I just bought this car (2000 miles) and I have noticed that it shifts gears oddly (hard to describe) and I get thumps and jolts in the transmission at low speeds, parking lot driving, going from reverse to drive.
Any knowledge of this transmission and it is possible there is something wrong?
Three days ago my Outback started making this grinding/rattling (hard to describe) noise when shifting and cruising at low speeds. Is this the clutch or the transmission? No trouble shifting though. I got rear-ended by a big Lexus SUV last week, but wouldn't think that would have anything to do with it. Just damaged the bumper a little.
View 1 RepliesThis has been happening for the past 6 months or so. I recently had new ball joints, 4 wheel alignment, and 4 wheel balance. Even with this I'm noticing a very slight high frequency vibration at highway speeds. I noticed on one of the front wheels that a weight fell off, so this might explain the high speed vibration.
However - When I'm starting at 0mph, and accelerate to say 50mph for example, the car vibrates rather substantially as the speedometer moves from around 25mph to just past 30mph. After those speeds it goes away.
I've also noticed that it tends to be worse if I'm going up hill, which, according to the laws of physics, would tell me that going uphill would put more pressure on the front end, given it's heavier with the engine there. If I'm going downhill it vibrates much less.
When I drive I tend to not accelerate quickly, meaning, I don't 'punch' it, and accelerate gradually instead. If I'm driving on a level, well-paved road, and accelerate quicker than regular, the vibration seems to not be as heavy.
Any other tests for this? Struts, control arm, steering knuckle, drive shaft ?
My 2004 Outback power steering was growling and squealing, but it was working ok at the time. I decided to replace the power steering pump before it completely failed and 3 hours later I was done. the growling and squealing was gone. However, when I backed the car out it was hard to steer at first. When I got going it all worked great, until I turned at the corner... hard steering again. When I got around the corner and up to speed everything is great again. The problem did not go away with time. Every time I turn at idle there seems to be no power steering. What is going on?
View 6 RepliesI purchases a 2012 Subaru Outback i2.5 Premium in January. The car has been stalling out after getting gas; I've put gas in it about 10 times, and it's stalled out or nearly stalled out after 4 or 5 of those times. The first time it happened I had to have the car towed back to the dealer. At the time, they thought it was bad gas, but the repetition of the problem has them stumped. There are no warning lights or error codes. I have had the car back to the dealer on four occasions, and unfortunately they can't replicate, find, or correct the problem. Now Subaru is involved. The car also runs rough and shifts rough, compared to the identical 2012 Outback I was given as a loaner the last time I had it in.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2013 Outback that has since new chugged and has had a feeling of not going smoothly through the gears up to around 30 mph (mainly around 20-25 mph). Since it occurs intermittently the first two times into the dealer to fix it they found nothing wrong but on the third time back in they found that Subaru sent it out from the factory with 1/2 quart too much tranny fluid. Dealer drained to the proper level but I am still noticing the same symptoms only not as bad as before. Took it back for fourth time and after they drove it for a total of 10 miles and hooked it up to the computer they said they could find nothing wrong. My question is driving it 10,000 miles with 1/2 qt too much tranny fluid going to have caused damage or possible future damage to seals, etc. When I asked the Service Manager that he responded that I had plenty of warranty left.
View 2 RepliesMy 2001 subaru outback wagon when put in park doesn't shift out of that position unless I access the little hole for releasing the shift module and put it into gear. What is the problem? The fuse for the transmission is good. outside fuse box.
View 1 RepliesTwo weeks ago I bought a new 2012 Outback. While driving in the manual auto mode, the cruise started flashing, the check engine came on, the traction control light came on and the brake light was on. The dealer said it was because I did not tighten the gas cap, letting air in. They reset it but a few days later it came back on again and this time they said it was miss fire code. Since they couldn't figure out the issue, they did the right thing and traded it in for another, identical 2012 Outback. Now, 8 days later, all the same lights have come on.
View 7 RepliesMy husband I purchased a 2012 Subaru Outback May 2012, we notice a hesitation when we first drove it and couple weeks later it started stalling out, now it stalls about every other day, we have noticed that ours is after a 15 to 20 minute stop and go traffic and then when your able to drive at normal speeds without stopping, and then stop it stalls out, we have rough idle and transmission acts like it is trying to shift but I know this isnt possible with a CVT transmission.
View 5 RepliesI have a Subaru 2012 2.5i Outback with cvt transmission. The car has close to 60000 miles. For the last year when the car changes gears at mph over 20 sometimes there is a short screeching noise. It happens at different speeds over 20mph. Because it is intermitant I have not pursued it with the dealer. But now I am approaching the 60,000 cvt guarantee and I took it to the dealer. They test drove it and could not get the screeching noise to appear. I told them it happens more when it is wet and cold outside.
View 6 RepliesMy 2000 Subaru Outback (75,000 miles) runs well almost all of the time. Every so often, especially when the weather is cold and I have been making many short trips, the transmission will refuse to engage into any of the forward gears (Auto-Trans). It will do reverse, no trouble, but not the forward ones. It does not do this with any sort of regularity or consistency. I have had it checked by my mechanic and he said that although it did this it sounded fine and was not shifting roughly. Thinking it might be a fluid pressure problem, he put in fluid additive to soften the seals and this worked for about a week, then back to square one. I saw enough notes posted on other forums by other Subaru owners to know that this might be an issue with this year's model--maybe some sort of quirk that I hope can be fixed without a new trans.
