Cavalier - Chevrolet :: Decreasing Output From AC Or Heater During Long Drive
May 6, 2014
My 2000 Chevy Cavalier LS has approximately 216,000 miles on it. I've recently noticed on long drives that the air conditioner will run fine for the first few hours, but then the amount of air begins to decrease, until the output from the "high" setting acts like I have it set on "low", and then almost quits altogether. What little air is coming out is still cool, so it's not a problem with the freon. If I shut off the a/c for awhile, everything works fine again upon restart, but then the same problem occurs. I have the same problem when using the heater, so I think it's related to the blower motor, resistor, fuse, etc., but don't know where to start troubleshooting first.
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My future mother-in-law has a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. Last night night when she tried to put it in gear, the car would not go in reverse or drive. She recently had a tune-up on her car a month ago and everything seemed to be working fine. I think the transmission is dead. Does that sound right?
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1992 Chevy Cavalier, about 120,000 miles. A few months ago my car has started to rumble and vibrate while idling in drive. It only occurs while I'm in drive and completely stopped. If I change to neutral or park, it immediately goes away. Also, if I'm in drive, keep my foot on the brake and give it a little gas, the vibration goes away. I've changed the spark plugs, had the throttle body cleaned (not very thoroughly) and my mechanic said my engine mounts look fine and to not worry too much about it. Is this a problem I can ignore as an inconvenience or should I put more effort into getting this fixed?
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I have had a 2000 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 liter 4 cyl Automatic for about 5 or 6 years now. I have noticed the whole time I have owned it that when I start the car and shift from Park to Drive I hear a clunk and the with the hood open the engine pivots back and forth one time more than it is supposed to. This only happens from park to drive, it does not do this from park to any other gears, and once the car is in drive everything is normal. The car has no shifting problems at all, no slips or clunking while driving or hitting the gas real fast on take off.
I changed the all three mounts on the car yesterday. Upper engine mount (still in decent shape), lower dogbone (tore to hell), and Transmission mount (decent). I really haven't noticed it get any worse over the years I just know its not right. I have never changed the fluid or the filter since I owned the car, and most likely it has never been changed in the cars life. Could a dirty filter, and dirty fluid cause this problem? Or could the linkage need adjusted or replaced?
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I have been driving a 2003 Chevrolet cavalier and the automatic shift is stuck and can only shift to neutral and drive since Thursday morning. It wont go up to reverse and parking and down to the other 3 shifts.
This first happened last April but somehow with the right grip or pressure was able to get back to all the other shifts. Since then it happened 2-3 times as I can remember and now could be getting worse.
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I have a 2002 Avalanche 2500 4w drive with the 8.1L engine. The problem is that it is leaking oil, but only after a long drive. Plus the leak happens like a spray after the car has been sitting for more than 20 minutes. The oil is leaking from IN FRONT of the driver's side front tire and I can't see any oil up on the car. The oil leak only leaks for a short time and then stops until the next long drive. The truck has 118,000 miles.
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I have a 2009 Chevy Impala. It has 28,000 miles and since November my gas mileage averages between 20-24. I took the car to the dealership and they say nothing is wrong. This car was titled in Hawaii. I live in Wisconsin. Could the colder weather have something to do with the mileage or what else could it be?
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I cant find my original post but I am reporting back on a low heat output issue. Not the climate door. It was the heater core clogging up. Instead of replacing, this is what I did. Purchased a "drill pump" and some clear hose and some CLR. Cut both the heater hoses,taking consideration of where best to install "T" connectors.
While hoses disconnected,filled heater core with CLR(as much as I could get in it). Hooked clear hose,drill pump configuration,on to the heater hoses. Ran drill pump in both directions for several minutes and stopping and letting it sit for a few minutes.
About 1 hour all together. Pieces of debris came out of the heater core and I could see it through the clear hose. Flushed the heater core out. Installed "T" connectors and it is heating very well now.
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My front diff appears to be leaking from the drive shaft output. it's not enough to leave drips but the skid plates are oily. Having the dealer look next week. 60k on a 2011 460.
