Acura - Integra :: 1994 - Making Buzzing Noise Between 3000 And 3500 RPMS
Nov 27, 2013
My 1994 Acura Integra makes a buzzing noise exactly between 3000 and 3500 RPMS. It sounds kind of like the sound a circular saw would make cutting wood. It only happens when I am accelerating through that range. Also, sometimes after driving for a while, it doesn't last as long and the noise stops around 3300 RPMS. I've checked the heat shield and it seems to be fine so I don't think its that. What this could be caused by?
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I I have Integra 94 RS, all of sudden it started to shake like crazy. it feels like the car has a stuffy nose (something clogged).
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Lately, my 1990 Integra has been idling VERY low. Some mornings, while idling at a stop, the rpms fluctuate up and down to the point where it almost dies. Is it just cold? I live in coastal San Diego, so it's not freezing here. This morning, had to keep my foot on the gas to keep the car from stalling before getting home from dropping son off at school. It died in the driveway. Started up just fine right afterwards, but idled down to nothing. Now it idles okay, but at a pretty low rpms, like usual. NOW, the battery, a SEARS Diehard Silver, is near the end of its usable life. Prorated 84,000 mile replacement warranty, but I have had it for 8.5 years and have 1 82,000 miles on it. YES! I have been meaning to replace it, as it is leaking some nasty stuff at the terminals, but wonder if the weird idling is a symptom of something else, since the car still turns over.
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Symptoms- won't rev over 3000-3500 rpm's, upon acceleration (especially uphill) seems to struggle and won't accelerate much at all, seems as if trans changes fine. BTW, throwing no codes at present.
What I have already tried...new air filter, new fuel filter, had cat. check (was told stopped up but when removed found it was not and truck did the same even with cat. off), o2 sensor (upstream) replaced, battery disconnected to reset computer.
After reset of computer, runs a little better but still not good. Seems to start if you accelerate to quickly or when truck reaches around 40-45 mph.
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My 1994 Acura Integra with 243k original miles on it apparently blew a head gasket a couple of weeks ago, overheated, and ended up at the mechanic's shop with the head removed. He had it pressure tested, and they found a crack in the head's coolant jacket. So, it's toast. Wanting to keep the car (it's in great shape otherwise), I was presented with two choices.
Replace the head Replace the engine.
My question: What do I need to make sure the mechanic does or checks out on the new-to-me engine, to be sure I can get another 100,00+ miles out if it? It comes with NO warranty, and there are no records of how it was maintained or driven by its original owner(s). It's basically been "preserved" (how?) and sitting on a pallet in New Jersey for the past 16-ish years.
He says he's had good luck with them in the past, but has not done very many. He also claims that it will be an exact match, for smog / registration purposes, or he "will send it back" (his words). But I'm still nervous. Have I made the right choice?
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Manual... I hear this buzzing sound, mostly during deceleration, on 2nd, 3rd or 4th gears between 2300-3000rpms, very annoying on 2nd and 3rd gears, but can still somewhat noticeable on 4th gear. Can also hear it on acceleration, sometimes on 2nd and 3rd gear, silent on 4th gear.
I've turned off soundaktor thru VCDS, but still hearing this sound so I was thinking that the hockey puck is still spinning, albeit not as annoying as when it's 100%. So I tried to disconnect it, still hearing that buzzing sound. I even removed all stuff from my car and it's still buzzing. Really annoying, specially if you just want to hear the sound of the engine braking on deceleration.
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2003 Chevy Silverado 3500 driver side headliner noise. There is a buzz coming from what appears to be a small 1.5" diameter plastic fan cover. What is the fan for and can it be disabled?
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1987 Acura Integra Automatic, 160k I have been noticing - mostly for every start (there are a few in between that did not have that sound).
When starting, a loud sound (some what unbearable) heard and was hesitant and then the engine starts. Once started it runs fine. It is not the usual sound that the ignition makes when going bad.
