Suburban :: 99 - Rear Passenger Door Lock Will Not Move


Oct 25, 2004

Have a '99 K1500 Suburban. My passenger rear door lock will not move. It is very difficult to pull up the lock in order to open the door. The keyless entry and master door lock does not work on this door. None of the other locks seem to have trouble. Does this sound like something is bent or need cleaning?? Or could it be the actuator?? Doesn't seem to be electrical because the lock will not move??

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I have a problem with my 2011 sonata, the rear passenger side door lock will not unlock. Whether I use the key fob, the internal door unlock button or the buttons on the door handles from the outside. I can't even get the door open to take the panel off.

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My '99 Passat 1.8T has an intermittent problem with the electric door locks. The rear passenger lock sometimes doesn't lock, but I can always get it working by unlocking it with the remote and relocking it.

The driver door lock is now really the problem. It mostly doesn't work - in fact, not at all over the last week or so. What is the most likely cause? How much trouble is it to take apart the entire door to get to it? I have had the door panel off which isn't too bad, but the rest of it looks tough.

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My 2004 V50, all the doors and boot lock except for the rear drivers side passenger door.

I have tried pushing the door knob down and this wont budge either, took the door card off and can hear a clicking when you press the key fob but thats it lock does not move?

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My buddy just picked up a 2007 passat 2.0t. Upon bringing it home and locking it we noticed the horn didn't beep indicating an active alarm. I discovered the rear passenger door wasn't locking, and when opening it, even though the alarm was activated, the alarm didn't go off. The door unlock/lock switch as well as the window switch both aren't working. Can't open the window from the driver's door switch either.

I'm guessing it's probably something to do with the power to the door since it's completely unresponsive. Where would we be able to check if power is going to the door? Also, since the alarm doesn't go off when opened is there a sensor somewhere that says when the door is open and or locked?

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Toyota - Sienna :: 2002 - Rear Hatch And Passenger Door Lock Would Not Open With The Key

I have had that car, the best one I have ever owned, since shortly after Nine-One-One, a date some of you may remember.

I never open any door but the driver's door with the key. Several months ago, for some reason it occurred to me to try and see if they worked.

Nope, both the rear hatch and passenger's door lock would not open with the key. I assumed that the mechanism corroded up over lack of use over the years.

I thought, Well, crud. But, since I haven't used those door locks in over 12 years, I can probably get by.

I thought I had lost the spare car key when I was in Texas in December. To my surprise, I saw it on the key rack in the kitchen here in rural Mexico. I took it out to the car to check it out, and it opens all the doors.

I compared the keys, and one of the 'vanes' on the key I use all the time is a very tiny bit smaller than on the spare key. My guess is either that key never opened those two doors and I never noticed it. Or, it has worn over 12 years.

So, I guess when I get back to the States, I will have a copy made of the spare key. I am also going to post this on Sienna Chat for obvious reasons.

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Everything else with the door works fine. The power locks work. Even pulling the handle twice pushes the lock button to the up position. And opening the door from the outside works as it's supposed to. The only thing I cannot do is open the door from the inside. Have I missed anything?

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- I have powerlock controls on both front doors and when I try to lock/unlock all the doors, they all work properly besides that rear passenger door.
- I have checked all fuzes, they are fine.

I realize it could be the actuator? But, I can manually lock/unlock the door with no problem, so could it still be that? How do I troubleshoot to see if it is the actuator or just a wiring problem.

I have all the tools and a meter, just don't know how to troubleshoot the problem! I've done a lot of googling about this and there isn't really anything I've seen on troubleshooting to see if its wiring or actuator.

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I have search youtube and only found front door lock replacement but not the rear..

How do you go about removing the bad rear passenger side door lock actuator ??

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Simultaneously driver door lock switch does not work but door lock when shifting into drive and when shifting into park. RR passenger door lock is jammed, cannot move electrically or manually. All this at the same time!

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Chevrolet - Suburban :: How To Lube Door Lock Mechanism

1999 Suburban

Although the key slides into the lock easily, it's a bear to turn the key left and right. I tried squirting some graphite into the key hole and working it with the key but that didn't do much if anything.

Is there a way to lube the internals that a homeowner--not mechanic--can do?

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So last night I tried to lock my car door i put the key in and tried to turn it to lock it and it wouldn't move as if it were stuck or something so i had to lock it from the passenger side and this morning i went to go check it out and sprayed a little bit of WD-40 on the key and inside the part the key goes in since it wouldn't move and was stuck i thought that might have worked but instead all it did was make it worse now it just spins in circles freely without locking or unlocking my doors i have to do it from the passenger side ...

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While driving, it will come and go, it will last from 5 seconds to up to 30 seconds. While driving along, it starts, then stops abruptly without dying down. The speed of the "knocking" will follow the speed of the vehicle. If Im going slow (20 mph) it will knock at a slower pace, thus going 65, it is 2 a second. There is nothing loose, I have ruled that out.

Although it does sound like something loose and hitting. I can feel it slightly on the floorboard under the pedals and passenger side. I have to believe it is the rear u-joint? but that was replaced 2 years ago, and I have never heard of a u-joint making this noise.

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Again - if I manually push the lock it works as it should (both lock and unlock) - but it will not unlock with the FOB. I removed the door panel and everything looks good - I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the inner (black) panel so I can get to the actuator.

I can hear the actuator trying to unlock it some times - I can hear a vibration coming from the door when it tries. But again - the passenger rear works fine. I think the biggest thing I need to do now is to get behind the inner door module (black trim) to see what is going on - but I can't figure out how.

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