Tiguan :: 2.0 VW Engine - Breather Valve Stuck Causing Oil To Enter The Cylinder / Misfires
Apr 9, 2014
We have a 2009 2.0 Tiguan with approximately 60,000 miles. About 6 months ago, the check engine light came on so we took it in and found out the breather valve was stuck causing oil to enter the cylinder and causing misfires. Had this fixed an about a week later, the car acted up again. Took it in and removed & reinstalled the intake manifold. Both pricey fixes. The dealership said it was a problem with the 2.0 engine design. Now we have taken it in again to a local shop who is now informing us we will need to replace the intake manifold. He said the same thing about the engine design. Our concern is that this problem will need to be fixed on a fairly regular basis. We really love the vehicle but cannot afford the cost of this maintenance if it becomes routine and are considering trading it in for a Passat.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
I have 11 tiguan 2.0T. When I start it up is runs rough below 1200 rpm. The check engine light starts flashing. The codes are all 4 cylinders for random cylinder misfire. When I go drive it around the roughness calms down but doesn't go away and the idle will start jumping up and down. It goes to 1500 back to 800. Then 1700 back to 800. It had even hit 2400 once. I have changed the pcv about 2 months ago. I checked it and it looks fine. One place said maf. I cleaned it and no change. Running out of options.
View 2 Replies
I've got a 2009 Tiguan with 65k miles on it. A few weeks ago I noticed some issues with running rough during a cold start. I only noticed because the engine would vibrate considerably more than usually for the first few minutes of operation, and would idle at around 1050-1100rpm instead of the usual 750rpm. After warm up, things were fine. Suddenly the issue got bad real fast - wife was out and the MIL light came on, EPC light came on, and the car was running extremely rough. We managed to drive it home (2 miles) doing under 20 the whole time on side streets. Once I hooked it up to my OBD reader, I was seeing cylinder misfire codes on all four cylinders.. P0300, P0301..P0304, all five codes simultaneously.
Since the car was due for an oil change and hit 65k miles recently, I decided to throw new plugs in there to see if that would work. It did, at first.. A day or two it ran completely fine, no rough starts, no misfires, I thought I had solved the problem. The old plugs had some deposits on them and were original, so I thought I was in the clear. Two days later, same thing happened again.. EPC light, barely running and misfires on all four cylinders..
I read up some online and decided to order new ignition coils. Took a few days, but I got four new coils and threw them in. Again, problem solved it seemed. No more EPC light, misfire codes didn't come back and no more rough starts. I drove a good 40 miles with no problems at various speeds, but started noticing some misfires during acceleration (slightly rough acceleration, almost feels like a back and forth rocking motion, very slight). Sure enough, after a cold start I'm seeing the engine run a bit rough again with misfires. This time, only P0304 (misfire on cylinder 4) is thrown, and it only shows up as a "pending code" (engine light flashes for a few moments during start, but does not stay on).
I checked my connections, swapped the plugs and coils in what I thought were cylinders 3 and 4 (closer to the driver side), nothing. I swapped what I think are cylinder 1 and 2 (passenger side) just to be sure, but still nothing. At this point I'm pretty lost. I know enough to be dangerous with a carbureted engine, but am lacking in knowledge when it comes to a fuel injected turbo charged VW engine. It seems to be cylinder 4 misfiring consistently at this point according to the OBD reader.
Also of note.. I had some misfire problems last year, and had my intake manifold replaced as part of a recall (also had carbon deposits removed at the same time). Can a carbon build up occur this fast? Can it be the injectors?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2006 Jetta with a 5 speed manual transmission and 35,000 miles. The engine randomly misfires causing it to stutter or stammer. The check engine light is on and has been for several weeks. Occasionally the check engine light flashes. I took it to a local mechanic who ran a series of diagnostic tests (no vacuum leaks) and they recommended having all the ignition coils replaced for all 4 cylinders. They also replaced the fuel filter. I did so but the problem soon returned to which they referred me to the dealer.
I decided to take it to a VW specialist in town and they replaced the spark plugs for all 4 cylinders. They noticed that some of the plugs were black with a buildup and some were clean. The problem soon returned. The VW specialist also recommended that I take it to the dealership as they too had no clear idea as to what the problem is.
The car did suffer rodent damage in 2007 but was still under warranty so all the wiring that had been chewed on was replaced. I experimented using premium gas and regular gas. Premium gas seems to make the problem worse. Also, the misfires seem to lessen as the weather gets warmer. I would like to fix the problem to avoid any catastrophic failure but am trying to avoid throwing money away on any more guess work.
View 7 Replies
I have the bsh pcv fix and since the valve in the breather was making that noise, I busted the valve out.
Now I think I have a small boost leak somewhere and would like to pressurize the system but what do I use to block off the breather tube now that the check valve is gone?