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I've got a 2004 Cavalier and when the heater is turned on it makes a clicking noise (sounds like someone on a snare drum playing over and over again) You can feel it if you touch the bottom of the Heater/AC module on the passenger side of the car above your feet. It stops when you turn the heater control to the recirculation position.
My guess is it's the recirculation door actuator motor, but I can't find it through NAPA or any automotive parts online sites, what the Chevy part number is for this, and/or a parts blowup of the HVAC module? Also, the factory service manual I've got says that the entire HVAC unit needs to be drained of 134 and removed from the vehicle to replace this actuator, does it can be done without removing the entire unit? From the few pictures it shows of where the actuator is, that part appears to be near the top (that's why I'd like to see a parts blowup if possible).
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I just purchased a F250 Gasser with the 6.2. I made sure to get it with the 4.30 rear to babl to tow a little better when i upsize the tires a little. Where I can find the drive output ratio from the transmission?
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My car dies when I come to a stop unless I gently press on the gas pedal while holding done the brake. What can cause this?
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I have a 02 cavalier 2.2 it just started leAking coolant when in a drive thru. Steam started coming up from hood. When I looked under the hood the expansion tank was hissing and it looked like the antifreeze was coming out of the overflow tube at the top of the tank. What should I do? It is sitting still at the parking lot
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Car won't start after filling up with gas. I have tried a new fuel filter, new gas tank cap, checked for pressure on fuel pump. We have gottenit to start (but barely) when either hit gas tank with hammer or shake the back of the car, otherwise you have to set and wait 15-30 minutes before it will start and when it does it smells very weird (like it's flooded but an extra strange smell with it). I have seen a similar posting on here and someone suggested it might be a purge value problem. In talking with someone at auto store they didn't think this was the issue. I do have my check engine light on all the time and when checked the code , it said oxygen sensor. My two other Cavaliers have also had the oxygen sensor problem but it never did this with that code.
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Had a directional bulb go out recently and replaced it without any problem. About 3 days ago it went again, I bought a 2 pack of bulbs - replaced it and drove on. Almost instantly right after I turned and signaled the right directional bulb blew again, I grabbed the extra bulb put it into plug and started car - first right turn with directional bulb blows again. I'm at a loss as to where this can be happening. Is this in the steering column or elsewhere, where do I even begin to look.
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My daughter says that the AC on her 2001 Chevy Cavalier cuts off when she is idling.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. I am having some issues with it.
When it first starts it idles really hard. The RPMs are up and if will try to accelerate without hitting the gas. This stops after the first minute.
The second part is that when stopped, but in drive, it idles hard. It does it though when the AC is turned off. You can see the RPM gauge go above and below the normal 500 RPM. If you turn the AC on then it levels out. It will occasionally idle hard with the AC on, but rarely and not as much.
The car drives well and is not overheating.
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The cold air box is a black plastic box that sits forward of the engine/valve cover. It connects via black plastic tube to the air filter box on one end and to the engine on the other. I took it off it. 'Lo and behold it was full of oil.
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2003 Cavalier auto 116K miles - Car is sputtering and stalling at stoplights with a/c on. What can I check?
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So I'm driving to work this morning, 35 miles one way, and I get to my destination, or almost. 1999 Cavalier, automatic transmission, 215,000 miles.
As I get to the red light where I need to turn, it seemed as if it was not upshifting on its own. It is an automatic. I made the turn, then made another turn and as I pressed the gas, it seemed to do the same, not wanting to shift into second.
As I turned to go up to the second level of the parking lot, it gave up about 3/4 of the way up to level 2. Pressing the gas just revved the engine. I tried switching into 1, 2, back to D, even to R, but nothing worked. It is like it just gave up and decided the only thing that would work is neutral.
When I switch into gear normally, you hear that slight thud as it falls into gear, but when I try it now, nothing happens.
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I have a 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier. I've been getting a pulsing vibration which feels like the left front. It starts at about 40mph and gets worse the faster I go. The vibration completely goes away with the slightest left turn on the freeway. It vibrates on acceleration and deceleration, in neutral and in gear (5spd manual). I've currently replaced the front struts, strut mounts, pads and rotors, left front wheel bearing, tie rod ends, had the front end aligned and the tires balanced.
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