Having throttle hesitation problems. This is the 3rd time I have had it in for this problem and they can't figure out what is wrong. The vehicle moves slightly forward from a stop and then goes dead for a few seconds then seems to recover and go.
View 11 RepliesSo among the other annoyances my 92 Ranger 4.0 auto has it has a hesitation before it starts spinning the tires under full throttle from a dead stop. It's the 4.0 automatic. I thought it would have more power than it actually does being use to a 2.5 auto. But this 92 4.0 runs and drives good. I've gotten it tuned up with new motorcraft wires, plugs, new coil, fuel filter, fuel pump assembly, fuel pressure regulator, air filter, idle air valve, new O2 sensor, new Dynomax muffler. I can't find any vacuum leaks. The engine idles slightly rough after you start it up from it sitting for a few hours, but quickly smooths out as soon as you start driving it.
This one here has no EGR. Transmission feels good, may have even been replaced by previous owner before we got it. It shifts good and the fluid is clean and the transmission is the cleanest part under the whole truck. No way of knowing for sure. The truck currently has 111,000 miles and I did all that stuff when we got it at 101,000 miles. So what could it be? I'm thinking a lazy injector or could it be the catalytic converter? Or could it be the throttle body? I know I once had a BBK throttle body on it and it made the world of difference in off the line power but it kept throwing too rich/lean condition and a TPS code so I had to return it. It sucks because it did wake up the motor. I returned it and since then the Check Engine Light hasn't come back on.
I rebuilt the engine on my toyota celica. After putting everything back together there are a few bizarre symptoms I am hoping to get sorted out.
1) It only starts with starting fluid, but once it starts it will run continuously without dying.
2) The temperature gauge goes up relatively quickly, and also moves with the throttle. For example if it is as the 1/3 level and I apply throttle it will bump up. It continues to jump along with throttle play.
3) When I remove the coolant sender and/or sensor plugs, the gauge still reads the same (is this normal).
4) The fans don't turn on unless I remove the sender cable (the one with one wire and not two)
If I understand correctly the sensor with one wire is the sender and the sensor with two wires is the temp sensor. I am having a hell of a time determining the difference. The one with a single wire contact is plugged into the thermostate cover/pipe. The one with two wires is in the thermostat housing.
Did I fry the ECU somehow? What is going on?
I have a 93 Camry V6 every time the car moves from a dead stop it feels like it starts from 2nd gear...
View 15 RepliesNeed to solve the problem of my Toyota Prius car in 2008. The car is cold while working well for a maximum time of 1 hour, the first symptom is to stop the air conditioner to cool, then turn on the light triangle warning, after driving a little longer for the vehicle and no more moves. If you wait until the vehicle returns to work for a few minutes to cool, then everything fails again with the same symptoms. And you change the battery 12 Volt, and you change the water pump hybrid system and I can not solve!
View 3 RepliesAfter almost a year of fruitless trips to my local service center of a national used car dealer, I am still having a problem with an in-cabin whistle. This is the problem: There is a whistle inside the cabin of the car when:
1) The AC compressor is on,
2) The car is under slight acceleration, and
3) The engine is running at one of the following RPM ranges: 1500-1800 RPM, 2500 RPM, 3000 RPM.
It will happen at any speed: pulling out of a parking space, or running down the interstate. On a long trip, the whistle will occur every 45-60 seconds while on cruise control, as the car slightly accelerates to recover speed.
I have read that it is likely the AC Expansion Valve (two other posts on CarTalk), but my question is Why the dependence on the engine RPMs? I can make the car whistle continuously if I run the car at 2,500 RPM in 5th gear on the interstate. At 2,400 RPM or 2,600 RPM, however, the whistle disappears.The used car dealer can reproduce the problem on the road but not in the shop.
Golf VI 2.5 automatic... I seemed to notice a dead spot in the throttle when taking off from a light. You press the gas, nothing seems to happen. To start from a stop sign, you have to really give the car some juice to get going, which ends up being too much throttle and sucks gas. In other words, very difficult to take off at a moderate pace from a stop. Seems like all or nothing.
View 13 RepliesOK, this is the second time I noticed this. I'm at a stop light, looking around, suddenly, I notice I am slightly moving forward. Is my foot (on the brake) just too relaxed, or what? I have never experienced this before in any vehicle.
View 14 RepliesOur 2015 es350 with 2,500 miles hesitates when accelerating from a dead stop, such as from a stop light. We are told this is to be expected with this vehicle. The dealership test-drove the car and say there's no problem. But this hesitation is unlike any other car we've experienced.
View 8 RepliesI need to better qualify when it happens (it may be always, not certain) but when I first drive off in my car in the morning I find the initial 10s or so there is a delay before my power comes on stream.
So I am moving, but very slowly and the V8 doesn't seem to be pulling. There is a stop sign at the end of my street that is maybe 5 houses away, so there isn't a lot of time for acceleration, but its mostly momentum before I hit the stop sign, even if I had depressed the accelerator.