I hear a little horn like toot sound around 5psi. Almost like letting a balloon full of air fly around letting the air out. How to describe it. Pretty sure it's a leak.
View 1 Replies
As far as I can tell, the rectangular breather is full of some type of stainless mesh. I cannot separate the halves. I may have pulled a bonehead move and left it tin the solvent tank and didn't realize it was still on....ofcourse it was full of solvent. Just cleaned it real well. I drained it and am going to let it dry out before install next week.
View 4 Replies
Having some trouble with my 1987 2.3L ranger - 2wd - Non AC - 107k miles.
The truck feels like its running on 3 cylinders and occasionally stalls. Motor has a pretty good shake to it while idling as well.
Recently replaced injectors, rotor, cap, wire, spark plugs. Timing belt was done approx 30k miles ago.
Put seafoam into it. Problem persists - where to go from here ?
View 3 Replies
Recently bought a 2001. In the process of reading about this engine I discovered there is a some what regular breakdown of head gaskets causing water to leak into cylinders and oil pan, all of which is serious.
Given the vehicle is 12 years old and has 89K miles it appears it is in the age and range of where this leakage can occur. Any knowledgeable engine rebuilders that are familiar with this issue on the 4.2 have any comments???
1. Can this issue be avoided by replacing head gaskets now rather than waiting for future failure???
2. Are there new and improved head gaskets for this motor???
3. Does the problem occur on both heads gaskets?
4. Is that all that needs to be done or are there other seals that need replacement???
View 9 Replies
While driving up a long hill on the highway, one of the cylinders quit firing causing a bad engine vibration and check engine light. I turned around and drove home, pulled the plugs, and found the plug closest to the passenger side had bridged. I'm not sure why; it almost looked like it melted or had some sort of physical damage. This was on a 2013 Sonata Limited 2.0t with 45000 km / 28500 miles.
Pictures here: Spark plug failure - Album on Imgur
View 6 Replies
1999 Suburban 5.7L Vortec
Symptoms: While driving after engine warm-up the engine misfires on cylinder 2 under slight load (basically whenever maintaining speed, and slight acceleration) between 1500-3000 rpm's. Backfires through exhaust when this is happening. Misfire counts on Cyl. 2 collect rapidly and only a few on Cyl. 1 but no P0301.
History: Purchased vehicle with a blown engine (intake gasket leaked coolant into engine and was hydro-locked) with the intention of using it to pull a boat or camper but never did buy either one. Replaced the engine with a new Goodwrench engine and rebuilt the tranny figuring I would drive it till the body rusted off of it. I honestly never felt that the truck ran as strong as it should have with a brand new engine but just attributed it to being as big as a cruise ship. A couple of years later started receiving multiple codes (don't remember what they were at this time) found the distributor very corroded inside due to the ear on the distributor being broken off.
Replaced the distributor, cap,rotor,plugs and wires and fixed it. About a year later, only in the summer I would start to receive the P0302 sometimes, would not happen in the winter. Did the usual plug swap, wire swap, checked spark to rule out ignition with no change. After a while the catalytic converter failed (big surprise with a missing engine) and replaced it as well as both O2 sensors on the rear bank and one on the front bank. P0302 did not change. Last year the fuel pump failed so I replaced it. This April I took the truck on a road trip to visit relatives, about 80 miles out it started backfiring through the exhaust whenever I got over 70 mph and the CEL would flash. Finished the trip babying it the whole way but now it does this all the time when warm.
Repair attempts:
* Distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs. (Due to distributor failure mentioned above.)
* Fuel pump and filter. (Due to pump failure mentioned above.)
* Upgraded fuel injection spider. (Because of GM bulletin regarding misfires and multiple failures found on the internet.)
* Repeated valve and fuel system cleanings. (Grasping at straws.)
* Removed rear bank cylinder head and sent to machine shop, All checked good. (After ruling out ignition and fuel figured it had to mechanical. Compression was good, cylinder leak down test was good. The problem seems to be temperature related so thought maybe the exhaust guide was mis-manufactured too tight causing it to drag when warmed up.)
* Crank sensor with a used one from a u-pull it place, I got too much money wrapped up in this. (Found a reference to this repairing a similar problem on another vehicle.)
One final note: After replacing the fuel injection spider the truck ran extremely well, this only lasted a few days and the problem came back. After replacing the crank sensor the truck again ran extremely well, but only for 1-2 days. What is the connection between the injection spider and the cranks sensor? The only other thing that I can think of that would create a misfire on one cylinder only is the PCM but that gets misdiagnosed so much that I don't want to jump to it unless all other options have been checked out.
