I've got a 2005 Volvo V50. High Mileage (230000). Timing belt replaced at 200k. Runs really nice, until this evening. Inserted the key and turned over but instead of starting it made whirring robot noises and read "brake failure message" and "immobilizar" after turning key to off position. It's really cold out. 0 degrees. What's the next move?
View 2 Repliesi drive a 2007 XC90 V8 with 76000miles and recently i got a power system failure message and battery light went on , so took it to my mechanic and he tested the car and it was tuning out 11volts so he concluded it was the alternator, so he recommended changing the regulator and i got a new regulator made by Bosch and it was installed and upon starting the message came back on and the battery light as well and upon testing it was producing 15.4volts , now its overcharging , what do i need to do ? should i buy another regulator ? as my mechanic says alternators hardly ever get damaged but the regulator is the one that usually gets damaged...
Attached File(s) :
- regulator1.jpg ( 314.57K )
- regulator_2.jpg ( 290.61K )
I just started getting this weird warning message on my dash console that says "STOP, STOP, Brake Failure, Service Manual" and the Brake and ABS lights turn on and then after a couple minutes it that all goes away.
I have checked the brake fluid and the fluid sensor and those are fine and i unhooked my battery and had it restart, but it still is giving me this message intermittently. My brakes work fine and i just had my brake pads done recently, so i know that isnt the problem.
After fixing no brake lights on my 86' 740 I still can't get the inner ones to work. To fix the problem I changed the brake lamp failure relay. The bulbs are good. The relay was used.
View 1 RepliesI have the "check stop lamp" message showing up. Both right and left brake lights are fine but the third brake light is totally out. I've heard of other Volvos having issues with the wiring harness near the hinge.
View 8 RepliesThree weeks ago I replaced my battery and serpentine belt as general maintenance before heading out on a prolonged trip. The next day I started receiving 'check charging system' whenever I turned the a/c on and the truck is at idle. Power steering becomes very hard to turn and engine feels like it is going to quit.
This is not a problem at highway speeds. Looking at the engine when the a/c is engaged, a slow down of the belt/pulley is obvious. The alternator has been removed and checked, battery checked good, and the belt is the right size/length. What could be causing this? Again it started behaving like this after a belt and battery change. There is no issue if the a/c is off...
I have a 2005, Volvo S80, it has 107,500 miles on it. In the last two months the car has started (NOT everytime I drive but sometimes and then the next time I drive it it is fine), jerking and sometimes a thunk sound as it jerks. When it is doing it it does it s I finish stopping from going fast or slowly AND then when I accelerate it feels like a the car has a delay from the gas pedal. And starts with a jerk and the thunk sound.
When I brake what happens make me imagine that the wheelbase has stopped and the the body of the car is still going and clunks as it stops too. Like it is lurching over the wheel base. Sometimes it does it the whole time I am driving (starting and stopping) and other times the car drives fine. Talking to several mechanics they all seemed stumped and have never heard. But mechanic guesses that they want to fix have been electrical board shorting, timing belt, transmission needing to be flushed. What this actually is? And what needs to be done about it.
Started having trouble with my Excursion 6.0 Diesel stalling after being in tow/hauling a 22' boat. That issue has gone away buy now I start it and run for 20 minutes, turn it off and try to start it again and all it does is turn over. If I let is sit for about 8hrs it will start again. What is going on?
View 1 RepliesI have a 05 Ford escape with 107K. When I make a right turn and applying the brakes I feel a clunking in the brake pedal. checked all front brakes and all is ok. So I looked at the drive shaft on the drivers side. I can move or wobble the drive shaft around on the in board CV going in the transmission. Is that normal?
There are no "Clicking" sounds any where while turning which would tell me that is what it is. Also while driving slow not applying brakes there is a lot of clunking and knocking sounds while going over a few little bumps here and there. Is it the inboard CV joint?
So every once in a while, my A/C starts to sound like it's struggling. The force of the air gets stronger and weaker, and it starts to make a whirring noise (much louder than it should be). The temperature is fine, it's just the blowing air.
It will continue like this for weeks or months, then eventually when I start the car (particularly if I'm in my parking garage at work for some reason?!?! - could be a coincidence) the A/C won't blow at all. If I hold my hand near the vent, I can feel cold air - but it's just sitting there, not getting blown into the cabin.
