The problem I have is when it is cold out under 40 degrees, my car starts rough and idles rough until it gets to temperature. My research has concluded it may be cold start. Does this sound right?
View 5 RepliesWe have a Ford Focus wagon that idles rough once the engine starts coming up to temperature. When you first start the car it's fine. For example, today I started the car, drove it up the road to the store and it was fine, but upon returning to my driveway just a few minutes later, as the engine temperature was just starting to come up, it started idling really rough. The idle is so rough it sounds like it's on the verge of stalling, but it never has actually stalled. An oxygen sensor has been replaced and it was good for a while, but now the problem is back. The check engine light is on as well.
View 2 Replies1991 Regal, 3800 v6.
So here's an interesting observation. When i turn the ignition to ON, I hear no sound nor feel any vibration from the fuel pump. Is there any scenario where a fuel pump fails to prime yet kicks into gear after a start? So, I've got rough idles and misfires on cold starts. Before I start replacing parts my diagnostic plans is as follows:
Remove and inspect spark plugs.
Inspect and test starter coil/distributor (still have to research how to do this)
Test resistance on fuel injectors.
Test pressure drop on fuel rails.
Test compression for possible small head leak.
I'm wondering, if I do have a tiny head leak that is letting in a drip or two of coolant after hours of the engine sitting, will I be able to see this on the gauge doing a compression test? I've never done one before and still need to buy a gauge, but maybe I'm better off just doing the other tests and if they all check out I can be certain it is a minor head leak.
My assumption is that I have a leaking injector; just trying to do things the proper way.
02 Passat 4Motion with the 3.0L V6. I just had the car at the dealer 2 weeks ago for the 50K service and to have the temperature gauge fixed. Otherwise, the car was running just fine. At the service, they replaced the water temp sensor, performed a fuel injector service and radiator flush (both recommended).
Now two weeks later, her car rough idles, dies and has to be towed to the same dealership. They first diagnose fouled plugs which they replace gratis. They then tell me the plugs fouled because the ignition coil and wires have gone bad and need to be replaced. They want to do an additional injector/intake cleaning service. They are offering to discount the services slightly. I'm still going to be out another $850.
I called Volkswagen Customer Service and they confirmed that the ignition coils were not covered under the recall.
Something sounds "off" to me. The car was running fine before the initial service. Was the dealer just being "nice" in comparing the plug replacement or did he think that they initial fuel injector service may have fouled the plugs? I don't really want to pay 2x for the same service and now the coil/wire replacement.
I have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.
The car was not running when i got it, i replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.
Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.
The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body.
Just recently my Prius Taxi with 340,000+Km has developed a little problem,it starts fine but after 20-30 seconds it begins to feel like it's not running properly on all four cylinders,if i go to the exhaust pipe it seems like it's spluttering slightly.
Yesterday I changed the plugs,checked air filter and all connections,everything fine, when I accelerate it feels hesitant but after the car gets up to temp it seems to go away,it only happens when i start it first thing or if it's been left for a few hours, it's never had the throttle body cleaned and I'm wondering if what I'm describing is a symptom of this?
My 94 850 turbo wagon starts rough and idles very high. the rpms dont come down. After turning car off, wont restart again unless I let in sit for a while.
View 11 RepliesI just got a 4.6 4WD Explorer in for rough running. It had timing chain noise and some odd codes for primary coil H codes along with cylinder 8 misfire.
I replaced the coil to get rid of the "H" code and it was fine. Still misfires on 8, and I really don't care because it's coincidence that the timing could be affecting it or perhaps.... bent valves!
The vehicle starts and idles a bit rough. Can't go very fast, and of course I know I should run it as little as possible!
Here is the deal, how should I present this to the customer? Should I let him know that some valves could be bent after replacing the chain (and all associated parts) and that it could still be effed? Or will I be fine after replacing? Pretty much, where they had a tensioner failure/guide breakage and valves bent too?
I just replaced the water pump and put it all back together, now it won't run well enough to drive. Checked vacuum system, all sensor connections, hoses, gas cap, changed fuel filter, I can hear the fuel pump kick in, reset system with battery disconnected and have looked at everything I can think of so far.
Now - starts fine, idles about 10 seconds and then begins to idle rough and dies. If I use the throttle I can often keep the idle up, but then backfires or acts like no fuel and again dies. Used fuel cleaner and made sure there was plenty fuel in tank.
I am looking at replacing sensors at this point but which one first?? They get a bit expensive real quick.
This is a great little truck we only use occasionally. It has 145,000 miles and runs great, but the a/c temperature is very sporadic, and this week it is 100 degrees! One day it will work fine, and the next day it will only blow hot air. Sometimes the air starts out cold, but after 5 min of driving, it turns hot. I have had the freon checked and my mechanic said part of the compressor (forget what he called it) was probably getting stuck at times, and he would have to pull it all out and possibly replace...
View 3 RepliesThe car idles rough on cold mornings but runs fine. It will stall while idling but starts back easily. I am getting a 1131 and a 1151 code with my scanner along with 0300 and lean bank 1 codes. I started having these problems after I had to remove the upper intake to replace coil packs. I was getting egr code and had an egr port completely block off but cleaned that out and no longer get the egr codes. Spraying carb cleaner around the engine I get a very slight bump in rpm around a couple of the intake ports could that be my problem or should I look deeper?
View 5 RepliesI recently replaced the plugs cuz I had a rough idle all the time. During plug change when I discovered they had already been changed I found one that had a burned off electrode. Does this mean a lean condition exists?
