Toyota - Tacoma :: 1999 - After Installation Of Skid Plate Shut Itself Off - Only Door Light Unaffected?
Jan 26, 2015
I installed a new engine in my pre runner. upon completion and a thorough check of fluids connections and such we lite it off ran beautiful and everything seemed to function.Put the hood back on and installed the skid plates and got ready to pull it out of the garage that's when things went pear shaped!!!My son fired it up it ran for a few seconds then shut its self off. the idiot lights would stay on even after you turn off the key and remove it.
Put the key back in turn it to run but not to start position and that will reset everything. the only thing un effected is the door lights. if the key is in it you can step on the brake and the ac clutch comes in and everything goes goofy. turn the key off then back on and try any function be it headlights ac brakes pedal or attempting to start and it goes all goofy. Where to start looking. Ran great for an hour before all of this started.
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I have a 2011 Toyota tacoma with 35k miles. Yesterday while driving at about 70-75mph on the freeway with no warning the vehicle shut down and the engine light came on. It made a clunk about the the time it shut off, it wasn't very loud but I could feel it. I'n not sure if that noise was just the vehicle powering down or transmission kicking from the change in torque? I pulled off the freeway, there were no fluids leaking, serpentine belt was in place. The truck will turn over but not start. The check engine light flashes rapidly.
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How to install rivets to the subframe and rails of the car I can't figure it out to save my life and it just says to put the ecs bolt and but rivet installer but it literally does nothing the rivet literally slides in and out am I missing something.
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I have a problem with my 2005 Prius ABS Skid plate module. It was defective and I replaced it with a unit from a 2007 car. The brakes work perfect now but I cannot get the warning lights to go off. The codes that come up on the computer are codes which indicate a loss of communication between other modules.
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I have an 09. I heard a rattle on a rough road and crawled underneath the engine. The right front skid plate bolt is missing. What size bolt belongs there.
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Looking to install rear sway bar on 2001 Ex. and noticed a skid plate looking thing in front of passenger side rear shock. Two questions:
1. What is that, and
2. Do I need to remove it to put on sway Bar?
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I recently bought a 2007 toyota Camry le v6 with less than 38,000 miles it currently has 39,300 miles and my check engine light is on along with the VSC and a skid control light (car with squiggle lines behind it) we have a had lots of rain here where I live and I had to drive through a couple deep water puddles. I looked up online and it said The engine light may turn on if the VSC and skid control lights are on. Could this be that the sensors maybe got wet? I don't think anything should be wrong with this car considering it's a toyota with less than 40k miles
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My airbag light came on in my 2006 Tacoma, had it fixed, as my dealer told me:
1. It would not deploy during a accident.
2. Could not get a inspection sticker.
3. It was not covered by my warranty.
4. It was diagnosed as a faulty spiral cable.
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I have a 1997 toyota tacoma. The truck runs great. Last year I replaced the front calipers and breakpads. I drive the truck maybe 3,000 miles per year. The issue I have is that the brake light will not turn off. I checked the hand brake and it works fine. The switch on the handbrake is fine too. The really unusual thing is that randomly it will turn off. usually around 30-40MPH or when I have slammed on the brake. The brake fluid is fine. Is there a sensor in the rear on the rear pads that I may need to replace?
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Was installing led license plate lights and they turned on for a second then shut off, I began trying to switch them around and do whatever I could but still wouldn't light up even put the stock ones in again and they wouldn't work.
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License plate light comes on when any door opens? it fades out a little after it's shut. stays on for a minute or so. (like interior lights would if i had the door dome switch on).
Any way to turn this license plate light off for this function? stays on if the hatch is open, or any door. I car camp a lot and crack the hatch for air. license plate light stays on.
Also the lower door lights, when they are individually open. I'd like them to not come on. Yes I could just remove those bulbs.
I had installed led lights on the whole car/ every bulb inside and out. even fog lights. i didn't replace the hid headlights, though I'd like to.
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I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma pickup, 5 speed stick 4 cylinder. When I first start it up it runs at a lower idle than it should. But as soon as it warms up just a bit the idle goes to about 12-15K rpm. Also, when it sits during the day and it's warm outside it will start up with the fast idle.
