Toyota :: 1988 - Intermittent Scraping In Rear Driver Side Wheel
Jun 27, 2014
My 1988 Standard 2WD Toyota pickup truck has intermittent scraping in rear driver side wheel. It only occurs after slowing down from higher speeds and making a turn. It seems to happen IN the turn. The scraping pulses and is in time with the speed of the truck. Once it starts scraping, I stop for a minute, then it goes away.
This makes me think it is my rear brake drum, overheating and locking up. I've jacked up, in neutral, with handbrake OFF and both rear wheels have extreme resistance when I turn them by hand. I also jacked the front to compare the resistance of the front wheels, and there is nearly none. Not sure if this is normal since it is RWD.
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Replaced my rotors today. When I was done, I spun each wheel to see if there was interference. Passenger wheel spins freely. Driver's wheel makes a scraping sound (brake pads?) and stops pretty quickly.Which one is wrong or bad?
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I noticed that the driver side front wheel makes a metallic scraping noise while the car is turning right. It sounds like something scraping the rotor or shield behind the rotor ( a rotational/moving kind of scraping noise)
This only happens on a relatively sharp turn (wheel is turned 70~80% to the right). I don't suspect the power steering as there is no noise if the car is not moving even when wheel is turned to extremes. The scraping noise happens at any speed, as long as the car is moving. does not happen when car is turning left.
Note that I am 90% certain it is from the front... my ears may be playing a trick on me (kind of hard to listen precisely while driving). Where to start looking?
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2006 Prius has a strange intermittent tweeting sound that appears to come from the front drivers side, maybe in the console. Mechanic says it is in the tires. But I just can't go with that. The sound almost is like a cricket...
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I get this intermittent whistling noise coming from the rear drivers side. Sounds like a coffee pot whistling on a stove. After I drive about ten or twelve miles it goes away and diminishes into a hissing noise. Is it possible the fuel pump is failing? I have a 2005 trailblazer with 105000 miles.
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Had the death wobble a couple of months ago. Changed all shocks, steering stabilizer to bilsteins; new tires (stock), ready lift stabilizer(stock, no lift) had it digitally aligned. All was perfect. Until my new intermittent steering issues. It appears to happen when making a 90 degree turn, say a right or left onto a perpendicular roadway. As truck straightens out, you'd think the front drivers side wheel is going to fall off(you'd think the lugs are missing).
Pull int a parking lot, drive in a few circles, and all back to normal. Can't replicate every time, force for s few days with no issues, then it might happen again. Other intermittent issue is sometimes, again out of no where, truck will pull and track to the right or left. Pull the steering wheel the opposite direction, it'll track the other way. Again, pull int parking lot, do a few figure eight circles and back to normal. Alignment shop and regular mechanic say everything is tight, ball joint look fine.
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I hit a curb in my 97 corolla now it's making a noise in the front driver side wheel well driving down the road, what it is?
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I am in the process of tracking down a very intermittent "tick" sound coming from the rear driver side door area. How to remove the door panel.
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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My car is a 2000 Corolla CE I bought 2 months ago with 45k miles. It does not have ABS system.
Before I took the mechanic:When I brake, there would be a "clamping" noise from the drivers front wheel sometimes. It sounds like the caliper "clamping" noise. The brake cylinder would also click the first time (and maybe second) the pedal is pressed.
The mechanic replaced the both front calipers, put new brake pads, installed rear drums and shoes, and changed brake fluid.
The brake pedal is now high and when I brake....it does brake but it's not like "instant stopping power" like new brake pads. Is this normal? (maybe I have to break them in). Also, the master cylinder is still clicking (I pump the brakes since my car has no ABS)....it clicks the first 2 times I pump. Is that normal?
Edit:Since the repair, I drove it for the second time. This time the brakes brake more "instantly". The clicking of the master cylinder is still there however, could this be due to air in the hoses?
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I've recently noticed that on my 2005 Gen 2, after starting the car, the first few miles I drive produce a gentle metallic rhythmic scraping sound coming from the right rear wheel.
It's only audible when driving at low speeds (<30 mph), and seems to disappear after the car has been driven for a few miles. But when I start the car fresh the next day, it has reappeared.
The rate of the scraping noise varies directly with the speed I'm driving. I think it only happens when I'm coasting (in Drive), and possibly also when I'm braking.
My guess is something is slightly misaligned or rusty - a disc brake? And the noise "disappears" when the metal gets warmed up?
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The other day I replace the front brake pads and rotors on my daughter's '03 Accent. On the test drive I noticed a scraping noise coming from the driver's side. Got it home and didn't see anything obvious, but for fun I removed the pads and swapped the shims around. It was better, and afterwards I put the new brakes through a few heat cycles. The scraping noise became less noticeable so I figured she should just drive it for a few days. Well today I'm informed that the noise is "really bad".
