I have a 1995 buick roadmaster with 308,000 miles. The car quits intermittently but starts up immediately thereafter. Seems like an electrical issue but it doesn't act like the distributor is malfunctioning or fuel stoppage since it doesn't shudder prior to quitting. I have had the car since new, we love it and would like to keep it.
View 6 RepliesMy car steering wheel is hard to turn now and i don't know why it's doing this.
View 4 RepliesI have just had a 1956 Buick steering unit rebuilt to correct a seal leak. After installation,when the car is started, the steering wheel turns itself to the left. This occurs without moving the car. It seems that this has something to do with the power steering system, which worked fine before we had the steering unit rebuilt. How to solve this problem?
View 2 RepliesMost cars have either an idiot light or a volt meter. This 1995 Buick Park Avenue has both in the same pod. The customer complains that the red light comes on intermittently, but the voltage continues to read just above 13 volts. Sometimes it's dim or flickering, others it's bright. It seems to be more prevalent when the headlights are off, rather than when it is under a heavier load with them or the A/C on. I have not had an opportunity to see the car. It has not failed to start.
View 4 RepliesI'm driving a 95 buick lesabre, good condition, clean, 130k miles on it. 2 months ago the car started stalling and then it died. Took it to a shop, replaced all original fuel pump and fuel lines. Repeat this about 3 more times, all in all, the fuel pump, fuel lines, map sensor, mass airflow sensor have been replaced. Yesterday, the same thing happened. Took it to a different mechanic, he says he drove it for two days and couldn't find anything wrong with it. Is there anything specific in a 95 lesabre that could be causing this? It drives fine for a while, and then out of nowhere it starts to stall, then the car dies and check engine light comes on. Gas is kept above half a tank due to winter conditions and the fact that it's an old car.
View 8 RepliesMy 1995 LeSabre (3800 v6, 62K miles) has a stalling problem, no engine power, but still has electric. It happens randomly and intermittently. Most times it will restart but has been increasingly difficult to restart. The only indicator prior to stalling is the speedometer "surges" and then the loss of power. Dash lights come on (oil, voltage, CEL). Sometimes the CEL will flash in time with a fast clicking that I believe comes from the fuel pump relay under the right side of the dash. Until this clicking stops the engine will not restart. I have replaced ignition control module, and then the crank and cam sensors. Replaced PCM with rebuilt and it was worse (defective?) and put the old one back in. Mechanic can't find any codes to determine what is causing it to stall, except possibly PCM is bad.
View 11 RepliesDriving this 1996 Buick Century limited,4 cylinder car normally, the car will just stop running without any warning, nor rhyme nor reason. Most of the time this has occured, a tow truck has been called, but prior to towing, the car started normally and ran without problems for quite a while. The car has been in the chevrolet garage multiple times, at least over nine, for this problem, but will never show up for the mechanic. There is no specific driving pattern to cause this to occur: it dies in normal driving on the street, starting from a stop, in parking lots,
View 9 Replies2000 Buick 3.8. stop for gas, red light, etc. engine quits. 1st repair shop said fuel pump bad. Replace filter pressure okay. car starts later, quits multiple times. 2nd repair shop, car quits while there. Mechanic comes out with tester and says "no spark", ignition module bad, also spark plug harness bad. Replace just wires, and car runs for 9 months, no trouble. Now car quits while driving, no sputtering, just quits! Wait awhile, car starts, but 30 miles later, quits. Seems that hot weather has something to do with it, although it quit on a cold rainy fall day and had a hard time starting again. It did start and ran for 300 miles before acting up.
View 4 RepliesCar:2000 Buick Regal54,000 miles3.8 V6, Vin K
Problem:The engine quits running. Idle, part throttle, moving, stopped, open or closed loop doesn't matter. Sometimes it will re-fire immediately, other times it may take a dozen or more attempts.
There is no MIL, and my TECH 2 is finding no issues.
My 87 lesabre has run great for many years, but lately, it has been quitting on me. It happens randomly, usually while driving slower or idling. It just suddenly quits almost as if it's out of gas. It usually starts right back up, sometimes have to wait 20-30 seconds. It runs fine, not sluggish or anything, up until it quits. Had a couple mechanics look at it, when I told one about it he thought for sure it was going to be the fuel injectors but they all checked out fine.
View 4 RepliesI come over from the old school forum (48-60) with a question about a new to me 1999 F150 XLT 5.4L, 4x4, Auto. Truck has ran awesome for a couple of days. Truck has in excess of 410,000 miles but don't let that mislead. I believe the engine has been replaced sometime along the way. Yesterday I was driving and it just stumbled and stopped. After sitting for 5 minutes it started again, stumbled and stopped.
Today I checked the following:
- Fuel pump/relay - both work
- Dropped gas tank and replaced fuel pump strainer and fuel filter
- Fuel pressure at rail remains steady
- No codes present and no SES/CEL on.
