Toyota - Corolla :: Leak At Windshield Washer Pump
Mar 5, 2015
20+ year old Corolla. There's a leak that appears to be at the point where the windshield washer pump attaches to the plastic bottle. I've had a leak in that area before, where the hose attaches to the pump, but that was just a crack in the hose. This one appears to be where the pump attaches to the plastic bottle. The pump is on the outside of the bottle, not inside. Is the pump held there by friction, like with an o-ring?
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I have a 2006 Solara and overnight the windshield washer pump stopped working. I thought the problem was no washer fluid, filled it, and nothing. I checked the hose near the hood and nothing came out. The motor isn't humming like it is trying to pump, so I checked the fuse (I think I checked the right one, not sure, it was a 15a) and it appeared to be good. I checked the wires going to the pump with a multimeter and didn't get power, so is there any other "secret" fuse I am missing. I know on an older car I had, the fuses were sometimes mixed with other items and not labeled.
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09 Toyota Corolla 75,000 miles. The garage where I have my car serviced 2X a year (oil change, minor tune-up at 7K miles) says the water pump is starting to leak. I haven't noticed anything, but the mechanics suggest a $600 repair. First, is this a common problem with my model car? Second, is the estimated fee appropriate? Is the car or am I in any immediate danger (how long can I put this off)? I've only been going to this garage for a couple years as my previous CarTalk-referred mechanic retired. I'm not sure whether to trust the new guys (no longer a single individual, but a group of mechanics in a middle class residential suburban neighborhood).
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I just bought a 1995 S10 4x4 for my son and the windshield washer pump is not working. It doesn't make a sound and I have measured that no voltage is going to the hot side of the harness going to the pump. The ground tested fine. It was also having wipers issues where they stopped at random places when turned off and the timing was screwy. I removed and resoldered the wiper pulse board and cleaned up the contacts. Wipers are good, but still no squirter.
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While I was at the shop getting the steering fixed I asked about the inop washer pump. They told me the pump failed.
Anyway 30 minutes later I have replaced it but still does not work.
So what next?
Which fuses do I check (I already checked them but give me specific numbers)
Where are the relay and how do I check them?
How do I test the pump?
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2001 XLT V10 4x4 Excursion
If I push button for windshield washer the wipers come on but no fluid sprays on windshield. Same with rear....wiper comes on but no spray.
Jumped washer pump directly from battery and pump comes on and water squirted on windshield.
Had kids push washer button while I held volt meter on washer pump power and ground wires.....Nothing 0.0 volts at pump, but wipers came on.
All fuses are new, is there a relay? I did swap them around with no change.
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I own an Elantra GLS 2012, and starting a week ago, I noticed my windshield washer was coming out through the nozzles with low pressure (1/2 of the windshield). Yesterday one stopped working and the left nozzle is "spitting" (1/3 of the windshield).
I thought they are clogged and today I tried to unclog them using computer air cleaner, but air was coming out through the left nozzle with pressure and nothing through the right nozzle. When I tried to wash my windshield, no pressure on my right nozzle and low pressure on my left nozzle. Same as before.
I plugged off the tube from the hose connector under the hood, and if I pull back the control bar, I have a stream of washer liquid over 3m (10ft) long, but if I put my finger on the hose, I don't have pressure on the windshield washer.
My question is: the nozzles are clogged or the pump is dead?
I know the clogged nozzles are not under warranty, but what about the pump?
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I have a 2003 Explorer Sport and the windshield washer pump is not getting power. Owners manual does not show fuse or relay locations.
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I recently noticed that our washer fluid is leaking. We had a massive snowstorm just over a week ago, and we accordingly went snowboarding. After returning that night, the fluid warning went off. I filled it, and that was that. We went again the next day, in which I used no washer fluid at all. The wipers alone took care of it. Anyhow, that night I kept getting the signal to top up the washer fluid again! I had added a full gallon the night before! So, I figured something was up.
Last night, I actually witnessed it dripping from underneath, about where you think it would. I wasn't able to see the actual tank, or any of the lines leading up to the filling spout, so I couldn't tell if there's a crack in anything, or if there's a bad connection somewhere.
Before that, the only indication that there might be an actual leak was "blueness" on the garage floor, but it honestly didn't look like any more than what you would get while filling the tank and having some miss and land on the ground. It wasn't a massive puddle or anything. The other indication was the "top off" warning.
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My 2004 Phaeton has apparently developed a leak with the windshield washer fluid resivoir. Last week the check light came on for low washer fluid. I filled it and now a week later it's on again.
Is there anything in particular that I need to check? I thought I recalled reading about an issue concerning this but I've not found it.
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I have a 2005 F-250 6.0 Powerstroke.
