Chevrolet - S-10 :: After Changing Fluid And Filter Won't Shifting All Gear Properly?
Aug 30, 2012
My truck was noticeably sluggish when it shifted into overdrive or would refuse to shift into it all together, so I decided to change the filter and fluid in it. After this maintenance task was done, and I test drove it, I noticed the problem was still there. It also seems now that it has trouble shifting in all gears. When I tried to "manually" shift it through all gears, the transmission would hold it in the previous gear, buck, shake and then shift at a higher RPM.
Not only this, but if I floor the pedal, the truck doesn't want to drop to a lower gear to increase RPM. It only bucks and carries on until I let out of the gas. I also noticed that when I rev the engine in park, the engine does not want to go past 4,000 RPM, and I hear a "grinding" noise at about that range. In the past, I could red-line the engine in park/idle no problem. Does the auto trans have the ability to "hold back" the engine or do I have deeper engine problems?
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I took my 1997 Honda Accord with 97,000 miles to the Honda dealer for a 90,000 mile service and changing of the timing belt. I also had them replace some gaskets, some other belts and the axles as they were not holding fluid. When I got the car back the second time I drove it the check engine light came on and the car will not shift gears properly. When I start the car cold, put it in drive and accelerate the engine revs for a few seconds before the gears will engage.
This continues whenever I stop and accelerate. It also happens whenever the car is ready to switch to a higher gear. The engine revs past 3000 rpm and then will shift a second or two later. The dealer says I need to change a rebuilt transmission. The Bluebook on the car is only about $3000. I'm having difficulty evaluating the best course of action. What is the reliability of a rebuilt transmission?
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My a/c recently is not blowing the same amount of air thru the cabin. Thought it was the cabin air filter because I was recently in some really dusty conditions. The compressor under the hood (and both lines) run very cold, but cabin blows cold air just low volume compared to before my dusty trip. Am told the 2004 does not have a cabin air filter. If that is true how and where is the air filtered or input? Think something is restricting my air flow causing me problems.
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time to change the tranny fluid and filters on my 2010 F250. nothing in my owners manual about this.
All the parts look up places say I need 2 filters, the internal (FT-180) and an external (FT-145).
Problem is that I cannot seem to find the location of the external filter.
Doing some research, it looks like mid-08 the external was eliminated. So, do I have just the internal or do I have the 2?
Regarding the fluid. If I use the Maxlife dex/merc that says meets the LV spec, will that be ok to mix with whatever is in there now? (assuming LV, but I bought used with 145k on it, no idea if its been serviced before and if so, with what).
Going to check with dealer about the hot flush machine, but I really doubt they have one, and I'm kinda concerned about doing a flush at 150K not knowing the history of it.
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Was going to change my transmission fluid and filter today but when I got under the truck to see what tools I needed, I was not sure I could drop the pan enough to get it off.
I have a 2009 V10 4X4 and the exhaust pipe catalytic are running down each side right under where the transmission pan is. It looks like I can get to all the bolts, but because of the catalytic are right under the flange of the pan on each side, the pan will not be able to drop straight down. It looks like it may drop about 3 inches before it hits the catalytic.
Will that be enough to slide the pan forward or maybe tilt it to get it out? Has anyone dropped the pan on their 4X4 with the 5RW100? Just looking to have someone say I can get it out before I try it.
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I have a 2007 Camry V6 XLE with a rebuilt transmission. Since the rebuild I have had an intermittent problem with the transmission not shifting into gear properly from park. When shifting from park into drive, sometimes the transmission will pause, leaving the vehicle in neutral, then slamming into drive.
The transmission was replaced in April of 09 with a leaking transmission seal. Since this time I have has this problem but have not been able to get it to be reproduced for Toyota to observe.
Purchased: February '08 (ish)- New
First Transmission Replacement- April '09- 35980 Miles
Transmission Repair- Internal Temp Sensor/leaking o-ring/Transmission Flush- 9/13/11- 101k miles
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Took my car in for oil/filter change and in some odd circumstance, the young mechanic managed to drain 1 liter of transmission oil out of my car (which I didn't know at the time). After driving for 10 minutes (~5 km), I noticed my reverse gear wasn't shifting properly. After ~30 minutes of driving, my car was smoking from the exhaust pipe (turns out he had overfilled my engine oil too!!). Took the car back in to complain the mechanic supervisor claims my transmission is still fine and all I need to do is refill the lost fluid. Another independent mechanic later tells me my transmission line is likely fried if I had experienced what I did, and those guys should be responsible to replace everything. Since fluids have been topped up, I have no proof of who is right. So my question is, if I only drove for maximum 50 km after my transmission fluid was drained and engine oil overfilled, would that be enough to cause serious damage to the car?
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My son was driving my F250 (big mistake) when as he says he noticed it was leaking transmission fluid. As he was driving it he noticed fluid coming out then it just stopped working.(motor was running but transmission would not pull in any gear) We towed the truck home and let it sit for about a week. Now it will start but when I try to shift it into gear it will run through the gears but there is no action. It will not engage into any gears.
