Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: MPG Decrease After Plugs And Battery Changed
Jun 5, 2016
I have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 55,000 miles. I was told to replace the plugs and battery by my local automotive shop. I decided to do it myself to save a couple of dollars just this past week. I filled up the car today and noticed the MPG dropped significantly. Normally a full the tank shows I have 420 miles to go. Today it showed 370 a difference of 50 miles.
I have two ideas why this happened:
1) Replacing the battery has caused the computer to reset and as a result it is showing the wrong mileage. After a week or two of running the correct mileage will show. I drove the car about 150 miles after changing the battery and thought this would of been enough time for the computer to figure out the MPG if this was the problem.
2) I caused damage to the Iridium plugs when I gapped them and did not notice it. I used Autolite XP6203 model and gapped them at .044. Autolites do not come pre-gapped I was told. The car is not hesitating and runs smooth. I am thinking this is the problem but not 100% certain.
Is my idea about the computer valid and I should give it some time to recalculate MPG? I am thinking to give it a couple of tanks of gas and see if the car fixes itself
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I have rough idle problem after changing spark plugs, fuel filter and battery. There was no rough idle problem before this work was done. What could be wrong. Once the speed is above 20 mph it seem to run fine but at stops it vibrates and seem like it may stall!
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The volume control on my stereo stopped working today. The radio turns on, but the volume controls do not increase/decrease the volume. It is stuck at whatever volume it was at before this problem started. When I turn the volume knob, I see the volume level numbers increasing and decreasing in the upper right corner of the touchscreen, but obviously the volume stays put.
2013 Sonata Limited 2.0T
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS 2.4L Engine and recently replaced the Battery and Spark Plugs myself. My car has 55,000 miles and I have had all the normal maintenance performed. The maintenance guide suggested the plugs be replaced at 45,000 miles I waited until 55,000 as I was not having any problems. The last couple of trips to auto shop showed the battery slowing losing the ability to retain a charge so it thought might as well replace now rather than later.
After changing the battery and plugs I went to fill up my Car with Gas and the MPG dropped. Normally when I fill up the car with gas the dashboard of my car would show 420 miles until empty. Recently when I filled up the car it showed 370 miles until empty. I am thinking this is due either to replacing the battery and having the computer reset or I set the gap on one or more plugs wrong. The car is not misfiring so I am thinking it is the replacement of the battery and resetting the computer. I was going to run the care for a couple of tanks and see if the MGP change. I am also going to monitor the mileage and see if it matches the overall MPG.
Is my thinking about the battery and computer resetting correct?
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We just bought a 2011 and are only getting 40 mpg max. I wonder if the 110 Arizona summer heat has something to do with it. Pretty bummed. I have read 50 with careful driving is normal? I let bicycles outrun me? 12 volt battery? New plugs? It has 107,000.
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2009 2.4 Sonata. Replaced the battery. Engine light came on after battery replacement. Engine code P0106 (MAP sensor or vacuum leak). Car drove fine before and after the battery replacement. Engine light after replacing battery?
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I don't have a torque wrench. I just have a spark plug wrench. I changed my own spark plugs. I don't like taking them out and putting them back in. I'm not sure if I got the torque right. What should I do?
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Changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I can't seem to pinpoint what causes the failure to start to occur. The starter engages and the motor turns. Letting it sit for an hour seems to solve the problem.
I have not replaced the distributor yet.
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Just got done changing the plugs on my new to me 2008 Prius. They were in there a little tight and the crunching noise they make at first is a little disconcerting, but I'm thinking it has something to do with the coating NGK puts on their plugs.
Anyway, everything went smooth and I took my time and used tips I read about here. I've worked on cars since I was 16 and have rebuilt motors and completely restored a 1956 Chevy, but this Prius is a different animal. I think in the end though we are going to be friends...
Here are some pics of the old plugs. The gaps were a little out of range, and there was some wear, but 148k on spark plugs and the car still runs good?
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As far as I know, my Passat has never had any other spark plugs other than OEM. I could also swear that those OEM plugs always had 3 grounds. My gas mileage historically averages about 27MPG in a mixed city/highway environment.
Recently, my spark plugs were replaced and now my gas mileage has dropped to 24MPG. I had a similar problem once with my previous car (1998 Jetta GLI) and it was due to going from a three ground spark plug to a single ground plug. Putting in three ground spark plugs instantly restored the gas mileage to previous levels.
