Toyota - Corolla :: 2004 - Stalling / Running Rough And Hesitate On Acceleration
Jun 7, 2012
I'm having issues with my 2004 Toyota Corolla with 118K. Every few weeks, the car will go through a phase where it will stall out, run rough and hesitate on acceleration. Oftentimes it is accompanied with the rotten egg smell coming from the catalytic converter. When I decelerate to a stop light, the car will stall. When I start it back up, I have to rev the engine to 2000 rpm in neutral to keep it from re-stalling. Once I get up to about 10-15 mph, the car will jerk and sputter, and at 40mph, the jerking motion gets worse. If the car doesn't stall it'll run rough and have the rotten egg smell. I'm assuming the smell is from unburnt gas.
I find it happens more often when I don't let the car warm up for a few minutes. I've taken it to my mechanic, and i've gone through 2 MAF sensors, cleaned the throttle body. I changed the iridium plugs at 102K and am on top of maintenance with filters, oil and such. Of course when I bring it to the mechanic, the problems don't show up, and we are kinda blind to what could be causing the issue. Also, if I park it for a day or two after the issue occurs, the problems go away. What to look for?
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I have a 1997 Corolla with 150k miles.
I had my catalytic converter and flex pipe replaced this summer. Lately, my car has been idling rough. While stuck in some horrific stop and go traffic three weeks ago, it started to make noises as if it would stall out. It didn't, but it still sometimes makes those noises.
The car seems fine on the highway. No loss of power. I did think that the hood felt too warm on a recent trip, but the temperature gauge in the car showed no issue.
The car hesitated when I tried to start it last week, but normally starts fine. It was the first cold day of the year.
I saw some white smoke come out of the tailpipe last week. It only happened once. Coolant and oil levels are fine. The spark plugs look good.
The fill pipe has been leaking gas for several months. It leaks if the tank is more than half full and it drips a bit of gas when I fill up. Two mechanics have not been able to find the leak and have told me not to replace it until it is a problem, given the age of my car.
I took it to a mechanic today (not the one who replaced the cat). He told me that the rough idling is due to the new flex pipe being shorter than what was originally there. He assured me that the car is fine to drive long distances and that there was nothing wrong with it. There's no check engine light or anything on the dash to indicate a problem.
I should be relieved, but I'm not. I've lost confidence in my car. Can the stalling noises and rough idling be explained away by a changed exhaust system? Or are these signs of a problem about to happen?
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I have a 2006 f150 it was making a knocking noise after the engine oil temp reached 160* and made the noise to 1700rpms. I thought it was the cam phasers so I replaced them. The truck is still making the noise and running rough and stalling but not as bad and not as often. Before it did it all of the time. The truck is timed properly. I had a new cam sensor and tried it but that did not work. I watched vct on the scan tool and both cams are in sycn.
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I have a 2004 Excursion with a 6.0 Bought the truck already studded, EGR deleted, and a 54V FICM. When I bought the truck it had a hot stall, no restart problem. Found the high pressure oil leaks and resealed them by replacing the #3 injector and replacing the top injector seal in the #4 .Oil pressure reads very good now and I drove the truck for a couple weeks problem free.
Truck started smoking (white to gray) and felt like it had a miss. No misfire or contribution codes. Truck failed the bubble test and I narrowed the leak down to the passenger side by removing the banjo bolt
Banjo bolt at the front of the passenger head
Found the #3 injector loose...the copper washer
Copper washer had disintegrated/melted and appeared to be stuck to the side of the injector. Scraped off easily enough, cleaned up the injector and injector cup and reinstalled the injector with new O-rings and copper washer.
Put the truck back together and still smoked the same and still felt like it had a miss. Ran KOER test and found sometimes a contribution code for #2 and sometimes #6 .
Drove the truck to work and it didn't feel down on power...mostly just smoked and rough idle...but on the way home there was a lack of power and just as I pulled into my driveway the truck stalled...wouldn't restart. FICM voltage was good, high pressure oil read over 900, IPR was holding around 40%.
