TrailBlazer :: 2004 - Check Engine Light Came On And It Would Not Run Pass 15 Miles Per Hour
Jan 26, 2014
My friend has a 2004 Trailblazer with a 4.2. He was driving it a few days ago and the check engine light came on and it would not run pass 15 miles per hour. He turned the truck off and re-started it. The light went off and the problem went away. The scan tool came up with an old code that that throttle body sensor was bad or the throttle body needed cleaned. We cleaned the throttle body and ran it and it ran fine. Now here is the problem. When the heater is on and the truck is at idle, the truck will idle at 2000 rpm, then kick back to normal then kick back to 2000 rpm and then keep repating this issue. If we shut the heat off, the truck idles fine.
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The mechanic told me the oxygen sensor needs to be replaced but it is not an essential item. Can this be bypassed in order to have the car pass. Its not a safety issue. My car is a 98 and has 147,000 miles on it. It leaks oil, power steering fluid, the heat does not always work and I am shopping for a new car and do not want to spend money on anything not needed
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I've got a check engine light on but the truck runs fine. I checked the fluid levels everything seemed normal. Any special trick that I could try to reset this check engine light myself? It's got the 4.6 L, Stock no mods, been keeping the regular service intervals at the dealership.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer LS/LT 4.2 liter 2wd. I have been trying to get it smoged, but can't clear the code. P0171 - Lean Bank 1.
I've been having a parts throwing contest with it, but it has been winning and my wallet is losing.
I have changed the air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, changed both O2 sensors, changed the secondary air valve and relay. I've done the carb cleaner spray test around the intake and vacuum lines, with no spikes in RPM.
Most recent try was a couple bottles of Techron concentrate with premium chevron gas.(still waiting to see if the code hits again)
Next steps are checking the intake bolts(to see if they are torqued) and intake gaskets, check for exhaust leaks at the exhaust manifold, and checking the MAP sensor.
Freeze frame data from the most recent hit on the code is below.
***Fuel system 1 - CL***Fuel system 2 - NA***Calc Load(%) - 30.2***ECT(deg c) - 48***STFT B1(%) - 3.9***LTFT B1(%) - 22.7***MAP(kPa) - 33***Eng RPM - 809***Veh speed(km/h) - 0***Spark Adv (deg) - 10.5***IAT(deg c) - 20***MAF (G/s) - 5.82***TPS(%) - 15.3***Air status - NA.
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my 2004 aveo gallops when idling. when i put it in gear (automatic) it takes off by itsself. i dont have to touch the gas. going down the road it will climb to 50-60 miles an hour without touching the gas. i DO NOT have cruise control. what is wrong here?
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My 2004 Pontiac Bonneville has this problem sometimes when I start it up in the rain, if I start it up in the morning. It will sputter while I am in drive or reverse, and driving below 40 MPH. When I hit 40, it goes away and then will come back when I slow down or stop. It usually goes away after 20-30 minutes of driving.
This never happens when it's dry. My car runs smooth and normally when it's dry. When I took it into the shop, they could not find a problem.
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I had my transmission fluid changed because it was leaking from the pan. I did the job myself but called VW to confirm how much fluid I needed. They told me the wrong amount but we realized that after we did the job.. they did the repair for a huge discount and I only paid $200 bucks for the work for them to "fix" what they messed up. Volkswagen did it and I got the car serviced at the end of April basically. now its the first week of July and under 90 days since the car was service and now it is shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd gear or 35 miles to 45 miles per hour. The car isn't throwing a transmission code I have a vag com and there is no code coming up on that.
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe, v6, and the check engine light and "ESC OFF" lights are on consistently.
I read the check engine light may be the gas cap so I replaced it but the light is still on. Took the car to Advanced Auto Parts and they said it was related to the cruise control.
I also read that the ESC OFF light may be due to alignment issues. I had an alignment done last Saturday but the light is still on. When they checked the check engine light they said it was related to the emissions. This was at a Firestone shop.
Any common cause for these lights to be on at 30,000 miles? I changed the transmission fluid also recently which the manual says to do at 30,000 miles.
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My check engine light came on at 102,000 miles. The dealer service dept. says that the diagnostic showed no clear cause(?)but I need new spark plugs ($240),ejectors cleaned, and of course the cost of the diagnostic ($130) The total was around $475. Am I being ripped?? My big question is what will they do to get the light out?? Should I disconnect the battery and reset the clock and radio buttons to see if it goes out? Then I can worry again if it comes back on.
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I have an issue that keeps recurring intermittently that I cannot seem to figure out. The car is a 2006 Sonata with a 4-cylinder and about 130k miles. It started about 6 months ago when the check engine light came on 25 miles or so after a fill up. The code shown was P2097 (Post catalyst system too rich.) I reset the light by disconnecting the battery. I tried adding some gas dryer and premium fuel and that seemed to work, but the light would intermittently come on. I also replaced the spark plugs (put dielectric grease on the boots) and had the exhaust system checked for leaks. I also put in fuel injector cleaner several times and cleaned the MAF sensor. In April, the light was coming on quite often, so I replaced the post catalyst oxygen sensor and reset the light.