View 9 Replies
so i've had my 337 for a couple months now and when i first got it i found 2 broken vacuum hoses that were causing misfires. once i got those replaced my CEL went off and seemed to be running fine other than from time to time when i started it up my idle would be around 1.2k rpms and then after a couple miles itd settle down to 750-800 rpms but it wasn't rock solid, so obviously there is still something wrong.
on my drive home tonight from work i was in the mood for some spirited driving but when i'd hit the gas i could feel some hesitation through the powerband at wide open throttle. when i got home i turned it off, and started it back up to see if it was idling funny and when it ignited the rpms jumped to almost 2k and immediately fell back down to 1.2k.
My thoughts are its either a vacuum leak again, bad/dirty maf, dirty throttle body, or a boost leak.
View 1 Replies
My 2000 Excursion, 6.8L V10 misfires when I try to start it, after a rain storm, and for the longest time, I could not figure out what was going on. After much use of a garden hose, to make rain, I found the rear two cylinder wells, on passenger side fill with water, due to a design defect in the engine hood that causes run off down that side of the engine. I visited with a mechanic, and was told that the hood design is common to a lot of the F series trucks, and the 8 and 10 cylinder engines are prone to the water buildup in the passenger rear spark plug wells. I am going to try to put a shield of some sort, around the two cylinder wells, to divert the water.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2009 Ford Focus. The ignition key can not enter the steering column cylinders unless the key is jiggled with a far amount of pushing. I took the car to the dealership in the late Fall and they replaced the ignition cylinder. This worked fine until Spring when the outside temperature got above 75 F.
I have tried using the extra key and it also will not be permitted to enter the cylinder except with a great amount of key jiggling. This problem only occurs when it is above 75 F, it is not a problem for 6 months of the year; but, I am concerned that sometime I won't be able to get the car started.
View 4 Replies
i have a 2007 toyota camry that has lost a valve on one cylinder. 3.5 engine front cylinder on the right. is this common on just a fluke?
View 9 Replies
How the cylinders are numbered as your facing the car from the front left to right (forgot the order) so I can replace coil packs on cyl 5&6 (238 misfires in 2min is not good).
View 4 Replies
I have been reading about all these horrific cases about the tensioner just giving and causing catastrophic failure. Without all the maintenance records VWoA is reluctant to support 100% even if you're still within the powertrain warranty. I understand these 20+ cases are a small population out of the entire group, but I don't want to risk being another statistical point for this topic. Just ordered the HS Tuning kit and the two snap on tools.
View 7 Replies
2005 Prius 195k miles, oil changes every 5k +/- 500 (usually minus), new plugs at about 187k, TSBs for coolant loop done, coolant valve for ICE replaced on my dime, replaced aux battery in 2010. Transaxle fluid changed at 100k and 190k due to noise, but that is another post.
I mostly do my own work because, in general, I find dealerships to charge too much (like one hour to change the aux battery) or not competent (like changing the traction battery under warranty but leaving the seat belt behind the panel or not resetting the maintenance light during 5k Toyota covered maintenance)
View 9 Replies
My 2001 Buick Lasebre is not starting properly. I have to pump the gas several times before it will start; then when it is started at low speeds or idle it wants to stall. As long as I can some how keep pushing the gas peddle it wont stall. On the other hand when I am driving at higher speeds, anything above 40 or so it runs perfect. The check engine light was on and shows EGR valve stuck open. I have replaced the Mass airflow sensor, fuel filter, and the EGR valve. I had the code cleared and a short while later my check engine light came back on with the exact same reading. I bought this car only a week ago and was not expecting to have to fix a car I just bought and ran fine while test driving it. I have read may different forum that say that it could be anything from my fuel pump to vacuum hoses, to some other sensor.
View 19 Replies
Can't find the PCV air inlet hose to the crankcase on a 5.4 3 valve V8 2006 F150. Most PCVs let air in on one bank and out the other bank on a V engine, but this engine has hoses going from BOTH banks valve covers to the intake manifold. The crankcase is under vacuum(8 inches vacuum at dipstick tube, 6 inches at each valve cover). There should be air flow in the crankcase not vacuum. No air is getting in which results in a vacuum in the crankcase.
Once the vacuum builds up enough after a few seconds when the engine is started the engine begins to whistle where air is being sucked in(can't figure out where) at a seal or gasket. If air could get in as it should there wouldn't be a vacuum in the crankcase and the engine wouldn't whistle. Where is the air inlet hose for the PCV system on the 5.4 3 valve V8? It must be clogged or blocked resulting in a vacuum. I can't find the hose and Alldata doesn't show it.
View 12 Replies
I have a 2002 Elantra that has been in shop 3xs for same thing. The car says it is missfiring on 1 and I have changed wires, coil pack and spark plugs with no success.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2004 f-150 5.4 Trition v8 and recently i had misfires on 5 and 6 come up. After I changed out the coils and injectors on all the cylinders the misfire would still come up.
View 4 Replies