Pulled the secondary fuel cap
Secondary fuel cap to run another bubble test...there was no fuel in it...completely empty. Started to think that I had a fuel feed problem. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge
Fuel pressure gauge and drove the truck again...pressure wasn't great (45 lbs) but never dropped below 42...not even when it stalled. Pulled the cap again...dry again...yet the truck read fuel pressure.
Research showed that I was possibly pressurizing the fuel system with combustion pressure and that was possibly displacing the fuel from the fuel system. This would explain the run for a few minutes, then stall and no restart for a few minutes...I'm assuming that the pressure would bleed off and the fuel pump would start over.
Still failing the bubble test and still pointing to the passenger side. I pulled and recleaned the injector and cup...new orings
oRings and copper washer. Bubble test again...fail.
Pulled glow plug from #3 , failed bubble test still.
Pulled glow plug from #1 , failed.
Pulled #5 , failed...pulled #7 ...failed.
With no glow plugs in the passenger head I am still bubbling up to the fuel filter housing. Pulled the banjo bolt from the front of the drivers side head...no more bubbles.
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Every so often, my manual transmission Corolla will "overthrottle" during acceleration, especially shifting into 2nd and 3rd gears (and sometimes even 4th), i.e., the engine will race above the usual RPMs associated with each gear, just for a bit. This however, isn't consistent. I still need to check if the engine air filter is dirty, which I suspect could be a part of the issue.
The vehicle has ca. 124,975mi, and only started exhibiting this problem 2-3 months ago, and only in 2nd gear. Again, this issue is very intermittent, and sometimes I can go a week or two without any incidents at all. The regular maintenance (oil changes, cooling system maintenance, etc.) has been faithfully performed according the manufacturer's specifications.
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My F150 has 100,000 miles on it and hesitates and bucks on acceleration. Auto zone pulled a code which I can't remember what it was but did say it was the throttle body actuator was stuck open. I pulled the throttle body and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner put it back on. No change.
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My daughter's 2001 Corolla (3-speed transmission) is stalling in the rain. Twice in the last week it has stalled when pulling away from a stop sign. Both times she was able to restart the car and continue driving. The check engine light is not on (it works). The MAF sensor & O2 sensor (closest to the engine) were replaced last year. Would a faulty coil pack on 1 cylinder cause the car to stall?
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I have been beatingy head against the wall for the last month with this car. It started out by just running really rough and stalling out. Found out that I had a bad clamp on the air intake that attaches to the throttle body. Replace that after I already replaced the MAF. Everything was great till couple days later then the car just crank crank crank no fire....
I cleaned the grounds pulled the plugs and coils, had perfect spark. Put everything back come to find out after going thru my Bentley manuals I jumped around the fuel pump relay fuel pump kicked on perfect started great! Replaced the fuel pump relay BAM! Ran great!!!! For 2 days..... After that right when I pulled into the drive way the car would not start.... So I tried everything again.... To no avail..... Check the codes again, now I'm throwing these codes which yes I did cross reference in my Bentley manual.
P1117- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 short to ground
P1198- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 electrical malfunction
P1472- EVAP emission control LDP circuit short to ground
P1516- Intake manifold changeover valve circuit open
And the dreaded same code I've had the whole time........
P0102- Mass or volume air flow circuit low input.
I have also tried tracking down any bad wires, and testing resistance...
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1996 / 2.2 L4 / 186k / Upper engine rebuild 30k ago
Car was driven on a errand by my mother. Upon trying to leave for home, the car started running very rough, and stalling. From the description she gave on the phone, it sounded like a plugged up exhaust. I told her to get some fresh gas and ease it home after.
When I checked the car for codes, I got 2. A P0300 and a P0122. Okay, so the throttle position switch has taken a dump, that's easy enough. The car has 186k miles, but my constant nannying usually soothes her, so surely that's all, right? God, I wish that turned out to be true.
I pulled the plugs, and #4 was gas fouled and sooty, #2 and #3 looked lean, and #1 was partially wet fouled. There was also gasoline in the oil. When the car would run, it would run the gambit from idling semi rough then stalling out and refusing to restart, almost like it was flooded, to idling scarily bad and no pedal response, to running too high of an idle and idle searching.
