Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Can't Remove Tail Light
Jul 3, 2012
I'm trying to remove the tail light units from my 2002 Toyota Yaris.
I've removed the central nut from the inside but the light unit won't budge. There are two other protuberances coming through the metal body work which are a plastic spigot, lower left of the metal bolt, and rubber type insert further away to the upper right.
I'm also presuming that there is some stiction with the gasket.
Even with the nut removed the outside of the unit has zero movement while the inside has a slight amount of flex.
Am I missing something?
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How do you remove a right rear 2001 Toyota echo tail light assembly?
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how to remove the headlights from an '02 echo? I'm trying to paint the headlight bezel, and can't seem to get the headlights out.
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I have a 2002 Echo sedan. I'd like to remove the rear seats completely for more storage (I am a musician). I was able to get the bottom foam off, but the seat "backs" are more stubborn. I see there are two bolts on the floor frame in the middle of the seat backs, and one bolt on each side of the seats where they meet the doors/frame. I tried to remove the bolts on the metal floor, but they do not budge... One socket wrench sheared right off while trying to spin it loose, and when I used a socket bit on my drill with an impact wrench attachment, it still wont budge... Are they locktitied in?
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I'm trying to remove the throttle body on my 2002 Echo. However, the transmission dipstick tube is in the way of one of the throttle body bolts. How can I remove the transmission dipstick tube so that I can remove the throttle body?
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I currently have summer washer fluid in my 2003 Toyota Echo's windshield washer fluid tank. I need to replace this with winter washer fluid within the next few days before the temperature goes below freezing.
When I pop open the hood, I see that the bottle is located on the left hand side of the engine bay. The bottle has a black cap with a picture of a fountain (wiper spray).
I have no experience working on the mechanics of a car. However, I would like to know the easiest way of replacing my summer wiper fluid with winter wiper fluid. The tank is currently full with the summer washer fluid.
a) How do I go about emptying the bottle completely without removing it?
b) If I need to remove the bottle and then empty it completely, how do I do this and what tools do I need?
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The check engine light has been going on and off for a couple of months. I took it in to be looked at and the mechanic said they couldn't get a code, couldn't get a "good read" on what was wrong. They said I could take the car back (but they couldn't give me an inspection sticker) and drive it for a couple of days and if the light comes on, take it back to them. If the light doesn't come on after a few days, they will give me the sticker. I can't believe my car is going to act any differently than it has for the last few months -- light comes on sometimes, sometimes it doesn't. Shouldn't the mechanic be able to tell what's wrong.
have a 2005 Scion with about 60,000 miles.
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I get jerky acceleration at low RPM (around 1200). It feels as the engine cuts off fuel for a blink of an eye and it does that 1-3 times. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. It starts after cold engine warning light turns off.
Year 2000 .... Engine 1.3 vvti .... Automatic transmission .... 140k kms ....
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My Echo is giving me problems. The red thermostat light has been coming off and on for the past two months. I had the radiator, fan and thermostat replaced. It started blinking again after two days. I took it to a mechanic that tested to see if it had a head gasket blown. That wasn't the problem. The mechanic said it was the water pump. I had the water pump replaced today and drove approximately 12 miles home when the red light started blinking again.
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This year has been a bad one for my little echo. We recently had the overflow valve of the fuel tank fixed in order to get registered. Then the a/c fixed, and then the belts and transmission fluid changed, but then it was making very funky sound when I'd brake. Getting the tires rotated/balanced seems to have worked for that.
And now this. We were on a very long and hot road trip. When I stopped for gas the oil light flickered. I put in some oil and it stopped. Got back on the freeway and right away the oil light came on solid. Pulled over and got towed home because luckily we were close enough by that time.
Our mechanic thought it was the oil sensor. He replaced it and thought it was fine. Then he noticed a funky sound, so he put it back up and put a physical gauge in there and found that it is only 9-15 psi when at idle. He's not sure what is happening. The oil pressure light is not coming on. Seems okay on the freeway. When at idle it shakes/knocks a lot, especially if the a/c is on, but the oil light is still not coming on.
He has switched to 10w40 oil, but isn't sure of what's causing this.
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I have a 2000 toyota echo which just had the 3rd brake light burn out.*'m having trouble getting light fixture out to change bulb.
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I recently noticed that the airbag light of my 2001 Echo never comes on and is off all the time.
What can be the reason? Is the fuse blown?
If the fuse is blown, shouldn't there be an alarm or warning indication? I mean, because airbag is a the main safely feature in a car, shouldn't there be a warning mechanism to simply indicate that it does not work at all?
BTW, can a battery change have caused this? I changed the battery a while ago but never noticed this issue until now.
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I'm troubleshooting my sons 2000 Echo with a manual transmission. No reverse light. Very puzzling? The red wire with blue stripe in the trunk area is always hot. Makes no difference if the shifter is in reverse gear or not. Yet, the reverse lamps don't come on. I removed both bulbs and tested them at the battery using jumpers. They both come on. I have not gone under the car yet. My question is: does this car have a neutral start switch, and a back up light switch. If yes, which switch is feeding the other? Any pictures of where these switches are located? My guess is that the back up light switch is faulty, if there is one.
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I have an 07 Toyota Vitz and Side lamps, Tailgate lamps and number plate light are remaining off... Normal and bright works fine...
Checked fusses and are all good.
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Every time i put the key in the on position, the check engine light comes on, but not anymore and it wont start, wont make a clicking. Nothing What relay or fuse would this be.
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In January I had taken my car in for an oil change. About a Month later my check engine light comes on. I pull over and there is no oil cap. Why the light hadn't come on before then is beyond me. I also park on grass so didnt notice it. I took it to advanced auto to see what the code for the light was and it said that the engine was running lean. Is this connected? and if so how? I am driving a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback
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So I left my lights on because there was no warning buzzer to tell me so. This happened once before when the driver door would not turn on the dome light. I went for the door switch and it was bent. Bent it back and buzzer worked and dome light worked.This time nothing. Switch is ok. traced wire from switch and it is ok.
2000 Echo stickshift.
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I just got an used Echo, and it seems that the hatch light switch is a bit sensitive. However, I couldn't find it anywhere on the frame, or near the lock. I even have access to the docs and didn't see a reference of it.
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How to reset service light after a oil change ?
I have a 2009 yaris.
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I have a 2001 Echo 5-speed that I bought it November. Loving it so far. One thing I've noticed is an electronic-like whistling sound whenever I'm applying light throttle. The sound goes away if I left off the throttle, or if I give it more gas. When I say light throttle, it's when I'm applying enough pressure to maintain maybe 1500 RPM in neutral, so not much. It's only at that specific point that I'll hear the noise, and it's in all gears and not related to vehicle speed. I've searched through the usual channels but didn't find anything related.
In the few months before I bought it the previous owner had the MAF sensor, alternator, and water pump replaced by the dealer so those components are covered under the 1 year/20k parts warranty if they may be a culprit. I'm hoping to narrow down what the problem could be before I take it in for routine service anyways.
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I have a 2007 Yaris, 180,000 miles, The check engine light comes on. With a P0011 code. I know that that could mean either:
blocked oil passage
Mechanical timing fault
Camshaft position a timing over advance
Failed OCV
Or VVT controller assembly fault
Since it's been really cold out I figured maybe it was a blocked oil passage, but after an oil change and quick check - I no longer think that's the problem.
The car runs great and it doesn't seem anything is wrong at all ...
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