Toyota - Corolla :: 2000 - Jerks And Stutters While Driving / Clicking Sounds While Accelerating
Oct 5, 2015
My Corolla seems to be dying on me. What could be wrong with it.
It burns oil (a lot: 1.5 liters on 380 km). Black/ blue? smoke from the exhaust.
Idles very low at times (800rpm) and a little high at other times (1300rpm?).
Jerks / stutters while driving (since valve cover gasket (I think that was the one) was changed, due to burning of oil)
Clicking sounds while accelerating.
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Two cars, a Toyota Camry and a Corolla, are shaking when driving them, esp. around 35-45 mph when accelerating. This started right after a historic snow storm in Virginia that brought 24" of snow and temperatures in the teens and a bit lower. Nothing appears to be wrong with any of the tires. The shaking feels like the car as a whole; it does not really come through the steering wheel. We`ve only driven each car once since the storm.
I`m thinking this may be from all the moisture and cold. Does this sound reasonable? Do you think it might work its way out, or do we have serious problems with two different cars on our hands?
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I drove my car to the store today without any problems. When I started it back up again, I noticed a clicking sound. At first I thought that maybe I had turned on the turn signal or the emergency blinkers, but neither was on. I turned off the car and restarted it. The clicking restarted when I turned the car back on. I tried turning off my headlights, and the clicking got louder. I turned them back on and it got quieter.
At that point I decided to just drive home. The clicking stopped and restarted several times during my trip. I checked the oil, and it's fine. What could be making the noise?
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE I bought recently that had 45K miles on it (it has a 4spd auto with O/D).
When accelerating from a stop, I usually take it very slow and I notice that there is a slight jerk most of the time.....it's sort of like I can feel the gears engage. This doesn't happen all the time and it doesn't seem to happen if I accelerate fast.
I did a transmission drain & fill with Royal Purple MaxATF (the drain & fill was only once).
1) Is this normal for this transmission? Also, is there a "pan drop" for this transmission? The mechanic only removed the drain bolt...he did not do the pan drop.
2) During my work commute, I'm in a lot of rush hour traffic where it moves for short distances at 5-10mph. It will shift from 1st to 2nd a lot of times...is better to just put the car in 1st (L) gear? My mechanic said no because it will heat up the transmission faster.
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I have a 2000 corolla ce with 51k miles I bought recently.
While going to work this morning, I had to hard brake from 50mph. The car slid several feet but came to a safe stop.
Now when I'm driving, my right wheel is clicking....like a light clicking noise. Could hard braking have damaged the wheel bearing or cv joint?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 130000+ mi on it. The current engine has 96000+ mi; the original was replaced because the previous owner allowed it to overheat, blew a gasket, and apparently warped the engine itself.
I have owned this car for about 6 weeks now. The car was driven roughly 160 mi from where it was purchased to my residence; no trouble on that trip. However, within the first few weeks of owning it, the car started making a squealing noise when I turned the steering wheel. I took the car to a mechanic and had the belts adjusted. This eliminated the squealing, but I was also told that the CV boot needed to be replaced (they asked if I had been hearing a clicking noise when turning, which I had but had thought nothing of), so I also had that repair done. Problem solved. Car seemed to be running fine.
Okay, on to the current problem. Something else I had started to notice, before I had the belts adjusted, was that it seemed to hesitate a little when going up hills, and sometimes when accelerating. It was a small thing, and I attributed it to my driving style (which probably isn't the best) and the fact that my area is very hilly and the car might be having a harder time with that. Well, this problem has gotten worse; I can definitely feel the car jerking, especially when accelerating (very noticeable when going uphill). The problem also seems to be worse at lower speeds, but I'm not entirely sure that I've nailed that down.
One thing I noticed is that it seemed to become much more noticeable after the last time I gassed up the car. It seems like it's getting worse as the fuel is used up, but that's probably just a consequence of using up fuel as I drive and I'm just looking for connections where there aren't any.
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I have a 93 tercel that has developed a weird engine problem. It starts fine and will drive fine for about half hour. If u stop after half hour and shut engine off and 5 minutes later try to restart and it will crank over for at least 10 seconds before it restarts. After it is running again it seems to have a serious stutter and doesnt want to idle. When u shift into drive it stalls and you have to crank engine for another 10 or more seconds before it will start again, and when it does start it still stuttering and wanting to stall. If you keep foot on brake and other foot on gas it can be driven and once the car is moving over 10 mph it runs fine. The wires have been changed and the rotor and the cap and also timing belt replaced. Plugs also were pulled and inspected. Showed sighns of wear but all were nice tan color and looked good.