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I just started hearing a ticking sound in my drivers side rear wheel. It sounds like a pebble in the tire at low speeds and as you get faster it makes loud road noise in the car, almost like a whoosh whoosh sound. Took it to a local auto shop and they said it was a stuck brake caliper and possible wheel bearing. After driving I felt each rotor and that one was considerable hotter then the others. Everything else about the car is fine, drives well with no vibrations and brakes well. Jacked the wheel up to see if the wheel was loose from a bad bearing, but it was not loose. The shop, however, can not locate a caliper saying it was on national backorder. Does this sound like a bad caliper and is it normally hard to find parts? I'm trying to avoid going to a dealer because of price, but that maybe may only option. The car has 90,000 miles.
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Just took my r on its first road trip. About 1k miles straight. Reached the destination and I noticed smoke coming from the drivers side wheel well. Popped the hood and seems to have com from the rear of the engine. It dissipated fast. 15k on the odometer.
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My car (2003 Honda CR-V, 54000 mile) started to make "sssss" sound from the rear-driver side wheel while driving, but not so severe at the moment. I checked the wheel and found that the pad was worn out: metal to disk. The other three pads are a little bit (2-3mm) left over. I visited some franchise mechanic shop and was told that the pads, rotors, and calipers need to be replaced.
But I'm wondering about the caliper replacement. Do you think that my car makes "ssss" sound when brakes not being applied, which possibly means a stuck piston, so the calipers also need to be replaced? I got brake fluid flushed every 3 years, for your information. I think that some air in the side caused by poor recent bleeding might cause the symptom or it might be a normal situation, which means the caliper itself is fine.
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Have a 2000 Forester with 114K. Had to replace driver's rear wheel bearing at 100k & again at 110k; when replacement bearing started to fail, ABS light came on because wheel was not spinning true! Replaced passenger's rear wheel bearing at 105k (this one is getting noisy now).
Hard to believe I got 2 "bum' bearings! Not a difficult repair, but this will be 4 bearings in less than 2 years. The car's driven on paved roads & with little load, so it's not from harsh road conditions or heavy loads.
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After smelling burning for a few days randomly, I've narrowed it down to the rear driver side wheel. After about on the highway, I stopped, and it is HOT! I pulled the wheel but the hub spins easily 1/16th of a turn or so, as it's in park, so the brakes are not dragging. What else this could be? Or are they dragging at random? The rotor is perfect, no rust and no groves, so hte pads are doing their job. 1/16th of a turn is way exaderation, but it can move. Also there's no sounds at all.
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For several days I could hear a scraping sound from the right front side. I thought it was snow packed in the wheel well at first, until there wasn't any snow there. Today I was driving on the Xway and the scraping became a buzz like a Cessna airplane. On the way back home I turned the steering wheel back and forth and sure enough the buzz came and went. That made it sure to me the wheel bearing was bad.
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Recently my 2001 Solara started emitting a scraping noise from one of the rear wheels. Mechanic says its a frozen caliper, and suggested a complete brake job (rotar, pads, etc). My question is, I've got reasonable skills, by buddy has major skills when it comes to working on cars, is that something that a shade-tree mechanic can safely do ? Also, as its a frozen caliper, does that imply I need to replace the caliper, or could it have frozen due to the pads ?
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I just bought a 2007 LS460 with 90K miles on the clock. It replaces my 2006 LS430, which I loved, but it was getting long in the tooth.
So far, I have fixed the wind noise issue on the pass. side and the only remaining issue is this clicking in the driver rear wheel when the forward or reverse load is first applied.
So, to explain, every time I come to a stop or go from forward to reverse, I hear one or two clicks once I apply the gas. It sounds like some metal part is settling in place. The sound is not there once under way and there is no other noise at all.
The shop I went to spent couple of hours looking for the cause, listening with mechanics stethoscopes, feeling by hand, while the car was in the air with the wheel off and came up with either a rear hub or rear axle on its way out. It is hard to pinpoint the exact source because the click or metal ping is transferred to all the metal components of the assembly and there are plenty of them there.
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Background: 2003 jetta; just changed rotors and pads on rear wheels a month ago, they are disc brakes
So the other day I was driving in a school zone at about 20 mph when I heard a VERY loud sound, like I'm dragging metal. i might also describe it as two rusty metal plates being rubbed against each other, but really really loud.
The noise is related to speed, it sounds cyclical and speeds up as the wheel turns faster. It occurs when I am NOT braking.
I parked the car and came back to it a few days later move it and the sound disappeared for the first 100 feet and then came back.
We did 2 things - we changed the caliper, and we also noticed that a caliper bolt was missing. I am pretty sure the noise was coming from that missing bolt - i think the caliper became dislodged and was making contact with the rotor. The caliper also seemed to be dragging a little bit so we went ahead and changed it too.
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