrap off what was left of the material. I decided to do a rotation while I am at it and noticed that the rear brake pads on both sides look like I never used them!! Is it really that possible to have 2 stuck calipers, both on the rear at the same time?
View 2 RepliesReplacing remaining three calipers on my 2006 F-350 2wd as a preventative measure after I had a drag on the left front. Passenger side front being difficult. Caliper won't slide off pads. I believe pins are stuck but it doesn't seem they've got the caliper stuck - appears that I can't get pistons to stay compressed enough to clear pads. Caliper has some wiggle on pads - just not enough.
I tried multiple C-clamp iterations but can't get there just yet. I'd rather not fool with the bracket and removal won't fix my problem, just allow me to work it on the bench. I do have a replacement caliper, so damaging it to get it off is an option. I have sprayed Kroil into the piston seals in a Hail Mary when I pick this up tomorrow.
03 f350 4x4. New front calipers and pads.
Wondering if there's a 'trick' to getting the front brake pads into the caliper . Those damn springs kept popping out. I'd get three of the four ends into place in the pad holes then one would pop out while I'm trying to get the fourth in.
After about a hour of trying every different way that I could think of, another set of hands came by and with four hands holding things in place, it finally did the trick.
I have a 2007 hyundai sonata, this car is my daily driver. I put 180 miles on it a day around trip. Currently has 180,200 miles on it. Last Friday on my trip home when i turned right I heard a metal on metal sound. I slowed down went straight and it went away. Talked to a few people and I think it may be the wheel bearing. Even if I hit a road reflector it starts up. It's the front left wheel. Get on the breaks it goes away.
So my question is... Wheel bearing??? And can I replace the whole hub and fix the problem or do I have to try and press the bearing out?
I got some coilovers installed last night, they are ksports. i have them on fairly low height as of now but i have noticed every time I hit bumps, I hear a kthunk (metal hitting metal noise) from my front driver side. is it from the coilover nuts itself or something wrong with my control arm? the sound ONLY comes from the front DRIVER side.
View 4 RepliesI replaced my pads 3 months ago. Now I have a metal grinding sound (not squeaking). The mechanic says I need new rotors, and he will resurface the pads. I know I can replace the rotors myself; but do I need to resurface the 3 months old pads? If so; how will they resurface them?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 Sonata V6 I bought used two years ago. When I bought it mechanic serviced the rear brakes as the caliper was sticking. Now the rear brakes make a grinding noise when I brake and when I drive the rear brakes make a sound like slight metal on metal contact. I know Sonatas are known for brake problems. Should I replace the rear pads, rotors, calipers (including pins) and if so what brands are decent to buy? I have used rock auto in the past.
My car has about 198,000km on it (123,000 miles).
Have 50,000 mile on my 2011 F350 6.7 and up until today the truck has been flawless. This is my weekend vehicle and sees very light duty hauling fishing gear to my boat (100 miles hwy) and pulling my 7x12 enclose trailer with goose decoys. On a couple of occasions pulling my 29 CC from marina to my home and back. Took truck in for oil change and tire rotation, service advisor informs me I have 2mm on rear brakes and 3mm on fronts. Not sure why rears have more wear than fronts. Schedule to have brakes done for today and now find out that front right caliper is sticky and they want to replace both front calipers. I cannot believe that a 2011 SD F350 with 50,000 miles and of that mostly highway needs brakes let a lone calipers are going bad. Service manger tried to tell me that brake fluid should be replaced every 2 years, to which I responded that I have Ford perform all scheduled maintenance. He went on to say that this is not scheduled maintenance, wtf bs is he telling me, if it is necessary then it would be scheduled maintenance. Truck gave zero indication of stuck caliper, no sound and no excessive brake dust on wheel.
View 14 RepliesI've got a 2011 XLT. The front rotors have been turned twice already in 39k miles. Once at 12k and again around 24k covered under warranty. It starting having vibrations on the highway and shuddering when braking again around 36k. Tired of dealing with the OEM rotors and told it would no longer be covered under warranty I went to Autozone and got duralast rotors and pads for the front.
Swapped them out Friday
- took caliper off
- removed pads
- took caliper bracket off
- swapped rotor
- opened bleed valve to push back piston(used a vise/c clamp combo)
- closed valve with piston under pressure
- put in new pads
- placed caliper bracket back on
I did not remove the pins, they seemed to slide fine and the remaining hardware still looks fairly new.
Took it out all was good, bedded the brakes a bit and called it a night. Come out this morning and start to head out and it's shaking like crazy now once above 40 mph. Made it back this afternoon and took the passenger side off and its not making full contact with the rotors. I've read this can be common until the pads are broken in. Driver side appears fine, pads appear to be bedding fine and nothing looks out of the ordinary, I took the caliper back off but had to open the bleed valve to get it loose enough to let go of the pads.
I've even taken the passenger side back off and reset the piston again just to make sure.
Put everything back together and take it for a spin. Truck seems worse now even at slow speeds 25-50mph. Once the brakes start getting hot from stopping the shaking goes away. When the brakes start cooling back down it comes right back.
Going to swap back the OEM rotors and retest in the morning. Will take the new ones back If that puts it back to normal I may just replace with OEM ones then. The brakes work perfect it's just the shaking that I can't seem to figure out.
Anything to check? It seems like the new rotors are warped
So I took the pads off and saw pistons that push caliper against rotor were to far out to install new pads. (rear pads were still intact, both front pads were out when i pumped) So im pumped the brakes thinking it would reset them and alls it did was push the fronts out more.. I noticed fluid leaked out of the pistons after fully pushing them out.
After seeing that pushing the pedal only pushed them out and didn't reset them, i pryed them in with a C wrench. Was quite difficult but managed to do it. Note I only did this on the front pads..
Rear was just fine, piston went back in easily. I filled brake fluid fully and still does it - Now pedal hits the floor when i first hit it and seems very light when braking.
Recently the brake pedal on my 2002 Prius has been a little harder to push for the first mm of travel it almost "sticks" requiring slightly more effort once it moves past that point it is normal no fading or extra effort required this problem has now progressed to the point where the pedal is kind of crunchy for the first 5mm of travel and occasionally will not return right away causing the brakes to drag a little but again pressure required to stop is exactly the same no fading etc
I am thinking since I live on 2 miles of dusty washboard dirt road and some grit has worked its way into the bushing .
Have a 2011 SE with just over 21k miles on it.
Problem #1: When ever I go over bumps, go down my drive way, I hear this rather loud noise coming from either the roof or right rear. It sounds like someone is hitting metal with a hammer.
It happens when I'm turning the wheel or just driving straight.
Problem #2: Also when I am going over a speed bump, when the rear of the car goes over it, the suspension gets squeaky. Speeds are about 2-3 mph~
Unfortunately, it is no longer under factory warranty so taking it to the dealer is my last option.