Since I have:
Replaced the TPS
Replaced the IAC
Replaced the CTS
Replaced the MAP
Replaced the ICM
Replaced the FPR
Replaced both ignition coils
Replaced plugs and wires
Replaced the fuel injectors
Replaced the PCV
Replaced the fuel filter
Checked the pintle on the EGR (looked good, cleaned)
Checked for Vacuum leaks (as best I could)
Checked the Fuel pressure (40 PSI) (drops to 20 after shutoff)
Checked for exhaust restriction (ran open exhaust manifold)
That brings us to today. New injectors just in, and the engine will run, but rough and loud. It almost sounds like the firing order is off slightly (I am using 1342 or from L to R 4132) and throttle control is almost non existent. It also shuts off when its warm almost like its flooded. No codes are showing. (despite discovering a sensor in back being unplugged and the O2 sensor being unplugged at times).
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I was told that my 1997 kia Sephia needed a new catalytic converter by a very reliable shop. My car had been stalling out and running very rough. They did replace the distributor cap which seems to have increase the overall performance and that same day i had a smog check and passed with flying colors! Why would I still need to replace my converter if I passed smog. My car has only 36k on it.
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I have a 2010 Equinox with about 52000 miles on it. At about 48,000 I took it in for the 50G maintenance. The car ran with a fluttery sound that I did not really notice until it was brought to my attention. Recently the car began running rough and stalling when idling. there were no warning or indicator lights lit. I had OnStar run a remote diagnostic and they said there were no codes. The day after the diagnostic the check engine light went on , while at the same tie the rough idle and stalling went away.
I brought the car in for service at the dealer. They said that the car had several codes indicating low oil and the car was down 2 quarts but there was no leak. They also said the noise I heard was the timing belt. The noise is gone after the service and the car is running smoothly. Coincidentally, or not, I got a notice from GM saying they were changing the oil monitoring software on the 2010 Equinox to recommend me frequent oil changes.
1) What could cause the car to loose 2 quarts of oil over less than 6000 mile? Is this normal or an Equinox problem.
2) Would low oil cause the timing belt to make a noise.
3) Do I have a lemon and am I being ripped off y the dealer?
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My 03 Sante Fe is running a little rough and is stalling. My Mechanic said this P code was going to run me $1300. I'm not very mechanical , but this just seems very high. He said that aftermarket sensors would not work and only Hundai parts for the fix.........
2003 Sante Fe, LX, 3.7 l engine
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I am fairly new to this stuff but I just got a 85 Ranger 4x4 and its running pretty rough it will be fine then all of a sudden it will bog right out and want to stall so I have to keep my foot planted on the gas and it pops and spudders and eventually runs normal again? Its a 2.8 V6 carb...
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Every time I reach about 64 mph, the car begins to sputter spontaneously. As I give constant gas to keep it at that speed, the car hesitates, as if the gas isn't combusting consistently. This sputter also happens sometimes when I'm simply accelerating for example from a stop sign, however, it is CONSISTENTLY doing it at about 64 mph. I can go faster and the sputtering seems to lessen (at 70+mph, as long as I'm accelerating). Took to mechanic, he couldn't figure it out, although they suggest getting yet another computer.I've replaced:Distributor capDistributorSpark plugsComputer (from ebay, remanufactured)
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I have a 94 buick lesabre custom that is stalling intermittently and runs rough intermittently. We have had it for diagnostics and it could not read the codes. We changed the computer and it still can't read the codes. The diagnostic tool says it cannot connect when it is plugged in or it displays white flecks like snow flakes on the tool screen. It is an OBDII. The pin structure of the data connector port is two pins top row and bottom row two pins some blanks and one pin. We don't know how to fix it with no diagnostic codes and we don't know what to do to get the codes because we have changed the computer.
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E99 Romps on start up and randomly dying. Bought this truck about 3 weeks ago. Previous owner mentioned he had issues with it getting hot and shutting off and not starting. Has new IPR, ICP and pigtail, I just put in a new fuel filter. Has 206k miles on it and is the 4R100.
The past two days after sitting all night I have been cycling the key twice and it hasn't done its romp. Typically when it does I can tap the pedal once and it goes away. This I could deal with but its started to die randomly while driving, never while cruising down the road. Its either just after starting it and rolling slowly or slowing down for a stop or to turn. When it dies, I can put it in neutral and it fires back up no problem. SES light usually comes on for about 10-15 seconds after but goes away.
