Chevrolet - 1500 :: 2008 - High Top Van Sunroof Leaking
Mar 9, 2015
I have a 2008 Chevy Express Explorer conversion van with a high top. We purchased the van used in great condition in 2011. The sunroof leaks. It always has. I first called the Explorer company to ask what we could do. They said we needed to replace the seal. We ordered one from them and had it replaced. I was desperate to have it stop leaking that I had my husband put clear caulk to try and seal it up.
I am at the point of putting a tarp inside to keep my kids (4) car seats dry. The water has already damaged so much. Even the wood colored plastic now has a white haze (would like to know how to fix that if possible). Most of the water soaks in the ceiling around the sunroof and spreads out and down to the windows and in the upper cabinets. Is there anyway to fix this without having to spend more than we owe on it.
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I have water leaking from bottom of motor it's look like coming from oil pan its chevy1500 1999 4/4with a v6 motor but not for sure looked at oil no water in oil it's really comes out when motor is running.
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My question is what could cause a high idle?I have a 95 Chevy pickup 4x4 with a 5.7... Recently the lower radiator hose fell came off the radiator, dumping the liquids all over the street. The motor shut down, and every time we went to start it there would be a loud whining/spinning noise. We thought that the motor seized, so we pulled the plugs, turned the motor by the crank bolt.Turned out that the starter went bad, the spindle and bendex werent catching on the flywheel.
After examining the flywheel teeth, and gapping the plugs to the recommended manufacture gap, (they werent when we pulled them), we got a new starter installed. It started right up! But it ran at a high idle, around 1500-2000 RPM. I did not have a chance to really let it warm up (it was cold and raining). Now there is a gray flexhose that is running from the air filter housing down to the exhaust manifold. If i remember correctly, it was not seated very well when I took it off. Could it be causing too much of a vacuum?
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This truck is from Canada. I need to convert speedometer cluster from kilometers per hour to miles per hour. The kilometers are on top and miles per hour under them. Want to convert. I have viewed kits to change the face. They have the miles per hour on top.
BUT! Does the tranny need to be re calibrated?
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So I found out this afternoon that I have a leaking sunroof. Water has been draining into the rear driver's side passenger area and has soaked my carpet under my seat. And had standing water under my rear seat in the tray next to the fuel pump access.
I found that the drain tubes can become clogged allowing for water to spill over or seep out. And sending some compressed air up the tube will clear it. But I do not know where the tube exits.
I unfortunately cannot pull the interior apart the weekend because I have drill. So it will have to wait until next weekend to gut her again. I will also pull the headliner to check the condition of the tube.
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My plan to clean the fuel injectors on my 2008 Silverado LS 4.8L V8 came to an abrupt halt when I was unable to disable the fuel pump relay because it is missing from the spot where it should be located according to the schematic in the owner's manual. Would removing the "fuel system control module" (fuse #21) instead of the fuel pump relay work?
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Maybe a week or so ago my F's sunroof at high speeds (65-80) has started rattling. Sounds like there is something loose, and it is clanking on another part. I will be taking it to a dealership or auto shop to have it repaired, or fixing it myself if it is something minor. And its not just a one off rattle, it is constant when at those speeds. Had a two hour drive yesterday and it was driving me crazy.
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Usually after I run the car in manual/sport mode, I begin to hear a high-pitched 'hissing/whistling' noise coming from the engine. It sounds like a vacuum leak. It is audible while driving with the windows down.
I am having problems pin pointing the source, but it sounds like its coming from the center block. What is the right direction to the leak? It starts exactly at 1500 and cuts off at 2200 rpm (while in gear). 1500 to 3000 rpm while in park..
I have a Takeda intake installed and I re-tighten the fittings.
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I have a 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer. I have had 4 of these vehicles and have been very pleased. This latest one has 61000 miles and occasionally has a very strange vibration at speeds above 60 mph. It only happens occasionally and most often occurs at these higher speeds and worsens with increased speed (of 70-73 mph). The vibration is so alarming, that I will press my brakes to slow down, because it feels like the vehicle is starting to lose control. The problem is that when I press the brakes, the vibration intensifies about 3-4 fold! It feel as if the wheels are going to come off. It's a very frightening feeling. I have taken it to the shop and no one seems to know what it is. The tires are fine. Brakes are fine. Interestingly enough, if I lower the speed to 50-55 mph, the vibration lessens and eventually completely goes away.
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I have a 2004 with the 4.6l. The high pressure hose is leaking from rust. From other posts I have read, it looks like I should rent a puller and remove the pulley first, and then I'll have access to where the hose connects to the pump.
Question: The leak occurred while driving home from vacation today. Went we stopped for gas, we noticed a shutter in the steering. I added about a 1/2 quart to the reservoir - there was still some fluid but foamy. I made it home, and I when I checked again the reservoir was empty.
Should I go ahead and replace the pump while I am at it? I wondering it if could have gotten damaged from low fluid. The truck has 190k so it's not like the pump owes me anything. Will it make any of the repair easier to toss out the pump too?