The light stayed off for 600 miles or so and then came back on. This time the code is P0420 (catalytic converter efficiency). An exhaust system shop said that there does not appear to be anything wrong with the exhaust system including the catalytic converter itself. The car does have a slight miss at idle, but performs fine other than that. Also, if the car is not driven for a few days, there is some valve train noised when the engine is first started which lasts about 5 seconds.
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So today during my drive I looked down and noticed my check engine light come on! The car has 7k miles on it!! All I've done to it was the ARK cat back and k and n drop in filter. I'm guessing O2 sensor but it's crazy to think a car with 7k miles had a bad sensor. Noticed the car was running a little rough lately but noting too crazy.
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With a 100 k on the odometer, the wife reports that the car started shaking, trans was slipping and check engine light came on after driving about two miles. She drives it at low speed back to the house. Investigation under the hood shows trans fluid in the radiator and coming out of the overflow tank. Engine starts right up and we have not had any other driveline problems since owning the car in 2005.
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I've got a 2000 Infiniti Qx4 that I can NOT get to pass inspection. I replaced the engine at 130,000 miles, and since then I've had nothing but problems. I live in TN and I've got to pass emissions testing. The car drives/runs great, no problems. I'm down to code P1105 or something, MAP/solenoid valve... Or maybe it was P10107 or something. Anyways it means the MAF sensor is malfunctioning or I've got bad hoses or electrical connections near the intake. So I replace the MAF. Nope, check engine light still on. I replace the clips on the hoses for the MAF. Nope, still on. I check all the wires n all the hoses. Nope, light still on. Now my mechanic is going on about I might have a bad computer or it might not have accepted the new engine as it was from a different year (still a 3.3L V6 standard of the prior to 2001 model)? My mechanic has been at it for over 2 weeks trying all kinds of stuff but to no avail.
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My check engine light is on and I read the code with my obd and the problem catalytic converter is bank 1. Which is bank 1?
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My 2001 tundra v8 4.7 liters. Will not go past 90 miles per hour.I'm not a speed person but I like to know my truck is in top shape.Odo reads 99073 on the i way I tried pushing it to a 100 mph but it not go, what's happening to my truck...
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I got my v-8 12-22-03, very pleased. however at exactly 53 miles per hour and higher a high pitched whistling comes from the right side of the sunroof, whether open or closed. The dealer is perplexed and stumped. Sticking my head out at 55 miles an hour is fun (very dog like and my son was driving) but no way you can hear anything and pinpoint the noise. It does not appear to be the roof rack which is properly installed and both in the rear. In the words of the teacher in ferris bueller..
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I have a question regarding my shaking car (Toyota Avensis Diesel 2.0 1999) while accelerating.
The shaking occurs when I accelerate, especially within the range of 45-75 miles per hour (70-120km/h). It's at it's worst around 60 mph. Whenever I release the gas pedal it stops. It also stops whenever I go faster than 75 mph. When I drive at a constant speed between 45-75 mph, the car stills shakes, but a bit less than when I accelerate. It doesn't seem like there is any specific location from where the shaking originates. It's all over, but there's no shaking of the steering wheel itself. The tyres are ok. After some suggestions I recently put some injection cleaner into a full tank, but with no results.
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I have a 2006 Camry with a steering vibration at 60-65 miles per hour. I have looked at all of the Threads for similar problems but everyone is guessing at the cause....stating "Check the alignment, check tire pressures, check the wheel balance, check the wheel bearings."
I have checked all of these things to the best of my ability and there does not seem to be a problem there. I bought new tires and had the front end aligned. Vibration still there. Had tires balanced 3 different times. VIBRATION STILL THERE. Removed wheels and inspected all suspension parts. No obvious problem seen. Switched tires front to back then left to right then front to back again. VIBRATION STILL THERE.
Forgot to mention that the right front is wearing on the inside but the alignment checks out. I had the alignment re-checked at the tire dealer and then checked it myself later in the month using toe plates that we have in the shop for our SCCA ITB Club Racer. Is there a Recall that I am not aware of ?????
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My 2007 Honda CR-V has started to vibrate when I am driving around 45-50 miles an hour. Seems to be in the wheels. Doesn't happen all the time. At first I thought the road was rough, but now happens more often only for brief period then drives normally. The majority of the time, it's when I take my foot off the gas to maintain or slow speed. Car dealer took it for a test drive. They told me my tire pressure was too high and took air out, but the problem persists. They checked the wheel bearings, the joints, etc.
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My 1990 Volvo is making a terrible noise at about 20-30 miles per hour. It only lasts a few minutes but it sounds like a plane taking off underneath the passenger seat (wagon). Had the muffler replaced, but it didn't fix the noise. I also have a high pitched noise at freeway speeds.
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I have a 2006 b6 it has a thump/vibration at 22 to 24 miles an hour. This may sound crazy but when you live in the city its awful! VW has replaced the transmission, both front axles and wheel bearings all around the car they have put the headphones on the car and cannot find the thump. The breaks have also been replaced rotors and pads.
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