Could this be a plugged EGR valve or IAC valve? I have had similar issues on Tauruses but it always threw a code when it did. Could this indicate a cat issue?
The 1997 Saturn SC2 is new to me. It was delivered to my home after purchase and died. The car had been sitting for a while and was suggested by previous owner that it was the battery. After having charged the battery, she ran for about 5 mins and stopped. I was also informed that the fuel line sometimes would disconnect, but that is not the case now.
View 1 RepliesI've had this intermittent issue for a while where the car won't start properly. What seems to happen to me is that it starts properly, but then immediately stalls. Normally during a start it will start at about 1200rpm then quickly idle back to under 1000 and then slowly reduce some more. Now at about the same time as I would expect it to idle back to 1000rpm it stalls. After this happens, it seems like I can keep reproducing the failed start over and over again if I try to start the car again. If I wait 30 seconds or so and then try to start it, it usually works.
On two or three occasions I got a warning on the dash about faulty steering lock. Checking in VAG the only errors shown are related to those, no other codes. This has happened many times over the course of perhaps two months. It's been colder during this period, but generally it seems the error happens more often when its a little warmer weather and not really cold. Lately I've been inserting the key part way, waiting a few instants for things to initialize and then starting and it seems to work every time.
I have a 1995 volvo 850 t5. Basically, the engine is making a clicking sound. Immediately on start up, which continues when i drive. In saying that, I've been only doing 5 minute drives so perhaps its not running long enough to go away.
So today, i started it. Car starts ticking. The ticking is like 3 or 4 seconds apart between clicks, and the idle seems to change slightly each time it clicks.
I checked the oil and it was a little low. So i put 2 litres in, and then i ran the car (idling) to see if it would go away. Just for a few minutes. It did seem to go away, but then i gave it a little rev and it came back.
So in summary, clicks on start, idle and while driving. Idle changes slightly between clicks. And there is a few seconds between clicks.
Just checked it again. If i leave it idling the click stops but as soon as there are more revs, it comes back. And the noise is almost like the click of a switch (like when your kettle finishes boiling and the switch flicks off. Not the best comparison but similar).
My 4Runner has begun hesitating sometimes during acceleration AND immediately after acceleration. It feels like it is "chugging." This usually also happens in the low end of gears (it is a manual 5 speed). I do not believe it is the transmission as I do not notice it slipping at all. It has been 90,000 since the timing belt was changed, which I plan to do soon. Could it be an injector issue? Maybe a cylinder is not firing? The RPMs do not seem to change much when this occurs.
View 6 RepliesI have a V6 with 162,000 miles. A year ago in the early spring we replaced the alternator, starter, fuel pump, lines, filter, dropped and cleaned the tank, fuel coils, repaired / replaced almost all injectors, spark plugs.Since April of last year, every few months my Car would have a hiccup of that it starts fine but would immediately die out. It would take anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes of trying to get it to start again. Other than that it would run beautifully. This week, while on the road it would jolt and die out. It happened 3 times. Yesterday morning it would once again crank fine and immediately die out. It will no longer keep running. We have not been able to keep my car started since then.
View 14 RepliesWhen I parked this car 2 months ago it ran fine. Went to start it up and it starts and shuts down. I do not think its the security issue. Both keys do the same thing.
Battery is new recently. There are no MIL lights working on the dash except the battery light. The actual dash lights will not come on. Doors will unlock but not lock. My VAG tester will not communicate with the ECU.
I have checked all of the fuses multiple times. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when the key is turned on. It appears that there is an electrical issue. I took the connections off of the ecu, waited a bit, check for cleanliness and reinstalled also.
I've tried searching the threads to see if there is a similar problem, but it appears I have not found anything like this.
View 8 RepliesI recently bought a 2004 V10 TDI. When it is quite cold outside, below -15C my Treg will not start, it starts sometimes but will stall immediately. I cannot get it started unless I wait a few days until it is warmer out. When I start it, I wait for the glow plug light to go out but it only takes less than a second, is that normal? I am thinking its the diesel gelling and I need to add an additive to it possibly, or do I need to replace my glow plugs. If I am persistent, I can sometimes get it going after 10 or 12 attempts but I feel I am going to overheat the starter so I am scared to do that often, once started, it runs fine but has tons of CEL codes which are all glow plug errors, I will clear them off, and they will not return.
View 2 RepliesI'm going to preface this by saying I've already had the immobilizer problem and I know about the light on the dash of the car + key flashing when you try to start the car without the immobilizer chip in the key fob.
My car has been running completely fine, I go out to start it, it fires up then immediately dies. If I hit the throttle while it starts up it will rev up but still dies even if I hold the throttle all the way open. After doing some research I was pointed to crank position sensor. Bought a new one, didn't change anything.
The strange thing about it is ever once in a while I can get it to start up and then it will run for as long as I let it, so its obviously getting air, fuel, and spark. I have also disconnected the battery and left it for a few hours, didn't work either.
1999 4-runner 6-cylinder. starts and then immediately dies.
View 2 Replies