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I drive 07'es350 and I have felt jerks while driving usually when accelerating or slowing down from speed. Did check with dealer before for transmission after analysis by technician he said it is perfect, recently read on internet and saw fuel filter can be an issue but when called the dealer he said filter is in gas tank and it is lifelong. Not sure what kind of diagnosis I should do to find the issue.
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I just bought a new corolla a few weeks ago, (Build Date April 2012), so far the car is great except for one issue.
I've noticed when pulling out parking spaces the steering column makes a clicking noise. It sounds more like a plastic noise. My last car had to have intermediate steering shaft lubed every 40k (Pontiac) but it was more of a "clunk" sound. This is more plastic on plastic noise however this appears to be only when the wheel is about 1/2 turn from the "end" or all the way left, or all the way right.
I am trying to figure out if this is a "normal" sound or if something was not put together right. Here is a video .....
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I have a 1996 Toyota corolla. it has been working fine until recently. I had problem starting the car intermittently. When I turned the key, it sounds like it cranks but the car would not start. If I tried it again after a minute or two, it would start again. It happens twice to me already so far. It has been around 4000 miles since my last oil change. And my engine oil has been leaking slowly for years (probably due to bad gasket) and I checked regularly and made sure the Engine oil is filled up to Full level. I haven't brought it to a mechanics yet but I would like to know what could be the issue.
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My Corolla recently started making a sporadic knocking sound when braking. It only seems to happen infrequently, but a couple of times I have noticed it happening when I go over a bump or crack in the road. Any clues as to what the issue might be?
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1990 Corolla 4AFE - 4cyl , auto, running well...without prior symptoms, now starts (4-5 times) and idles roughly (no moisture in the air) ....seems to me to be fuel..... I know it could be many things - but i have to travel to the car ( not much time last night) .....It doesn't rev clean, sounds choking and very slow especially in drive/rev....not as sharp misses. Start with the fuel filter ? Can the fuel pump go quickly ?or does it go slowly. injectors? I'll check for coil arcing tonight, and the strength of the exhaust (Cat is 23 yrs old.....Vinny?) IAC? ..... Dist cap, wires and plugs are good...
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2002 accent gl. 96000 miles...strange clicking or ratcheting sounds that I thought were drivers side 1/2 shafts going bad...replaced it, still has the sound...replaced left shock-strut was bad as well. sounds like differential noise, almost like a baseball card hitting bicycle spokes! previous owner told me this sound has been there for over 1 year and he put both 1/2 shafts in as well, sound is still there. Trans was a little low on fluid(automatic/overdrive). tried driving car with o/d off, manually shifting and driving through all the gears, sound is still there.
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My 2005 Accent began making an odd clicking sound about two years ago when I would decrease my speed, not using the brakes. It wasn't loud, just annoying. It went on for some time until my car went into the shop to have the alternator replaced. I explained the noise to the mechanic and they checked it out. They explained they added some type of cleaning fluid somewhere under the hood, and the sound was gone. I was thrilled.
Last year, the sound returned again. Annoyed, I began saving to bring it in to the shop again. In Feb 2013, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced because my mileage of course called for it. The mechanic said he could not hear the clicking sound I was reporting (I really didn't see how.)
Two months later in April, my car decided to die on me and after 5 months I just recently got it up and running again. My differential and transmission were both completely rebuilt. Also, my CV axles have both been replaced. Now that I have my car back, the clicking sound is louder than before and also now happens when I accelerate as well. The faster I go, the faster the clicking gets until it eventually stops. When I slow down, the clicking starts again until I hit my brakes.
I want to take my car and get this noise silenced once and for all since they didn't hear it when my transmission was done last month. What fluid may have been added to what part 2 years ago when this was handled initially?
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I have a 2003 Passat Wagon, V6, with a little over 80,000 miles that has developed a problem that I have not been able to get fixed: after the engine has warmed up, when driving at under 2000 rpm, the car jerks when light throttle is applied. I could also describe it as a thump or shudder. There is a small blip in the tachometer when it jerks. If I give it enough gas to cause the transmission to shift up, it does not jerk, nor does it do it over 2000 rpm. It recently had it's 80,000 mile service and runs very strong and smoothly when given enough gas.
