Toyota - Supra :: Water In Gas - How To Clean The Tank
Apr 21, 2015
I just got back to town with my Supra, 298,000 mi, 7M-GE 3.0L engine. I think I picked up some bad gas on the road. It's acting like I've got dome water in the tank. I've already run a couple of tankfuls. I know the proper way to fix this is to drop the tank and clean it out. But, I can't do that until this weekend, maybe. It's been a couple of decades since I dealt with this. What can I add to the gas to get rid of some of it until I can drop the tank?
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I am driving a 1987 mk3 Toyota supra with original engine and transmission. I live in Arizona and it drives perfectly fine in the early morning or late at night, but during the day when temperatures reach past 90°, my rpms will reach up to 5-7000, but won't be gaining speed, thus happens at stops and while driving, my car is an automatic, it does this when I enter 3rd gear.
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I have a supra that is only running on the first and last cylinder. It was running poor and I pulled off the spark plug wires to see how it ran. After more testing I removed all 4 middle plug wires and it kept running the exact same. What would be causing this? The plugs and wires are new.
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1983 Celica-Supra P-Type, 38K miles. Garage kept, never abused... I have a really hard time shifting into 4th gear. Rebuilt clutch master & slave, adjusted pedal. Buttery smooth 1st-3rd. 4th does not grind but requires a lot of force to shift. 5th shifts ok, but feels vague; hard to tell it's in gear.
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Car spits and sputters when engine is cold. When engine is warm car runs fine. I believe that my cold start injector or my cold start injector time switch is bad. 7MGE Toyota Supra ....
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What can I do to fix this? 1987 Supra. No brake lights go on when I press on the brake, including the middle light. Tail lights do work, but no brake lights. It has been somewhat intermittent as well...
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From stop. When I accelerate it takes a long time to get to drive. It feels like a lag time. What is wrong with my car?
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Anyway here's the problem. My son has a 2000 Ranger 3.0L V6 he left me when he had to move back up to Las Vegas. I was out checking it out today and pulled the radiator cap, man what a mess. It looks like reddish mud in there and the overflow tank. It's not milky like oil in there it's more like mud. It's caked up on the bottom of the cap and inside the filler neck and the coolant looks the same.
So the questions are, what's the best way to clean it all out and what would cause it?
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I have a 2006 Rav 4 with about 75,000 miles on it. Recently, the dealer maintenance department recommended a top engine clean. What is that and is it necessary?
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my dealer said the fuel injectors needed cleaning on my 04 toyoto prius (77000mi). this service is not in my maintenance schedule. Is it a come on ($55) or a good prevention item?
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I have had my airride for a few months now, and it is time to drain the water from the air tank. I have a water trap that I use every time i fill up at a gas station, but I would like to drain the tank to make sure there is not water built up in there. I have scoured the interwebs and have not came across a video or specific set of instructions on how to do this.
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How can I test to find out if there is water in my fuel tank , fuel lines, etc. The symptoms are obvious, how do I test for sure. In the event that I'm correct, what can I do to get it out of the tank and fuel system.
I suspect that a lower form of life has put water in the gas tank of my 2003 Escape 3.0L . I sent it to a shop, that was a nightmare . They came up with every misfire and etc. Including bad windshield wipers burned out light bulbs .
Trying to sell me new coils plugs , etc etc ... even though I kept telling them that of course its misfiring if there is water in the fuel. Please test for water in the gas .
I finally went and took the car with intake plenum pulled off. Paid them half of R&R for pulling the plenum and I'm back to square one. They did everything but check for water in my gas tank or fuel lines.
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2003 Pontiac Sunfire, 103K miles, a little overdue for an oil change, but no major (or minor) problems before now:
Last Monday my car was running fine until, on my way out of town, I gassed up. Immediately, my car started acting strange: immediately died upon leaving the station, didn't want to start, RPMs all over the place, acceleration & braking weren't responding properly, TERRIBLE idling, difficult handling at higher speeds (>45 mph), check engine light eventually came on, as well as the battery light (for just a minute).
