Touareg :: Rapid Clicking Noise When Accelerated Quickly
Nov 13, 2004
I have a 05 V8 with just over 1000 miles on it. The other day while driving with the driver window down, I had the trans in sport mode. As I accelerated quickly and got the rpm's pretty high, I noticed a rapid clicking noise coming from the underside of the car. It sounded like it was below the driver seat area. The clicking I heard sounded electronic, and can be best described as similar to the noise a playing card makes when kids put them in the spokes of their bicycles. The noise became apparent as the car reached the next shift point, and stopped after the shift. As the rpm's rose and it reached the next shift point, I heard it again. I have been able to duplicate the sound in tip mode as well, but I mostly hear it when it's in sport mode as it's easier to get the rpm's up before the shift.
I took the car in and took the service manager for a ride. He claimed he couldn't hear it. So I got my salesman to let me drive another 05 V8 and I heard it on that car too, but not as severe as on mine.
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2002 Ford Focus SE Mileage: 140000
Symptoms: When turning right, especially at low speed while braking, it makes this rapid clicking noise, disappears once you let go of the brake.
In the past when it made this kind of noise, usually goes away after I made sure the brake pads clips are securely clipped around the caliper, but it's not working this time. No noise while braking going forward or turning left. Seems to be worse at lower speed and any right turn can bring on the noise, does not have to be a full-lock turn.
So far what I've done: Made sure the brake pads clips are secured (horribly designed), lug nuts are torqued at correct spec, no obvious broken linkage, bar, arm, coil, or CV boots under quick inspection.
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Went to go turn on my car today and it made a rapid clicking noise. When I turned it off and locked it, the lights keep flashing on and off...
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I recently replaced my starter pin my Hyundai Sonata 06 v6 3.3 gls. Installing it was no real issue, but one (there is only one a single wire not the one that you fix on with a bolt and nut) of the electrical connectors from the car to the starter solenoid. The plastic around the conductor pretty much crumbled around my finger, what this connector is called specifically. Now the contacts will not contact properly so i suspect this the source of the rapid clicking issue, since my battery was fully charged. I plan to go to the junkyard too if i can find a replacement. Looking for specifics on the electrical connector?
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The sound emanates approximately from the area of the coolant storage tank (driver's side, behind the front bumper), though I doubt the tank or its pump is the problem. It sounds only when the car is in 'ready' status. I also think it is not one of the relays in the nearby fusebox. There water-pump drive belt is not on that side, so I don't think it's the water pump or its idler pulley. I have posted a ten-second sound recording on YouTube, greatly amplified. (Ignore the video portion.)
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So this is a two-part question because that's the type of day that I'm having. 1st, I went out to start my car to find that it won't. The radio and lights come on, but it won't actually start, and makes a rapid, loud, clicking noise. I have a video of this however...
My boyfriend thought perhaps I need a jump start, so we were going to try that first but when we went to pull the latch inside the car to open the hood, we found that it doesn't work. So now we can't get the hood open.
So, I'd like to first know how I can get my hood open easily, and what may be going on with it not starting.
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I have a 2002 impala that has occasionally not started. The problem started a couple months ago, once it started getting cold here in the midwest. Every few weeks when I turned the key, nothing would happen. It only happened occasionally, and after waiting a bit it would start normally. I did some reading and suspected it was the anti theft locking the car down. Today I tried jumping the car just to be sure it wasn't the battery, and all of the electronics were very dim. I heard a rapid clicking noise from the dash that continued even after I removed the key. The headlights were rapidly flashing, although also very dim. This continued for about a minute before stopping. I tried letting the battery charge from the jump for about 10 minutes, no change.
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I own a 2006 GS300 for 4 years and I have about 90k miles on it. Just suddenly today when I went to go turn the car on, I hear a rapid loud clicking noise and the engine will not start. I've done some googling and one possible solution is to disconnect the battery to let the car reset and then connect it back. What the cause is? I've replaced the spark plugs a few months ago, but I didn't replace the battery.
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So I was trying to put led turn signals in my truck then I decided not to because it was getting too dark. Earlier today started without complaints. Then after I was done with the headlights I tried to start my truck, nothing besides rapid clicking. First thought was battery was dead from me leaving the dome light on the entire time while working on it and also having the headlights on a good portion, so I decide I'll jump it. Get it all hooked up and and start the donor truck then wait 2 mins and try to start my truck still nothing but rapid clicks. I got the voltage meter out to check the battery and had 11.97 volts (that's not great but either way it wouldn't start when I tried to jump it). Put it on a charger? Bad starter? Solenoid?
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So my truck is making a rapid clicking type of noise out of the vents when the ac is turned on.
The noise sounds like a thin piece of paper getting hit by a fan (that's what I hear) It started during this past winter when I would cold start the truck. but as the heater warmed up it went away completely. well now since its warm out I am running the ac now, and it blows cold but doesn't have a lot of volume to it it seems. but being the problem was when the truck was cold running the cold ac makes the noise permanent.
The blend door acutator is working as should (i can only assume the blend door is ok) the vacuum lines are good and vacuum signal is good.
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Just yesterday, my 2001.5 Passat GLX had trouble starting. I got a lot of rapid clicking and after a few tries, it finally turned over. Then I drove it around a bit and it started fine after a quick lunch. A few hours later, it hesitated again, so i thought maybe I didn't charge it up enough, so I took a trip down to my local Kragen and thought I'd get the battery tested just in case.
