Chevrolet - Blazer :: CEL Starts Flashing Sometimes When Driving On Highway
Apr 4, 2013
Okay....I have an 01 blazer 6 cylinder 4.3. For a while it was missing fairly bad until I had the distributor replaced and the problem went away for about 2 months. Now it seems to have the same problem again so I am wondering if that wasn't the real problem. Here is what is going on. The tac needle bounces and it feels like the engine is misfiring. When I am driving on the highway sometimes the CEL starts flashing. Sometimes it stops and sometimes it doesn't. Plus now it feels like when it changes gears it's lurching. It only does that sometimes. The odd part is there seems to be no distinguishable pattern to the lurching. I think the misfire could be just the timing needs to be adjusted.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Blazer LS 4WD 95K miles that had an incident in 2008 where the oil pressure dropped to zero while driving down the highway. I immediately pulled over and had the vehicle towed to a dealership. They pulled the oil pan off and let me know the lower part of the motor was "toast." (crankshaft had turned blue due to heat from no oil.) Mysteriously it has oil pressure now, why that is. It started last time I tried about 4 years ago.
I dearly loved this vehicle. It was first car I bought and paid for myself and I planned on repairing it one day. It's been sitting in My garage for the last 8 years. Recently, my daily driver died and I was faced with repairing the Blazer or buying a new vehicle. Since I don't know how well the Blazer has fared sitting in the garage all these years, I decided repair wasn't worth it at this time for a vehicle I needed to be dependable and I just bought a new vehicle.
So here's the thing. I kept the Blazer really clean. Washed it all the time, no damage, Regular oil changes, the works. It still smells like a new car inside. I really don't want to see it get crushed and I'd like to see it go to a good home. It might need more work than a new motor since it's been sitting so long, but I can't imagine it would be more than someone mechanically inclined could handle. I'd get a new engine, but I don't have the cash and I need the garage space.
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I Have A 2001 Chevy Blazer The 4x4 will not engage. I Press the 4x4 Auto, Hi or Low button on the dash they just keep flashing. you can hear the transfer case engage, but It will not be in 4 wheel drive. I have tried driving around with the light flashing to see if it would engage it did not.
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My 4WD light does not come on but the warning light to service it does which leads me to believe the 2WD is not engaged. I have a 2001 Chevy Blazer. Also the seems to be a "rubbing" noise emanating from the right from while driving.
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Driving down the road, vehicle lost all electrical power and died. There doesn't appear to be any juice at all to start it. The battery is fine (along with the terminals), the starter is okay too (although I don't see why that would affect total electrical flow). There were not any alarms on the vehicle. Is it the fuse box (negative terminal) or possibly the alternator? The alternator had been charging, and the battery showed that it had juice left in it. What would cause the vehicle to just die like that, in the middle of driving it? It's an LS type blazer with a 4.3 L engine.
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Driving home on the high way today the amber PCS light starts flashing for no apparent reason. I had been driving for about 3 hours at high speed and was in the last hour of my return from holidays when it came on.
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My husband has a 2009 Chevy Aveo, he's had several issues lately, split radiator hoses, an oil pan issue and now he says it's decelerating when he's driving on the highway, the engine doesn't rev when he presses the gas pedal, we can't afford a new car but he's afraid to drive an iffy car through the winter on a somewhat long commute?
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97 chev PU 3500 350 5.7 stops and starts while driving. Complete tune up ,Fuel pump ,filter , dist. and rotor.
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I have a 1986 Chevrolet El Camino with a small V-8 engine. The vehicle has 150,000 miles on it. It starts and runs fine. It does not use oil. My problem is the oil pressure. After the car runs for a short time, the oil pressure starts dropping. It will drop all the way to 0 if I let it. I have had the sending unit replaced and it did not work.