After plug change it runs smoothly but only after 10 min warmup in our canadian winters. I can drive it when its not warm but seems to have less than full power and idles very badly after driving w/o proper warmup.
Next I changed fuel filter and checked fpdm, it was a little rusty but not bad so i just mounted it 1/4 off steel to prevent further rusting.
Since then I have installed a programmer [diablosport] but found no codes since i had battery disconnected for filter change. no new codes in last few weeks since.
So do I have a lean running cylinder causing this poor cold idle or a rich cylinder? It must be a clogged or dripping fuel injector right?
Need this software that would be willing to run a diagnostic on my truck? I replaced all the glow plugs a year ago and the relay a month ago. It idles really rough when it's cold (first start of the day with outside temps even at 90 degrees). It has no power for about 10 minutes. Sounds like an old John Deere 2 cylinder tractor for a few minutes. I have 370K miles on it. After it warms up it runs good. Plugging it in doesn't make a difference. There is no smoke while it is warming up. I have noticed when I accelerate quickly, it blows black smoke (not heavy but when following it you see and smell it).
View 4 RepliesI have a huge problem. My 94 ranger 2.3L 5 speed manual transmission, has problems with idoling while it's cold, has no power going uphill and stalls when I slow down to stop. This is all after putting a new motor in. The old one was running ok with 310,000 but lagging bad. I figured with the driving I do, a new motor wouldn't be a bad thing. Boy, was I wrong. It has been a nightmare. But once the truck is up to operating temperature, it runs so smooth you wouldn't think there was a problem. But let it cool off, restart, and boom! There it is. We have changed so many parts and sensors with absolutely no change to the original problem. It's very frustrating. I just can't let this problem win. I will figure it out.
View 13 RepliesI am intrigued by this engine and it's cold start issues so I am trying things out to see what works. If I plug it in it starts like summertime. If it's as cold as 30* out I run the glow plugs for two minutes and it starts without much effort and once running purrs like a kitten, no chug a lug, no romping, little smoke. When it gets down into the 20's I run the glow plugs for two two minute cycles, a little more cranking time but starts same as above. Down to 18* and I cycle the glow plugs twice for two minutes and it cranks, tries to start but won't. Key off, back on for two more minutes and it starts right up like a warm summer day. It hasn't been colder than 18* here this year so this is the end of my report for now. I haven't taken the time to check the glow plugs which is on my list but this summer it'll get done.
View 14 RepliesOwner of a 2014 350 fsport here.... 15,000 miles ... I noticed on cold starts a slightly rough idle since its gotten colder here recently. After starting the car it'll start fine and everything but then as its warming up the needle sometimes jumps 75-100 rpm. its like someone tapped their foot on the accelerator and let off. no lights or anything and the car runs fine.
Heres the catch... i have a joe z catback and joe z intake with fsport filter, could this possibly be why? because of the airflow ? i also have been using Lucas fuel injector cleaner and lubricant.
Also when i put the car in park after driving, i notice the needle isn't steady, it does move a little maybe 20-50rpm, not sure if this is normal or not because i never really paid attention until now.
I have an issue with my 7.3.... the truck will not start if it sits overnight without being plugged in, even in 65 degree weather. It starts and runs with a rough idle for about 10 seconds after its been plugged in for an hour, after the rough idle is gone it runs great .. it will Stat back up as long as the truck is warm (70+).... I've replaced the batteries, glow plugs, starter (it was going bad) and fuel filter. .. also replaced the gpr today. ....
View 14 RepliesIdles really high at startup until the engine gets to normal operating temperature and falls back to normal. Takes 10-15 minutes. I recently de-greased the engine and think I may have fouled a sensor...though the check engine light is NOT on. I'm afraid if I keep this the way it is it will cause damage to the engine.
View 2 RepliesThis all started out when I wanted to change my original plugs that had 200k miles on them. I have that part done now and new wires. Then it wouldn't start without me starting it while holding the gas pedal down. Then I would have to press the pedal down or it would die.
I may need to clean the throttle body. I bought some Valvoline Throttle Body Cleaner and cleaned the throttle body it was black inside and now it's nice and clean. After that the car starts up fine except on the first try. It starts up and idles at around 2,000 rpms. When I press the brake it drops to 1,000, then back up to 2,000. The strangest part is I have no acceleration power now. I can press the pedal to the floor and it will only go to 3,000 rpms. It will slowly get faster as I drive but there's no immediate response when I press the pedal down.
Why would cleaning the throttle body do this? It throws a code when I first start it and it dies the P1110 code but I think that is because the rpms are at 600 when it catches it. No misfire codes or anything, so I think the plugs and wires are working. Just the faster than normal idle now and no power when I press the pedal down.
Would the throttle body cleaner hurt the throttle position sensor?
I have a 99 jimmy replaced rotary button, cap, plugs, wires. The truck doesn't seem to run right. It idles fine but when in load it starts to sputter a bit. Going down the road between 2000 and 2500 rpms the tach jumps a bit. Now if I put it to the floor the truck runs out fine.
View 3 Replies2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GT. It's got a NA SII 3800 3.8L engine. So far we have put $337 into trying to fix it. What happens is:
Go to start it.
Turn key to On.
Turn key to start.
It either cranks over a bunch of times and never starts or it starts and dies or it starts and is fine. Every time it wont start after cranking a bunch you give it GAS and it revs up real good and starts fine. Idles at around 1200 RPM. This poor car. There has never been anything wrong with it. Replaced the catalic convertor once and the battery once. We took it in and they replaced the Cam sensor and the Crank sensor to try and fix it because they said the fuel pump registered fine.