View 5 RepliesI bought my 2003 Forester a year ago from a friend with 90,000. I love this car, I put a new timing belt on it and off we went. The car worked fantastically from January to August 2011. One night I was driving to watch a show and rather then shifting into gear, it jolted. Pulled over, checked fluids and so on, car worked normally for a while. It started doing this more frequently. It has a hard time shifting into 2nd and when it does, (at about 40MPH) it jolts and same thing for third and so on. I took it to my mechanic but it never misbehaved for him sop I took it back and drove some more and dropped it off at a transmission shops. They get it to do what it does, ran many tests, decided it was the throttle sensor, replaced it, car worked great for two weeks and then reverted back to this behavior. Took it in again three times but they can't seem to figure it out. Anyway, I have taken the car to five different mechanics and no one can quite figure it out. So my car, the Diva, as I like to refer to her, continues to jolt to shift gears. If I put it into reverse it will shift normally until I stop again or slow way down. I am stumped and sad because I love my car. It now has 101,000 and I want it to be kind to me.
View 5 Replies2015 Outlook 2.5 CVT - Regardless of engine temp/or oil temp, transmission will stay in low gears (relative - its a CVT) such that the car is always doing approx. 2100 RPMs. When it occurs, 35mph is 2100 RPMs; when problem is not present, same speed would be approx 1200 RPMs. Same for higher speed. 45mph would be 2100 verses approx 1400rpm. Gear indicator does indicate a '4' or '5' when it would normally be '6'.
Outside temps in excess of 30 degress - no evidence of problem. Below 30, may or may not happen. No check engine light and it does affect MPG significantly.
My 1998 1.5 auto revs and thumps when engaging gears when cold, have read in other forums about similar probs and some say a sensor problem?. Transmission has been replaced bout 10,000km ago by previous owner maybe didn't need to be but not sure. Seems ok later in day when hot, has had fluid changed with recent service
View 3 RepliesAs I was changing my oil last week I noticed that there was a thick, dark green fluid near my front left shock and on the automatic transmission filter. The fluid appeared to be sprayed on the underbody of the car. I am unable to notice any change in automatic shifting or in the front left shock. The photo shows the filter (?transmission filter) on the top, the shock is at the bottom right. This is slightly behind the left front tire. This was not anywhere else under the car and did not appear to be road grime.
View 4 RepliesMy '04 Lariat 4x4 5.4L SCAB w/ 167k miles is giving me problems primarily while in O/D around 50-70 mph. When I lightly lean into the throttle either to slightly increase speed or maintain speed while going up an incline I get some jolting coming from the tranny. It's not a one time jolt when it downshifts but a repetitive jolt while staying in the same gear.
It doesn't happen until the engine is up to normal operating temperature and happens almost exclusively when O/D is engaged. It's thrown a code which I'm going to have pulled today while at lunch (will follow up with the code once I know what it is). When the check engine light has come on I can push the O/D button to go into 3rd gear and it will still shimmy the truck a bit but when I go back into O/D it seems to calm down.
I'm thinking it's s sensor and I'm aware there are a few that talk to the tranny. What could be causing it. It started late last summer but has progressively gotten worse. It's a daily occurrence and road conditions and outside temp don't appear to make it worse or better. One more thing to note is that the jolting is significantly worse when in 4x4 high which makes sense since it's affecting both the front and rear axles assuming it's coming from the tranny.
So we have a new 2011 Tiguan with about 3,300 miles. I noticed a while ago that when coming to a stop, or rolling a few feet and stopping the driveline would almost "thump" when stopped. You can feel it like the torque converter is releasing, or it's engaging a gear and almost moving forward a bit. The other day it seemed to be getting worse, and it's very repeatable as an issue. This is our second Tiguan, the previous being 4motion and this one being FWD.
View 24 RepliesI have a 06 toyota tacoma 4x4 automatic that thumps like it goes into gear after i come to a stop. it also vibrates at speeds from 0-35 and 35-0. what could be wrong?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 F-150 4x4 SC with a 4R70W. As a a couple weeks ago the transmission (or so I think) is slipping. When I take off from a red light the truck is shuttering. I also can be driving along at 55-60 mph and the truck jolts and shutters. I was reading some other threads and some guys think it could be a misfire, but since mine does it from a stand still i don't think it is. Just throwing that out there because it could be a factor, but once again I don't know.
View 10 RepliesWhenever I would make a tight, low-speed right turn you could hear two or three solid thumps from the steering rack/front suspension area. I figured this wasn't good for the car only having 600 miles on it at the time, so I took it over to the dealership, and they told me this...
I know a little bit about cars, but what that means. The service advisor told me that it was a "rubber boot or bushing nearly the steering rack that was sagging." I don't really see how that relates to them tearing the glovebox and dash apart...but they clipped something in, I can't hear it anymore and apparently the part is on order.
I had a 2013 Elantra that I traded in for my new Accent. The last 6 months that I had my Elantra, the transmission was slipping like crazy. Mostly when it was cold, and at lower speeds. I started noticing this while the car only had 20000 km's on it. Personally, I think it had something to do with contaminants in the fluid. I told the dealership this but they just kind of dismissed it and said it probably just had something to do with the ECU messing up the shift timing or something to that extent. They made an "adjustment" but the problem didn't go away.
It got me thinking that since an automatic transmission has so many parts, wouldn't it be fair to say that metal particles from all these newly machined pieces and edges could have some initial deterioration causing a build-up of contaminants? I think a transmission flush would've resolved the issue. That's a lot cheaper than a full tranny swap down the road while the car is still under warranty, isn't it Hyundai? It's their problem now though.