I have had two mechanics look at it and they have not been able to solve the problem. One checked it with a mechanical gauge and confirmed the low pressure. He suggested a higher weight oil and an additive. The other mechanic's solution was to raise the idle speed. I have had this vehicle since it was new and always kept the oil changed and all other maintenance done. I would like to keep the vehicle and complete any repairs necessary.
My question: Is the engine repairable economically or does the engine need to be replaced and what is causing this problem.
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I have a '99 Chevy 2500 diesel truck. After driving it at highway speeds for more than 20 minutes and turning it off, it won't restart. The problem seems to be in the battery cable and is definitely heat-related. In cold weather or after a fairly short drive, all it takes is popping the hood to cool off the engine compartment, and waiting. If the engine and/or the weather is too hot, that can take an hour. Then it starts just fine. I've cleaned the terminals and made sure the connections are tight. Two mechanics have looked at it and were stumped.
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My father passed down his 1973 Chevy C-10 pickup truck to me and my family. It's been our 'runner' truck for many years going to the mountains for wood, lumber from the store, garbage and yard debris...etc. Unfortunately, it recently has been starting and warming up just fine, but once it's running as I'm driving away from stops or even holding speed on the highway the power 'fades' from the engine and it lugs like it is in gear, but flooded and lurches as the engine seems to 'catch up'. I have replaced the carb(holly quadrajet), fuel pump, fuel filters, battery, fuel lines, throttle cable, distributor cap (ceramic piece too), alternator and more...we still can't get it figured out. NOW the truck won't start or turn over - have we reached the end of it's life no matter what we do? What is left to replace? I don't think we can afford much more $ to fix it. We also found that somehow water was in the gas tank, which we think was from a kid in the neighborhood messing around. Could that have made a permanent issue?
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'98 Chevy Lumina. Driving at Highway speed, I hear a short rattle. Makes me think of linkages vibrating, from the passenger area. Few minutes later I hear it again. Few minutes later I look down to see me thermostat at 240+. I watch it redline, hold for a few minutes, then the rattle again and my temp goes down to 160 or so. All of this happens at 60 mph, in 45 degree weather.
Rinse, repeat about every 10-15 minutes. I notice that while the engine temp is climbing, I have no hot air from the vents and after the rattle and temp drop I do have hot air. Check the block when I get home and I see the familiar green puddles. So is this: Water pump, the apparent source of the leaks, heater core causing back pressure to leak at the hose, or the ever dreaded head gasket?
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My diesel suburban dies while driving. It starts right back up. I have changed the fuel filter and checked for water in fuel.
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I replaced the oil pressure switch on an '07 Suburban 5.3L because the oil pressure was showing low once the engine warmed up. That did nothing, then I found out about that little filter/screen under the sensor. I intended to remove and clean the filter then reinstall it. While I was pulling it out, I dropped it back behind the engine and couldn't find it. I checked online and found a few people in other forums that said to just remove the screen as a "fix", so I left it out and put the sensor back in, just to get the vehicle drivable. It started right up and ran fine for me, parked it, and a after sitting for a few hours it started popping while driving with the SES light flashing on the drive home.
Code P0300 was set, no cylinder specific misfire codes were present. I checked the misfire data and cylinder #6 showed tens of thousands of misfires, #5 showed several hundred, but I think it was just picking them up from #6 since #5 is right after #6 in the firing order. I disabled each injector with a scan tool, all changed the idle except #6, it did absolutely nothing. #6 fuel injector had good pulse to it, I connected a fuel pressure gauge and put power/ground to injectors #6 and #4, both dropped the same fuel pressure. I did the "cylinder deactivation" test on the scan tool for the four cylinders that have it, they all did the exact same thing - the engine bogged way down for a couple seconds and then died. Is that normal? I can't say I've ever seen a V8 engine die before when running on 6 or 7 cylinders. I checked compression on cylinder #6, it showed very low, almost zero, but I tried it a few times and it would show just a little compression at times... valves staying shut? I'm thinking when I opened the pressure relief valve on the gauge and the piston was near the bottom of the cylinder may be when it showed some compression. I also switched the coil/wire/plug from #6 to other cylinders and the miss did not follow.