My washer fluid pump is not working, it was a few weeks ago but now it is broken. The Owner's Manual only has the listing fuse 33 for "cluster, 4x4, wipers". It looks like some of the older models have an actual fuse for the "washer fluid pump". I checked fuse 33 under the dash and it is ok. What fuse controls the washer fluid pump?
The pump does not make noise when activated, so I'm starting at the fuse but I don't know what the hell is going on.
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getting weak spray/dribble (yea, it could be a "personal problem " on the drivers side squirter. Left side great. I have replaced both squirters and blew out the line where it T's over to the drivers side.
Still weak.. I'm thinking its most likely low pressure coming off the pump and maybe it's time to replace I haven't crawled under there to inspect placement of pump. Thought while there I would also replace the reservoir.
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I recently purchased a 2003 Explorer. Two weeks after I bought it I found out the motor on the windshield washer water pump was shot. The dealership fixed it for free. About a week after I got it back when I was driving in the morning to work I noticed the check gauge light go on and saw that my temp gauge was pointed at HOT!! I pulled over and stopped immediately. As soon as I slowed down the temp gauge went back down to normal. It happened 2 or 3 more times and had it back at the dealership. They are stumped. They sent it to a Ford dealership and they couldn't find anything either.
They said they have checked everything and it is not overheating. They even put a thermometer on it while they drove it and it didn't get over 205* I am surprised it didn't do it to them because it happens almost every morning. I only work 4.3 miles from my house so its not like I am driving very far. It usually happens at about 3 miles. As soon as I see it going up (and I watch it a lot!!) I take my foot off the gas and start to slow down or barely press the brake it goes right back to normal. Then it stays at normal the rest of the day. Is it the sensor or the wiring or did the do something to it when the fixed the washer motor?
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Filled up the windshield washer tank this morning and could not get the sprayer to work. Looked under the truck and it looks like all I put in is on the drive. Any one else had issues with 2011 F350 washer tanks?
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My daughter has a 2004 Toyota Corolla and the "service engine" light came on. The diagnosis was that the water pump needed to be replaced.
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I have a 2003 toyota corolla. For the past year I have not been able to pump a full tank of gas without the pump automatically shutting off. It has progressed to the point where I have to stand at the pump and continually restart the pump as it clicks off over and over and over.
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I am a first time Toyota car owner. I bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE this past Saturday. It has only 42,000 miles on it, and I got a pretty decent deal on it! I'm still getting used to how the car drives, but it seems to be running great. The only thing I notice sometimes is that I am coasting downhill (not using the brakes) I notice a bit of a vibration sound coming from what sounds like the back windshield. If it keeps occurring, I might take it to the dealer for them to check it out. With my luck, the issue might not even happen though with them there.
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My sister's 2010 corolla with 80k has a rattling. She sent a video. The oil level is fine. She had a belt squeak previously that she had fixed. My concern is a bad water pump. Is there a service bulletin on this that we can confirm?
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My 2006 would not start today after I got gas. I drove the car for an hour with no problems. I then stopped to get gas it would not start. I knew the engine was still warm because i had just stopped after driving for an hour. yet the temp gauge read cold. After a while of trying to start the car with it only cranking, not turning over I waited. After waiting a while the temp gauge started to work again showing a warm engine. The engine was also warm to the touch. I tried to start the car once the temp Gauge worked again and the car turned over with no problems and little effort.
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I have a 94 Corolla with 239 K After pulling into my drive way and turning the car off I went back to start it ..Car turned over but no start ...ok backed the car out of the drive used the other car . Came back the next day car started pulled it back into the driveway ....Went to start it again later that day ..no start this happened for a couple of days ..It would start and then it wouldn’t..... Checked the fuel pump ..its not working ..The relay is good ..
There is power coming into the fuel pump but. Only one lead with power ...I power the fuel pump direct and it works ...I take it to a shop to have them look at it and they say I have no spark and that there is power going to my fuel pump ..he said there was power but he did not say if the fuel pump worked ...The gas gauge works but the fuel pump still .
So the fuel pump works if i power it direct and I have no spark ..so I could change the distributor & coil and go back to checking ground wires to the fuel pump BUT anything else going on that might be causing these issues. The car was running perfect before this happened.
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My car was performing poorly then Stalled while driving, no start since. Put starting fluid in open throttle body for 5 secs, then tried to crank.
fuel pump doesn't turn on (can hear it) for 2 seconds When the Ignition switch is in ON position, You can hear it when cranking in Run position though. So this makes me think that Its not building enough pressure
Pulled it out, hooked it up to a 12V batt and it works.
Someone else changed the spark plugs. Fuel comes of of the line just before the fuel rail. Doesn't squirt like there's a lot of pressure.
Pulled the injectors clean them put them back in with new O rings. Fuel only came out of 2 injectors when cranking.
Pulled the spark plugs check for spark while cranking. They all spark. Put new ones in.
Pump does send fuel when cranking which means the pump, and pump relay should be working I assume.
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