Bmw - 740 - Sensors :: 1994 - Crank But Won't Start
Sep 18, 2011
1994 BMW 740i... One morning, started my car - it coughed and sputtered and finally died. No check engine light. I tried to get codes from computer using the gas pedal/stomp method and got nothing. More attempts at starting eventually resulted in complete failure of ignition, ie. it will crank but not start. New fuel pump relay. Fuel pressure is good. Battery is new. I tested crank position sensor and got a steady .6 -.8 VAC. I tested the cam position sensor and got a measurement cycling between .6VAC and 0VAC. Could this be the culprit? or is it normal for cam sensor to go to zero during cranking?
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My 1998 malibu starts most of the time, there is a continual light on the dash and according to the maintenance book from chevy, they are saying check your emissions system. Also on the times when the car does not start right away, the oil, battery light also goes on; the sound is rrrrr, weaker and weaker, wait 5 minutes and can start the car. This has been the pattern. Diagnostics say it is the crank shaft sensor..... I have already read your stream about crank shafts sensors.
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We have a 94 ford explorer and every now and again it has issues on the start up. It will sound like it will want to crank over but just won't. If we wait 20 mins it will start up no problem. We have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition coil, and fuel pump relay but it still has this problem. Also occasionally the a/c blower wont turn on. Tonight it happened again and I pulled the fuel pump relay out and it was really hot, after it cooled down and was put back in the car started. I am beginning to think it maybe an overheating issue that is affecting the relays but am not sure. I was also wondering about changing out the relay box...
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94 Ranger, 4.0, Automatic, 280k miles. Normally starts and always runs fine. Sometimes will crank and not start. Fuel pump replaced Feb. 2015 and again Dec. 2016. Have had it towed 3 times. Always starts when it gets to the mechanic. Sort of reminds me of vapor lock on the old cars with carbs, because if it sits long enough after not starting, it will start, no problem. Never died out or even coughed when running and plenty of power. When I take off the gas cap, it sucks in air like a whale. Twice I did that and it will not start right away, but if it sits for an hour or so, it starts no problem. Just bought a new gas cap 10 minutes ago and looked in a Haynes manual and a " gas tank vapor valve assembly" is mentioned. I don't want to change parts just to see what happens. Mechanics say there are no codes shown.
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Sometimes after running my 94 Limited, it doesn't want to start - it does crank - like it's not getting fuel. I have found the work around and want to know if it would be fixed by replacing the fuel pump relay.
The symptom is just after starting, it starts to run poorly, and then dies out, then will not start at all. I use to keep trying to start it for 20-40 minutes and suddenly it seemed to work.
It seems the work around is to turn the key to on for about 5 seconds and then turn it off - then it starts and runs as good as ever.
So, is this a symptom of a bad relay? I thought I'd start there because of the cost of the relay is fairly cheap. 1994 Explorer Limited 4x4?
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My father inlaw has a dodge van that is having problems starting. When starting it will crank, but will not fire. We have discovered that if you remove the 20 amp Oxygen Sensor relay, under the hood, and jump it directly to the battery, while starting if will start. The fuse appears to be good. Can the O2 sensor relay prevent the van from starting, but run after initially bypassing after starting? What it might be?
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I own a 1994 Chevy Beauville. 12 passenger G-30 (1 ton) with 48k on the 305 V-8. Starting last year I have had problems starting it. At first it was just having to crank it 5 or 10 times. This was random, sometimes weeks would go by with no problems. But it became more frequent as the year wore on. Then twice, while driving, the motor shut off. The check engine light would come on and it would take the usual 5 to 10 cranks it start it. By the time I got to the local garage the light would be off and the set codes would show nothing likely to fix.
Continued this year so finally left it at shop for a week. Not once did it act up, so rolled the dice and installed a rebuilt distributor last week. Took it for a drive yesterday and after 15 miles of driving the motor shut off twice within a mile. Would not restart so had it towed back to garage. Several codes where set so they started looking. Spark tester showed no spark so they put on a test coil and it started right up. Switched back to my coil and, of course, it started right up. They checked for voltage drop but it's ok. Also checked for loose wires. Now when they start it, it runs for 15 seconds and stalls. Saw this happen multiple times.
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When my truck is cold, I have to turn the key two or three times to get it to start. By that I mean I turn the key, turn it all the way off, and turn it again until the engine starts. The first two times, it doesn't crank or make any noise at all, but the radio and dashboard lights come on. I got the truck in May and it hasn't done this all summer.Also, if it idles at a red light when it is cold, it will stop running and I have the same problem as above when I try to re-start it.There is also a smell of burning rubber in the cab once it has warmed up.