I don't know if this is coincidence or not but, I found a rabbit sleeping under the hood during the winter (this has been going on for a while). The rabbit chewed through a vacuum hose and a spark plug wire. The vacuum hose was split right by the fitting so I just cut off the 1 1/2" of tubing and re-attached it. The spark plug wire I didn't know was damaged until I drove it for about 5 miles or so when I finally got out to see why it was still running bad. I then had to drive another 5 or so miles to the auto parts store to replace it. I have replaced all the spark plug wires just to be sure. What this would be?
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I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma manual shift and when driving with the air conditioning on my truck makes an odd noise. The noise is very sporatic but seems to happen most at about 50MPH and 70MPH. I am going to try and type out the sound...."Chht" It is quick and only happens once at a time. The power of the engine drops when it happens as though it may cut out. But it is very quick.
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A couple of days ago I removed the key from my 1999 Toyota Tacoma (175,000 mies)and the power stayed on. Specifically, the ignition was in the proper "Lock" position when the key was removed, but the radio continued to play and the dash clock stayed lit.
Normally, prior to this change, the radio turns off with the ignition being rotated to "Lock" and the clock LED turns off. There hasn't been any abnormal force applied to the ignition. As well, I haven't noticed any other electrical issues, but it still is operating in this abnormal way.
After 175,000 miles worth of starts has my ignition switch worn to the point of "shorting on"?
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I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4X4 pickup that is running terrible at any RPM under 1800. It is also bad under acceleration at any RPM, or when the a/c is on. The truck is showing no problem codes at all. I have been throwing parts at it with no success. I have replaced in order - the air cleaner, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, and even the timing belt.
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Passenger side brake light is not working. Bulb is fine. Seems that the "plunger action" in the socket may be lacking. I put some WD in there.....worked for a day or so....now not working. Can I replace this socket or do I need an entire lens assembly?
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Ok so long story short, my Viper 2 way alarm, instead of the brain being wired to each of the 4 doors individually, the installer ran 1 wire to the dome light. seems to work fine as far as arming/disarming/locking/unlocking, but since the dome light stays on for 10 seconds or whatever after the door is shut.
When I arm it, the 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but theres a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.
can i change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? i want there to be NO delay, if possible. if not, i may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.
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A couple of years ago I began to hear a high-pitched, metallic, chirping/chittering/rustling noise - sort of like tiny birds or insects - coming from somewhere behind me in my 1999 Toyota Tacoma pickup. The sound would only occur at speeds between about 30 and 55 mph, and would become louder after a long period of driving.
Pressing down the accelerator would bring it on, but it would be loudest and chirpiest during the act of letting up on the accelerator. Coasting down a mountain road with my foot off the gas after a long day of driving made it very loud!
I've had a couple of mechanics listen to it (one elderly car guy couldn't hear sounds that high-pitched) and have sat my brother in the back of the truck to try to figure out where it's coming from. The noise is still there, and can occur at lower speeds than formerly. In fact it's there pretty continuously above about 15 mph, but still varies with acceleration as above.
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I took my truck in because the tire pressure monitor light was on. I tried resetting it and that didn't work. I took the truck to the tire store where I purchased the tires. They checked all the sensors with test equipment and 4 out of 5 were bad. So I had them replace all the sensors including the spare. The light is still on. I followed the reset procedure and confirmed all 5 tires were at 32 psi. when I perform the reset the light blinks once and then stays on. What Now?
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After having the rear axle seal replaced 3rd time, my 2004 Toyota makes a sound/noise behind the dash, drivers side, in the engine compartment. Noise is intermittent and only when braking. Hard to describe....electronic sound. Brake pedal feels like ABS system is kicking in. But no ABS light comes on. Mechanics all tell me, "when light comes on, bring it back". Had the brake system flushed today? Still makes the noise.
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My 1999 Toyota Tacoma (Ext Cab, 4x4 TRD) has 162K miles and now the clutch pedal intermittently sticks to the floor. I have to pull it off the floor with my toes while driving and have also felt the pedal start to pull back towards the floor on its own while the truck is in gear.
I'm looking for some wisdom as a few blogs/websites point towards a master cylinder, others say the master and slave, and my local auto shop said I need to replace the entire clutch assembly and throttle bearing. My truck is no spring chicken anymore but I'd like to keep it running for a few more years...
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