TrailBlazer :: Cruise Control No Longer Work - Hesitate To Start
Jun 10, 2013
I have a 2004 Chevrolet Trailblazer. Recently, I had to replace the fuel pump. Prior to that it had a gasoline smell and sometimes hesitated to start, like air was getting into the fuel lines. After I replaced the fuel pump, it was fine for about a week. Now, it hesitates to start like before I replaced the fuel pump. By this, I am saying that it cranks over (so no starter or battery issues), but takes excessively long to fire up. Once it is running, it runs nice (not rough) and without hesitation on acceleration. I suspect a vacuum leak.
Today, the cruise control no longer works, as in it will not engage when I depress the on/off button on the turn signal lever arm. I suspected a fuse may have blown, but cannot locate a fuse labeled 'cruise control' anywhere on the vehicle.
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I'm at my wit's end trying to install cruise control in my 2009 Corolla. I thought it was a relatively easy install, but then after putting the airbag in place, I find that the horn no longer works. I test out the cruise control, and the green "Cruise" lights up on the dashboard..but it doesn't actually work.
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When I turn my Cruise Control "On" it will light up green on my dashboard, However when I press the "set" button to set the speed nothing happens. It was working fine a few weeks ago. Could it be a fuse? If so what fuse? How I can fix this? 2011 Sonata
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2012 Prius with 10K miles.
One of the features I really like over the '06 Prius is the ability of the cruise control to hold the set speed on downhills (until the battery fills up and it switches to compression braking "B" mode, but that's a different topic).
After taking it in for the 10K mile service, it no longer engages regenerative braking on downhills with cruise control set. This is on the same hills where previously it would hold speed.
Did Toyota do a software upgrade that disables this feature?
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My 2014 Tiguan SEL has been giving me issues with the start button - hesitates at start, tries to start but doesn't and won't start at all. Took to dealership in March/April and they had it for 2 days. "Couldn't duplicate" so nothing was done.
I've read about this same issue in other VW forums and how cleaning the contact points on the start button has eliminated this problem. Unfortunately, the start button on the other VWs is on the steering column. How to remove the start button? Do I need to remove the entire center console? I've already tried by taking off the boot/trim and can't get to the button.
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I used to have LED brake lights in my taillights and decide to change them to old regular bulbs. After that Saturday 3am cruise control don't want to work. Then in the morning with all the lights off (headlights turns etc) the cruise works, as soon as I turn the lights on it stop working. I try to see the what's the cruise control fuse in the fuse card but I can't figure out which one is. 99 passat GLS manual trans.
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When I bought my R32 at the end of last year the cruise control didn't work. The light doesn't come on.
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I just purchased a low mileage R and trying to figure out if the car has been chipped. Not sure if when doing so you lose functionality of your cruise control but my cruise does not work and I am trying to determine how I go about checking the ECU on this ride.
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Just got my first X(and Ford) a couple days ago. Anyways, the cruise control doesn't work. I checked the CC switch on the master and it tested fine and I installed new switches on the steering wheel.
When I do the self diagnostic test with the steering wheel switches they all test fine, and on the last button(set) it lights up, but no other flashes. What does that mean? In 1 thread it stats that 0 flashes is the speed control servo.
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I have a 2001 ford focus SE and l can't get the cruise control to work anymore, is the problem a fuse and if so where is it located or a problem with brake pedal?
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Every day I have to drive on highways and obviously I use the Cruise Control BUT sometimes it doesn't work. To make it work again, I have to stop , turn off the engine and then turn it on. After doing that, the cruise control works again... It is an intermittent problem. I have my car for 4 months and I have got this problem about 10 times. Am I the only one to have an intermittent problem with my cruise control ?
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I've had my Sonata for six days, and I love it... Except... The cruise control doesn't work. At all. Never did. I tried pulling up on the brake pedal like another poster had suggested, but that didn't do a thing. Looks like a trip to the dealership is in order...
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My cruise control does not work and the mechanic has diganosed the cruise control servo as the problem. The shop gave me an estimate of $700 (parts & labor) to replace it. Given the age of the car and the cost of repair, I am leaning towards doing it myself. I am handy with tools but have not done this type of repair before.
My question: Is there a downside to doing this repair myself. If I elect to do it myself, what do I need to watch for?