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We had to jump start the truck and my buddy hooked up jumper cables wrong on his truck so I'm hoping the computer isn't fried. I turn the key and the only things that work are the door dinger and the dome light. Nothing on the gauge cluster and no radio. Dead silent when I turn the key to crank.
1994 toyota pickup 22re....
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I have a 1994 Dodge RAM 1500, v8, 5.2 liter truck. A few months ago, I noticed that when it's at normal temperature, it would not crank unless I floored the accelerator. Once it cranked, it was hard to keep it idling at a constant RPM. I have to rev it up a lot to finally get it to idle by itself or to put it in Drive to move. Once it's moving, everything seems pretty good. If I stop and change gears (Park, for example), it will stall. I have also noticed this happening if I'm in Park, then turn on the air conditioning putting a load on the engine, it will stall.
When the engine is cold (sitting for several hours), it cranks fine and runs fine.
I have replaced the idle air control (IAC) valve, the throttle position sensor, the MAP sensor, the Crank sensor between the motor and the transmission (what a pain to replace), the O2 sensor upstream of the catalytic converter, and the computer (with a used one from a salvage yard. And, I had a mechanic check out the distributor cap and it's internals and do whatever he did.
I did read somewhere that the coolant temperature sensor may be an issue?
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I just replaced the fuel sensors and know don't have power to the fuel pump. ( checked at the harness). I had to take the canister apart to get the sensor to go in and I had the rubber seal fall off the gas tank pressure sensor the first time I hooked it up. I did find that and put it back on. I checked the fuel pump fuse and switched out the fuel pump relay with the one for the horn and had no luck .
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My car will not start intermittently and I've narrowed it down to these sensors and want to replace them ASAP. How to replace it and it was about a 10 minute job.
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I have 1994 ranger 2.3 2wd will not start when key is turned to start position - when clutch is depressed there is a click from fender mounted solenoid but it never cranks motor or starter--I need wiring diagram to trace origin of wire on starter solenoid because it does not have 12volts on it--when I jumper 12v on it and have it in neutral it starts up and runs but no voltage and no start with key....
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98 Rav4 (130,000 miles) starts fine, idles fine, runs fine for 30 seconds then the accelerator no longer has any effect. I can put the pedal to the floor, but there is no gas getting to the engine, it will idles but doesn't go. Until it warms up to operating temperature and then it is just fine.
This gets worse the more times I stop for an hour then try to go again - it is better when it is starting from being completely cold.
The check engine light does not come on, two different mechanics have tested it - no codes are produced - the computer thinks everything is just fine. One of the mechanics called his buddies at a Toyota garage in California but none of the 12 mechanics there could figure it out.
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This past monday morning I got in my 05 Legacy GT w/ 82,000 miles. When I turned the key it acted as if the starter engaged for a second then disengaged and made the typical motor winding sound. I tried it several more times with the same result. So I reluctantly called my local repair shop and had it hauled over for what I thought was possibly a bad starter. The mechanic went out to check it to see what it was doing and when he did, it started right up…..!! He said that when it started it ran as if it had been flooded for a minute or two then cleared up. Throughout the day he drove it around and started it about 20 times and said it “appears” to be ok. It’s a small shop that I trust with my other cars but they don’t have the tech to pull codes on a subaru. So my question is, what was the cause of this issue? Neutral Switch? Cam Sensor? or a Fluke?
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I have read countless threads and have done research and can't figure out my issue. Had remote start installed in the truck a month ago. The day it was installed sensors were working. I left the shop and went to back in and noticed they didn't work and the light popped when in reverse and sometime it will the random beeping. I did the check and found the inner right sensor was not buzzing. So ordered four from eBay and it still doesn't work. I even switched one of the others out thinking it was the eBay special issue. It didnt work so it's just that sensor. Now what? I have checked the wiring under the truck and it all looks good. What's my next step? Could the remote start have taken just one sensor out?
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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I have a 97 F150 w 4.6L engine with auto trans which I bought new and has approx. 150,000 miles on it. Very recently it would crank and crank and not start or sometimes would start. In searching through multiple threads on here many of the Ford techs recommended replacing the IAC valve as a cheap and easy to do fix and I did that. The OEM factory IAC valve appeared to be dirty with black soot. I also cleaned the MAF sensor in the air filter snorkel. I also replaced my very old battery at the same time. I verified that the fuel pump was running for about a second or two and shuts off after the ignition switch was turned to ON so the fuel pump is running since I could hear it. I replaced he fuel filter several years ago so it should be OK and not plugged.