Could having that screen out cause this problem? Having the engine die when deactivating the cylinders makes me wonder if maybe it's commanding all four at the same time, although the test shows each cylinder being controlled separately. Using a MODIS, not a TechII. I just got done putting in a new filter/screen to see if it would make any difference, and of course it didn't.
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So I'm having some fun issues with my S10 Blazer right now.
1992 S10 Blazer 4x4 4.3L TBI, 4-speed auto (not electronic)
ABS Codes- 41, 42, 46, 51, 52, 65, 67, 68
The speedometer is jumping around sporadically.
Gas mileage has dropped astoundingly. Tank has gotten me 80 miles!!!! Poorest MPG ever!!
Also, may be related, the tranny has shifted properly for awhile. Slips from 4th to 3rd when letting off the gas at highway speed, and won't detente shift 4th to 3rd even with the gas completely floored. I had the tranny rebuilt in November and had the detente cable replaced a couple of weeks ago. I'm going to make sure it was adjusted correctly today by using the shop manual method: shift the cable back and ratchet forward with throttle or gas pedal.
As far as the ABS and speedometer go, I'm going to test what I can with the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and the DRAC module today. With my WinALDL scan tool, I found it is definitely not a speedometer issue because the speed coming from the computer is fluctuating as well.
There is a test in the shop manual to do, but are there any other tests for the VSS or DRAC module? Reason here is because I replaced the VSS after the tranny rebuild in November. So either the DRAC module is acting up or something in the transfer case is screwed.
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So my 96 blazers cel started flashing and the truck started running extremely rough. I changed the catalytic converter and the o2 sensor that is in the pipe. Made no difference. So I knew my intake manifold gasket has a leak so I changed the gaskets and put knew bolts in. I wasn't thinking and took my distributor out and forgot to mark the timing. So played like heck getting it in timing again. Took a bit cause I didn't realize there was two timing marks. So got it started again was running really rough so thought 180 off turned it nothing. So put it back started it up still running very rough and flashing cel so put a new crank sensor and cam sensor in and a ignition coil in. No dif still. Could it be the egr or ECM?
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Been doing a lot of repair's on our 1994 Chevy blazer. It's a 4.3 v6. We finally got her running and now it seems like it can't take high speeds for very long without over heating and eventually smoking some. Had to bypass heater core, it's clogged. That worked with temp. Also replaced radiator and cap. Replaced both heads, took thermostat out. That worked with temp too. It has a new water pump, new exhaust manifolds, has good spark plugs, oil changed and oil filter. Kind of at a loss.
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The Headlights on my 2001 Chevy Blazer will come on by themselves. The Headlight switch is in the off position. It will Switch between the daytime running lights and nighttime lights. What Is causing This?
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Our 2000 blazer LT 4.3L 4 door 4wd has 190,000 km (about 115,000 miles). 3 Button dash control. Transmission was rebuilt at 100,000 miles (main troque converter spline was shot). The 4 wd will not engage in either hi or lo.
Whether moving or not, press 4 wd lo, light stays on. but nothing happens. I cannot hear the transfer case engaging.
Had a previous problem, (withflashing light): found the vacuum hose under battery case was worn through.
I do have a service engine light on the dash. This may be unrelated, because 4wd stopped working long before service engine light came on. I have changed the Oxygen sensor, but no reset the fault yet. Where to start.
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2002 Chev trailblazer, I have had the throttle body cleaned.... Sometimes after short stops, my vehicle will not crank, some times I have to step on the gas several times and it will finally crank, it sets no codes, no check engine lights come on. If it sits overnight, or for more than 20 minutes it cranks right up.
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Why will the 96 Blazer not start in the rain? Replaced almost all electric components from key cylinder to plugs. It is grounded somewhere when wet.
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