I've read repeatedly that the NKG PFR6Q is the OEM plug but it only has a single ground. I realize that my memory could be faulty, but this is driving me nuts.
Alas I can't be sure what was there before versus what's there now, but I know my previous mechanic was a stickler for OEM parts. Would switching from a multi-ground to a single-ground cause a 10%+ drop in mileage?
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Here's the run down:
-bought 6 months ago for cheap because it wouldn't pass smog test
-changed Purge Control Valve (PCV) and it passed
-filled with gas, heard popping noises like a backfire, and coded it read the same "Bank 1 and Bank 2 running lean, like it did before the PCV and then also "Cylinder 3 Misfire" appeared.
-At this point the car started running rough, at idle, and through acceleration...sputtering uphill, and when climbing through the gears.
-Changed the plugs & wires
-NOW, it's cylinder 5 misfiring, and not nearly as bad. It's idling and running rough, acceleration has somewhat come back, but it's definitely not 100%.
Should I start with the PCV again, since it's not starting after I fill the tank, and climbing gears slow? Is there anything else I should be checking?
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I changed my spark plugs now I got a miss and rough idle .#2 and 6 seem to be the ones that miss the idle don't change when I unplug the coil , I take coil off and put it next to the motor it sparks ! I put everything 3 plugs and got about 200 miles on them and 3 out of 8 had melt downs and left me on the side of the hwy. I got autolights in it now but it got a miss and rough idle ! Did I not do something right ?
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2011 Sonata. One Fob not detected. Tried other Fob also not detected. I suspected this was not a coincidence but replaced both batteries anyway. Still key not detected. Cars starts and runs fine using alternate start method by placing fob in console. Where is my problem??
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I had to take my car for Oil Change and I had the driver door lock replaced. I think it is a common problem with the Sonatas to have the driver door power lock issue.
The mechanic was doing it by the book so he decided to disconnect the battery before proceeding. His work is really neat, the door is working again.
After leaving the shop, I noticed the Check engine Light coming on! I have one of these BT modules, so I checked the code and it says: P0106. The car is idling fine, driving fine and there is no noticeable issues what so ever.
I stopped on the side, turned off the engine and with ignition on, I did reset the MIL. But the MIL came back in the second driving cycle. (turn off and then on).
Do you think I need a new MAP sensor? I've seen some Optima's owners with similar problem but I can't find how the problem has ended with them.
Today, I drove to work, 45 Miles with the coded pending. Once arrived to work, I turned off and then on the car and the MIL is on again.
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My battery is dead, but I need to drive for 5 hours. Can I boost it and drive for 5 hours on the highway? Would this damage my car? I can replace the battery when I get home.
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Charged battery, tried adding my 100amp charger "jump" mode on when starting, took off ground and ground down to metal where it attaches, cleaned all the contacts, tried a known good battery. Yet the car still clicked when trying to start it. I removed the starter and wired it with appropriate gauged wire, and had someone turn the key while I held the starter and it operated as it should, no clicking. What should I try next before I re-install the starter, so I don't end up having the system clicking like there is a dead battery again? Because I certainly didn't fix anything.
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Just put a new battery in our 2011 Sonata, now the radio doesn't turn on. Didn't find anything in the owners manual about this, and when I called the service dept at my dealer they said "I don't know, you'll have to bring it in". Hope it might be something simple to reset?
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I have the stock radio in my sonata and the radio volume will randomly decrease until its at zero. When I attempt to turn the volume back up it will continue to go back down. It does this regardless of weather the automatic volume control is on or off. From time to time none of the buttons on the dash for the radio will work either. The volume controls on the steering wheel are also messed up. The volume up button mutes the radio, the volume down increases the volume and the mute button changes the mode. I tried pulling the fuse to reset everything and that didn't fix it.
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I'm fairly new to these cars. I just bought one used 2 weeks ago. lately in the very cold new england mornings i am seeing the battery light flash at me when downshifting on the highway. seems to go away after about 5 miles and doesn't happen every day. Belt and the tension look ok. My car is stock and has 52k on it.
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Got a new battery today but now the check engine light is on. Went to local auto parts store and was told it's the MAP sensor. I had the battery replaced 3 years prior to this and at that time the check engine light didn't turn on. Is that normal?
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2 months ago I got my battery replaced when it started dying very often. Now the same thing persists, if I don't use the car for two days the battery dies again. I took it to the dealer and got it tested and the dealer gave me a report saying the battery is good. I have to jump start it every time.
2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS A/T
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