My dealer couldn't figure what was wrong, and after they consulted with VW decided that I must have put in some bad gas. The problem was to have gone away after 5 or 6 tanks of good gas. After that didn't solve the problem, I went to an independent repair shop. They told me that it couldn't be misfire because there were no codes registered. Their theory is that it is problem with the transmission, whereby with light throttle the transmission is told to shift but then slips right back down, thus the jerkiness. They couldn't offer a solution, however. What to do about it?
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My Corolla started making a new noise recently. It only makes this noise when I'm moving/giving the car gas. The noise sounds like the noise from those safety strips on the side of the interstate but not quite as loud coming definitely from the front end, possibly isolated to the driver side. The faster I go the more apparent the noise is. It's not really a click noise it's more of a dull sound. It occurs at low speeds and high speeds, but not when idling. It's almost as though the engine is running hard but I'm not convinced it's originating from the engine.
The engine idles normally and I don't think there is anything wrong with the bearings or CV joints as I have replaced the left CV joint/axle and the right front bearing recently.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla XRS with a manual transmission which has developed a shudder. When this shudder started, it only occurred when accelerating at highway speeds, or maintaining highway speeds. Now it happens at lower speeds if I give it gas without downshifting, but at reasonable RPM, 3000-5000. I cannot feel the shudder in the steering wheel, but the whole car shakes, and it definitely feels like it is coming from the front end. I have had the tires balanced and rotated. I also have replaced the IACV and MAF due to a CEL. These were replaced after the shudder started. For a few days after the replacement, the CEL returned, but now I am no longer getting it.
There are no visibly obvious issues with the suspension or the drive shafts or CV joints, and the motor mounts likewise look okay. I am not getting a CEL of any kind, and I replaced my plugs 6 months ago, but I pulled them anyway, and they are not fouled. I don’t think the issue is in my suspension, steering, or wheels because I cannot feel it in the steering wheel. I don’t think my half shafts are warped because the shudder happens at varying speeds, and the instant I let off of the gas, it stops. Though this doesn’t rule them out completely, there is no clicking from the CV joints. When I brake, the car slows smoothly, so the rotors are fine. I have run injector cleaner a couple of times, and octane boost once. These both seemed to solve the issue, but did not make it stop, and it has gotten worse lately. My wife did put low-octane gas in the car once, but it was weeks ago.
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At least that's when I notice it,... right in that range, seems the car hesitates and then starts up again and hesitates,... and you can see the tachometer go up to around 2 k and then down to 1600 rpm,.. but I am not accelerating with the gas peddle. Thoughts on what is causing this..
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I have a 2001 Toyota Corolla with a manual transmission. There are two things going on. I’m not sure if they’re related, but I thought I’d disclose all information in case they are. When I’m fueling, the automatic shut off triggers after a few seconds. When I try to reengage it and hold the pump manually, it overflows. This forces me to squirt a little bit at a time and let it flow into the tank so it doesn’t overflow. I have tried a few gas stations with the same results.The other issue is when I need to accelerate from a stop sign, light or just stopped in traffic. I start out in first gear and the gas doesn’t seem to engage until I really rev the engine. It’s almost like nothing is happening. Most of the time I get out of the starting blocks ok. Some of the time, it’s like I’ve popped the clutch and the engine turns off. I’d be comfortable with taking the blame for being a crappy standard driver, but I have been able to drive all my other standards with no issue.
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I have a 1999 Town and Country van, 3.8L engine. It has 220K miles on it. Lately, when I am accelerating, it seems to do fine until I get to 40-55 mph. In that range, it stutters a bit. After that it runs fine, even at higher speeds. I usually don't get this stuttering at the lower speeds as I am, for example, accelerating to get on a highway. A mechanic friend of mine says that it may be a vac leak. Does this sound right, or are there other possibilities.
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I have a 2012 Ford Focus with automatic transmission with about 22k miles on it. No check engine lights on. When accelerating from standstill it always stutters a little as if it's not really 'catching on' properly (just in "first gear" it seems). It doesn't do it once you're beyond 5 - 10 mph and it doesn't do it either when for instance stepping on the gas pedal while driving. Only from standstill. It also doesn't seem to go away when the car has been driven for a little while. It's always there. What could be causing this?
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