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The other day I tried to do the nav hack and dvd playback in motion. I read through the instructions multiple times and followed them correctly making sure to cut the right wires. At the end, the only thing that worked was the dvd playback. I even tried two different switches but no luck. Over the weekend I noticed that cruise control wasn't working. When I press the cruise control button you can see the icon in the dash but you can't "set" the speed.
So today I plugged everything back to how it was, but still the cruise control does not work. I think it has something to do with the VSS. I did search, but I only found one other guy that had the same problem but it was never posted if he solved it.
I checked all the fuses under the hood and under the dash but they are all okay. How to reset the VSS or where the fuse for it may be? I'm going to try unplugging the battery and seeing if that does anything.
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The switch for CC works fine and will turn green and say 'on' when switched on, but it will not actually work (will decrease speed as soon as you let off gas, just as if it were not on). We replaced the whole gauge panel with one that had CC in working condition (exact same model) and this did not solve the problem.
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As a precautionary measure, I recently had the timing belt replaced on my 2003 Honda Civic. The mechanic noticed that the clutch master cylinder was leaking and I also had that replaced. After the repair, I noticed that my cruise control does not work (turns-on on the dashboard but does not work). I am taking the car back to have it fixed.
My question is where/what areas should I ask the mechanic to check to fix? I am thinking it could be as simple as a disconnected connection but I am not entirely sure.
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I own a 2013 C-Max hybrid and I notice that during long drives if i engage the cruise control, I don't get as many EV miles as I do when I have my foot on the gas pedal and take it off when i have reached my desired speed. Does EV mode not work in cruise control? My feet start to ache a bit with constantly having to press and release the gas pedal just so that I can generate some EV miles.
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I had a reputable repair shop briefly check out the cruise control on my Aerostar cargo van. They said it is not because of a vacuum leak. What is most likely the problem?
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On my in laws 2000 explorer the cruise control does not work. When driving and activating the cruise control (on, then set), the cruise-control dash light comes on for a fraction of a second and goes off again. Tried it at freeway speeds.
Any clue ? I heard there is a separate brake switch for the cruise control and one for the brake lights. The brake lights operate normal. Could it be the other switch ? If so where is this switch ? Under the dash or under the hood ?
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For a while now when i would turn my fan on, from off, the lights showing the air inflow, etc. fade out and i get no air intake what so ever. The light is on when the dial is switched into the off position, but when i go from level 1 and up the power dies out. Intermittently it will turn on, but often for brief moments of time. Also when it IS on i get a permanent "cruise" light that stays on however my cruise control doesnt work when this is going on.
The light is just on. When it does decide to work and i turn my cruise control on it works up until my fan dies out again (they are on and off at the same times) and thus, the cruise control dies again. I took apart my heater circuit board in hopes that it would solve the problem, and for about a week it did. However it ceased to work yet again. I went and pulled one from a scrapped car to see if replacing the unit would solve the problem, but this one is not having any better luck.
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This is a 2006 prius with 180k on it, that we have had since 2007 and it has been wrecked. (hit a deer) It had problems when the coolant flow control was hooked up in reverse after it got back from the body shop, but the toyota dealership fixed it. 12v battery replaced a year ago and showing 12.7v with no drain and 11.9 with a drain, on the onboard monitor.
My wife got gas yesterday and after restarting the prius, the dash lit up like a Christmas tree. ESV, Check Engine, RED TRIANGLE of Impending Doom. It was also sluggish(hybrid drive didn't seem to work, only gas) and did not seem to charge the battery. Also the battery fan was very loud but working fine. These were the same symptoms exhibited when the flow valve was reversed. Also the battery was showing 1 bar of charge when she got home. The cruise control would also not work.
So now, I take it to the parts store and connect the computer and get these codes
c1289 MV System Regen Malfunction Current
1310 Malfunction system current
p0a80 Replace Hybrid Battery
P3022 Battery Block 12 weak
p1116 Coolant temperature sensor stack
p1121 coolant flow control valve
I know that the p0a80 is bad and the p3022 means there is a weak cell, but I am having trouble here:
On the way back from the store, the hybrid battery charged into the green, which it WOULD NOT do earlier, but the hybrid drive did not seem to be pulling the car. The car cranks and gas engine runs fine.
I was wondering quite a few things here.
Would the coolant codes be remnants of the last problem and not deleted from last time?
The codes had no date that I saw.
Its just that all these errors and symptoms together make no sense when I am trying to troubleshoot and figure out a course of action.
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