I have a 97 Pontiac Transport and I was traveling down the road and suddenly i lost oil pressure the light came on and it started clattering so I checked the oil level and it was fine so i had it towed home. I changed the oil using a higher grade oil and lucas oil treatment and started it ...I still have the problem what do i do...
View 7 RepliesOne of the '92 Pontiac Trans Sports (3.1L V6 engine) had developed a huge thirst - the fuel consumption had doubled along with a serious loss of power. All ignition components - distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires and oxygen sensor are new ACDelco's.
ECM is not throwing-up any fault codes but we suspect a vacuum leak since this engine runs better with the air intake covered-up almost completely.
Is there any way to trace and fix this kind of issue? Any vacuum diagram for this car - I couldn't seem to find it in the GM Service Manual... How would you suggest we proceed?
My 1995 TS with 3.8 just quit driving down the road, would not restart. had to be towed home.
Fuel pressure just meets specs at 41 PSI engine off ( Gm says 41 to 47), but has been that way for some time. Put Actron scan tool on, got a code 361, EST not toggling. GM has no code 361, but based on past experience, this has usually pointed to a defective ignition module, and I thought that was that. While testing, scan tool kept losing communications and having to be reset.
Finally I unplugged power source of tool, and engine immediately quit and would not restart. Resetting scan tool would allow engine to restart, albeit very rough. Doing a wiggle test of engine wiring harness makes no change.
Crank sensor was replaced, about 12 years ago, so it not the trouble prone OEM; cam sensor about 10 years ago by a garage who was unsuccessful in solving a driveability issue.
Issue here is why would scan tool affect engine operation?
We have a 1992 Pontiac Trans Sport with the Chevy 3.1 V6 TBI engine.
Engine was running poor because of a faulty Coolant Temperature sensor (rusted-out pins). Changed the sensor and cleaned-out rust from the socket and now it runs smooth when cold with decent acceleration.
Problem is that cylinder #6 is not firing when engine is hot at operating temperature. Engine shakes lightly but performance remains good.
Distributor, rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires and Oxygen Sensor were all changed 1 week ago with new ACDelco parts. What to check next?
2800rot./min when driving. engine showed signs that he drowns, I joined, he went shortly after that began to fall speed and the engine stopped. Then I could not start. Come to be fuel, received a little dirt somewhere and no longer feeds? What can I do?
View 3 RepliesWhen is cold, the engine starts but stops after 2-3 minutes. I can not start until after standing for 2-3 hours, and again stops.When I try to start, signs that would not fill with gasoline.What should I check first, what should be changed?
It was....now engine don't start!
Pontiac Trans Sport 1996,2.3l,16v,Quad4 DOHC
We have a '92 Pontiac Trans Sport with a 3.1L V6 TBI engine. Last Sunday evening it refused to start like someone left the transmission in Drive and the Park/Neutral switch was preventing it to start. There's the buzz sound from the fuel pump when you put the key on then nothing when you turn it to start the engine.
I checked the Park/Neutral swith by connecting an ALDL cable to the OBD port and it indicates correctly when I move the lever to Drive or Parking/Neutral. The only error code stored is "Fuel Pump Relay" but the Fuel Pump appear to be working?!
Battery is good, fuel pump fuse intact and the Park/Neutral switch appear to be working. How we can tackle this problem?
1993 TransSport 3.8: Where the heck is the oil pressure sending unit, and what is the best way to access it? What size of OPSU socket does it take; 1", 1 & 1/16", or 1 & 3/16". Do I need the 3/8" or 1/2" drive; extra deep or other wise? The van has a gauge on the dash.
View 6 RepliesI just noticed the oil pressure gauge on this Pontiac TS GT stays in the red zone at idle and climbs a little out of it at 2000 rpm and higher (never over the first unit). There's no other warning light or error in the dashboard - just the scary oil pressure gauge.
We brought this car home for repairs after a 600 km trip (370 miles) without any issues in mountain roads or hot weather. Engine temperature was well below the first quarter mark, acceleration was great and there was no strange sounds whatsoever...
When first started cold engine has no lifter or tapping noise. What would be the most obvious sign of oil starvation/low pressure on this engine?
Is there any way to confirm it beside the dash gauge? With this 3.8 engine what would be the most probable cause for this:
1. defective oil pressure sensor
2. failed oil pump
3. worn crankshaft bearings
4. worn camshaft bearings or other cause
If I press the gas a little hard in drive, my tires squeal but if I'm in reverse I can feel a slipping in the trans. If I try to back a trailer up an inclined driveway, it won't go, the trans slips. I have no crud in the pan. I've replaced the reverse boost valve. I installed a Trans-Go kit which is suppose to eliminate the reverse slip but it hasn't worked. Everything else works just fine and my fluid is red. I have engine braking in 2nd and 1st. The van backs up fine, it just does this in reverse under load.
View 2 RepliesI have a ford f150 that is making a loud banging noise from the rear end. It only makes this noise when you are traveling down the road and let your foot off of the accelerator. A mechanic told me it is the catalytic converter but I am questioning this for he also told me it needed a tune up. A tune up was just recently done therefore I am just trying to find better answers to this problem.
View 1 RepliesI bought my 2001 Prius used about a year and a half ago and had no problems until the past couple of months. On three occasions now, the triangle warning light has come up on the screen while I was driving and the car wouldn't accelerate when I pushed the gas pedal.
Fortunately, the I was able to coast to the side of the road on each occasion, and when I turned the car off and restarted it, it worked fine. The first two times, it happened on the freeway after a lengthy drive and while traveling at about 70 mph. Today it happened on a surface street, but after I had been on the freeway (in gridlock) for nearly an hour.