I had to use starting fluid after the battery replacement to get the truck running but after I got it started and I did several driving cycles over three days to make sure the truck computer reset properly and the truck was running fine and starting without a problem. I was checking the starting every 4 hours or so for the first two days and it would start on the first crank every time without a hiccup.
This morning on day 4 when I went to start it the same problem occurred where it would crank several times and not start. I loosened the filter snorkel up and shot some starting fluid in there and it cranked up after a couple of tries and ran fine all the way to work. It seems like I have a fuel delivery issue of some type. I know the fuel pump is inside the tank and very expensive to replace if it turns out that it needs replacement. That is definitely beyond my capabilities. I plan to check the fuel pressure this weekend when I have a chance and can rent a gauge from Autozone.
My question is this: If it turns out to be a defective fuel pump can I just add an inline electric fuel pump outside the tank and have it pull through the tank in the pump leaving the in-tank pump abandoned in place? Are there any other sensors or parts I should be checking for voltages, resistance, etc. that would affect fuel delivery for starting? The truck seems to run very well with no misses of any kind and accelerates nicely after it starts. Also, no "Check Engine" light at any time and the bulb is working since it lights up momentarily when the ignition is turned to ON position.
Update Saturday June 25 - Got a fuel pressure test gauge and got the following results after installing a new fuel filter:
1. Bled off fuel pressure to connect gauge and after 5 or 6 Key On, engine off cycles the pressure came up to about 38psi and truck started up fine after pressure was at 38 psi. The pressure built up slowly after the bleed off with each ON/Off cycle and that is why it required 5 or 6 cycles to reach 38 psi.
2. Key ON, engine idling maintained 31 psi
3. Key ON, engine revved up slightly maintained about 31 psi and seemed to stay there even with more throttle increase.
4. Key ON, engine idling, disconnected fuel pressure regulator line and pressure increased to about 40 psi and stayed there
5 . Left the gauge connected after turning off engine. Key OFF, engine off, after 1 min fuel pressure increased to 33psi. It is about 90 degrees in the shade here today.
6 Key OFF, engine OFF, after 2 min gauge read 33 psi, after 5 min increased to 34 psi, after 15 min decreased to 33 psi, after 30 min decreased to 29 psi, after 45 min decreased to 26 psi, and after 60 min decreased to 23 psi. The pressure seems to decrease slightly with time which I think is what it is supposed to do. Is the pressure decrease rate too fast or about right?
The truck seems to be running fine and starts up immediately after sitting for a few hours but I am making sure to turn the key on/off for at least one or two cycles to build up fuel pressure and the truck starts every time for the last week. Does it seem like my fuel pump is OK or not? Fuel pressure regulator OK or not? Any other diagnostic tests I should run?
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My 2004 Honda Accord wouldn't start this morning. Immobilization indicator was blinking. After a bit, it started just fine, as the indicator stopped blinking. My thinking at this time was that it had rained torrentially the previous night, maybe some moisture had got into the circuitry and caused a little 'hiccup.' Then, as I drove, about 5 minutes later, the car started trying to stall. The check engine light came on, then the battery light came on and flashed. The engine ran erratically. Both check engine and battery lights started blinking erratically. At one point the dash beeped at me, like the warning sound it makes when the emergency brake is on while the car is moving. This got worse as I drove. I pulled over to the nearest shop. 2 hours of looking at the car, they said the camshaft sensor and the alternator needed to be replaced. .
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I have a 1994 Toyota Corolla, automatic transmission. I went to start it this afternoon and it made a clicking sound a few times then went completely dead. When I jumped it, the dashboard panels, radio, lights, doors, etc. began to work, but it still would not start. I have replaced the alternator about 1.5 yrs ago and had the battery checked then too (it was fine then). I have had this problem before about a year ago, but it did start when jumped. I didn't leave my lights on or any doors open, so I don't think I drained the battery.
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Ok so i bought a 1994 celica GT from a police auction the other week and it wouldn't start so we went ahead and put a new fuel pump in it then we put new spark plugs in it. When removing the spark plugs i saw there was oil on them. My friend suggest we do a motor swap cause he thinks its a blown head gasket. Could this be an easy fix or should i go through with the swap?
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