Bmw - 325 :: Engine Light Popped On - Rough Idle And Code Showing For Misfire
Apr 4, 2013
I own a 2001 BMW 325i. I bought it in 2011, it was in excellent condition, except for a small oil leak. I fixed the leak and then everything started happening. I've replaced so many things in this car that I've actually put more in to it then what I paid for it. This last issue was a rough idle and the scanner was showing me the code for a misfire. I took it in to the mechanic, he found that it was the first injector, replaced it, the night I picked it up it was still doing the same thing...engine light popped on. I brought it back the next day, they kept it for over a week, running test after test, finally they did an internal survey and found that the first cylinder is damaged and the shop has condemned the engine. My question is this: Is there no way to repair a cylinder? How or why does this happen and how much longer can I drive the car before it craps out on me. So far, it is rough when it's cold..but once it warms up it rides just fine. Engine light comes on and then goes off.
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My windstar 3.8 engine has idle problems and engine light comes on at times. Code po305 (misfire #5). When I add sea-form to tank and drive awhile, the engine light goes out and the engine idle's normal. Is this an eva problem and what should I look for?
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1999 ranger 3.0. Check engine light popped up showing P1000 and P0401 codes. I think the p1000 is a system readiness test. Not sure why that came up and the 401 is exhaust gas problem. I put on a new autozone DPFE a few months ago..
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In the last month, my car has had an awful time starting on 2 different occasions. The first time it ran really rough for about 1 minute then was ok. The second time was the same but the engine light came on. Took it to an out of town dealer and he said it showed a misfire code but could never find anything else and all looked OK. Spark plugs?
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Driving home from work this evening and engine light lights up, also car started to idle very rough.... long story short got the car home and checked with vag com... 2 engine codes
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 86567 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2012.12.31
Time: 14:26:57
[Code] .....
After looking around online found out it could be a variety of reasons... gonna change spark plugs tomorrow hoping that's the problem... next cheapest fix would be the ignition coils... I'm just hoping its not internal, like piston or rings.
It's a 2007 Passat Wolfsburg 2.0T.... just went over the 53k mark.
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'02 TB w/ code P0300 / Random misfire. Started the other day when it was very damp out, FWIW. Feels like ur driving on rumble strips during acceleration. Rough idle also. It does not do this continually though as after a while (minute) it clears up and runs smooth for a while then runs rough & light will again for a while. I seafoamed it today since it been about 60k since last seafoam. I thought that might have worked until I drove about 20 mile and it went rough again. I also cleaned the oil out of the cam sensor elect connector, since that caused rough running before, although it didn't throw that code. It seems to be very intermittent. '02 TB, 185k miles, orig plugs changed at 125k. Is it actually just going in & out of a limp-mode? O2 since it's random ???
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I recently bought a 00 Excursion v10 2wd everything looked right no major problems. I noticed it has a rough idle and i thought it could be the EGR i went under the hood and there's no EGR in sight. I plugged the OBD reader to see if it would give any codes since the there was no check engine light on and wanted wanted to make sure it worked, It showed a P0304 code its Cyl4 misfire i checked plugs/coils and i noticed there's a little insert inside Cyl4 plugs hole in the head that it has the plug screwed on. I decided to change all the plugs and the coils and i still have the rough idle and code i can hear a ticking noise around the engine in the passenger side.
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I bought this from my brother in better than mint condition. Always maintained. Its generating a cyl #2 misfire code.
It starts and runs like new when cold, but when it warms up, it idles rough, and generates the code. after 1500 rpm it smooths right out and runs fine.
He had it to the dealer just before I bought it and they told him needed a new engine.
I am thinking bad injector, since what seems to be happening is, when cold it gets more fuel, or when u rev it gets more fuel, but at an idle and warm, it doesn't seem to be getting enough maybe. And I see from the maintenance records, a couple of other injectors have been replaced as well.
I think the dealer got tired of replacing injectors under warranty and tried to milk him for a new engine.
2002 ranger extended cab 2wd, 3 door, 232,000 kms 5 speed 3 liter V6, new glass and clutch..
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Have an 06 F150 5.4 3v with no power. spark knock. rough idle. wants to die while driving, and random misfire code. Have replaced fuel pump, filter, coils and plugs. What to check next? Already thought of EGR - it doesn't have one.
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Have a 2001 V6. Notice a check engine light popped on and thats the code I got. I do have a custom cat back exhaust. Left both cats on there just took out rear muffler and resonator and then put in glass pack. Wondering if this is something that is cause by the catback exhaust? I have had the exhaust on for some time, few hundred miles. How to replace this?
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I recently purchased an 06 f150 fx4 5.4L with 60K miles. Just recently my check engine light came on and I've noticed a slight rough idle in park. I took it to autozone and the code read P0422 evap emission leak. Bought a new fuel cap but didn't work... EGR valve?
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My friend has a 2003 Toyota Echo that is throwing a cylinder misfire code. Original code is P0302 and P0302PD. The car is idling rougher, kind of sounds like "put-put-put". Also, the car has no power at all. He lives on a hill and he can't even pull out of his driveway. Lastly, the smell of the exhaust is gassy.
