Volvo :: 1992 240 - Sputtering / Stalling And Not Starting Well
Dec 3, 2014
1992 240. A couple days ago, the car started fine, but immediately started running erratically, feeling like it was about to stall out at lower speeds and then, whenever I gave it a lot of gas, it would stall out or nearly stall out.
Then, after about 5 minutes of driving and then stopping the car, it took about 15-20 seconds of turning over to start. After 10-15 minutes of driving, all seemed fine and it started totally fine after that a little later that day. Next day, same issue takes a lot to start, stalls when I press down on the gas a lot/suddenly from low gear.
Not sure if it has anything to do with it, but we live in Los Angeles and it's just now started to get "cold", with our first chilly day same day this started happening, on Monday.
Not sure if it's the air intake or a fuel injection issue....
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My 1992 240 wagon (injection) is intermittently stalling, and missing. The lambda light is on the dash. Last year it was doing something similar, but not as bad, and I took it to Volvo and they cleaned the throttle body and said it should be ok, and it was for a while, but now it's worse. Ignition parts are mostly new, I doubt it's that. When it stalls it nearly always starts straight away. When it's missing badly but not stalling, pressing the acc peddle does nothing, until it eventually catches on and revs properly.
I also find that when I have a full tank it's not so bad. When the tank was nearly empty it was particularly bad - it's winter and I was suspecting there was condensation in the tank.
Is there a 'backyard' way of getting the error codes? This could be a good start.
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i have just bought a 1988 740gl turbo and i was driving it the other day and when i came to a set of lights just as i stopped the car stalled on me then wouldn't start...
i left it for a hour or so came back and it started and i drove away and only went a few kms home.... what would this be i haven't driven it since!!
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Im looking to upgrade my radio and speaker system in my car but I do not want to lose my steering wheel controls.
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I have a 92 gmc with a standard transmission that is backfiring and sputtering after it has been running for a while. I have noticed that on longer trips, 30+ miles, the truck backfires when i go to accelerate on the highway. Also, after it has been running a while, I will stop at a light, When I go to accelerate, It backfires and tries to stall but wont. I have to turn the key off and wait for the truck to shut off.
Once it shuts off, I will restart it and then it runs normal till the next light.. I have replaced the plugs recently, thinking that it was a misfire problem. All the plugs looked normal. None were dirtier than the rest. It only does this after it has been running for a long distance. If it is cold, it does not have a problem. I have also tried seafoam in the tank and direct into the carb. I am at a loss? the temp gauge never gets hot?
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2003 Cavalier auto 116K miles - Car is sputtering and stalling at stoplights with a/c on. What can I check?
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I have this issue from time to time where I will be driving and my car will randomly stall itself out and shut off. what could be the issue?
2nd I have an issue while idling, where if I am idling I feel a slight vibration like it is about to stall.
3rdly How big of an offset can i have on rear wheels that are 18x8?
The aforementioned questions are regarding a 2004 GLI.
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09 tiguan that was bought in august of this year as a certified pre owned and has a warranty on it until 60k miles or 2014. Recently there has been some issues with the car stalling out and sometimes having a very low rough idle and then the idle will pick up and the car will surge slightly then it will be fine for a while. I have my suspicions that it is because this is my fiance's car and she has been putting mid grade gas in the car lately. Also we cannot get the fuel door to open now is there any tricks on getting it open?
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I have a 4 cylinder '98 Toyota Camry with 82k miles on it. I got the car second hand from a family friend 7 months ago. About 3 months ago, my engine would sputter and then shut off when I'd start slowing down below 30mph and stopping at lights after I'd been on the interstate. Issue occurs only when I've accelerated quickly during that drive (ie accelerating hard to go up a hill to merge or to pass a slow car).
When I need to stop, if I'm fast enough to get the gear in neutral, hold down the break and rev the engine at the same time, then it most likely won't shut off. It's like trying to do CPR on my car... The spark pugs have been replaced, oil changed, and fluid levels checked but the problem still happens. What could be the problem??
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When I'm driving it starts to cutout (but it never dies) and it won't stop cutting out until I floor it and then it's fine for a little bit and it starts doing it again.
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2000 4runner SR5. This problem has been going on for a while, it comes and goes. The truck will start stalling out, sputtering along, then pick right back up. It is like the engine is being choked for gas. It never totally fails, I just lose all engine power for a second or two, then it picks back up. Then, the check engine light will turn on.
I thought the light might be for a gas cap, so I checked that first. Unscrewed the gap and hear a very noticeable "whoosh" air noise, like air getting sucked into the gas tank. After I adjusted the gas cap, the truck starts working as normal, runs great. For a couple weeks or so. Then the same problem. And the same fix has always worked as well - the gas cap trick, thus far, has worked every time (about five times).
I took it to a mechanic and they said the codes are for the throttle and I need a new throttle body for $1500 freakin dollars. I don't doubt the throttle could probably use replacing, but I don't think that's is what is causing this issue. If the throttle was the problem, it doesn't seem like it would be a problem that comes and goes. And why does the gas cap fix work?
Things I have replaced in the few years - fuel filter about a year ago, air filter recently, evap, O2, cat, timing belt, water pump, gas cap (about a month ago). Needless to say, I got a lot of $ into it. Think it could be fuel pump?
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I have a problem in the form of a 2000 Buick LeSabre Custom with the GM 3800 series II engine. After 245k miles, it has begun to show it's age in some very unaffectionate ways. It has been stalling, sputtering, hesitating, and unwilling to start at seemingly random intervals. And, such is my luck, there has been no 'check engine' light on at any point during this saga. Here's the chronology of events spanning 6 months:
The first symptom I experienced was occasional sputtering, mainly while going uphill. This began to occur shortly after the spark plugs were replaced during regular maintenance. So I replaced the spark plugs again, and also the wires, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator. Plus I gave the MAF a good cleaning.
