Tiguan :: 2009 VW 2.0T - Vibrate Violently When Hit 60 Mph
Oct 7, 2015
I have a 2009 VW tiguan 2.0T that vibrates violently when i hit 60mph, I mean pretty hard to the point where it doesn't feel safe to keep accelerating and everything inside not attached starts to rattle. Regardless Ive driven it to 100+ to see if it vibrates on higher gears and it does. I also have cruised on neutral downhills and stills vibrates the same.
So far this is what I have had it:
-Aligned and balanced tires twice.
-Had inspected and replaced both of the axles with new OEM parts.
-Had overall suspension inspected and everything seems fine.
-Checked the bearings by two different professionals, one used a dynamometer. came out fine
So far nothing has worked, and I am afraid or actually in denial that it might be something major with the transmission. I've researched and read various post around the web but i have not found anything beyond checking and/or replacing the the aforementioned parts.
I inadvertently hit 85 mph driving on an downhill interstate road and the vibration stopped, but came back again as soon as I slowed down to 60-80. Lets me to believe that there is something wrong with one of the transmission gears, probably 3th or 4th.
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I drive a 2004 Honda Pilot with 110,000 miles. At low speeds (less than 30 mph) over a bumpy road, the car undercarriage will vibrate violently. It happens only occasionally and stops immediately when I slow down. I assume it's a suspension problem but not sure of the exact cause. I also can't figure out why it doesn't happen all the time under those same conditions.
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I have a FWD 2009 Sienna with 62k that vibrate on cold days. It only vibrate when the shifter is on drive or reverse while stepping on the brake. There is no vibration while driving, only when I'm at a stop light. After the engine warms up, the vibration goes away. I can feel the vibration on the steering wheel. I just want some kind of knowledge before taking it in.
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My '11 has almost 60,000 miles on it and I've turned the front rotors down once already for a vibration at 42,000 miles. Front pads looked good at that time, but I'm pretty sure the brakes are otherwise all original (2nd owner). Not feeling it in the pedal but starting to get a steering wheel vibration when I touch the brakes above 60mph and I figure they will be getting due sooner than later- though I still have not pulled the rears down to check them.
Whats the consensus on replacement brake parts? Is OEM the way to go? I figure any decent ceramic pad set should be fine but what about rotors, OEM, raybestos, wearever, etc? I know everybody wants USA made but realistically price is a major factor. I can get Raybestos advanced rotors and pro pads shipped from rockauto for slightly more than wearever pads and rotors from advanced- is it worth it? Or are the OEM rotors notably more durable?
Keep in mind this truck sees light to empty loading 99.5% of the time and the stock front rotors needed turned at 42,000 and are starting to show signs again at under 60,000.
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I recently bought a used 2010 Toyota Corolla s with around 79000 miles on it. It's an automatic and everything drives good but just one thing that has been annoying me. The problem is that when I come to a complete stop and stop there for a a while, the idle slowly drops from 650 to 600.
When this happens the car engine starts to vibrate excessively and you could feel it on your feet and steering wheel. When I turn a load on, the rpm rises and the vibration goes away.
I have cleaned the throttle body, checked the mounts and it's good, no cracks, cleaned MAF sensor, reset the idle by unplugging battery, took it in to the dealership and they said it is normal. I believe it's not normal.
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My mother-in-law just bought a 2009 Tiguan, and she's just over 5k miles. I looked in the owner's manual, and in booklet 1.1, page 37, it looks like service is every 5k miles, just like on my A4 and my wife's Passat. However, the dealer is telling me that VW recommends 10k service on the Tiguan. What am I missing? Is the dealer wrong? Am I misunderstanding the Owner's Manual?
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I have been running the APR stage 1 for about 10 months. Yesterday, my vehicle refused to start. I got in the car and turned the key, The console lit up as usual, the second I tried to crank all the lights and display went off and the vehicle refused to crank. I suspected the battery, and tried jump-starting using a booster. While the engine cranked, it refused to start. I finally had it towed to the dealer.
First the dealer suspected battery issues. But today he calls and tell me they are going to have to replace the ECM. They claim they are not able to communicate with the ECU at all, and when they connected an ECU from another Tiguan and apparently that worked. Dealer claims its because of the tune.