We have changed out the spark plugs...no change. Next, we bought a new ignition coil for the number two cylinder...no change. So, maybe its the wiring. Put the new coil onto the number 3 cylinder and the number 3 coil onto the 2 cylinder. Low and behold, the misfire code changes to P0303 and P0303PD.
Thinking we might have gotten a dud of a coil, we bought another. Same thing...new coil on 2 code is P0302...new coil on 3, code is P0303. Could we just have gotten two bad coils? Oh, coils were a BWD brand coil and Duralast brand. Should we just go OEM from dealer? OR Denso from Advance Auto?
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Last year my car popped up with the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light. I am cheap so I went out and bought a code reader- code 1443 came up. Online I found this information: 1443-Evaporative Emission Control System - Vacuum System - Purge Control Solenoid or Purge Control Valve fault. I bought something from Ford for $81, erased the code and it came back on a week later. I just kept erasing it. It quit coming back on in November so I figured the bulb had burned out but the Light came on when I started the car. So I just ignored it. Now that the weather has warmed up again the light comes back on with the same code. Other question. Are there any modern cars that are as easy to work on as, say, a 68 Falcon? Or even a 74 Pinto? I don't expect real ease I just want to be able to stick my hand in the engine compartment with a blood sacrifice.
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Now, I just bought a 07 Yukon which seems to be in a great condition. The check engine light just popped up so I went to a mechanic and he said the code is p0455.
He did a smoke test and showed me that smoke is coming out of the rear of the vehicle at the gas tank area and the car needs the vent valve solenoid changed, but it's only sold at dealer.
So u went to dealer and got this part and decided to change it myself which was quite easy and fun.
I went back to clear the light, then a week later the light came back on, so I went back to him thinking maybe I didn't do it right, so he did another smoke test and sure enough we see smoke coming out of the rear again, so I looked under the car and saw it was coming out of the end of the vent valve assembly which I think is a small air filter. Is that normal? Or is the part defective?
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The engine on my camry 2007 was overheated and I had the headgasket replaced but now it has misfire codes and rough idle this is a 2.4 engine I replaced 2 of the coils but still it has a rough idle... when the car is running it runs pretty good.
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I have a 2001 Prius with 210,000 miles. The inverter and traction battery were replaced last year. I started getting triangle and check engine lights about a month ago and the scan tool read p3191 p3006 p0300. The car would barely start in the mornings and the dash lights would be dim. I replaced the 12v aux battery today and all the symptoms went away. Driving home the triangle/check engine light popped on again and I stopped at Orielly's to use their scan tool. It now only reads P3006. I called a local mechanic who suggested to drive it a bit and clear the codes because the battery needed to equalize. Is this true?
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Just started getting a p0300 random misfire code on the durango a couple days ago. pretty sure it isn't moisture related since it started on a nice sunny day. it was running pretty rough so it was obvious that it was misfiring. I changed the plugs since it was about time anyway, and they needed it and I cleared the codes. new plugs (put in the oem champion copper plugs) didn't make the problem go away. The engine still ran rough and the code came back. 2 of the plugs looked like they may have been fouling a little bit. they were a fair bit blacker than the rest of the plugs. I went ahead and changed the coils on those two cylinders and reset the codes again. Still runs rough and the p0300 came back. where do I go from here? I am not getting any specific cylinder codes so it makes sense to me that it isn't one or two cylinders not getting spark. 2003 durango 4.7 ....
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My check engine light has been coming on and off and it seems to show P0420 for catalytic converter. The light stays off for about a week and it'll come on for a day or two and off again.
Wouldn't a failed converter stay failed? Can P0420 be triggered by loose/bad gas caps?
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I have a 3.0 Ranger, AT 2WD, from 2001 with 175K miles on it. I have a CEL on, with Misfire cylinder #5.
Also when the truck is cold and I step on the gas, it seems to run on like 3 cylinder for 2-3seconds and then it somehow fixes itself and runs great until it warms up.
After it warms up, it shakes violently at idle. The shaking goes completely away once I'm past 1200 rpm or while driving. What I tried so far:
- All new Motorcraft filters (Air, fuel)
- Motorcraft Plugs
- Motorcraft Wires
- Motorcraft Coil
- Ran thru two cans of SeaFoam
- Checked injector resistance
- "Reset" the ECU
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Cleaned IAC
What else I need to check?
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A couple weeks ago, my check engine light popped on and I noticed my engine misfire. I happened to be driving by an autozone, so I pulled in and had them check the code. Came back as a misfire on cylinder 4, possibly bad ignition coil or clogged injector. I ran some techron for the next couple of gas tanks, didn't seem to do much, as I would still occasionally get the check engine light.
It has been getting more and more common for it to happen while driving since. Today on the way home from work, it misfired several times in a row and got so bad that I couldn't get above 40mph. This lasted for a minute or two, then cleared up and I made it home without a hitch. Took it back to autozone, same code..Cylinder 4 misfire, probably ignition coil or primary/secondary ignition b fault. I went ahead and bought an ignition coil, came back home and installed. Just took it for a test drive and now I've got the same issue.
I only replaced the one coil that has been throwing a code as misfiring. I did not also replace the spark plug on that cylinder.
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