Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Metallic Rattle Sound At 2k RPMs
Jul 3, 2013
So on my new 2.0T Sonata I noticed a brief metallic rattle in the 2K-3K RPM range when you rev the throttle. I was very concerned.
The sales rep said it may be the heat shielding that is coming lose. He was concerned and said to bring it back when Service is open.
I just got back from the dealer: The service manager didn't know what it was but his tech said it was part of the turbo system, it's a 1/4 inch bar (parallel with the bumper) you can plainly see between the firewall and engine. He said what it did but I forgot to take notes.
I listened to another 2.0 Turbo Sonata on the lot and it has the exact same rattle when rev'd.
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2011 Sonata GDS. I previously purchased 19" Gen coupe wheels and never had a problem immediately. Approximately 2 months later of driving with the 19" wheels, when I got onto the highway one day, the car did a slight jerk with acceleration and the acceleration halted for a split second. Ever since that day, anytime I accelerate fast and/or reach highway speeds, the car has a delay when I hit the throttle. The car then has a "rattle" "groaning" sound that comes when the RPMs hit around 2000-2500 rpm. It will go away if I drive slow speeds/slow RPMs or shut the car off for a short amount of time. I have taken my car to the Hyundai dealer 3 times. I've had the adaptive values for the transmission and engine reset and that didn't do anything. I had a mechanic ride with me in the car to make sure they were hearing the sound and the delay in shifting and the mechanic was very shocked and had never even heard a sound like this before.
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Just purchased a pristine 2011 GLS with very low mileage. The car is essentially mint (garaged + well cared for by previous owner), but has one, occasionally noticeable issue: once warmed up, a very loud metallic buzz/rattle noise is heard from the rear of the car, particularly under low RPM acceleration. I've had many cars in the past with similar noises, which all turned out to be loose heat-shields at various locations along the exhaust systems. With this in mind, I've felt all the heat-shields on my "new" car, and they all seem to be securely in place - though some (especially the rear one over the muffler) seem to be minimally supported by design, and could potentially be resonating with certain exhaust frequencies.
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I own a 2011 Hyundai Sonata with ~40,000 miles (certified pre-owned). I heard a metallic pop sound while driving but did not see anything on the road or in the rear view mirror. Then I got on a highway and couple of minutes later there was no response from the engine (i could feel the car decelerating). Then the engine started responding again. A couple minutes later, again there was reduced response but this time I got a bunch of lights (oil pressure, abs and a few others). I pulled over and tuned off the car. by this time only the oil pressure light was on.
I checked the oil which was near empty. I walked to a nearby gas station and bought oil and filled 2 quarts. Then I noticed that all oil was draining right through in a steady stream.
I had the car towed to a nearby Hyundai dealer. The dealer diagnosis was that there is no drain plug which may be because the last place the oil was changed (around 2-3 months back) did not install the plug properly. He also said that the engine is ruined and will have to be replace and asked me to contact my insurance company.
The last oil change was also done at a Hyundai dealer (a different one than the one that provided diagnosis). I checked my driveway and there are some oil stains, I haven't driven the car much recently and have recently moved into this place so am not sure if these are new or old. What are my options. I don't have the the thousands required for a new engine.
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I have a rattle coming from the muffler when I reach 2000-3000 rpms. I thought it may be the heat shied, so I got underneath the car and it was nice a snug. Had my wife get in the driver seat and rev the engine. It seems as though all sound came from the outlet of the muffler. Do I have an internal failure in the muffler? Over the past month it has become louder.
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I've got a issue on the passenger side interior of my car that only seems to happen when it's cold/cool. I can hear a rattle coming from something plastic. I've turned off the radio and emptied the glovebox to ensure they weren't at fault.
Here is a recording I made last night with my phone. There was a decent amount of road noise on I-295, but when listening just now from stereo desktop speakers, I could hear the sound.
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2008 Sonata Limited.
When I accelerate from a stop there is a metallic rattling in the engine compartment. My best guess is that it is near the middle and near the firewall. Can't see much under the hood in this area.
The rattling stops after about 60km/h or so and does not happen at all during cruising otherwise.
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I'm back with another question! My 2006 Prius now has 60,XXX miles and the other day while driving with the windows down, I was climbing a hill to my house and when the engine is at a certain RPM, there is a metallic sound that comes from under the car, but more in the front. You can't even hear it when the windows are up barley, but more when they are down, you can hear it, especially when you're beside a wall or guard rail and the sound can reverberate back.
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I've been having a this rattling sound metallic type of rattle when I'm under load, meaning acceleration, on flat or hill side roads, then the sound goes, someone told me it can be the center shaft bearing..
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Where this sound is coming from? I notice it more when the engine hasn't been turned on in a few hours or so. It only happens at certain engine rpms, usually a bit higher than idle. It's a bit squeaky, per se, may need to turn up audio on the video below to hear it. May need to bring her in (just did a 30k service too..)