But the problem persisted, and grew to include intermittent stalling when I would come to a stop. Undaunted, I replaced the ignition coils, and swapped in a used ICM.
The car, obviously displeased with my choice words toward it, began to not start every now and then. It would just crank to no avail. So I would try again after an hour or two and it would immediately start as if nothing was wrong. Fearing that I or my wife could be left stranded I replaced the fuel pump. It continues to stall every once in a while and it still sometimes sputters at low rpms. A lot of times it just wont idle at a constant speed.
So then I replaced the crank sensor and I cleaned the camshaft sensor too. Guess what? It's still intermittently sputtering/hesitating when I accelerate from a stop. And I have noticed that it will also sputter while idling in park as well. It's like it's misfiring, but with no engine codes. I'm not happy.
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I have a 2004 Venture with 86K. I got into it yesterday to go to the store and it started fine when I went to leave it was hard to start and would not idle. At that point I noticed a smelly exhaust and the smell of gas. After I got it to start I took it for a quick run down the street It performed fine under hard throttle however when I got back in the driveway It started sputtering again and eventually died. I did a diagnostic test and came up with P0300.
I am not sure where to start with this code. I looked at the plugs and they were black and measured .060 (irid.. plugs). So now I am thinking perhaps the cat is now clogged up or the EGR or the fuel reg or the coil pack etc....
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As I mentioned in the title, I have a 1999 GMC Suburban with about 150000 miles. I love the car, but lately, it has been acting peculiar immediately after starting it. Whether hot or cold weather, the car will sputter, pop, backfire, buck and generally not get up and go for the first 3-5 minutes the engine is running. I can put the gas to the floor and the car continues to sputter along at about 20 mph - bugging the heck out of drivers behind me. If I do lay on the accelerator, however, the car will rev high RPMs as if it wants to go through the gears behave like it's in neutral.
After about 3 minutes of sputtering, the car will again start accelerating as if nothing is wrong. This happens every time I start it.
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Have a 1999 f150 replaced tranny. truck started out ok for first 10 miles now it putters when starting from stand still can not figure it out.
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I have a 1992 jeep Cherokee sport that is giving me quite a headache & it seems to be getting worse. My jeep has 272,000 miles on it. Bought it used almost 5 yrs ago. Anyways, starting back in april when it started to get warm here in Pennsylvania, it started to do this thing where you'd be driving it at 45mph, the tac meter (thing that reads RPM) starting to bounce up n' down from 800rpm to roughly 1500rpm. It would bounce like that for every 2 secs while driving. Now, when i went to slow down to roughly 35mph & slower then that, it would begin to spit, sputter, jerk, & carry on & it shut off on me once!
It seemed like it got a mind of it's own too. When I come to a stop, it seems like it wants to give it more gas!!! There are acouple of times that I almost didn't get stopped & almost rear ended a couple of cars!! When you go to park it & let it run, it sounds like someone is pushing down on the gas & letting off of it every 3 secs. Again, it would go from 0rpm to 1200rpm then keep doing that til you shut it off. If you shut it off & leave it set for about an hr then, it'll run just fine for about an hr or so & then, begin to mess up!!
So far, I've changed, the plugs, plug wires, dist cap/rotor, 02 sensor, swapped a MAP sensor off of my moms jeep, (no change there) The last thing I just bought was a Ignition coil. Mine had cracks in it so, I thought it might of been that. NOPE!!! Still messes up. It seems like the hotter it gets outside, the quicker it wants to mess up. I've even got a can of carb cleaner & sprayed every vac line/hose that I can find. No change!!
One more thing. On cold/cool mornings, it'll start up & run just fine even with the bad coil that was on there.. No problems.
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I drive a 1992 Chrysler Imperial. It generally runs really good and I've only had a few minor problems with it. I try to keep up with maintenance for the most part and it only has100000 miles on it. I've had a problem with stalling lately - but mostly when I turn left. It only has such problems when I'm below a half tank of gas.
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I own a 1992 Volvo 240 and most of my speakers are blown. I want to get new speakers (all 4 of them) but I don't want some old salvaged Volvo 240 speakers. I want to buy some nice new speakers. I'm new when it comes to anything involving changing something in a car, so what speakers will fit and easily take place of those speakers where I won't have to do any unnecessary cutting or modify in order to get them to fit (I don't want holes also).
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Car has begun to idle very fast ( comes and goes ) ( 1992 240 ) ....
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I just picked up this old 240 wagon with 230k miles on it for next to nothing due to a transmission issue. It stays stuck in 1st gear for about the first 15 minutes of drive time and then starts shifting perfectly after that. I took it to a transmission specialist and he thought the valve body may be sticking. I also had an experienced volvo tech adjust the kick down cable but so far its still having the same issue.
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I have a 1992 Cadillac Brougham Hearse (Eagle Coach Co.) with a 305 V-8 that I’ve been having the following problem with. It had gotten to where it would start up, run at idle for 10 to 15 minutes and start cutting out, sputter and then die and would not restart afterwards. The next day, go out, starts right up and same thing after idling 10-15 minutes, cuts out and dies. So, I immediately think, fuel filter and or fuel pump! So, I replace the in tank fuel pump, sending unit and the in line fuel filter. Results remained the same. I’ve even swapped out the coil, ignition control module (ICM), starter and fuel pump relays from a like car and am still having the same results. Fuel gauge is reading between ¾ and ½ tank of fuel. Wondering what to look at next?
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