Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Slight Pulsation In Pedal When Fully Stopped
Oct 11, 2013
I have a 2013 sonata gls and I bought it new, it only has 4,000 km on it. I don't know if this has always happened and I am just noticing now or just all of a sudden occurred but when I was stopped at a red light today and I had my defrost on, (heat fan on) it felt like my gas pedal there was a slight pulsation that I could feel. I also noticed earlier in the summer when the ac is on it seems like the car pulsates as well or the engine just sounds rougher. It seems to go away when the ac or heater fan is on 0. Is this an issue or serious problem? Why this is occurring?
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Ever since I took my 18" wheels off for the winter and put the stock VW 16's with snow tires I have on multiple occasions almost rear ended the car in front of me when I experienced what seemed like a loss of brake pressure. The brake pedal did not feel spongy or anything but often in this situation the abs brakes seem to kick in for no reason. I feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal which I can only assume is an activation of abs. I'm wondering if this slight pulsation (1 second duration ) is causing my brakes to be less effective. The pavement has been completely dry and I was not traveling fast enough, nor pressing the brakes hard enough to cause the tires to lock and trip the abs.
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The car is a 2000 Intrigue with 3.5L engine.
The problem is: about once a month the gas pedal won't go down when trying to move forward after the car has come to a full stop. Feels like I'm stepping on a rock when I step on the pedal. Then I tap on the pedal with my foot a few times and the pedal will go down smoothly, car accelerates and everything feels normal until it happens again.
Where to look for the interference if that is what it is? Also,I tried to cause this hard pedal to happen & have been unable to do so.
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I took my car in to get this checked out, but they say they can't hear it.
Sometimes when I turn my car on right after I turn it on, there's a loud humming sound like a compressor or something is kicking on and it's not fully engaging. And it only makes the sound for maybe 3-5 secs. Sometimes it won't happen when I turn the car on, but when I'm driving and I let off the gas and go to touch the brakes, it'll start.
The best I can describe it is a 'hum'...but it's loud, and I can feel it as if it's near the gas pedal right behind the firewall.
Dealer thought maybe it was the ABS switch testing itself..but they could never reproduce....I got in after they replaced my rims and checked it...and it did it 4 times when I started it, then turned it off. He came out to check, and it was almost as if you couldnt hear it outside of the car.
So, what the sound might be...I can't reproduce it anytime I'm there. Figures...... but I hear it almost daily. He put some foam tape on the firewall behind the gas lines saying the 'pulsing' from them might be doing it...but it did it again this morning.
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I was just wondering if you all experienced a slight vibration of the car when stopped at a stoplight. I experienced a slight shaking of the car when I am at a stoplight especially feel it at the driver seat. I have about 300 miles on the car so far. Not sure if it is just part of the break in period? I only experience it when the car is stopped.
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My Camry XLS have pulsation when brake pedal is applied. The pulsation get increased with the speed and very noticeable at 60 -70 mph.
Is it front or rear break issue ? If you think rotors has to be re-surfacesd should I also change pads ?
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My car is a 2004 Toyota Camry LE 2.4L. I've been having a brake pulsation problem with my car for few months. I feel the vibration on the pedal and also on the steering wheel when I brake at high speeds. And also I feel like the pedal goes too low and not responsive enough.
So I took the car to a local shop 3 days ago and they told me that the front rotors are bad and have to be replaced. They installed new Wagner front brake rotors and pads. But still I get the same problems described above. Today I drove on the highway and got the same vibration both on pedal and steering when I apply brakes.
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I have a 2011 RX350 and like car for the most part. Something strange I have noticed is that the gas pedal seams to have some little vibration when I am pressing it smoothly. My foot is constant on the gas pedal maybe 1/4 of the way down and it doesn't feel smooth like other vehicles. I have a 2014 lex IS250 and it doesn't have that vibration. Also had a 2004 RX330 and it did not have that vibration. It is a slight vibration that ruins the luxury driving experience.
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I noticed a pulsating feeling when I applied the brakes in my 2001 Ford Focus. I figure that it might be warped rotors, but after driving the car for a while, it seems to have dissipated. The car was sitting around for a few weeks. I read that it could just be rust buildup, but I feel that would require more than a few weeks of sitting around. Is there any way to check for myself, short of taking off the rotor?
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I have two Hyundais - 2011 Sonata SE and a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. here is my problem with the Santa Fe.
Brakes: Changed front rotors and pads - rear had the rotors resurfaced and installed new pads. Still get a lot of pulsation when stepping on brake pedal. Is there anything else I should be checking?
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I have been having troubles with my 2016 GTI clutch. There has always been a gritty/sandy feeling while disengaging/engaging from the first day.
On top of it, this weekend I noticed that there is a vibration/pulsation in the pedal at higher rpm (3000+), as this weekend my car was close to the break-in 1000 miles, so wanted to take it out for some spirited driving.
While shifting 2-3, 3-4 at 3000-4000 rpm, I can feel a rough pulsation in the pedal (no noise) when the pedal is around mid-way pressed.
I further experimented, to see if this happens in neutral, so parked the car with E-brakes, and then pressed gas pedal, and pumped the clutch. Have the same rough pulsation/vibration.
I took it to the dealer (right infront of my workplace), and they said this is normal, "you are just feeling the engine from your clutch"...
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I had a front brake job done on a 2002 Dodge Dakota pickup at 85000 miles. When I stepped on the brake, I felt pulsation in the pedal and a sort of wobbly feeling in the steering wheel. Also the brakes were making noises while driving. Classical sign of a warped rotor?! Long story short brand new rotors, brake pads and calipers, later the pulsation is mostly gone but the braking is still not smooth at one point while the tires are turning. Now i do have to older tires on the front but i just bought two brand new tires for the rear. Would it be wise to put the new tires on front to see if there might be some unevenness caused by the old tires before i take it back to the shop?