What seems to be the issue? Right after I drained and filled AT fluid, it heard the first time. I have been doing AT fluid since nearly 10yrs ago with Honda fluid. I only did drain and fill and it went smoothly. In 2007, the tranny was replaced. After starting, the car runs smoothly - it is only when starting or just before engine try to start. Batt and alternator tests fine.
It hardly did it today - I might have once heard a girding sound just before starting.
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I have a 1996 Acura RL 3.5 with the premium package, if that makes any difference. When I start the car, i hear a buzzing sound which sounds like it is coming from the ABS system. The ABS light comes on continuously until the buzzing stops, then turns off. I was told by the mechanic that Honda no longer makes the system to flush the ABS system, which would likely fix my problem but instead said I would need to put in a new ABS pump and put in a refurbished accumulator-cost $1600+, more if I put in all new parts.
I want to disable it because I can't afford that sort of repair and the brakes work fine with the ABS. The mechanic said they would do it but it is "illegal" for them to do so. I have the manual for the under the hold fuse box, it has 4 fuses for ABS listed. ABS Unit, ABS B2, ABS B1 and ABS Motor. Which ones do I pull and is there anything else I would need to do to disable it.
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Codes currently on ecm: P0134, P2125, P1174, P0735 My 2003 Santa Fe 2wd 3.5l with 160,000 miles was driving fine, then all the sudden whenever I reach about 3500 rpms there's a grinding noise that sounds like its coming from near or in the automatic transmission. As for the codes: P0134- I just replaced the o2 sensor with an oem part from autozone, so not sure why that's popping up. The connections look fine. P2125 and P1174- I'm trying to figure out whether the accelerator position sensor or throttle position sensor needs to be replaced. I have a multimeter but don't know if that will be able to tell me which one is out. The P0735 gear 5 incorrect ratio and grinding noise at 3500 rpms is what I am mostly worried about though. Could a transmission flush work with that?
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I have an 88 acura integra and the problim is that once in a while it would not start after it had been running. If I let it sit for 5 min it would start. Now it is happening everyday. One time it will start great and run fine, but when I turn it off I don't know if it will start again. I checked the gas and it is getting gas and the pressure is fine, but when it last happened it would turn over but wouldn't start for the rest of the day, I checked and it had no spark. After I replaced the ignition control mod and rotor, it started on the second try but when i got to work and turned it off the same thing. I let it sit for a while (about 15 min) and it started. Like I said after it starts it runs great, lots of power, no missing or any thing.
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I just bought a 95 Acura Integra from Canada. I haven't driven it in a few weeks. It has a lot of stuff in it. An aftermarket engine and intake. Also aftermarket speakers and stereo. It has blue lights installed by the pedals. Now it won't start. I got stuck in town the other day. Whats wrong? I really love this car. Awesome body kit and everything. I don't wanna sell it!
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I have a 1996 Acura Integra with manual transmission. It has only 113K miles on it. I put on only 6K to 7.5K miles a year. I have owned the car since it was new & have always changed the oil & oil filter myself. Until about 3 years ago I changed the oil & filter 4 times a year--roughly about every 2K miles. Three years ago I reduced the number of oil changes to 3 times per year. Recently it was suggested to me that even that was too many and that I should change the oil & filter every 6 months. To be honest I am not comfortable with that but I also realize that my discomfort may simply come from habit. I have changed the oil & filter every 2K on every car that I have owned since I was a teenager. I should tell you that I am 80 years old and live on my savings & a pension. To replace this car would cost me between $25K to $30K so it is to my advantage to keep the car on the road for as long as I can. In short will I be doing any harm to the engine by changing the oil every 6 months?
A second question that I have about oil is that it is becoming increasingly more & more difficult to buy a high quality brand of conventional motor oil. When I shop I have been finding that the better engine oils, Castrol GTX, for example, do not offer much of a selection when it comes to conventional motor oil. In fact conventional motor oil is their cheapest oil. Most of the varieties of oil that they offer are blends of conventional motor oil & synthetic oil. I have heard conflicting statements about switching from conventional oil to synthetic oil. Some say it is dangerous to do and that it should not be done while others say that it does no harm. But what about switching to a blend of conventional oil & synthetic oil? Will that cause any damage to the engine?
