Volvo - 740 :: Gauge Stop Working / Needle Is Frozen In The Middle?


Jun 29, 2013

It stop working for a while but i want it to work now. The needle is frozen in the middle and wont move for shizz. Is it something electrical or should i buy a new gauge? I found some gauges for the 740 so I thought to ask first before buying it.

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Fuel pump in my Volvo 940 has been replaced twice. Since then, my fuel gauge has not worked right and I have had to pump gas about every 120 miles so that the fuel pump would work right. I would fill the tank, and 120 miles (about 5 gallons) later the fuel gauge would indicate about 1/4 tank of gas left. That's when the fuel pump begins to mis-behave. If I make a sharp turn, it would stopped pumping for about 2-3 seconds. If I continue to drive at that level of gas. I can avoid all these problems by keeping the tank at least "half-full", that is, by pumping every 120 miles. The car was totaled by a hail storm and I bought it back for $84. I like to operate the vehicle for as long as I can, one day at a time.

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I have a 2005 Elantra GLS with a couple thousand miles over 100K. There is what appears to be an overheating issue with my car. When I'm driving it in city driving usually less than 45 MPH, the heater blows cold air. However, on the highway (greater than 50 MPH) it blows hot air and the temp needle stays in the normal range (just below the halfway point between hot and cold and more towards the cold). However, when I slow down and come to city speeds, the temp needle starts to rise and the heater blows cold air.

The needle went to the red zone this morning but as soon as it got to the red zone, it slowly came back down to the normal point (within 2-3 seconds). And @ the same time, the heater started blowing warm/hot air like it would be functioning normally. When the needle got the red zone, my car didn't stop or I didn't see smoke coming from the hood or anything like. It was almost like something (maybe thermostat) tripped and allowed the engine to cool.

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I read online to start it and turn the AC on see what the RPMs do and that this can diagnose an idle control valve that needs replacing. I went out and started the car again, blasted the AC and now the RPMs were staying steady at 1000 and the car no longer sounded like it was about to stall. The RPMs did shoot up passed 2000 once shortly after turning the AC on. I'm assuming this must mean that the idle control valve needs to be replaced.

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