The symptoms as I saw it - When I turned the key to the ACC position (with the Batt-booster connected) the console lights up as usual. If you keep it there, the lights also go out one after the other in the regular order. I was under the assumption this should mean the ECU is working and the circuits/sensors are passing the self-test. The MID, radio, seatbelt chimes etc - everything works with the booster/jumper connected - except it wont start
Therefore - can it be the ECU?
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I have a 2009 SEL (NA) that doesnt have the convenience settings on the MFD, I have read this can be enabled at the dealership or through VAG-Com. Although my user manual states I can access it (which i cant) should i take this up with the dealer to enable the feature?
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My 2009 Tiguan SEL with 120,000 miles is going through oil like crazy--quart a month with normal driving. More if under load--drive in mountains. We have massive amount of oil on driveway. So much I've had to put down oil dry.
The oil appears to be coming from the turbo. I noticed it on the back firewall and back of the engine near the upper timing cover. I took it in to mechanic and he confirmed the oil is blowing out of the turbo. He said a remanufactured turbo from VW runs about $1250 and it'll be roughly $1200 labor to install and clean the intake side.
The Tiguan has been a pain. Just replaced the air conditioner compressor over the summer. That was $1200. Have had two intake manifolds installed due to misfires. One was at my cost, the other VW's. Ballast on driver side Xenon headlamp went. Had to take the entire front off to get under headlamp assembly to replace that. And then there are those water leaks from the poorly designed sunroof drain tubes. I've replaced all four of them myself. They're about due to be replaced again.
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I have a 2009 Tiguan SE 4Motion with a little over 82K miles on it. Hard to pin point exactly but somewhere around 65 - 68K the vehicle started shaking, noticeably but not ridiculously while driving at a decent speed, 50 mph seems to be the speed where it's most notable. I took it to the dealer and they diagnosed it as the tires needed to be replaced. I had the tires replaced a few K later but the shake was the same. I took it back to the dealer who did the basic balance troubleshooting but they were unable to find anything. I pressed them and they did some additional troubleshooting but then I felt like I was wasting my time with that dealer because they started looking at the floor and talking nonsense about road conditions.
I feel the shaking regardless of road surface or speed, noticeable but not violent, 50mph and steady seems to be most noticeable. I feel that it is transmission/drive train related because everything else it could be has been checked or changed but I could be wrong. I feels like it's directly under the vehicle, I have sat in different seats while someone else drove and it doesn't seem to be more noticeable on one side or another. When on the highway going a steady speed on it will increase and decrease seemingly randomly. It hasn't really gotten any worse over the past 15K miles or I would have brought it to a different dealer, but it really bothers me, especially since my Tiguan was so smooth when I bought it.
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My Tig came with 17's ... I purchased 19" Savannahs but now my TPMS is on.
I pumped up the PSI to 38 even and its on still ( blinks for a min then solid on ).
Is this likely needing resetting? One dealer told me the sensors may need changing?
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I am trying to trace down an issue with my 2009 Tiguan, auto. Its in regards to a stutter I notice in the vehicle at a certain speed/rpm. Almost appears if it doesn't want to shift and unless you really give it. The car certainly still has the power and all, this is also more noticeable on colder days. Today I stopped by the dealer where the vehicle was originally purchased as I am the 2nd owner and they provided me a complete print out of all the service history of the vehicle (quite informative).
Reading through it I found that the not even 6000 km the intake manifold was replaced under warranty they scanned for error P0215. This was on August 2014. They also replaced the injectors during this service.
And then also back in Dec. 2010, 70000km ago they replaced the manifold runner assembly and manifold for the first time.. Appears that they replaced the manifold on this car twice now.. Could this be my cause for the stutter?
Hard to believe that the same part would be getting replaced on a car within 60000km twice..
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So i have a 09 tiguan with 112000 kms. and lately i have been having problems with the transmission. i am getting a vibration upon acceleration and it acts up with its shifting like switching gears every once and a while like its hunting for a correct gear. this problem has been getting steadily worse. Is there anything i should know about these transmissions that is common to go on them that would cause this. the car is not beat on and i tried to get vw to do a filter and fluid change but they refused to stating it is a sealed unit and the do not touch it.
Is this a software issue (i highly doubt it) as i did a tb reset and it made it a bit better. i am at a loss with this car it is costing me a fortune. One last thing i had the prnd letters light up solid one time a while ago upon starting but it only did it once and never did it again. I am pretty sure this says there is a fault if i am not correct.