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5 miles to the airport last night, cruising on the freeway, my transmission suddenly accelerates from the steady 3000 rpm to 3500 rpm. When I press on the accelerator, the engine speed and my actual speed are no longer in sync. It feels like the transmission is no longer shifting. The radio cuts out and all the lights dim. My airbag warning light flashes intermittently at me. I make it to the airport, afraid to turn the key off; but I must. I attempt a restart - nothing. All red lights but no engine cranking. What gives? A fuse, the alternator? The car - 2003 mazda protege. The driver - stranded when I return home.
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I've got a couple of issues with a 2002, 2.7ltr v6 santa fe first off when taking off steady the car runs fine but taking off quickly it seems to lack power until it hits around 3000-3500rpm est then it takes off fine and all threw the upper rev range the auto seams sluggish but I'm not shore as I haven't driven another 2.7ltr as a benchmark. No error codes are present.
The second issue I brought a new keyless remote for the car and looked up a thread on how to program this they had reference to a set switch behind the fuse box behind the lower dash panel I went looking and found what I think is the remote receiver it has what is like a antenna cable plugged into it but no set-off switch at all is there any way to get this new remote programed or will it have to be done threw dealer or is there something I would be missing?
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Car: 1995 Corolla 1.8L automatic
Symptom: misfires around 3000-3500 RPM only when warm.
I have replaced the following:
-Spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
-Ignition coil
-Fuel filter
-Poured some quality fuel system cleaner into the gas tank
The car stutters when accelerating in any gear hard enough to reach the engine speed that the misfire occurs at. It doesn't backfire, it just misses... I am confused since so many of the misfire issues I know about that are RPM specific are spark-related.
I have considered cleaning the injectors, but don't want to go through the hassle to remove and have them cleaned unless I really have to. Checking if hunch on the injectors is correct? Something else?
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2000 Acura Integra Auto ... Replaced the radiator through Kragen (O'Reilly)Didn't come with a cap - using the existing one.If you tighten it, it goes around through 360 degrees ...
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Once a week or so my car doesn't start right away after I have driven some where, such as to get coffee, the library, or shirts from the cleaners, It makes noise as if it will start, but then gives up. If I sit and wait patiently -- doing nothing for 15 to 20 minutes or so, it will start. The mechanics have checked it over several times, but can't figure out what's wrong. They suggested putting in a new engine relay a week and half ago. Since then, the problem has happened twice.
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I recently had my oil &filter changed on my 01 integra at the dealer and was told that my oil pan gasket has started to leak. Car has 180k on it, and has no engine leaks.Seems like steep price for the repair $340.00 for the oil pan gasket. Is this repair really worth doing on a 12yr old car or is this just a normal thing that happens w/ age. Also Oil is not leaking on the ground and has no leaks around the engine. Iam only adding 1qt. of oil every 3k.
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My 2000 Integra with 180,000 miles that never gave me a moment of trouble, stalled at a stop sign and hasn't started since. The info:
1. Engine cranks
2. Check Engine light comes on and then goes off after a few seconds (assume no error code)
3. Removing a spark plug shows spark
4. All fuses ok
5. Fuel pump relay ok
6. Removed fuel filter, turned on ignition (not trying to crank), fuel is coming through. There isn't much pressure, the fuel comes out like a water fountain. I assume the fuel pump is ok.
My thinking is that I either don't have spark or I don't have fuel. The spark looks ok. The fuel pump is moving fuel, I don't know if the pump can fail in a way that moves fuel but at too low a pressure. Is there another device, in the fuel delivery system, between the pump and the cylinder that I can check?
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I have a 01 b5.5 Passat. When I'm in tiptronic and I'm about to hit 3000 rpms, a really off noise goes off and it's like a grinding sound.... Like when your car doesn't want to go to the next gear!
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