I just replaced my Toyota Camry Solara 2005 Front Struts on Thursday to pass State Inspection. On Friday we had a mild snow storm(2 inches) and when taking a turn, the brake didn't work properly and the tires slipped and my car went over the curb and hit a pole. I was going at about 30 mph. My tires are a little old but since they passed the inspection on Thursday I'm guessing that they weren't that bad. My question is did replacing the struts have anything to do with this or was this just my distracted driving...
View 6 RepliesI recently had an issue with my transfer case that caused me to have to replace it with a rebuilt one. I did so and am now having a different issue. I have a switch on my dash that shows Auto, 4 High, and 4 Low. Whenever I shift that switch over to 4 High from Auto the light changes and I hear a click sound. When I shift the switch from 4 High to 4 Low I get nothing. So, I took off the transfer case motor and switched things over by hand. When I shift the transfer case (manually by hand) over to LOW setting on the transfer case; it seems to run ok as if it is in 4 low, BUT, when I shift the transfer case (manually by hand) over to HIGH setting I can shift into every gear but seemingly have no reverse. Reverse seems to make a whirring grinding sound.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Acura TL with ~200k miles and an automatic transmission. Recently, I noticed a whirring noise at low speeds <20mph, but only while coasting. The noise goes away if I hit the brakes or if I hit the gas, even if I manage to maintain the speed below 20mph. What this could be?
View 1 RepliesMy new 2013 prius c engine makes buzzing, whirring, clicking noises, especially when speeding up or slowing down. Why?
View 4 RepliesMy car developed an "intermittent" accelerator whistling noise coming thru one of the speakers (I think). The harder you accelerate - the louder the whistle. When idling, it sounds like an open air whirring noise. Of course every time I bring it to the shop - it stops and when I hear it it's never convenient to get to the shop!
View 4 RepliesTransmission comes out of gear and has a loud whirring sound when in reverse, but not every time. it has happened when driving at about 60 mph (twice) Sometimes it happens a couple times in a row sometimes it is ok for a couple weeks.
View 2 RepliesI don't have any kids and I just noticed my V8 had child safety windows (will not roll all the way down)... is there a way to make my rear windows roll all the way down? second, any finding on the squeaking noises and rattling noises in the T-reg?
View 7 RepliesWhen I turn my 2005 Subaru Outback sharply, especially when in reverse, it seems to brake without my touching the brake pedal. About the same time it started, the automatic transmission would give a slight jump when shifting into or out of neutral. Took it to one shop, they said I needed a new transmission to install. Took it to another shop, they fixed my differential. But they didn't fix the seeming braking. The nearest dealer is 150 miles away and I haven't been able to get there at the right time on a weekday.
View 4 Replies2005 S60 with 98k miles on it. The LOW BRAKE FLUID light (Red triangle/Urgent) comes on for about a second or two on really hard turns. Do I need new brakes maybe? Or awhile to go? Or maybe the sensor is sensitive??
View 6 RepliesI noticed recently when I walk away from my car I hear a whirring noise as if a fan or belt were slowly winding down. It does stop eventually but I'm wondering if something was torqued or moved out of place to cause this noise, that I don't remember hearing before.
View 11 RepliesThe wife was stopped at a light in her 2006 S60 and when the light changed and she accelerated the car stalled and died. It would not start and thus I had it flatbedded back to the house. Id been told at the dealer during a service trip ($$$) that the alternator might be going bad as it was making a whirring noise and was given an estimate to replace it, the serperntine, pulley, etc.. of $1300. At the time it wasnt a driveability problem and being a working stiff I didnt have the 1300 to spend so I decided against doing the work. Thus, when the car stalled I figured it would be the alternator causing the problem and draining the battery.
I recharged the battery overnight figuring I could get the car turned on then remove one of the battery terminals to verify faulty alternator. However, car would not turn over, Id only get what sounded like a click from the starter. Fine, I figured, the alt killed the battery so I went and purchased a new one and installed it. Car would still not start and Id still get the click from what I believe is the starter. Tried the old bang the starter with a hammer and still nothing. Checked the connectors to the starter and all seemed ok.
At this point, the dreaded "my wife seized the engine" thought popped in my head. I then tugged a bit on the serpentine and noticed the crank turn slightly so Im pretty sure she didnt seize the engine. (fingers still crossed on that one).