They did a test of the battery with some handheld device and said it came back fine. The guy did say that if I could take the battery out and bring it back, they could test it in a different machine, though, but otherwise the battery was charging fine and was holding the charge fine.
This morning I started up the car to see if it would start. Started fine. Then I did it again and it started fine again. OK, must have just drained somehow and now it's got some juice again. Fast forward to this afternoon and my wife was going to the grocery store and she says "The car is dead!". Yup, dead. Just rapid clicking again, but not turning over.
After checking out some threads in here it looks like it could be the battery. And it is about 5 years old according to the date sticker on it (Duralast, btw). So to test it as best I could, I charged it up with a battery charger, then took a reading with my multimeter. With the car off, I could literally see the voltage dropping in the readings. It started around 13v, but got progressively lower and lower as if it was a timer counting down seconds. I then disconnected the Terminals and took more readings. This time the voltage maintained it's reading and was static.
ok, so now maybe something is draining the battery (and fast!). One thing I noticed when I re-connected the Terminals is a sort of whining sound coming from the area of the coolant reservoir. When I put my ear closer, I could hear liquid moving around there. Is that normal that it would be on when the car if off? Could that be my culprit?
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We bought a 2006 GX back in the fall. For several months now, when first starting the car, it makes a loud, rapid clicking noise for 10-25 seconds. It seems to originate from the front left side of the car. I don't believe it's the uphill or downhill assist control, as the clicking occurs whether the car is in park, reverse, or drive. It only seems to happen when the car hasn't been driven for several hours. Is this normal?
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My otherwise fine-driving 2003 Subaru Outback with 155,000 miles offers an odd, rapid, click, click, click, click directly from the engine while idling. It goes away once you drive off and then returns when you go back to idle. Not loud, not knocking, just click, click, click, click...My mechanic had no idea...and while it hasn't overheated yet (knock wood!) the engine always smells like its threatening to whenever I idle for more than few minutes, even on a cold day.
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Its a 2008 Volkwagen jetta with about 60000 miles on it. My car makes a rapid fire clicking sound. I've checked the battery connections and they seem fine. When I tried to jump start, the electronics inside start flashing to the same clicking sound. The check engine light is on.
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Two weeks ago my car would not start, so I had a friend try and jump the battery. This battery wouldn't hold a charge, I took it into O'Reilly Auto Parts and they said the battery was shot. I put the new battery they recommended, the car ran fine for about 5 days. I took the battery back to O'Reilly and had them test the battery, it was too low to start the car, so they charged it and sent me on my way. The car ran fine for the rest of the day. The next morning the car would not start again, so I called the auto parts store and they recommended switching out my alternator. We switched out the alternator and the car fired right up, it ran perfectly (lights, heater, radio, etc) until yesterday.
While driving down the street, I noticed the radio head unit flicker, then it shut off. The car kept driving for about 2-3 city blocks, then all the lights shut off (dash lights, headlights, tail lights, brake lights). I turned onto a side street and the car couldn't go above 10-15 mph, it seemed. The speedometer and other gauges started going berserk, followed by a ton of dash lights coming on. The car basically rolled to a stop. I put it in park, turned the key to off and had it towed to my house. When I turn the key to accessory, all the lights work, as well as the heater and radio. But when I turn the key to start the car, a rapid-clicking sound comes from under the hood.
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2008 R32 with 17k ... What might be causing this sound which is just a faint clicking clicking sound that happens intermittently when driving.
I have an appointment at VW dealer tomorrow but they do not want to take ownership as I have replaced the head unit and have steering wheel controls for my Alpine IVA 505.
It is not electronic as the controls are solid state and the can bus adapter is behind the head unit. It seems mechanical but what could it be? I definitely notice that at a stop when rocking the brake that create the start of the clicking sound .
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I have a '92 Honda Accord LX and has 200,000 mi. When I tried to start the car it will not start. The engine will not turn over and a rapid clicking will follow a few seconds later. I do not think its the battery b/c the radio still works as well as the lights. I'm suspecting it might be the starter motor or the solenoid?
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When starting, rapid clicking like failing batteries. Had dealer install new Motorcraft batteries, and it's still happening. Clicks when i turn the key and then labors while turning over for 20 seconds. Sometimes it takes 2 or three times before it starts. I put in a rebuilt alternater 5 years ago. It seems like a fuel problem, but I'm guessing.
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I just recently purchased an 02 golf 2.0 , it has 111k on it and seemed like a great deal at the point of purchase but I am finding more problems everyday... The battery dies overnight. but when i go to get in the car i can hear a rapid clicking coming from under the dash while the drivers door is open. it stops when I close the door. then after sitting in the car with the door closed for about a minute i see the gauges start ticking and winding up. I assume this is causing the drain? but what would cause the gauges to act this way??
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While driving, a rapid clicking sound randomly comes from under and to the left of the steering wheel and the van concurrently has stuttered power. It still drives but is rapidly getting worse with frequency and we are on a road trip on the Oregon Coast with young kids and limited local mechanics. It seems like something as simple as a loose connection but before digging in to check electrical connections .....
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1999 ford F250 SD V10 ... When this goes on the truck misfires and tries to die. Usually I can key the ignition in nuetral and the clicking stops and the truck starts and runs better....
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