I should have dealt with this sooner, but somehow every time it has happened, it was on the weekend and/or when I was out of town, so I couldn't immediately take it to a shop, and since the car started back up immediately and ran fine after each occurrence, it didn't seem urgent.
The other night around 11pm my car lost power on the highway. I was traveling 80 MPH. The RPMs would not stay up no matter how much I pumped the gas pedal. The car did not die though. I would hold an idle, but felt like it was missing a little.I had the car towed to my hotel. Two days later I tried to drive the car to a mechanic. The car started up fine. It drove for about300 ft and stopped moving again. The car did not die and would hold the idle.Towed to the mechanic. It sat over a Monday holiday in his lot. On Wednesday I called to see how it was coming on the car. They put it on the computer and the only thing that came up was an engine misfire. They have been driving the car for 2 days with no incident.They have not done anything to the car as they don't want to throw money or parts at it not knowing what the car is doing. Feels like a fuel restriction but it idles. Stalling Lexus IS300...
View 7 RepliesMy Haynes manual indicates that the ELC exhausts air when the key is off. Is it intended to exhaust all air from the shocks every time I stop? It doesn't make sense to lower the vehicle every time I stop for fuel etc. With over 200k miles on this can it's amazing that the compressor still works.
View 9 RepliesI am working on my daughter's TS, it has been overheating. Water pump is fine and the thermostat is working fine also. I did notice that the temp gauge on the dash isn't. I have noticed that the fan isn't coming on either. I don't have a book on this car or a owners manual. So I am unsure of which fuses to check. I did try turning on the AC to MAX to see if that would start a fan, and that didn't work either.
View 13 RepliesRecently I had a radiator hose split while traveling. The EOT got up to 250 degrees before I could pull over and stop the truck. I flushed the cooling system with water, replaced the thermostat, and added Ford Gold coolant as per the recommendations in the Tech folder. My oil temps are higher now than prior to this incident. Unloaded on a flat road my deltas are about 10 to 12 degrees @ 60 mph.
My water temp will stay around 190 to 195 degrees while my EOT have reached 212-215. I pulled a small utility trailer and saw a delta of 17 degrees this was at about 75 mph. Typically unloaded I would only see a delta of about 8 degrees and this was at 80mph. My question is do you think a EOT of 250 would burn the oil, I had Shell Rotella T5 5W40 in the engine. Would it be possible that the oil cooler is partially plugged from this temp?
I replaced my '94 TS intake plenum and upper and lower intake gaskets last year, and as part of the procedure I replaced the badly-degraded rubber gaskets that go at both ends of the manifold (at both ends of the "V", one under the throttle body, one under the PCV valve or so).
A little more than one month ago I realized the oil puddle underneath the car contained -besides power steering fluid from a known leak- motor oil. When I investigated the origin of the leak, I discovered the <> rubber gaskets have disintegrated AGAIN.
I don't see how this gaskets could be installed incorrectly, so I have to conclude the gaskets that came with the kit I used (Felpro?) did not withstand the oil as they should. Either way, I need to replace those <> pieces of rubber again
Now: since I don't want to be doing the same thing every 5 k miles, any good brand for these gaskets? Is there a material (neoprene?) that would last longer in contact with the oil?
My 95 TS 3.8L is misfiring on #4cyl ONLY when reverse is applied. When car is in reverse with parking brake applied, consistently misfires on #4. In drive with brake applied and engine load no miss. Neutral no miss.
Car drive ability is great in drive no misfires. 100% misfires on #4 only when in reverse. Is there any vacuum change or assist utilized with this trans? Possibly vacuum leak? I do not have a vacuum gauge. I changed to a different plug wire and same problem. New plugs installed. Have not swapped coils yet.
I am not familiar with this trans, other than the vacuum servo for upshifting I replaced when it was sucking up trans fluid like my old Powerglide in the OLD days.
These super-hot days our TS had started to develop a very strange problem:
- when you first start the engine the A/C works normally and cold air blows from the front vents on A/C or MAX as usual
- if we shut-down the engine and try to engage A/C or MAX again the cold air would only come-out through the top (windshield) and low vents - no more front ventilation
- all solenoids appear to be working (moving)
Just recently the CEL started acting...first, would come ON then after some time would shut off....but now it is ON and stable. I was almost sure it had to do with EGR....checked codes and indeed, 55 , large EGR port failure and, accordingly, 56, QUAD driver faulty voltage...obviously because of large EGR port solenoid control. I have not verified the EGR coils yet....will come back later as I'm going out for 2 days.... This is a rather new EGR valve...6 or 7 year old.....and in fact, no more than 25000 miles...probably less...
View 8 RepliesOur 95 TS 3.8 runs hot. I dislike the 195 Thermostat, but winter is coming. Temps can soar to 230 on gauge, with no air.(Now I remember why I had a 180degree thermostat).
I recently replaced a rebuilt delco starter that was about a year old.(faulty solenoid). I cannot recall if the Slow crank problem was there prior. When 230 degrees, intermittently I get a slow crank with dimming of dashboard lights, but bright headlights.
1. I know that the temps are supposed to swing a lot with this vehicle, but 75 degree days, 230 degrees when in heavy traffic is pushing it.(gauge). Is this normal for 195 thermostat?
2. Possible bad windings on new rebuilt starter? Armature drawing excessive amps when hot? Battery cables look okay, but original.
3. Considering a NEW starter and a heat reflector wrap for starter. New battery cables-thicker cable if possible(used welding cable for my old 421S.D.