Audi - A4 :: Check Oil Pressure Light Came On And Immediately After Car Dead
May 24, 2013
I have a 2008 Audi A4. Today while at a stop light, suddenly, the 'check oil pressure' light came on. Immediately after the car died. I tried to restart to no avail. After pushing the car to a safer stop, I checked the oil level. It was perfect. I let thecar sit while I did some quick research on my smartphone after which I tried again to restart. The car was as if the starter was dead. It did not turn whatsoever. Next, a warning light came on to 'tighten fuel cap', which was completely secure. Then, a warning that my headlights were misaligned. I started checking fuses....all fine. The cars fan started and the check oil pressure light came on again. The car still will not turnover whatsoever, however, everything else works fine; lights, radio, fan, etc.... So, I called the dealer and theyre clueless unless they hookup the sensors.
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I have a 2002 Audi A4 V6 - two weeks ago the oil pressure light came on - I pulled over checked the oil (it was OK) started the car back up and the light was gone. this has happened 5 or 6 times in the last two weeks. I either turn the engine off and restart and it's gone or it comes on, chimes three times, and then goes off. no real pattern except the car needs to be running for at last 20 minutes and it happens between 20 mph and 40 mph never at high speed or at idle.
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My 2014 Audi A6 is running fine, but the check engine light has come on twice. I brought it to the dealer and they said that the "fuel level sensor circuit range/performance" is the problem, but that Audi does not have a solution for this problem! Weird that they have an indicator light for something they can't fix. They assure me that it's nothing to worry about, but I'm not feeling very reassured by Audi these days. They reset the engine light, but it came back on again. Does this sound right?
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I am considering buying a used 2013 Audi Q5 with 25K miles. The day I was supposed to see the SUV the check engine light came on-. The catalytic converter had to be replaced. The dealership could not give a good reason why this happened. During the winter, the owner backed into a pile of snow--and dented the under panel in the rear that has since been replaced.
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that's got 105k miles on it. A couple months ago, the check engine light came on while I was driving it. While it was on, it was flashing and the car felt like it was shuddering, like there was not enough gas getting to the engine. Then the CIL stopped flashing. It happened several times during my short outing that day, but then it never happened again. Now the flashing CIL is back and the car feels the same way when it's happening. I took it to an auto parts store to get the trouble codes read and the guy said P0300 (random cylinder misfire) and P0305 (cylinder 5 misfire) came up.
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2004 Audi A6 2.7 T quattro ... Check engine light comes on and three mechanics all say i need new torque converter even tho i have no symptoms as yet. Will I get symptoms eventually, or could this be an electrical issue. When they turn off the warning light, it takes a day or so to come back on. There has been no reduction of mileage, no gear slipping, no problem accelerating.
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Question about the oil light. On a cold start the oil pressure light goes out immediately.
After driving around for a while (engine warmed up) and shutting off the engine for anywhere between 45 to 60 minutes or so and then starting the engine again, the oil light will go out immediately, but then SOMETIMES, pop back on, MAYBE flicker, then stay off. This all takes place in less than a second, almost a microsecond. This is all very intermittent too, No rhyme or reason as to temp or time between starts. Engine is very quiet, except for a COLD start (over night). I use 5-20 and it makes no difference whether using conventional or synthetic.
I change my own oil, but dealer did it once and I still get the same issue. I suspect the sending unit, or is this 'normal'?
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that has an intermittently flashing check engine light. I took it to the dealership to have the codes read and they told me that they got codes for Cylinder 2 and Cylinder 5 misfires. Additionally they got a code saying the Engine Coolant Temperature Sender was electronically faulty. What is this part and what does it do? Is it essential to fix it immediately?
The dealership recommended changing the spark plugs and the air filters for the cylinder misfire issue. We are also talking about replacing the timing belt since the car has 105k miles on it. I know there are several other parts that are replaced during the timing belt replacement (like the water pump, thermostat, oil seals, etc). Is it essential to replace these items if there is no immediate need to do so?
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The oil light on my 2015 Camry LE turns off immediately after I crank the engine, and half a second later goes back on again for less than a second. I showed this to the dealer and they said it is normal; however none of my other cars did that. Perhaps the factory filter is bad and needs to be replaced? It does it only if the car sits for a while. If I turn the engine off for 10 minutes and turn it back on it does not do it, which tells me that perhaps anti-drain valve is bad...
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I have a 2002 ford explorer with 70000 miles on it. The problem is that the oil pressure occasionally go from normal to no pressure immediately. Then within a minute it pops right back to normal. It has happened when I first crank up and sometimes just going down the interstate at a normal speed. My fear is that the oil pressure is really gone and there is a pump problem but with it either working or not I fear it could be a sensor problem.
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I have a 98 Audi A6. Immediately when I hit the accelerator from a dead stop I hear a slight bang that seems to come from under the car in the area under the front drivers seat. It only happens when I hit the gas and the car starts forward. I'm not putting the pedal to the floor either, just a nice gradually start from a dead stop. This is the only time that I hear this noise, nothing while driving or making turns. The noise sounds like when you might squeeze and empty tin box! that distinct bang you hear. What might this be?