Possibly a belt of some sort? My AC is on at startup.
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On the December day my 2013 Prius Five model (hatchback with all the safety add ons, bigger wheels) turned 18 months old, i was on the way to have one of the freebie services. I heard a metallic rattle, seemingly coming from the back of the interior. It continues and I cannot find a source for it. I just read a thread about rattles in the 2011s. Not particularly comforting given what I spent on the car.
Is this something I could have the dealer chase under the warranty? (this is the first new car i ever bought in my 50 years of driving, so my familiarity with new car warranties is a little thin.)
My dealer has been pretty responsive -- swapping out an interior door panel as a freebie when the armrest portion separated from the lower portion and collapsed into the door.
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I have been having a grinding/metallic sound when going up hills in 4th/5th gear. It sounds like if you threw metal into moving parts. I believe it's coming from my engine or transmission. When i was at the dealer last month for a campaign and ecm upgrade i mentioned this problem and they replaced the vcm motor assy, however the problem still exists. What could be causing this problem?
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I picked up my 2012 limited Turbo last night but noticed there's a rattle of some sort when I accelerate around 2k rpm, it kind of sounds like a bunch of metals being shaken up. Is this normal? I am also trying to test for the left/right pull, but with all the bad roads here in the city its getting kinda tough.
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I just purchased my 2012 Sonata GLS about 2 weeks ago and had 64,000 miles on it. Put a few hundred miles on it around town without issue and then head out on a road trip and put about 750 miles on it when I had the issue. I was going about 60 mph and went to pass a semi and when I stepped on it the car started lurching, crazy valve rattle, and seemed to lose a lot of power. Got back behind the semi and babied it until I found a place to pull over and check it out. It was 2 quarts low on oil so I topped it off and it sounded fine, running smooth and no ticking or anything. Drove it around a bit and everything seemed fine and eventually got back on the highway and running fine. Pulled over after 100 miles and another 1/2 quart low, topped off.
Another 100 miles and another 1/2 quart, but running great with no issues. 150 miles from home and it happens again when I try to pass with the rattling valves and loss of power and I have to limp it to a gas station and now hearing the valve rattle and chugging on just a slight incline and going 20 mph. Get it towed 150 miles back to the Honda dealer where i purchased it from (long story) and their tech drove it and said he thought it needed a new motor since he barely made it back to the shop. They send it over to my local Hyundai dealer, and all of the sudden it is running great again! I go and drive with the tech and hammering on the throttle and it's running like a champ. I left it for him to drive home and they put 98 miles on it without issue. I picked it up yesterday and they said to bring it back if it happens again, but totally stumped as what it could be. They did start the oil consumption test so I will update when that is done.
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I hear a rattle or growl from the engine at 2,000 - 2500 rpm. Car performs fine. What it may be?
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I have a 2011 sonata with 72000 Km on it. As I am driving at highway speeds I notice a rattle from the drivers side towards the door. I can't quite locate where but have tried pushing trim and I can't stop it. Took it to the dealer and was told there was nothing wrong and no rattle. On a trip yesterday I noticed the rattle stopped as I braked. So I then applied very light pressure on the brake pedal. So light it did not come off cruise. And the rattle stops. What is the likely cause? I want to be prepared with some ideas when I take it back to the dealer.
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I recently purchase a 2011 Sonata. It sounds like there is a rattle in acceleration coming from the exhaust (passenger rear)
I had the just alignment professionally checked, and it's spot on, but it seems to pull to the left still.
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2013 Sonata. What are the engine idling RPM's is when sitting at a red light? My engine seems to be a rough when sitting still.
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2011 Sonata GLS, 95,000 miles.
This just started yesterday. While driving, the RPMS suddenly drop off. Depressing the gas pedal doesn't command any power output, even if I floor it, the RPMS continue decreasing and there is absolutely no power. The only way to keep moving is to completely release the pedal and then depress it again.
The transmission has been serviced twice by me and shifts smoothly. Should I plug a scan tool in ?
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I have a 2011 GLS with about 47K.
There seems to be an issue with acceleration around 50-65MPH as the RPMs will jump as if to hesitate between gears (just my assumption). Maybe driving style/conditions as I live in West-Central Florida?
I'm the original owner and we have two of the same vehicles.
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A few days ago I started my car, and as the idle was slowly dropping down from ~1500rpm, the whole thing started shaking a bit at 1250rpm. Enough to where I could feel it and my soda was vibrating like Godzilla was walking down the street. I can easily reproduce it by pushing the pedal just enough to get it to 1250 rpms.
The car has just over 3k miles on it, I did the intake filter mod on mine, and I'm wondering if that has something to do with it. Can a few of you who have the 2.4L engine, try to test it out for me? If you bring the engine to 1250rpms, is there a noticeable shake? If not, it must be the intake filter, and I will replace the factory airbox.
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