Replaced the grey CPS that was in it with a dark grey one from RiffRaff Diesel. Got a Edge CTS2 to figure out the problem, the codes Im getting are P1280 and P1247.
The ICP pigtail they replaced they spliced on with butt connectors. I plan on pulling it to check for oil and make sure it does look new and redo the connections with solder then shrink wrap them.
I was told to check the IPR% under full throttle which I did and it never went higher than 36.7
The truck did start running rough around 45-50 mph and I did get a video of the ICP jumping around while cruising down the road.
Then I went through a drive through and the truck kind of hiccuped like it wanted to stall and the ICP went right to 725 PSI and idled up and stayed there until I started to leave.
Truck is pretty much stock, K&N air intake and muffler cut out and straight piped.
Here is a link to the videos I got :
e99 7.3 ICP fluctuation while driving - YouTube
e99 ICP steady at 725 PSI after acting like it wanted to stall. - YouTube
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2 questions regarding our 2001 F150 Supercrew. My 2 questions are:
My 2001 Ford F150 Supercrew (5.4L, 230,000 miles)has the check engine light on with the code reader telling me that it is the P0174. The truck would run rough when cold (usually in the mornings) and sometimes it would get close to stalling out when coming to a stop light. So we would quickly put it in park and give it some gas to rev it up a bit. After the truck gets warmed up, it runs great with no hint of the rough idle. Since this all started I have changed out the PCV valve and replaced the PCV hose (including the elbow). I have also replaced the Idle Air Control unit but that didn't really make a difference.
We then experienced a cylinder #4 misfire which we resolved by changing out the cop with a new Motorcraft unit. The misfire went away but we still had the problem of running rough at idle to the point of stalling out at stops when the engine is cold. A few weeks ago we cleaned the MAF sensor and that seemed to work. The truck doesn't run as rough now (when cold) at stop-lights, but occasionally it will still have the loping idle. We cleared the check engine code and it stayed off for about a week before returning.
I don't know what else to check other than trying to see if there is some type of vacuum leak, but I don't have access to a smoke machine nor would I know how or where to hook one up. Removing and cleaning the throttle body would work? What could be causing the trouble, or what I should do to further isolate or troubleshoot the problem? I saw a you-tube video on the F150 intake manifold gasket possibly being the problem and although I hope that isn't the trouble with my truck, if it is then I will have to deal with it. We need the truck to get to work and the car is now due for a registration renewal, but we can't get a California smog certificate with the check engine light on.
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I have a 2001 Toyota celica GT auto. It has 120k miles. I seem to have an issue that really is not causing a problem except for annoyance. After coming to a stop the car seems to exhibit the signs of stalling (car idles rough, shakes a bit) however the car never stalls. Once I start driving all is well. Now I took it to the dealer and they replaced the Idle Air Control Valve which is under the throttle body. They said it was getting stuck and due to the higher mileage possible. It was replaced and the problem is still there. The funny thing is even though the car exhibits these stalling symptoms the idle does not drop below 500 rpm (both dealer and I have verified this).
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Yesterday, I had to accelerate really really fast...ever since then, my fan does not turn off (when the car starts). I just started the car cold and it is running. I think the fan relay has gone out. I'm not sure which fan exactly...but when I opened the hood, I see that the fan behind the radiator is the one that is spinning.
Where is the relay for the fan is in the main junction box under the hood (near the front left strut)? Can I put the relay out (by hand) while the car is running? Can I also drive to work for a day or so with the fan on while I wait for a fan relay?
Toyota 2000 Corolla (CE 4-spd auto) with 60k miles.
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Just as the title says, 214k great shape just wont get going more you mash the less it goes.... fuel pump already replaced, can undo battery and take a while to reset feels to do fine then goes back to bogging down... TPS ? idle air control?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla with under 90,000 mi. Sometimes while driving, the car will refuse to accelerate and slow down to about 10 mi an hour. The only way to fix it, is to pull over and turn the car off and restart it. It immediately responds and it doesn't happen again. This lack of acceleration usually occurs in the first 5 mi of driving. I have a new battery...
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