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My Tiguan runs really well for the most part. I do have a slight issue that happens above 2200 RPM or so that seems to be getting worse as time passes. With little effort on flat road, the car runs flawlessly. Up a slight incline or light grade on the freeway it gets an intermittent misfire or stumbles periodically (getting more frequent). It smooths out and has a ton of power with heavier acceleration.
It doesn't always happen (though more often than not lately), doesn't throw a code, ambient temp doesn't effect it, happens rain or shine and engine temp doesn't change it. The only code I get from time to time is P2181 (coolant performance), but I can't see that being the issue and it stays happy right around 190ish. Gas mileage is not effected, getting around 27-28 MPG average. Using 91 octane Shell gas. I did a Seafoam induction cleaning since it started happening and Seafoam in the tank with no change. Seems to happen in all gears. if I stay below 2200 RPM it never occurs. The car has about 68,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2009 TSI/2WD with 68k miles on it which we bought brand new. The car has been relatively trouble free for all these years and my wife loves the car.
Middle of the last December my wife calls me and tells me the "Check Engine" light came on while she was driving.I told her if there is no unusual noises or any warning lights blinking drive the car home and I'll take a look at it when I get home.She said everything looks normal and nothing unusual.
Long story short,I came home scanned it with VAG-COM,found random misfire codes and spotted the oil leak on the garage floor and saw where it was coming from.Yeah you guessed it right, it was the Crank Shaft seal.
I went ahead and replaced it with new one from the dealer and a new PCV breather too.Started the car after I finish No leak,No check engine and everything was fine.
Until two weeks ago again the check engine light came on.went ahead scanned again and this time it was P0300,P0302(RANDOM AND CYL.#2). There was no visible misfire that I could feel so I cleared the MIL.I also did swap the coils to make sure it wasn't coil related and again it stayed the same as before.Spark plugs have been replaced 3 months ago,so that's not it either.
After couple of days of my wife driving it,I noticed that the MIL always comes on when she starts the car after it was driven and the engine was hot or warmed up, so after a lot of searching and reading online forums,I came to conclusion that it must be the valves and it's"DE CARB" time.
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I would like to know how you adjust the headlight height on your Tig. Does it have an electrical control/wheel on the dashboard or are there any different ways of adjusting.
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I have a 2009 VW Tiguan SE with about 85K on it. Yesterday driving to work the alternator/ac belt broke, after replacing the belt the AC compressor will not turn on. The AC was running fine up until the belt broke, so far I have checked all the fuses and the codes, no bad fuses and no codes. I read in the manual about a compressor shaft overload protection but it doesn't go into detail what this is or how to reset it. I could imagine that since the belt broke while the AC was on the system could think there is an issue with the compressor and shut it off but I can't figure out what to check or how to reset it. The AC system was checked a few months ago and has been producing cold air so I don't think there is a coolant level issue.
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I have a 2009 SEL 4 Motion w/ RNS 510, MDI.
I am very happy with the car apart from the quality of the sound system. Coming from Audi, BMW earlier being used to their premium systems, the Dynaudio in the Tiguan is not doing it for me. There is the lack of midrange dynamics and no punch in the low tones. What would be the best way to increase the quality w/o paying too much? Also, where in the Pennsylvania/New York area are there good shops that could do such job?
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I have a 2009 Tig with the APR flash. I had the flash done in 2010 in Edmonton. I have enjoyed it for the last two years. BUT this summer while on vacation the car developed a slight stutter on acceleration. When i reset the computer to stock the stutter goes away. What is failing or how I can repeat it with the stock setting so that the dealer can fix it and I can turn the APR tune back on.
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My wife's 2009 Tiguan has 72k miles and is a pretty good commuter. But it has been hot here in Texas, which may have attributed to this problem.
After about 5 minutes of idling, there is a loud screeching noise.
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My dad has an 09 Fwd tsi with a tiptronic that will on occasion refuse to upshift. The EPC light will come on and it will not shift into 2nd gear. Manual upshifting is possible. Usually the next time he starts the car it works fine. Recently had the throttle body replaced to no avail. Sometimes the engine light will come on as well and the engine speed will not climb above 2k making it impossible to upshift.
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