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I love my Elantra Limited! Put almost 7k on her already. I did notice something about the sunroof recently though. Recently, I noticed it isn't flush with the roof. It sticks up a little in the rear.
Also, I was washing my car today, and noticed that the "drip tray" (I believe it's called, the plastic around the seam of the sunroof interior), had some water in it. It seems a little water got through the area where it's sticking up.
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So I bought my 03 golf 2.slow about 10 years ago used and it came with a moonroof... not a sunroof. I never really thought about it and just assumed it was a option from the factory but the seals have been leaking lately and I was looking for a replacement seal and could not find anything only sunroof parts. Is this an aftermarket moonroof where they cut a hole in the roof and added this?..I really hope not. Or did someone take the sunroof assembly out and put this in its place.
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I bought my RS a little more than a month ago. Low and behold about two weeks later my drivers side footwell and behind the drivers seat collected about 2 inches of rain water.
I have searched far and wide and perhaps I'm missing something...My leak is not in the rear which I have seen plenty of info and a couple awesome DIY's. My leak is coming from the panels by the fuse box and hood release. The original owner had done the service to it where the nipples are cut and drained. When I poured a cup of water in the front left drain in the sunroof water comes out of the nipple as well...
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I have a 97 chevy and the only way to start it is to jump the starter relay, not sure if it is the key switch ot the nuetral saftey switch.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts (sorry, not to up on my car lingo here lol)
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts...
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
I would like to have some knowledge or information in case I have to take it to a mechanic to have it looked at. The last people (Just Breaks) I took it to really tried to screw me over. After they worked on it the Emergency break light was on and his fix was to just "unplug" the sensor. I said Heck no! Fix it! after three bleeds it tripped the sensor off. So I am a bit hesitant to have them looked at after that experience.
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Friday, 4/4/14: I have read many of the posts about this issue on this site. Didn't know this was such a widespread problem until I started doing my internet research today. Obviously there are many of us and this has been going on for a few years with this vehicle. I have had soaked floor boards twice and dealing with my third incident today(4 inches of rain last night). Have an appt with my GMC dealership on Monday. How I start this process with GMC to quickly get their attention. Obviously, I need to contact GMC first so that I can get their standard, worthless answer. But I've read I need to hire a "lemon law attorney", post my dissatisfaction on social media, contact the news media, etc. I am 62 yrs old, on disability, can't afford this inconvenience for something GMC should be RECALLING and fixing. Plus I have a small garage and this monster vehicle will not fit in it (didn't know that until after I bought it).
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I've noticed that there is a wet ring and i noticed a drip of water as i opened the sunshade of the sunroof???
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Infrequently (once every couple weeks) my 2002 Suburban won't start. The starter seems to work properly as the engine tries to turn over and even seems to initially start for a fraction of a second but then dies. If I wait 10 to 30 minutes it will usually start without a problem. This problem does not seem to be related to outside temp, recent use or car position. After dealing with this occasionally inconvenient problem for months I took the car to a service shop and was told that if they could not reproduce the problem that trying to fix it would be a wild goose chase. When the problem occurred again I took it to another shop who kept the car for 3-4 days but was unable to reproduce the problem.
They suggested that there was a problem with the fuel pump but did not want to replace it unless they were sure that was the problem. I then spoke to the Chevy dealership shop who also said it was most likely the fuel pump. In my frustration dealing with this problem I took the car back to my local shop and ask them to replace the fuel pump ($800). Unfortunately, the intermittent problem has persisted and I'm not sure what to do next. I did have an after market remote ignition added a number of years ago and took it back to them to see if this could be related and they said no way. I have also wondered about the security system being a problem in that my rear hatch cargo door does not lock even though the other doors lock normally.
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Car: 1993 Chevy C 1500 (2WD) manual transmission Background: The car sat unused in a garage for 2 weeks (no problems before this) the first drive after its break, the pickup almost felt like it was slipping and power was not getting to the wheels. The vibrating began the next day. The vibrating is very obvious and unpleasant under acceleration at approximately 2000 RPMs in any gear. Grease was injected via grease zerk into the center carrier bearing area and the vibrating was marginally better. Today the back end of the truck was lifted up and put into gear and brought up to 30 MPH. The pickup was then lowered and a test drive revealed that the vibrating was considerably diminished.
An inspection of the drive shaft reveals:no vibrating in neutral the U-joints are not loose or leaking; the drive shaft has 2 small dents which are countered on the opposite side by weights;the drive shaft will move up and down ~1 inch or less if pushed in bench press fashion near the carrier bearing;the drive shaft does not move in the direction of the length of the vehicle;the drive shaft will rotate freely 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn before it is stopped by the back of the transmission or the rear differential; no mud clods in wheel wells;new tires properly inflated.
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1992 WT pick up 263,000 miles had new head gasket installed valves lapped and tune up it was doing it before and does get better when truck warms up, but still can hesitate at times. When cold you have to feather gas pedal to truck accelerating, you can hear truck motor pop through throttle body but will continue to speed up.
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