Needless to say, I decided not to go out of town and took the car to a local mechanic (by this time the car was dying regularly and absolutely did not want to start). This morning he told me that I have water in my fuel tank and detailed a draining process that sounds expensive. However, after reading several "water in gas tank" threads on here, I'm skeptical. As a young woman living the in the South, I'm sure you all can understand my suspicion. So, is he giving me the run around? For what it's worth, I do live in southern Louisiana - hot, humid, rains daily - water isn't exactly scarce here.
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Yesterday I found that the water tank is empty, and when I added some water I noticed that there a white foam on the surface of the water, it smells like oil. could it be leaking from engine or gearbox ??
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Hesitation and power loss have returned. I removed all four spark plugs and found that the spark plug on the driver side of the engine, or side closest to the inverter, and its coil pack were covered in dried/sticky oil with no loose oil present around them. Pics added to new post #11 of coil pack and spark plug.
I couldn't find anything that really matched the symptoms I was having this afternoon on the way home from work. After letting the engine idle for about a minute to get through Stage 1, I pulled out of work but noticed I kept hearing a slight whining from the inverter (radio was off and windows were down) while going uphill on the road out of our parking lot. Speed was in the range of 25 to 30 MPH.
Torque showed I was pulling between 10 and 20 amps from the HV battery but what I noticed that was REALLY weird was that the timing advance gauge showed I was running around 2 to 3 degrees (?) instead of normally being around 13 or 14+ depending on how quickly I'm accelerating.
And the more acceleration I demanded, the the more amps were coming from the battery and the RPMs on the engine would go up, but the timing advance still remained below 10 degrees. I didn't hear any knocking but I could definitely feel the lack of power.
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Coming back from Busch Gardens today. Filled up at a Shell. Got on the road and within minutes got a check engine light and the throttle started surging like when you have water in the tank (know from past experience-don't ask). Is the check engine light what would come on if I had water in the tank?
I was able to make it home after adding one bottle of dry-gas but the car is still doing it...major loss of power during mid-level throttle. I was able to keep the engine light from coming on if I was very careful with the throttle and kept the revs around 3K or higher.
Hate to take it to the stealership if not necessary. Burned 1/4 tank of gas on the way home. Should I add a second bottle of dry-gas and top off the tank with fresh gas before taking it in? Don't want to damage injectors or?
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My friend's '04 Sebring is still overheating even after these steps have been taken: heads were warped -- had a professional shave them down and rebuild engine; new radiator; new thermostat; then removed thermostat to try this way, and bled the system for air bubbles (more than once).
The car can run about five miles - then bubbling/boiling in the water recovery tank. The mechanic said there is a small crack on the water reservoir (a small plastic box) near where the bolt connects to the engine. Could this crack affect the pressure of the system and cause this overheating?
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After sitting on a steep driveway for three years, no starting done all that time,I filled all tanks, started it up, drove it on and off 8 times for 50 miles, air in top radiator tank along with rusty water, dare we flush the system being 280k miles old with 40k on new radiator/ also is there a socklike screen over the fuelpump in the tank that may need cleaning to start quicker than two to three starter attempts?
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I am a little skeptical of this, but someone told me that since I got water in the gas tank of my 2003 F250 I should blow compressed air into the schrader valve on the fuel rails to eject it all into a bucket under the disconnected fuel filter.
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My 1986 Toyota celica supra stick shifter is pretty loose and I don't like it. Any way I can tighten it up?
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A couple of weeks ago I went to the gas station and was unable to fill the tank as the pump kept clicking off. I assumed it was a problem with the pump. Because I was in a hurry, I left and stopped at another station later in the day. I was able to pump 11 gallons into the tank, but the gauge still registered near empty. The local dealer told us it was a problem with the gauge and replaced a sending unit. This appeared to fix the problem, but yesterday morning when I stopped at the gas station, I was only able to pump 2 gallons because the pump kept clicking off. The gauge reads about 1/4 tank.
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