Also the feeling of the brakes catching on one point seems non existent or so minimal I can not be sure if the road surface interfering while driving slow of applying the brakes gently. But slowing down from higher speeds (above 40 mph) and using more then gentle braking ( not standing on the pedal with both feet) it is definitely there. Before the brake job braking caused the steering turning right. (sign of more braking action on the right - right?). Now with new stuff still pulls to the right but not as strongly. Should not this disappear with the brake job? Or get the new tires on front and see what gives?
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My car 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3 litre's throttle pedal stopped responding and the check engine light turned on I scanned the codes came back bad TPS and Pedal Position Sensor so I changed both disconnected the positive battery terminal but still no throughout pedal response and I'm getting P2106, P1295, P0638 and pending codes P0222 and P2135. I'm at a complete loss as to what to do.
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I own a 2012 Sonata GLS -Automatic with about 66K on it.
So I don't know if it's the cold weather or what, but there is some light 3 second rattling going on from under the hood which has made me nervous. (seems to be coming from left side where the belts are - facing the hood- )
Two days ago, the malfunction light came on. The car stalled for a brief few seconds. Wife turns off and turns car on. She gets it moving. An hour later, I find an error read back: P0014 -Exhaust ( Camshift Position Timing - Over-Balanced (Bank 1). I took it to the mechanic, we replaced the oil and filter. Light goes away. No stalls since.
Still the rattling is there. Today as I was driving home, the car had a very slight chug, almost as if the car put on the brakes on its own, for about a split second. I was not shifting gears.
I am due for an alignment. Don't know if that has anything to do with it.
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2008 F250 Crew Cab 5.4, 79K miles, had new brake pads installed at 40K miles. Recently, I noticed front end shudder and some pedal pulsation while braking. It started kind of sudden. My first thought was a warped rotor.
When I took things apart, I found passenger side front rotor was cracked and the caliper pistons were rusted and falling apart, the old pads were only worn about half way. My thoughts on a bad rotor were confirmed, and then some.
I replaced the broken caliper, both front rotors, installed new pads on all four wheels, and bled the brakes. To my surprise, the brake shuddering did not go away. I'm stumped.
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Sometimes mine shifts nice and quick, but sometimes it also shifts soft and slowly with a slight "flare" between shifts. Seems like it shifts better the harder I drive it, but I try not to drive like that. Dealer says everything seems normal to them. Maybe it's the adaptive transmission?
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When I'm idling my car at a stop, I notice a slight vibrating through the car... The vibration could also be felt through the steering wheel.
Not a major issue. Tried pushing car into neutral to see if it made a difference... Nothing.
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Is this normal on automatic transmission cars? I've read around the web and some say its normal and some say, before parking, to engage the parking brake first, THEN shift into park. Then when leaving, shift the car into reverse, then release the parking brake.
I follow this process and noticed it doesn't work all the time or make much of a difference. Do I shift into neutral first, then reverse, when leaving, before releasing the parking brake?
I've drained and refilled the ATF 2x...
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So, I have had this weird incident happen a couple times. The first time it happened was probably a month or so after getting the car (2013 Sonata 2.0T Limited). I was parked on our driveway, and it's on an incline. I started it up, but the brake pedal was super hard to push down. Once the car started, everything felt fine, and other than a casual "Huh, that was weird." I didn't really think anything of it. Have been without incident for months.
Then today, it happened twice. Parked in the same spot, started the car fine this time, but I went to turn it around in the driveway and almost took out our shrubs because I went to brake and the pedal was stuck. Pushed down really hard and got the car to stop. Put it in park, and tested the pedal a couple times... everything was fine. Was nervous, but took the car anyways. Happened again in the afternoon. Got out of the store and thought I was going to be stranded in the parking lot because this time the pedal was stuck and at first I couldn't start the car. Luckily, it eased up when I pushed down hard and it started, then all was fine again.
I have done a little looking and saw vacuum booster and master cylinder mentioned for possibilities, though no one's experience that I have seen sounds just like mine, nor did I find any that are Sonata YF specific. I already got my switch recall taken care of, so this is something different. Only 7,000 miles on the car. Gonna bring it in to the dealer this week, but just wanted to crowd source opinions in case they can't replicate the problem. I hate feeling like I can't trust my vehicle... especially when it's almost brand new.
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I recently purchased a 2011 Sonata GLS with a manual transmission--it has a mere 15k miles on it. I'd have to say that after driving it around for a bit I really don't like the gas pedal or the clutch pedal as compared to my old Honda, and my friend's new VW. The gas pedal is super sensitive--I feel like 90% of the throttle is in the first 10% of movement. I'm traveling at 60 mph and it feels like the pedal is only depressed 1/8 inch.
It's kind of the opposite for the clutch pedal. It grabs fine, that is, I can feel the engagement point perfectly, but there is so much travel. I feel like I lift my knee to my chest and have to push the clutch through feet of travel. More literally though, I can't just do most of the work by rotating my foot on the heel--I have to lift my entire leg. I prefer cars with much less travel and think the Elantra was pretty good in fact.
I don't have an eco mode since it's a manual so that rules out desensitizing the gas pedal by those means... Is there any way to reduce the sensitivity of the gas pedal, and to maybe reduce the total overall travel of the clutch pedal? It has to be reliable and safe..
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Driving home today and all of a sudden, hot air... I stopped and turned the car off then back on, hoping to reset something. Still nothing.
It almost sounds as if I can't even hear the compressor kick on when I turn on the AC button.
Looks like I'm heading to the dealership tomorrow to see if this is still under warranty. Really upset being that this car is only two years old.
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