It doesn't jerk or anything when the power comes online but it is very strange to me that there is a delay. Is this normal or an indication of a problem or wear item somewhere?
Took my 04 V8 in Monday AM for airbag fault, throttle hesitation, and remote key fob/keyless entry range (lack thereof). Called the dealer yesterday and service rep says airbag and remote range fixed OK, but after TSB for throttle hesitation was downloaded, the car would no longer start. Service rep explained that the shop foreman had worked on car personally for most of day and still was not able to start car.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2003 Toyota Tundra V6. The problem I have with it is it hesitates. It does not happen ALL the time but it is very frequent. Sometimes it happens when I try to accelerate from a dead stop and other times while I am driving along (does not matter what speed). It will usually hesitate for a few seconds then everything is normal. The check engine light thus not come on.
I took it into Toyota. They duplicated the problem on the first test drive but did not have their equipment hooked up at the time. They kept the truck for over a week and finally got it to happen again. I guess they must have only been going on short test drives because it happens to me multiple times a day. They told me it was the throttle body and it needed to be replaced. My jaw hit the floor when they told me how much they charge to replace it. I ran this by a couple of friends who work on cars on the side and they said it sounded like the mass air flow sensor needed to be replaced. Since this was much cheaper than a throttle body, I replaced that. However, it did not solve the problem.
I have a '99 passat 1.8t Tiptronic. 106,000 miles. Recently I've been getting a bad hesitation when accelerating from a stop. At half throttle the car kinda bogs down and hesitates then as the rpms get higher it seems to clear out and accelerate smoother. At the same time the car doesn't have the same sack it used to. I checked he plugs, found them very fouled. Replaced them and the problem got a little better, but definitely still there. There has to be a reason the plugs fouled. There is no CEL so I don't really know what to check first.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1987 ford f150 with a EFI throttle bodied 5.0L (302), and I have taken it to a mechanic multiple times because for one it has a dead spot in the throttle and it dies when you let off the gas at a stop light or sign. But the mechanic said he checked everything he knew to check and found nothing wrong with it. I also had my cousin read the computer previous to this and we couldn't pull the codes from it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 F150 4x4, XLT crew 6.5' bed, 5.4 engine. The truck has a very strange erratic throttle behavior from a dead stop through low speeds, shifting seems very strange at low speeds too.
Dealer tried re-flashing the computer, but that didn't fix it. They talk about some valve that sounds to me like it's similar to an EGR function, but I cant remember what he called this valve. He explained the issue as exhaust gasses that are to be recirculated and burned, but the valve is opening at the wrong time, or stuck open or something so it feeds the fire so to speak.
Does any of this sound typical or common? Is this something that's hopefully easier to do than a spark plug change on a 5.4?
So of course the dealership isn't going to diagnose this since "the car's not supposed to be driven that way" - but I get a nasty rumbling noise when I accelerate from a dead stop with wide open throttle. It only lasts for the first few thousand RPMs in first gear, and after that it is gone.
I was guessing that it might be the transfer case or something like that, but it's really hard to tell. I do have AWD. I did not have any such problem in my previous GS, which was a 2007 (current is a 2010). It's worse when I accelerate around a corner, and it also makes a small noise when I'm going above 80ish mph, which of course the dealership isn't going to diagnose either.
When coming to a complete stop, the engine feels a little hesitation and RPM go down then up as shown on video. RPM go down then up twice sometimes at full stop. [URL] .....
History : December, car engine died. Replaced coils and spark plugs. Issues with RPM at stop started.
Two weeks ago, engine light stay on and warning light with triangle on, Diagnose a misfire. They replace Mass Air Assembly.
Today, they replaced the crank case valve Assembly to fix the issue but continues to be the same. The same valve was replace four months ago.
Is this normal and according to the dealer it is working fine. Bad coils?
So, after the dealer found an open circuit and "fixed" the running gear workshop fault, as you know, it was right back again. Today, it happened as usual. At a light, I turned off the ignition and restarted, as this always resets it and it usually doesn't come back for a day or more.
However, something different happened. After restarting, I got a fault I've never seen. By now, I was on the highway. "Brake Fault, in RED. Stop Vehicle" is what it said. Transmission would not shift out of third, and I'm on the highway with the RPMs up to almost 5 grand just to keep at around 50.
I get off the next exit, which seemed an interminably long way, shut her down, started it back up, proceeded where I had to go, parked, and came home over 30 miles with no further faults.
It's bound to happen again. I'm ready for a trade-in, for sure. 42,500 miles and it's definitely going to get worse.
Have a 2006 V6 with 800 miles. Recently shen I am starting from a stop the engine bangs and kind of makes a knock. I am currently using 93 for gas...
View 1 RepliesI recall some folks (with certain VIN#s) getting a TSP for correcting the lag when accelerating from a dead stop. I asked my dealer about it during routine service several months ago, but no fix at that time.
View 1 Repliesbrakes are functioning fine, fluid is OK.
View 7 Replies