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Today I started my 2000 Suburban on the coldest morning ever, -14 degrees actual temp. I went inside to let it warm up and about 15 min later I went out to go to work and the check oil pressure light was on and oil pressure read 0. Is this due to extreme cold and thick oil ? Or did something break on start up. I am going to wait until temps are up before I try it again as it was running awful. I am fearing that 15 min warm up may have hurt her.
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I have a 1991 Audi 100 that is flawless and paid for. 215,000 miles and doesn't leak or use a drop of any vital fluid. It does have one problem: While under load and accelerating from a dead stop, about 75% of the time the engine hesitates as if it is not getting any fuel. You step on the accelerator, get no response for one second and then off you go, no problem. On occasion while accelerating from a dead stop, the engine will quickly cough, pop like a backfire, and then catch. I have replaced the fuel filter, and through accident inadvertently found out that I seem to have excellent fuel pressure. While at speed, I seem to have little or no problem with instant acceleration when the accelerator is pressed.
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I am driving down the road and the TPMS light starts to blink - and then stays on. I looked in the manual and it says that "When the light comes on after blinking for 1 minute: Malfunction in the tire pressure warning system." The resolution is to "Have the system checked by your Toyota dealer."
All my pressures, including the spare are how I have them set. I also made sure to re-set the TPMS button under the steering wheel to the new pressures and everything. I'll let you know what I find out. I'm kinda mad a sensor has failed though on a car that's less than one year old.
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So I went to start the car (2013 C3) and it wouldn't start. The batter was horribly dead (dim screen and would only go into POWER ON mode.) I charged the battery for like a half hour using a plug in charger using the hood terminals. When I tried to turn it on later, The only thing that came on was the check engine light (really dim) so it's not charged up enough yet obviously. The issue is now it won't turn off. That check engine light is still there. No other screens are on and the vehicle doesn't make any other noises (door ajar, etc.)
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For years, intermittently, my Check Engine Light was on steady. The Ford dealer tried four times (at a cost to me of nearly $400) but was never able to fix the problem. I was always able to get it smogged because I took it in during those periods when the light was functioning normally. But now I've got to get the car smogged again and the light is dead. Could be the bulb or something else. Should I take it to an electric shop or a regular mechanic? I understand that CEL issues are common to Fords of this vintage, but the Ford dealers haven't been useful.
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I have an Audi a8 2006 with tpms. I got an error yesterday saying all levels were low. Slightly. This morning before driving anywhere, I filled the tires to the spec pressures 38 fr and 36 rear. I initialized through the mmi system. When I had it display pressures the pressures on the drivers side were lower in the 30-33 range but with temps in the 118 range. On the pass side pressures were reading 38-40 with temps in the 80 range.The car was not driven for 16 hours prior to filling up tires. Car in a garage. Displayed values were as soon as i turned car on. I didn't drive 10 feet. What this means? Bad sensor? Receiver?
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My 2009 Camry check engine light is on. Dealer said the two O2 sensor both are dead and need to replace. After dealer reset the check engine light I have driven two days for 50 miles and the check engine light doesn't come back. If the O2 sensor is bad how long does it take for check engine light on again? Is it possible the check engine report on by mistake since two O2 sensors got bad at the exact same time is really rare.
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2nd battery in 2010 Sonata 4-cyl died on my wife last night. Got a new battery today and put it in. (Couldn't move car even to push as there wasn't enough juice left to get transmission out of Park). Started right up after battery replacement and ran engine at idle for probably a half hour. Engine seemed to run a little funny. Lost RPM's and sounded like it might die a couple of times, but it stayed running. Now the dreaded check engine light is on. I've had a couple of stop-starts since it began, so I'm not sure it's going to go away. Car seems to be running fine now. Is there a connection between the battery going dead (so dead I lost radio presets and trip odometer readings) and something fouling up the check engine system?
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My check engine light came on, I took the car to my usual mechanic, and he said the codes returned indicated that two cells in the batter were bad. (I just called to get the codes, but he's out of the office for about 30 minutes on a test drive...)
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I went out in the 9 degree temp this morning to start my car and take off for work. I sat down and hit the power button and some console lights came on. The gear lights were blinking with a square light around each letter (P, D, R, B...) and the pips on the fuel gauge were blinking, beeping during each blink. Also, the green light on the power button was blinking and the little light showing that the key was not in the car was also on but the key was beside me. I turned it off to try it again.
Before I turned it back on, I inserted the key in the slot and hit the power button again and just the Check Engine light came on and everything else was black. There was a slow tempo click-click-click-click... sound coming from under the hood and the Check Engine light was just sitting there. I tried to turn the car off but the power button was not doing anything. All I could do is let the Check Engine light stay on and the click-click-click-click... sound chirp away. I went back out in a couple hours and the battery was dead.
Just seeing if that might mean something specific before I go drop about $200 on a new 12v battery later today.
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