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On my 2003 Chevy Impala with 127,000 miles the car jerks like someone has hit you in the rear end, it usually happens from first to second and is becoming more frequent. A recent transmission service had no effect
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My transmission is not shifting into 3rd gear this is a 350 turbo hydramatic.
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I have a 2007 Chevy Equinox with 104,500 mi. For the past 20,000 miles (2-1/2 yrs.) or so the transmission hesitates when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. When this happens, the engine revs and the wheels lose power for a second or two, and then the shift completes.It happens anywhere from once or twice a week, to once a month.It never produces a "Check Engine Light" nor a "Code" when scoped the same day.It is more of a nuisance, although doing it while pulling into traffic could cause a nasty safety issue.I have had it checked by independent mechanics and a local Chevy Dealership and nobody has an answer.
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I have a 2002 Chevy S10 ZR2 4x4, the transmission will shift through 1st and 2nd gear up to 30mph then will not shift anymore. I have notice if you are easy on the gas you make get lucky to shift into 3rd, but the transmission downshifts to 2nd and only 30mph. I've tried shifting into 3rd manually, if the rpm is high it will not shift into 3rd but if they're low it will shift and if you press the accelerator just a little harder it will shift back to second and speed will drop to 30mph. I've changed transmission fluid and filter. The fluid was dark. I put DEX VI transmission fluid back in. Problem still exist.
I just have so much to explain and not sure how. I bought this truck from a person who bought this truck brand new in 2002. He was always kept the truck maintenance but he said he has never changed the transmission fluid. The truck has 276,000 miles but they are mostly highway miles from driving from NC to DC and back. I can assure you guys this truck hasn't been "dogged". I read one forum and someone said to changed the ignition switch wire harness. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it, but I only seen one person say that and I'm not sure if it works.
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I have a 1997 Chevy Blazer. I have had issues where I could not start my truck and determined it could be the battery. After checking alternator, battery, and starter I was told that all were good. Cleaning terminals did not fix problem. I got a new battery. So I have determined that a power drain is going on somewhere. I have now found that when I shift the transmission from drive to reverse or vice versa that the rear hatch window comes open. As I shift the gear I hear the latch popping behind me. Now I have determined that there is a short somewhere and this could be the cause of my power drain. What I need to know is where to start looking for the default and how to fix my problem.
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There is never an issue when the weather is warm, but as soon as the first cold day in September in New York occurs, we usually have to wait 5 minutes or longer to shift the car into reverse or drive.We have taken the car to several repair shops to deal with this nuisance repair, and no one seems to want to investigate.
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I changed my air filter this morning, and it's a really difficult. Looking for any tips on how to get the two clips back on that are obviously harder to get back on? In the back and front under the heat shield... I just left them hanging there after cutting up my hands trying to reach in there and push each one back in...
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I am about to change the spark plugs on my 2007 Prius with around 120,000 miles on it. While I am doing that I wanted to possibly change the PCV Vavle. Where is it located? Also does my Prius have a fuel filter? I would change it also if it does.
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I'm attempting to change the A/C cabin filter on my 2013 LS. I've followed the instructions explicitly including setting the A/C function to recirculate mode.
However, when I get to removing the filter case I press on the 2 tabs as indicated in the instructions and try as I might the case doesn't move.
Am I missing something? Is there a specific knack to this?
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I need to change the engine and cabin filter on our Camry what brand do you recommend also does it really matter if you purchase the expensive filters vs 5.00 to 10.00 ones? I ask because looks like Toyota OEM filters are normal paper filters.
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OK what is the trick to changing the oil filter on the 6.7 without making a mess. My last truck, which was another brand, if I would let the truck sit for a couple of hours, I could get the filter loose, put a zip lock bag around the filter, & remove the filter without any drips. With the 6.7, even if I let the truck sit overnite, it seems like the oil doesn't drain from above the filter, & as soon as it comes loose my hand gets a bath. Any tricks to changing the oil filter.
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my 2012 nissan sentra when I first start to drive it in the morning when the temperature is below-5C does not "shift" properly. At 40 km/hr it runs at 2400 rpm. I drove it this morning to work and the whole 2 km distance it ran at 2400 rmp. The dealer says that this is normal until the car warms up, which is strange as the car only started doing this in January of this year. Coming home at -6C , I drove it for 3 blocks, it ran at 2400 rpm at 40 km/hr. Stopped the car, shut it off, restarted it and then drove home with the transmission shifting properly and rpm down to about 1500 rpm at 40-50 km/hr. We normally were getting about 400 km per 40 liters of gas, now it is down to 200-300 per 40 liters of gas(for in town driving).
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited. It has about 104,000 miles on it. This past summer I changed the Cabin Air Filter for the first time. I believe I installed it right with the air flow arrows facing down. Ever since changing the cabin air filter my windows fog up easily. The winter time is bad now. The window Fog and ice up so much that I can't see out well at times. Even the back windows fog up bad! Defroster on high does nothing!
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